Seems a little slow in this corner of the forum lately...

So now that fall is setting in and cooler temps are upon us, who is gearing up to do some serious casting?

I am about to crank the heat up and spend a few days with molds in-hand. Hope to end up with a pile of 44-250K's, 45-200SWC's. Hope to pick a new NOE mold up and add some .38 wadcutters to that mix also. Gotta refill the ammo cans!

So what is on the agenda for everyone else?

I choked out a couple hundred 255 gr KT's for the RBH Colt, and some 280gr SAA's for the Colt SxS.

A bunch of RB's for my 54.

Going to do some HP 357's for my wife's 38 special when I get some time.

I picked up another muffin tin yesterday to put my alloy in when I get the chance to blend some more 1:20.

I have two molds for my Sharps that are crying to be used. I've just been really, really busy with work and home stuff and haven't had the time to break out the burner and dutch oven to assemble some more casting alloy.

I DO need to find a decent large ladle for pouring those muffin tin cups.

Ed

I haven't touched any lead in well over a month now, but recovery from surgery is going very well and I hope to fire up my lead furnace next week. (It's set up at work, where I haven't been yet. I shoulda brought it back home beforehand!)

I mainly need to cast up some 190gr. FN hunting bullets (10-12bhn), get them sized/lubed/checked, blessed with Holy Water, and kissed by a vestal virgin. (What, doesn't everybody do that with their hunting bullets??? )

I did load up a pile of .32 S&W Longs with a Lyman semi-wadcutter (don't ask me the number), 95 grain. Around 300 or so. Empty pop cans beware!

Bought this Lee 45 cal greaser from a local just to mess with for $15.
At 30:1 it weighs about 485grs.Going to plant it on the 45/110 just for grins and do water jug penetration tests eventually.

The Old Dead Guys would roll in their graves seeing this combo!

I need to cast up a big batch of these HP's for my 38 and 357 loads. With cold weather and no daylight coming soon I'll have time to get back to casting and reloading project. The 357 loads get the gas check the 38's I just leave it off as it's not need for the velocity and pressure of those loads.

That's a hoss right there! Has my shoulder hurting just thinking about it.

That looks sharp. I am making payments on another .357 right now. Anxious to get that in hand just so I can buy another mold. Thinking of doing NOE's version of the WFN.

Who's mold is that one?

Actually these are on the light side for the big guns and bullet weight.You really have a tiger by the tail when you shoot a 530gr PP over the same 100 gr 2F charge! Better not have any loose fillings!

45s and 38s from Lee truncated cone molds, some 45 23o gr round nose from a Lyman mold. Want to find a good used 35 mold in the 200 to 250 ge range to play with.

Ii am also looking real hard and saving my pennies for a Harbor Freight powder casting setup. I really like what I have been reading about powder coating cast bullets.

http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/produc...51&osCsid=e7jld8rv3hd3h739lug6nigh41

He currently doesn't have any of these in stock for sale to the public. I've had mine for a couple years now,it's basically a HP version copy of this Lyman mold. Look around on the site you may find another mold you like just as well.

http://www.lymanproducts.com/lyman/bullet-casting/mould-details.php?entryID=10

I haven't done any casting recently but just loaded up the last of my 357 170 Keith's so that will be my next session. Spent some time yesterday loading some blackpowder for a Shiloh Sharps and a Ballard (a couple of Lyman designs and a custom Brooks)...

Ok, now you've done it! I haven't done any casting all summer, but after reading this thread (and cooler weather) I am about to fire up the pot. I am running low on #429421's for my 44 mag shooting. I've also got to do a little scrounging for some more wheelweights; my stash is getting low.......

I cast up a pile of my RCBS 45-201 SWC's last Wednesday night. Until now I have been running Lee's version of the H&G 68. I have been having issues getting perfectly reliable feeding with the Lee in my new Ruger 1911. I gave the the RCBS a run over the weekend and I was tickled. I have a feeling this bullet and the new 1911 will be like peas and carrots. Run about 100 through it and no issues. Will load up a few more and see how she does.

Next on the agenda is to restock my 44-250K's. My Redhawk loves this bullet with a case full of IMR 4227.

I'm running out of time before firearms deer season starts. I really want to get some more Lee 310 gr. WFNGC's cast. I'm still aching to put one of those through a whitetail.

Also have several hundred pounds of WW's that need to be smelted down. There's plenty of busy work for winter time if I can get myself around to doing it.

I just traded a buddy all the H&G 78's I'd cast up, so I need to put in another session with that mold.

Need to make some more .357" hp's and need to try and figure out the right temp to get consistently good hp's from my .475" mold.

I too, will be warming up the furnace this week.

