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Is the Lee 50th Ann. Reloading Kit a good recommendation for a beginner?
I've kept and eye on Ebay, Craigslist, and various forum Classifieds for better (eg. RCBS, Hornady, etc.) equipment and by the time I piece it all together, I don't think I can beat the Lee Kit price for what all you get. Will it work O.K. or would I be selling myself short by getting it?

Any other recommendations are greatly appreciated.

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It will work just fine. It's what I use and I'm no longer a beginner. I say go for it.

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Some people like the previous poster are happy with Lee equipment, I'm of the opposite opinion. I've had Lee equipment fail on me and I don't care for it at all. They have some very creative designs but a lot of it is poorly manufactured from cheap materials and simply wears out and/or breaks.

If you are just going for light duty equipment that doesn't need to last very long maybe it might work for you. I personally think that it's a much better idea to spend a little more and get stuff that will last for a couple lifetimes like RCBS, Redding or Forster...................................DJ


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It's what I started with(err,maybe the 35th).I come at mechanical things from a different perspective,as a professional,there are the things I fix for a living.And I think Lee stuff are elegant designs.The two things I replaced after a few years were the press,with a Lee Classic Cast and the scale with a used Ohaus 5-0-5(it says RCBS on it).The Lee scale is more sensistive,it's also more of a pain to set up perfectly,the surface it sits on should be dead level.The 5-0-5 weighs up to 500gr,handy for brass.The rest of the stuff,I have no plans to replace.

Yes,Rockchuckers do wear out,my buddy just replaced his with a Redding Mag-7.great press.If you grab the ram at the top of the stroke,and you feel movement,it's time for a new one.

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It's a good place to start, don't bother with their dies , get some with quality from one of the other manufacturers.
You can always change out things like the press etc, as you think you may need to.


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I find it interesting someone is knocking their dies. Lee collet (neck) dies and factory crimp dies have a very strong following (especially the crimp die).

Any reason you are suggesting not to bother with Lee dies?

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Originally Posted by Triggernosis
Any other recommendations are greatly appreciated.

http://forums.accuratereloading.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/2511043/m/5741094201


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Originally Posted by Jason280
I find it interesting someone is knocking their dies. Lee collet (neck) dies and factory crimp dies have a very strong following (especially the crimp die).

Any reason you are suggesting not to bother with Lee dies?


Well mostly from experience with the drizzlin shxts things over 20 someodd years. Never seem to learn, buying a set of Lee dies will cost you double, cuz you're going to have to buy a decent set to replace them.
Their lock rings are a joke, don't expect the die to stay set just because that little rubber O ring says so.
The decapping spindle is a bear to get set a keep there. Had to weld one of them down.
The bullet seater stem threads are to loose and you can actually see the thing float up and down when seating bullets. just try to load match quality ammo with that sort of crap going on.
The powder thru the die expander on 2 different die sets I have will ruin more cases than it will expand.
I have it figured out why they came out with that stupid factory crimp die. They haven't figured out how to make a set of seating dies that will apply a proper crimp with out the bullet mashin thing.
Other than that I guess they're alright. crazy


the most expensive bullet there is isn't worth a plug nickel if it don't go where its supposed to.
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I have had a Challenger press since it was the Challenger 2001. I think the collet die is fantastic. I have no issues with the seater die, but I like the Forster micrometer die for its adjustment. I got my son the Lee kit and he likes it. He did, as mentioned above, pick up an Ohaus 5-0-5 as marketed by RCBS because he was used to my old Ohaus and the Lee scale is a bit different to operate. (It did agree exactly with both 5-0-5s, so I would not be at all worried about its accuracy.)


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The old version of the Challenger press had a couple of zinc parts in the lever chain that would break after a period of heavy use. Replacing them with the corresponding parts from the next larger press cured that problem, and made a system that would load as much ammo as you, your children, and grandchildren are likely to use.

The new version of the Challenger has replaced those zinc parts with steel. I don't think you are going to wear it out. It will load ammo as that is as good as you can get from any press you can find.

All that said, I would buy the Classic Cast press to start with. I have yet to find any single stage press that provides any actual superior performance or durability.

I run Lee dies almost exclusively.

