Let me address each of Mr. Ranch 13's specific comments in turn.
1. "Their lock rings are a joke, don't expect the die to stay set just because that little rubber O ring says so."
Some like Lee's "O" lock rings, some don't. Some like RCBS' set-screw lock rings, some don't. I'm not wild about either type but using the lock rings as a basis for judging the quality of the dies themselves seems more than a little extreme.
They are the primary way that a die retains it's settings, if they won't maintains settings the dies won't. The Lee die lock rings are simply awfull2. "The decapping spindle is a bear to get set a keep there. Had to weld one of them down."
Well, all it really takes is a couple of wrenches of the right size and the willingness to use them. Welding seems a bit of over kill. Not only is Lee's collet system of holding the decap spindle ok, it is perhaps THE BEST WAY to insure the spindle/expander plug is aligned as well as it can be. And, it was good enough for Hornady to copy as soon as the patent expired.
-And had to change to a "Zip Spindle" design this year because it didn't work well on Hornady dies either3. "The bullet seater stem threads are to loose and you can actually see the thing float up and down when seating bullets. just try to load match quality ammo with that sort of crap going on."
The seater stem's upward movement is limited by the threads of the stem and die body. That's really all it needs, the seater stem will not change position. A conventional stem locking nut would add nothing to the effectivness of the design but it would be very easy for anyone with a working knowledge of nuts and bolts to add one, cost maybe 15 cents?
Maintaining proper distance to lands can be critical for accuracy. Another failure for Lee Dies.4. "The powder thru the die expander on 2 different die sets I have will ruin more cases than it will expand."
I don't care for "powder through" dies of any kind but many do. All I have ever found to be "wrong" with the powder thru/expander die was my failure to adjust it properly.
5. "They haven't figured out how to make a set of seating dies that will apply a proper crimp with out the bullet mashin thing."
Not real sure what "the bullet mashin thing" means. ?? Anyway, I think the problem is using the crimping ring of any die properly. Uniform crimping requires equal length cases. If the cases are inconsistant, the crimp will be inconsistant and the die brand really doesn't matter. But, not all of Lee's seating dies include a crimp ring so perhaps that's what's been a problem. ??
It's almost always a bad idea to seat and crimp in the same step anyway.Now, I've been loading for close to 50 years. I have some 40 sets of dies of all brands but Dillion, plus quite a few others that I've used and sold or given away. I've found NO average difference in the quality of ammo that can be assembled that can retionally be atributed to the die brand.
Well, yes, for rifle ammo, the much more expensive Forsters and Reddings Comp/BR dies do have a slight but definate advantage on average, not every instance at all, but that applies to not only Lee but all the other die brands as well.
Every Lee die comes with bad lock rings.A "worn out press", of any type or brand, is vastly over feared. A little side-to-side slop in a press' ram is meaningless for accuracy and may actually be helpful. A round case will self center itself and enter a round die perfectly aligned UNLESS it is prevented from doing so by a tight but slightly off axis fit. Dies should never be wrench tightened into the press. Proof?
Often recognised as the "premier" tool for accurate reloading, the Forster Co-Ax press has a case holder and die retaining system that's completly free floating. No threads are used to lock anything in place, and it works VERY well!
So, back to the original question, "Is Lee's Challanger/Anniversary kit good for a beginner?" Yeah. In fact it's very good, if not ideal, for ANY loader who does common reloading. That means it's not for the .50BMG nor swaging bullets nor massively reforming cases.
Seems most of those who break the lever toggles get foolish with excessive pressure and/or allow the bolt that holds the toggles together to get loose so they can pry themselves apart. Keep that bolt tight, don't stand on the lever, keep the ram clean and oiled, lube your cases properly so they can be sized easily and the Challanger will work fine for a long time.
Any serious reloader who starts with an alum alloy press, from Lee, RCBS or Hornady, and later gets a steel press will still have plenty of speciality tasks for the old press. Use it as a dedicted decappin, re-capping, neck expanding, etc.. tool. So, it need never be a waste!
I have three Lee presses and two iron presses. Is Lee my first choice as a main press? No.
Simply put, you can buy better stuff for not much more money so why bother with Lee? Even this poster uses better stuff. But I do a lot of reloading, I'm not "average". Sure, I would rather see anyone who plans to be a serious volume reloader get something made of iron or steel. Any of the common presses such as the Lee Classic Cast, Lyman Crusher, Redding Boss, are great, but I know they are not necessary for doing quality work with common cartridges up to say the .416 Rem mag. A good loader can make good ammo with any press
NOT TRUE! NOBODY CAN LOAD GOOD AMMO WITH BAD TOOLS, a poor loader can't make good ammo with any press. ??
Get the Lee kit and have FUN!
Buy better stuff, it ends up being less expensive in the long run because you don't have to buy twice!