I am down to six.. yes, SIX rounds of 32-20 for my John Browning 53. I use the RCBS 32-90-CM, so I will be churning out a couple hundred of those. It has fast become my go-to woods loafing gun, over my [much heavier] octagonal barreled 1892 Winchester 25-20 who is down right now, waiting on a new Marbles tang sight. I have two loads for the '53.. one using TrailBoss for the quiet dispatch of squirrels. The other uses 4227, the IMR variety for a higher velocity load for bigger stuff. They shoot virtually on top of one another at 25 yards. The higher velocity stuff works well out to 100 yards.. I try to keep the TrailBoss loads inside of 25-30. She's a light, handy and accurate little lady. She's got the looks too.

My Buff'Classic will be in the woods this year for doe season, so I may need to knock out a few Lyman 457193's as I am down to my last few rounds.

As you can tell by my dismal ammunition cache, I work far to much and play far to little.

My '53 has only fired on load. 3.8 Tight group (rotor #2 RCBS Lil'Dandy) over 115 gr laser cast. Just excellent 1050 fps clover leafs (wife calls them Mickey Mouse) groups. Way better than an open sighted gun should shoot.
Gathering up the courage to order a .32 sledge hammer 140 gr button nose flat point from Accurate for it... Mean while I am still casting the 4 pc Orvis 6 weight but it is blowing 30 knots out so may have to fire up the 9 weight.

Lyman 255438



My next trick might be a .17 caliber ball-et for the zimmer.

I've been casting and testing 35 Remington loads for deer season, with the Saeco 352 245gr (full power) and a custom 255gr hollow point (subsonic, suppressed).

Saeco 352 on the left, 255gr HP on the right

Scott, before spending money on a powder coating gun, just buy some powder (NOT the Hobo Freight junk) and dry tumble the bullets. All you need is a plastic container from butter/yogurt/sour cream, etc, just dump the bullets and some powder in, and shake well. I'd be happy to share more info if you want.

I fired up the pot last night and attempted to cast some bullets, but kept getting poor fillout, possibly due to low alloy temps. I hope to get another chance to try playing with temps tonight. I'm going to have to break down and get a casting thermometer so I can know what I'm dealing with rather than chasing possibilities when I have casting problems.

I have to develop 158SWC for .357. Once I have the right load, I will turn 10 pounds or so to boolits to have a stash for my weekly trips to range.

On top of that I keep casting 200 RNs for SBH in 44, great plinking bullet. Will try so hunting with it in rifle season.

My son needs to practice with his 30-30 - already got bullets casted for that.

Right now, its Auto Rims for a 25-2 and a Smith 1917:



But I've got lots of stuff loaded with lead....

Very cool. I have always wanted one of those 1917's. Just don't want to pay Gunbroker pices. One of these days....

What I read about dry tumbling had mixed reviews with a lot of problems. I would love to keep it simple. If you don't mind would you share your secrets?

Knocked out a couple hundred of these fat bad boys-custom Postell mould 530 gr for my 45-70.

Dayum Kitch, you mad at something?

Dan

I lost my mind awhile back. Everything from .25 to .45 and a few in between.

Kitch, I'm pretty sure I see a flaw in that bullet. You should mail that mold to me for further "beta" testing before you cast a bad bullet and miss your target.

Ed

(Actually, VERY good looking bullet there! Nice work! )

Flaw? Yep, that was a reject. You should see the good ones! that mould is from Brooks' custom moulds, not cheap but a great mould.

You need to fill in those grooves with putty, wrap it in paper and head out to Gillette for the Wasserberger Mile.

What a coincidence ............

I have a Winchester 1892 with a model 53 barrel, rebored to .357.

It seems to go out more often than the .224 CF's lately.

I cast some Ideal 358477 and 358439 today for this hybrid.

Favorite all purpose load is the '477 powered by 4.5 grains of HP-38 for 1070 FPS.

The '439 is loaded with 11 grains of old 2400 for a slightly more powerful load. Both loads are assembled in .357 cases.

Not as cool as a 53 but fills a similar niche!

Let's see - a Postell from a custom Brooks mold? I like your style! I had Mr. Brooks cut a mold with the older original Postell nose shape (more rounded) using the same driving band/lube groove design from his 540 gr Creedmore. It comes out at 543 gr with 30:1...



And I just used one to let the air out of this guy a couple of weeks ago...

Impressive. Nice Ballard, too.

Next thaw: 40 (S&W) cal TC's and 45 (ACP) SWC's. Completely out.