About one in four of the sizing dies I have came with internal burrs. That's not a good thing, but when those problems do happen a few seconds with a Dremel tool will fix them. I just figure that fixing an occaisional burr is worth the difference in price. You may feel differently. The dies do produce first class ammunition.

I don't think you can beat the Lee collet die anywhere, at any price.

The scale... well, I don't like the Lee scale so much. OTH, the Perfect Powder Measure is demonstrably more consistent than the Hornady offering costing much more.


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I agree...Had a set of Lee .30 Mauser dies and kept setting the shoulders back on the cases when trying to crimp the Hornady 86 gr bullet. Got a set of Redding .30 mauser dies and never have had the slightest problem with them...Yes, Lee dies do cost double..

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Anything mechanical can wear out -- heck, even humans wear out, I know I am. wink I bought RCBS equipment back in 1975 when I started reloading. It wasn't inexpensive, but it has lasted since then. Can't think of anything that I have changed out other than a few sets of Lee dies that I was trying to save some money on. RCBS, Lyman, Redding work a lot better for me.

Hard to beat a Rockchucker press . . . . I guess there are better, but mine is a good one, still.


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Let me address each of Mr. Ranch 13's specific comments in turn.

1. "Their lock rings are a joke, don't expect the die to stay set just because that little rubber O ring says so."

Some like Lee's "O" lock rings, some don't. Some like RCBS' set-screw lock rings, some don't. I'm not wild about either type but using the lock rings as a basis for judging the quality of the dies themselves seems more than a little extreme.

2. "The decapping spindle is a bear to get set a keep there. Had to weld one of them down."

Well, all it really takes is a couple of wrenches of the right size and the willingness to use them. Welding seems a bit of over kill. Not only is Lee's collet system of holding the decap spindle ok, it is perhaps THE BEST WAY to insure the spindle/expander plug is aligned as well as it can be. And, it was good enough for Hornady to copy as soon as the patent expired.

3. "The bullet seater stem threads are to loose and you can actually see the thing float up and down when seating bullets. just try to load match quality ammo with that sort of crap going on."

The seater stem's upward movement is limited by the threads of the stem and die body. That's really all it needs, the seater stem will not change position. A conventional stem locking nut would add nothing to the effectivness of the design but it would be very easy for anyone with a working knowledge of nuts and bolts to add one, cost maybe 15 cents?

4. "The powder thru the die expander on 2 different die sets I have will ruin more cases than it will expand."

I don't care for "powder through" dies of any kind but many do. All I have ever found to be "wrong" with the powder thru/expander die was my failure to adjust it properly.

5. "They haven't figured out how to make a set of seating dies that will apply a proper crimp with out the bullet mashin thing."

Not real sure what "the bullet mashin thing" means. ?? Anyway, I think the problem is using the crimping ring of any die properly. Uniform crimping requires equal length cases. If the cases are inconsistant, the crimp will be inconsistant and the die brand really doesn't matter. But, not all of Lee's seating dies include a crimp ring so perhaps that's what's been a problem. ??

Now, I've been loading for close to 50 years. I have some 40 sets of dies of all brands but Dillion, plus quite a few others that I've used and sold or given away. I've found NO average difference in the quality of ammo that can be assembled that can retionally be atributed to the die brand.

Well, yes, for rifle ammo, the much more expensive Forsters and Reddings Comp/BR dies do have a slight but definate advantage on average, not every instance at all, but that applies to not only Lee but all the other die brands as well.

A "worn out press", of any type or brand, is vastly over feared. A little side-to-side slop in a press' ram is meaningless for accuracy and may actually be helpful. A round case will self center itself and enter a round die perfectly aligned UNLESS it is prevented from doing so by a tight but slightly off axis fit. Dies should never be wrench tightened into the press. Proof?

Often recognised as the "premier" tool for accurate reloading, the Forster Co-Ax press has a case holder and die retaining system that's completly free floating. No threads are used to lock anything in place, and it works VERY well!

So, back to the original question, "Is Lee's Challanger/Anniversary kit good for a beginner?" Yeah. In fact it's very good, if not ideal, for ANY loader who does common reloading. That means it's not for the .50BMG nor swaging bullets nor massively reforming cases.