I've got a 22 cal mould that the fedex man is bringing tomorrow. It is one of the Lee bator 6-cavs that Midsouth carries. Excited to run some plain-base 55's out to 1800 or so, and some gc at 2200 or as warm as they will shoot in my Bee. Kicks hell out of rimfire! Hope it works out. Before this, 30 cal has been the smallest diameter I cast, and those were fairly simple once the moulds are hot. Likely the same with these 22 cals. Nothing runs as smoothly as a 300 gr 44 cal. I can almost take a nap while casting those.

I love my .22 Bator mould and the bullets it makes. I found it to be the most accurate design in my 5.6x35R ("Euro Hornet"), but it does have a rapid twist- 1-9". It is the t*ts in my 30's vintage .22 Maximum Lovell Krag single shot too (1-14" twist).

Gnoahhh, if you favor the design, then I made a good call! I've not cast any yet, but upon looking at the mould, the design is just what I am after. I'd read about some coming from Lee with funky bases. Some too narrow, some too short for GC seating. The 6-cav I got looks perfect. Excited to get these shooting!

They'll be run through 2 14 inch contenders from BullBerry: one in 218 Bee, the other in 221 Fireball. As well, a Remington 700 in 22 K-Hornet. And since Ruger is now making LH Americans, I'm planning to pick one up in 223, and will load it with these Bators, as well as heavier jacketed.

Mostly I cast bullets for my 45 Colt Vaquero and Ranch Hand -- 200 grain semi wadcutter and 255 grain RNFP. I like the heavier ones better. I also cast quite a few 405 grain FP for my 45-70s. The Buffalo Classic likes them with 25 grains of AA5744. I use that one for sniping empty 12 guage hulls at 50 yards.

I also have a couple different moulds for my 50 cal Flinter and a plethora of .358 and .356 pistol bullets. I cast everything except the muzzle loader bullets from wheel weights. The 405 slugs, I water quench.

Also have a mould for a 405 Winchester - 300 grain round nose. Loads of fun

I do my casting oustide in warm weather, but winter is reloading time. Just loaded all my 375 H&H brass with 255 grain cast. Now on to 9mm. Just sized and lubed a coffee can full of projectiles. Now slowly loading them up in my spare time.

I like it cold when I cast. Here's my 50 caliber 440 grn WFN. Picture was taken right after dumping them out of the bucket and sizing.

Next day, I made up some of my 45 ACP bullets.

5.8# of Lyman 405 gr .45 cal greasers and 250 Lyman 225438 since the last post.

I feel strongly both ways.

Lyman 457193 for my Shiloh Sharps .45 2 1/10.

[img:center][/img]

Santa brought me a new mold from NOE. A 360-180 WFN. She's a beaut but unfortunately will be taking a trip back. She casts a little too large (right at .363") and sizing down practically elimitates the crimp groove.

Lewis, I see you're a fan of those big H&G molds! I have a six cavity in a 38 SWC that I've been thinking about selling, if you're interested.

I have one of those hunks or iron.

First decent day in long time so decided to get with it until the next Arctic blast.



L-R...My custom 45 cal 530 gr paper patch..338-240 gr GC..50 cal 360 gr Minie and 176 gr RB for my front stuffer.

Received my newest NOE mold #340-224gr FN GS yesterday..cant wait to run some for my 338/06 AI. The .338 dia is inherently accurate in jacketed attire but no different with a good cast offering.

Workaday Lyman 457483/3F/boom

Frank1

How do you like the LBT hardness tester, I have been looking at those lately. How do it do testing ingots compared to boolits? Thanks for any info.

Not casting but shot some 200 grain cast flat noses out of the 35 Whelen today,very happy at 2100 fps

Sometimes what you see isn't exactly what you get. After casting about 200 .338 bullets I started lube sizing and thought I had a mechanical problem with the equipment as the top two grooves wouldn't hold lube and made a mess. After a good cleaning the existing problem still manifested itself with absolute regularity.

Having not seen the forest for the trees at first out came the dial mic which I should have used first only to discover this new bullet has a taper from top to bottom of .330 to .340.

Called NOE the specs were looked up and sure enough my discovery was accurate it definitely was of taper design and not a mold imperfection. Apparently the designer used this config for a single shot target rifle with the bullet seated way out promoting superb accuracy.

Haven't loaded any yet but still think it carries enough lube to prevent leading or I can fill in the remainng grooves with the sticky finger method ..guess we'll see..

I got a confirmation email from brownells yesterday. It's my understanding that casting little tiny bullets can be a PITA, and usually best left to the experts. (And I ain't one.) I'll probably have some questions next week. Stay tuned.