Seems most of those who break the lever toggles get foolish with excessive pressure and/or allow the bolt that holds the toggles together to get loose so they can pry themselves apart. Keep that bolt tight, don't stand on the lever, keep the ram clean and oiled, lube your cases properly so they can be sized easily and the Challanger will work fine for a long time.

Any serious reloader who starts with an alum alloy press, from Lee, RCBS or Hornady, and later gets a steel press will still have plenty of speciality tasks for the old press. Use it as a dedicted decappin, re-capping, neck expanding, etc.. tool. So, it need never be a waste!

I have three Lee presses and two iron presses. Is Lee my first choice as a main press? No. But I do a lot of reloading, I'm not "average". Sure, I would rather see anyone who plans to be a serious volume reloader get something made of iron or steel. Any of the common presses such as the Lee Classic Cast, Lyman Crusher, Redding Boss, are great, but I know they are not necessary for doing quality work with common cartridges up to say the .416 Rem mag. A good loader can make good ammo with any press, a poor loader can't make good ammo with any press. ??

Get the Lee kit and have FUN! wink


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Boom - nice post.


Not a real member - just an ordinary guy who appreciates being able to hang around and say something once in awhile.

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Buy the Anniversary Kit and later on you can add the Classic Cast press. Then use the A press for universal decapping and other variations.

Use collet neck sizer and factory crimp for excellent results. Read everything Richard Lee says in the manual about getting started and figuring loads. You will never need another manual. You may want one.

Read what he says about the powder measure. It comes set up to use automatic. For best manual service it needs one alteration.

I have CZ 550 338-06AI loaded with all Lee tools: It will shoot 1 3/16" @ 300 yds.


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Originally Posted by boomtube
Let me address each of Mr. Ranch 13's specific comments in turn.

1. "Their lock rings are a joke, don't expect the die to stay set just because that little rubber O ring says so."

Some like Lee's "O" lock rings, some don't. Some like RCBS' set-screw lock rings, some don't. I'm not wild about either type but using the lock rings as a basis for judging the quality of the dies themselves seems more than a little extreme. They are the primary way that a die retains it's settings, if they won't maintains settings the dies won't. The Lee die lock rings are simply awfull


2. "The decapping spindle is a bear to get set a keep there. Had to weld one of them down."

Well, all it really takes is a couple of wrenches of the right size and the willingness to use them. Welding seems a bit of over kill. Not only is Lee's collet system of holding the decap spindle ok, it is perhaps THE BEST WAY to insure the spindle/expander plug is aligned as well as it can be. And, it was good enough for Hornady to copy as soon as the patent expired. -And had to change to a "Zip Spindle" design this year because it didn't work well on Hornady dies either

3. "The bullet seater stem threads are to loose and you can actually see the thing float up and down when seating bullets. just try to load match quality ammo with that sort of crap going on."

The seater stem's upward movement is limited by the threads of the stem and die body. That's really all it needs, the seater stem will not change position. A conventional stem locking nut would add nothing to the effectivness of the design but it would be very easy for anyone with a working knowledge of nuts and bolts to add one, cost maybe 15 cents? Maintaining proper distance to lands can be critical for accuracy. Another failure for Lee Dies.

4. "The powder thru the die expander on 2 different die sets I have will ruin more cases than it will expand."

I don't care for "powder through" dies of any kind but many do. All I have ever found to be "wrong" with the powder thru/expander die was my failure to adjust it properly.

5. "They haven't figured out how to make a set of seating dies that will apply a proper crimp with out the bullet mashin thing."

Not real sure what "the bullet mashin thing" means. ?? Anyway, I think the problem is using the crimping ring of any die properly. Uniform crimping requires equal length cases. If the cases are inconsistant, the crimp will be inconsistant and the die brand really doesn't matter. But, not all of Lee's seating dies include a crimp ring so perhaps that's what's been a problem. ?? It's almost always a bad idea to seat and crimp in the same step anyway.

Now, I've been loading for close to 50 years. I have some 40 sets of dies of all brands but Dillion, plus quite a few others that I've used and sold or given away. I've found NO average difference in the quality of ammo that can be assembled that can retionally be atributed to the die brand.