Order Date: 1/18/2015

Stock Number / Description Retail Price Your Price Quantity Total
749-012-466MB (In Stock)
DC 55GR .22 Cal Rifle Mould FN
Write a Review $71.99 $71.99 1 $71.99
749-012-039MB (In Stock)
Hornady Gas Checks 22 cal 1000/Box
Write a Review $26.49 $26.49 1 $26.49
749-012-506MB (In Stock)
Sizing Die .225 Dia
Write a Review $26.49 $26.49 1 $26.49
749-012-514MB (In Stock)
Top Punch 415
Write a Review $10.49 $10.49 1 $10.49
077-100-000MB (In Stock)
Brownells Catalog
Write a Review $5.00 $5.00 1 $5.00
Product Total $140.46
Tax (Iowa Only) $0.00
Shipping - Economy Shipping $7.95
NRA Add-A-Buck $1.00
Total $149.41

Not to fear my above example is certainly not the norm you'll be just fine once you get some OJT under the belt..

Here they are. My first time casting anything smaller than a 38. First time with gas checks as well. I didn't cull by weight, just picked out the wrinkly ones, and the ones with rounded bases. Loaded some up with red dot, and I'm not impressed so far. Ran out of time and didn't try any other powders. Any powder recommendations would be appreciated. (I have most powders). Also do I need the lyman M die? Tips & tricks? Browning BLR 223 1 / 12 twist it shoots 50 v-maxes under 1". These are shooting over 2" groups right now.

Weight? Mold number? Alloy? Powder charge? Velocity? Bullet diameter? Thoroughly (and I mean thoroughly) cleaned barrel before firing lead through it, to eliminate at least one cause? Lots of variables that will effect your results.

M die? Good idea, but I have gotten good results plenty of times over the years just by putting a heavy chamfer in the case mouth. I would sort by weighing too, if sub-MOA accuracy is the goal.

One thing I would stop doing is crimping the bullets, if that's what I see in the pics. Some like to crimp, I don't.

How well does that bullet fit the throat in your rifle? Mastering all the variables I asked about initially won't give gilt edged accuracy if they are a lousy fit in the rifle's throat.

Some of the bullets in the one pic look like the driving bands aren't filled out, and some show lopsided sizing (lube grooves squeezed semi-shut in places). Could be a trick of the light, I suppose. But if such anomalies exist in a .22 bullet, they cause more erratic performance than similar defects do in a big bullet- based on a percentage of gross bullet weight variation/unbalance.

Still in all, 2"@100Yds. ain't all that bad. Getting jacketed bullet "benchrest" accuracy with cast .22 stuff requires strict attention to the minutiae.

54 Lubed with gas check. Lyman #224415. Hornady gas check. Wheel weight with about 1% tin added. Sized at .225. I went from 6.5 - 9.0 grs in .5 gr increments. 8.0 giving the best groups. Crony is not working again. Yes I used a lee factory crimp die. I'll try without that. I did chamfer heavily. I have no idea how to fit a bullet to the throat. Yes the lube grooves are squeezed in, but the driving bands are sharp. I didn't clean the barrel at all, is that important?

54 Lubed with gas check. Lyman #224415. Hornady gas check. Wheel weight with about 1% tin added. Sized at .225. I went from 6.5 - 9.0 grs in .5 gr increments. 8.0 giving the best groups. Crony is not working again. Yes I used a lee factory crimp die. I'll try without that. I did chamfer heavily. I have no idea how to fit a bullet to the throat. Yes the lube grooves are squeezed in, but the driving bands are sharp. I didn't clean the barrel at all, is that important?

All of the above for sure.I did notice some minor nose deformity unless that's just my monitor. The proper matching top punch would help as well..But considering all the variables 2" is not bad.

I have the right top punch, according to lyman.

I think I can do better than 2.25" groups@100. Am I asking too much?

I have several recommended top punches that still tend to ding up the bullets so a little trick I use is pinch off a small piece of paper towel fold it a few times,then wet it and push it up in the top punch.After a few bullets it will conform to any deviation and won't leave ring marks.Maybe a tad anal but I like clean looks as well.

Nothing wrong with a 2" group for hunting but yes you could probably tighten groups experimenting with different powders,alloy,fillers and seating depth..I agree with Gnoahhh as well, crimping isn't always necessary.

Good job overall for your first go round..

Determine throat diameter with a chamber cast- either with Cerrosafe (follow directions religiously), or via a pound cast with a soft lead slug. Size the bullet to .0005" under throat diameter regardless of what the groove diameter is. Inside diameter of sized cartridge case sized accordingly so as not to alter bullet diameter when seating.

A trick I use to mate top punches to bullet noses is to put a dab of thickened epoxy in the punch and drop it onto the bullet while partially sticking out of the sizing die. (Don't forget the release agent on the nose of the bullet!) Wipe off any squeeze out and let sit until epoxy hardens. Presto, a custom top punch. I turn my own top punches on my lathe, and since I don't want to be so anal as to machine a perfect cavity to match a particular bullet nose, I simply hog them out oversize and then do the epoxy trick.

Good idea. I'll be trying this.

Time to replenish some of the revolver fodder - last night was the 358/170 Keith and tonight was the 429/250 Keith.

358429:


429421:


That'll keep me going for a little bit...

Two of my favorites.

I cast in my garage with the door up and a fan running so I'm trying to make it until warmer weather.

I've been playing with a new bullet for my 40-65. It's a 425gr Steve Brooks mold.

Cast a bunch of 90swc .314" for my 32 H&R yesterday.
Loaded them over 5.0gr AA5 and tried them out today.



They shoot good, all touching at 10yd if I do my part, and show no signs of leading. Interestingly enough I shot them into wet catalogs and they penetrated 6.5" in a straight line and could be reloaded. I think they should work fine for rabbits and fox or coyotes.

Kid, is that flame cutting on the base of the recovered bullet, or just impact damage? Hard to tell in the pic.

If it's flame cutting, you could beagle that mold to bump the diameter up a thou or two, and see if that cures it.

They are slightly bevel based and drop from the mold at .315. Inspection upon recovery showed no sign of cutting with minor deformation from impact. My pistol slugs .314 and the throats are a uniform .3145. Sure is fun to shoot.

Kid,I cast the same 90 gr. SWC bullet as well but I shoot it in all my rifles. Sized to .314" for 7.62 x 39 and 54r.sized to .311" for 30-30 an 300 Sav. but it will work just as well in any 30 Cal.rifles.

I cast the bullets from pure lead usually but anything slightly harder alloy with 1/4 to 1/3 WW to pure will work fine as well. Using 3.0 grs. Max. of Bullseye in the X39 and 3.0 to 3.5 grs. Bullseye for all other calibers MV runs between 850 to 1100 fps. with the listed charge weights.

You should be able to hold 2" or less groups at 50 yds. fairly easy.

Fodder for the .45-70 and the .30 Something.

I tried the Lee 90 swc for the first time this morning,out of my single six. Four grains of Unique was the first load I tested. I about fell over when I looked at the target - two touching, one three quarters away. I went back to the bench and shot the same load again. Same thing, honest one inch group. I tried up to 4.5 grains but the Lee seemed to like 4 grains best. Great plinking load right out the gate.

Ran a few heavies for the '86 Win 45/90 lever gun. Pushing its envelope a tad with this Lyman 457121 PH at 480 grs but it does shoot well for a 20 twist although having to crimp over the last band for OAL.Lots of firepower on demand with a full mag..

After way too long away from the melting pot, I finally got around to casting some on the 4th of July.

About 280 from an LBT WFN .512" that will go about 430 grs. for the .500 Linebaugh. A few over 500 from a Lyman 257420CW .257" that will weight out about 75 grs. when sized, GC'd, and lubed for the .25-20 Win. And a little over 150 from an LBT LFN .413" that will go about 385 grs for the .405 Win.

Major props on the wooden bullet boxes. You are upclassing "classy" with that!

Nice boxes.

Indeed. I just pile my unlubed bullets in shortened Quaker Oats oatmeal tubes. (Cut them to the desired height, reinstall plastic lid. Stack atop one another.)

Thanks.

I use a variety of containers for bullets. I always water drop and like the wooden boxes since they absorb the water. I suppose I could dump them on a towel just as easily to dry them off. Mainly, I just like wooden boxes.

It's pretty evident I use most anything for bullets by this photo. Plastic, cardboard, or whatever is handy. I like the bread pans since I can get them for $1 at Dollar Tree and they last forever.

I mainly use the oatmeal box or coffee cans for loaded ammo. I always get a kick out of seeing the faces of those who individually wrap each cartridge with individual holders for each cartridge and meticulously and painstakingly handle each round like a new born infant when I set my can of ammo down. Especially if I out shoot them.

I water quench them in my mouth, and spit them into the box where they unerringly land straight up in orderly rows.

That's awesome. I could never get them to land in orderly rows.

"You just put your lips together and blow. You do know how to blow don't you?"

Ah, Lauren Bacall...

Apparently not. Must take lots of practice and a long time to learn.

I don't cast for a lot of calibers; all handguns though. I did turn out a few hundred 44 and 45 bullets yesterday:

Lyman #452424




Lyman #429421

you guys do some pretty good work, and have been doing it for a while. Love the definition on those bullets and the quality of the melt. I am going to have to shoot 44 more i think. I have bullets i cast probably 20 years ago in peanut cans. Until i started fooling with this lee 310grain pill, about the only thing i ever cast was that 429421 keith bullet.