Well, yes, for rifle ammo, the much more expensive Forsters and Reddings Comp/BR dies do have a slight but definate advantage on average, not every instance at all, but that applies to not only Lee but all the other die brands as well. Every Lee die comes with bad lock rings.

A "worn out press", of any type or brand, is vastly over feared. A little side-to-side slop in a press' ram is meaningless for accuracy and may actually be helpful. A round case will self center itself and enter a round die perfectly aligned UNLESS it is prevented from doing so by a tight but slightly off axis fit. Dies should never be wrench tightened into the press. Proof?

Often recognised as the "premier" tool for accurate reloading, the Forster Co-Ax press has a case holder and die retaining system that's completly free floating. No threads are used to lock anything in place, and it works VERY well!

So, back to the original question, "Is Lee's Challanger/Anniversary kit good for a beginner?" Yeah. In fact it's very good, if not ideal, for ANY loader who does common reloading. That means it's not for the .50BMG nor swaging bullets nor massively reforming cases.

Seems most of those who break the lever toggles get foolish with excessive pressure and/or allow the bolt that holds the toggles together to get loose so they can pry themselves apart. Keep that bolt tight, don't stand on the lever, keep the ram clean and oiled, lube your cases properly so they can be sized easily and the Challanger will work fine for a long time.

Any serious reloader who starts with an alum alloy press, from Lee, RCBS or Hornady, and later gets a steel press will still have plenty of speciality tasks for the old press. Use it as a dedicted decappin, re-capping, neck expanding, etc.. tool. So, it need never be a waste!

I have three Lee presses and two iron presses. Is Lee my first choice as a main press? No. Simply put, you can buy better stuff for not much more money so why bother with Lee? Even this poster uses better stuff. But I do a lot of reloading, I'm not "average". Sure, I would rather see anyone who plans to be a serious volume reloader get something made of iron or steel. Any of the common presses such as the Lee Classic Cast, Lyman Crusher, Redding Boss, are great, but I know they are not necessary for doing quality work with common cartridges up to say the .416 Rem mag. A good loader can make good ammo with any press NOT TRUE! NOBODY CAN LOAD GOOD AMMO WITH BAD TOOLS, a poor loader can't make good ammo with any press. ??

Get the Lee kit and have FUN! wink Buy better stuff, it ends up being less expensive in the long run because you don't have to buy twice!


I won't tell you that you can't load good Ammo with the better end of Lee tools. Just like I wouldn't tell you that you couldn't drive to work in a Yugo. But if you can easily afford the nicer stuff that lasts longer and is easier to use why not go with RCBS, Redding or Forster?...........................DJ


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Lee seater rifle dies don't crimp.

Lee collets center better than the threaded stems.How can you make a two truly accurate threads at that price point?

Lee collets must be totally clean of oil to hold.Think of a Morse taper.

Those pot metal links didn't like the Factory Crimp dies.


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Actually, Lee has two types of seater dies. The standard seaters will crimp. The "dead length" seater die that comes with the Collet die set and Deluxe set will not.

That being said, Lee dies work just fine, but I prefer Hornady. I do however own a Lee Collet die for every rifle caliber I load for and its the only neck die I'll use.

I started on the Anniversary set and it served me well for 5-6 years until I decided to upgrade to RCBS/Hornady. I did break one set of links, but as I understand it, they've fixed that problem. Also, as some of the other posters have already said, you'll want to pick up a different scale.

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Quote
the drizzlin shxts things over 20 someodd years


???

Quote
The decapping spindle is a bear to get set a keep there. Had to weld one of them down


I haven't had a problem with mine. I use a .223 full length sizing die to resize all my military 5.56 brass, and have sized close to 1.5k pieces without incident.

I own Lyman, RCBS, Hornady, Lee, and Redding dies, and the Lee's have worked just as well for me as any of the others.

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Originally Posted by Triggernosis
I don't think I can beat the Lee Kit price for what all you get. Will it work O.K. or would I be selling myself short by getting it?

Take a first-hand look at what you're considering spending your money on. You will see definite differences. For some the equipment is important, for others it's the money spent. What's important to you? What results are you looking for?

BTW, I don't agree with the acceptability of a loose ram. The ram is the driving force, and if it's misaligned the cartridge will be forced out of alignment. Keep your press clean and lubed to promote longevity.


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