32-115-RNFP by Magma.

Finally cooled down to get after some long overdo casting..Mixed a new batch of 30:1 and ran a pile of Lyman 2640193-405gr FN for the '86 Win 45/90 which actually cast heavy at 420grs and are crimped over a health charge of 2F. I can feel the crescent butt plate already!

Found a bargain on a Lyman 457643 mold new in box at an estate sale recently so had to give it a go:



Tonight, I broke in a new Lee 400 gr/.476 mold for a 5 shot Bisley 480 Ruger that should arrive tomorrow:

That Lee 400 gr .475" is a good one in the 480, well every 390-410 gr mold has been a good one in my 480. 21.0 gr H-110 lit off with a CCI 350 has been my go to 400 gr cast load.

I usually cast WW at 700 deg or a tad more and tried to ladle pour these. I had a hard time with the mold getting too hot without slowing way down. If I cooled the melt below 700, I had trouble with fill-out. This mold seems to cast better bottom pouring - got better consistency than the ladle which is a first. I suppose the 800 gr volume of lead vs. the relatively thin aluminum blocks might be a factor. WW plus a little tin drop at 390 gr and .477-.478 dia.

Wish I could find some H110 - I'll probably start with 4227...

You and me both on the H-110, though powder valley did have some recently. Trouble is I won't order until unless it's a full 50# order for the haz mat and shipping and they don't have the mix of powders I need in stock at the same time.

As far as the lee getting hot, it sure does. I found it best to cast it in tandem with another mold so that I had time for the mold to cool down.

If you have 2400, as I recall 19.0 gr with a CCI 300 was quite accurate and was clocking 1100 fps.

I do have some 2400 and 1100 fps sounds perfect. I'll try that - thanks.

Well I finally got a chance to try a couple of my new Mihec molds. Funny thing is I waited over a year to get them, and then was moving around the time they arrived so nearly another year before using them. The 360640L is a ~130 gr hp mold for 38's and 357's. I cranked out 500 with the deep pin, tried 3.5 and 4.0 gr of 700X in 38 sp cases and then loaded up the remaining over 3.8 gr of 700X. Accuracy from both a Taurus 85 and 357 blackhawk was good.

The other new Mihec is a 452640 ~270 gr hp. I haven't had a chance to load any but they should work well out my wife's 45 bisely convertable.

I also just finished another batch of Lee 200 gr 45 swc's for plining with the 45's. Six cavity molds cast fast and tumble lubing sure saves time!

Been reading Sharpsguy's and Evin Twin's praise of the Lyman 457121ph performance on game so looked it up and found it on clearance at Midway. It just came in so rolled a few with 30:1 - very nice casting mold - good fillout and and drops easy from the mold right at 476 gr...

That's dead on mine drops a consistent 478. Presently Loading it in my '86 Win 45/90 along with the #2640193 at 420 grs. Accuracy so far favors the latter especially in the lever gun but either is more than acceptable for knocking game out of their sneakers.

How do make them so pretty?

Adding 2% tin and dialing the temp in makes for nice shiny bullets.

Got a new mold and had a chance to try it out.



Not sure if this will be the ticket to make a 32 out of a 38 but Lee's new 356-95 rf sure makes a pile of bullets out of the six shooter mold and quite a few per pound. It's designated as a 9mm mold (.356") but casts .358" which is perfect for cast, tumble lube, load and shoot.



The little ogival wadcutter ought to be just dandy on small game and as a 22 rf replacement.

You boys are throwing some big chunks of W-W around...

I need to place another order with NOE, but until then, I am playing with the following:

.286" 145 Grain RNGC
.309" 180 Grain RNGC
.318" 180 Grain FPGC
.359" 200 Grain RNGC
.367" 100 grain RNPB
.368" 280 Grain RNGC
.378" 278 Grain FPGC
.413" 235 Grain FPGC
.430" 305 Grain FPGC

You've got plenty to play with there for sure.

Well the little 35 bullet didn't work out in the 38, but I'll be powder coating them and trying them in the 9. Also got a lee 356-120 and 451-230 that will be powder coated for the 9 and the 45.

Cast up about 100-150 each of RCBS 45-201 and 44-250K with the sole purpose of trying out powder coating.

These were my first attempt at shake and bake with no BBs, 45's:




Went and picked up some airsoft BB's to see if i got a different result. Second try with the BB's. I feel these got much better and even coverage than the first attempt. Could have been the humidity, or my lack of experience with the technique...but gonna shoot'em anyway

44's:




Looking forward to trying this out much more.

I recommend 2 thin coats of powder, instead of trying for complete coverage with one coat.

For blasting ammo where accuracy isn't as critical, complete covereage isn't absolutely necessary, and one thin coat with bare spots is adequate, with good powder.

I gotta ask, what will two coats of powder get me that one coat won't? Besides 100% certain coverage? Any potential accuracy gains or further insurance of reduced fouling?

two thin coats will have better coverage than one thick coat, as well as more consistent thickness. A single thick coat can vary in thickness more from one side of the bullet to the other.

Also if you don't like the way that powder coats without BBs, try another powder. Not sure why, but I haven't been happy with any black colored powder.

1-30 Tin/lead....

Cast some bullets today for the first time in a couple years.

In December I bought a used TC .45 caliber Seneca muzzleloader. I couldn't find conicals so I bought a Lyman mold for the TC maxi ball, supposed to be .454 diameter, 240 grains.

I also cast some round balls. I have an ancient side lock. Finding the the right diameter has been a problem. Today I cast some .390" balls from a Lee mold and some round balls from the original mold that came with the gun. I thought they'd be .385 but they came out .390 as well. This makes the gun a .40 which will barely make it legal for deer in my state. Hmmm...

The final thing I cast were some bullets out of an old Winchester mold I've had a long time. I thought they were 180 grain .38-40 bullets since the previous owner had been a big .38-40 fan but they mike .430 so probably .44-40, something I don't have. Guess I could pour a .44 mag case full of FFg and light 'em off.

Tom

A little relief in the heat and humidity had me itching to warm up the casting pot.

Middle of last week I melted down a good batch of wheel weights a family member had given me. And with a cool morning in the low 60s I decided to warm a few molds up and replenish some bullets over the weekend.

L to R: NOE 360-180-WFN (with deep hollow points), NOE 311-180-FN (311041 copy), RCBS 45-201-SWC, RCBS 44-250-K. All lubed with LBT soft.



Not as pretty as some of you guys, and my cell phone pics aren't great, but they don't shoot too bad.

What is everyone else up to now that fall has arrived?

cast some hollow point 158 grain for 38/357 and then pressed a bb into hole to make a home made hydra shock - really makes them expand on contac and some 45 acp that way too

Idiot post #1.

Been recently working up loads for this new big greaser to launch via the 45-110. Mould is from Accurate #46-540X. So far accuracy is very good, sized .458 or .459 seems to make no difference over 90 grs of 2F..Alloy is 30:1.. Lube is SPG..Recoil is a tad obnoxious!

just got a new 4 cavity 457125 lyman and cast some with crap i had in the pot . casts at 513g so is close to the number 2 alloy. cast right at .460 pc puts them at .462. going to shoot 5 tomorrow at 2.85 aol over 44g of RL7 cci primers and rp brass. will fit only Ruger !'s ,3's and mausers

should have said 45-70.
just shot them and this is the result
1785 fps
shot at a 6 inch plate gong at 150 yards
first shot blew it off the stand.
second shot blew it off the stand.
third shot blew it off the stand.
too cold to walk out there again.
ready for T REX with this one.
that was starting load from Lyman Cast manual and it is as high as i am going. recoil out of the 9.5 lb mauser was ok but don't want more.
will shoot for accuracy closer and later. i hear a cup of coffee calling me.

Good show. That oughta knock anything you draw a bead on ass over tincups!

really impressed with the accuracy and energy. calc's out to 3629f/lbf at muzzle .knocked the crap out of my steel and sheared off a sched 8 bolt holding it together at 150yds.

Be careful, it might over-penetrate...

Ed

two T Rexes for the price of one!

I am very new to this. I have my burner built, my ingot molds built, 260# of pure lead cleaned, with @30 ingots fluxed and poured, but i have not yet found the mold for the .50cal conicals for my muzzleloader.
It would be nice to find one of those estate sales or attic finds.

kellory, if you want a rb mold pm me as i have several and would let you have one cheap.

I take it rb is round ball? With a 1:28 twist, manufacturer states round ball will not stabilize enough. Needs to be a conical. But thank you for the offer.

what rifle do you have? 1-28 twist, i want one!

CVA Steghorn .50cal.

Here are the specs for it.

Rifle Specifications:
- .50 Caliber
- 24" barrel length
- 42" overall length
- 1:28" rifling twist
- Blued finish
- Black synthetic stock
- 7.3 lbs. total weight
- Adjustable light gathering Solar Sights
- Removable stainless steel breech plug
- 209 Ignition
- Bolt action, pull back cocking mechanism
- Ventilated Recoil Pad
Black/Blue (.50 Cal)

thank you. i have always been a traditionalist with wood, flint or caplock or matchlock.
just might try out one of these though.

accuracy of those .460 513g powder coated in 45/70 siamese mauser
100 yards open sights
1768 fps.
44g RL7
rp cases
cci primers
bottom red dot point of aim
temp 25 f
recoil not bad in 9.5lb gun
plowed a crater in the frozen ground behind the target

Been casting 705 gr paper patch bullets for my 50-90 Sharps, I run a three seven alloy that Brinells at around 15, they still bump up nicely for 1.5" four shot groups at 100 yards with factory barrel sights on my C-Sharps rifle.

gunner what weight paper do you use. played briefly with PP in the 70's but drifted away. now i am retared, i can get back to it.
thanks Tom

Hey Tom,

No particular weights, I use the little sticky note pad paper from the office supply store.

OK
Sticky note paper.

So what message do you write on the paper before you put it around the slug and load it up.
Just Curious

"YOU'RE FU-KED"

Funny stuff

okay, i am a little jealous. A siamese mauser has always been at the top of the list in a way, just never managed to trip across one i could steal at a lowball price.

Well....the Greeks would print one word on thier lead slugs for thier slings. Translated to "TAKE THIS" (that would do...);)

i saw one 20 years ago at a pawn shop for 235.00 and didn't have it at the time. been looking every since.
saw one here in the classifieds and jumped on it. very nicely made and shoots like a laser. 405's and the 500's shoot to the same point of aim. bought a bolt handle block but have gotten used to the straight so am in no hurry to bend it.

one thing i wish someone would tell me how to do, but i want to make a duplex load bullet. Real hard base, soft lead front.

I use two pots, one for pure lead plus a tiny amount of tin, and another for WW alloy. A pistol case makes a great dipper for the pure lead, depends on the size of bullet but often a 9mm or .380 case works well. Wrap a piece of baling wire around the case rim for a handle, and adjust case length so you'll use a full case of lead every pour.

You want to get the mold hotter than you normally would; the idea is to keep the pure lead nose liquid or close to it while you pour the other alloy on top. Heat up the mold past the point where you get frosty bullets from WW alloy.

Pour the pure lead in from the .380 case dipper, then the WW alloy right away. The mold will take longer to cool enough to drop the bullets, so it's a slow process. If desired, water drop or heat treat the bullets, the nose will stay soft.

yondering's spot on. you can adjust the amount of soft nose by trimming the pure lead dipper case, thereby throwing uniform casts.
i have 5 cases set up the way Yondering describes of different capacities. makes it handy

Were a fella interested in doing it proper he would get two moulds, base and nose, and a hammer die. Thing of beauty when done and they shoot exceptionally well when patched.

But Dan, just think of all the funky wrinkled, half filled, lopsided boolits we wouldn't get to use to throw off our alloy with when we re melt them.

True that. I have guard rails.

Sometimes.

What is a "hammer die"?

Ed

Yeah, very good advice above.

My wrinkled, visually unpleasing stuff disappeared when I threw in resting the up to temp mould on a hotplate to "cool" Resting the mould on the hot plate keeps the nose section hotter for a mite bit, creating a better weld and better looking finished bullet.
Yes on the two pots, but I usually dump the pure lead from the bottom pour. A bit of practice and a decent metering pot can work well.

Just shot another dink 2 weeks ago with a 50 cal./12 ga. sabot slug load

Worked like a champ.
Went through the deer and several small trees. Never recovered.

from RCE LLC.
The Hammer Swage or pound die is the earliest type of die. A piece of steel has a cavity machined into it. A lead slug is placed in the die, a base punch is inserted into the die, and the punch is hit with a heavy hammer or mallet. The lead slug is “pounded” into a bullet. The die is then turned over and banged against a solid object until the bullet is jarred out of the die. A more modern approach uses an ejection punch to push the bullet out of the die. Making bullets in this manner is very slow and not especially precise.

Hammer dies or swages look pretty much like the image below. The big brass hammer smacks the large ram and the wee little one ejects the bullet when ready. This particular die takes a tapered round nose form and creates a flat nose .50 cal fast twist picket bullet of about 490 grains. -Hint- Be sure to put a little lube on the slug before you try turning it into a bullet or it might be a bit of a hassle removing it.

The die feeds an old D. Hilliard rifle dating from the 1880s or there abouts.







The image below is small, sorry about that. If you look closely at the 2d from the right you will see a 2 piece .50 cal bullet of 850 grains that was used to take the national slug gun championship back 10 years or so. You can see a bit of color change at about the 1/3 height from the base.



On the left is the 'slug', on the right a finished bullet for the Hilliard rifle.

hey Dan, i have a sinker mold that casts just that same shape! have to weigh them but id bet they are about 200g's.
probably upset to 40 cal.
never thought of it but would make a good squirrel boolit