I have a good friend who is no dummy when it comes to keeping equipment going. He has told me that lots of the bigger trucking and construction companies are straining their used motor oil and adding to the diesel fuel they use. I tried about a gallon of carefully drained and strained oil in my old 5600 Ford tractor and have run it several hours with no issues yet. The mix I've used is about 15/1. Diesel is $5 and used oil disposal is a problem (I usually burn brush piles with it).

What would those of you that have burned a lot of diesel think?

Is bio- diesel a big thing still?

I remember a few years ago….

Every redneck with the jacked up F-2Fiddy was wanting to get all the used oil from the Mescan places….

#powestrokin
#rollingcoal

I have read about people doing that in Turd World countries.

Ya know when you see some pos turnip tractor going down the road in Romania with dude’s fat ass old lady sittin on the fender with him, You KNOW theyre adding spent oil to stretch their fuel

Never tried it but my grandpa told
Me about doing it in his younger days to stretch diesel

Worked for a large trucking company when the switch was made to ULSD and even today - they fill up at the pump like everyone else. Nothing added by the driver. Not oil, not a treatment.

I had the injector pump and injectors rebuilt on my Ford 2600 a few years back, and the mechanic who did the job advised me to add a little cheap 2-cycle oil to my fuel. No mention of used motor oil. Considering how cheap you can get 2-cycle oil I would go with that before I would consider used motor oil.

This practice has been going on for years and years, especially in California where waste oil actually costs money to get rid of. I am not aware of any problems created in the injection system. I might go so far as to say the old Cummins engines using the PT injectors actually had fewer stuck plungers and bent pushrods. Newer injection systems and synthetic oils? I don't know.

Hastings, I know nothing about Ford Ag machinery, but if you have a Bosch style, CAV, or Roosa Master style pump...you may benefit from the addition of lube oil in your fuel. It has nothing to do with sulfur, when they decided on an environmentally friendly diesel blend in the 80's they removed a lot of suspended paraffins to clean up particulates...reducing the lubricity of the fuel...costing the public billions in injection system failures. But, 15/1 may be a little rich, you could be building carbon deposits that will cause you problems down the line.

Diesel mechanic told me Marvel Mystery and 2 cycle were good additives for the pump and injectors. I use Marvel and Yamalube when filling.

A friend gave me 5 gallons of Yamalube so that was easy enough.

Hastings, in the oilfield we did extensive running of gas turbines with light, sweet crude oil that was double filtered and then run through a centrifuge. These turbines were dual fuel, natural gas/diesel units, and we needed a dependable backup for long time power generation.

At work, we generally add 20 gallons or so per thousand to increase lubricity. Used hydraulic fluid as well.

OK, thanks, I'll top off the tank and that will dilute it some. The 24HCF is a wonderful place for information.

What ratio do you like?

How do you guys filter the motor oil?

I would have to strain the dead mice out of my mini LeBrea Tar Pits stowed under my mopar.

Use a turkey fryer cone

There is a lubricity chart online where someone compared different additives to increase the lubricity of ULSD. As I recall two cycle motor oil worked best. Used motor oil didn't increase lubricity very much. I have disposed of used motor oil in my 96 Ram and my 4020 tractor. Both have mechanical pumps. I would be cautious about burning used motor oil in something with electronic pumps and injectors. I burned 1 gallon of used motor oil to 5 gallons of diesel. I strained the oil through a paint strainer first.

In my feed truck that I have injector issues I run a bottle of Lucas cleaner/lube. Very little issues if I do that with every tank fill. Some guys will add a quart of ATF as well.

I've done it in my big trucks, little trucks and earth moving equip. It never caused any damage. I generally mix 1 gallon of used oil to 40 gals of diesel. You can go stronger if you need to get rid of more oil. The strongest I went was 1:10 and I did notice a loss of power when it was that strong. Thicker oil (gear and 50wt trans) I mix thinner (1:50 or 60).

The fuel tank on the tractor holds 13 gallons, and the mechanic suggested about a quart per tankful.

The use of 2 stroke oil is wide spread. 3 oz per tank of fuel. Motor oil would need more than just filtered, before I would mix it with diesel fuel, in my pickup. On line there are quite a few recycling motor oil and blending, for diesels. You might want to investigate how they accomplish the task!

In older engines from the pre-common rail days have at it, it won't hurt anything.

In a new computer controlled common rail system with electrically controlled injectors there's no way I'd put used motor oil in the fuel.

52:1 in a full tank. 2 stroke oil seems like the best option since it is made to lubricate and burn off. Do you need it with every tank or just like scheduled maintenance?

I have never put used motor oil in my diesel truck tank. But I have been using it for almost 50 years as bar oil in my chainsaws. just another way to make use of it.

We best get on it then.

Thank you both

Slum, you should have been a screenwriter for Quentin Tarantino!

You paint pictures with words!

I saw a short documentary a few years ago about a young couple who drove a diesel VW van across country on meat grease that they would pick up from burger joints along the way. The meat grease would congeal in the tank so they had a separate tank for it. They would run on diesel until the heat from the engine liquified the meat grease then switch over to running it on the meat grease fuel tank. They said the exhaust smelled like grilling burgers.

I was in the wholesale fuel and lube business for 29 years. The ultra low sulfur diesel fuels today reduced lubricity, and cetane content. We tried various fuel treatments over the years, and the best for increasing the above mentioned shortcomings was Diesel Treat EDT. About 4oz per 25 gallons. As mentioned above, no way I'd put used motor oil in a modern diesel engine, period.

That was my thinking on the 2-cycle oil. It's made to be burned, so should produce less ash/carbon than ordinary motor oil.

If I am just topping off a tank with a few gallons I don't bother with the oil. I wait until I am filling up a near empty tank.

The thing that interests me about that - does it burn/ignite at a different point than diesel does? Sooner/later in the combustion stroke/cycle?

https://itstillruns.com/do-motor-oil-diesel-fuel-5851825.html

I'm sure it just slightly lowers the cetane value of the fuel, but in an older engine like the X600 series Fords (1970's vintage) I doubt it really matters.

I think the Romanians who read USA news might just consider the USA the 'turd world'.

A bit like STP viscocity enhancer I would imagine... Helps seal up and lubricate those rings...

LOL! This thread ought to get the greenies’ knickers in a bunch.

Would that be in your diesel electric locomotive?

The one that goes...

Toot Toot

Teal, Common motor oils when introduced into the combustion chamber which is at full operating temperature (!)in an atomized condition raise BTU's/energy. This is hard to measure in motive equipment...but in large power gensets and large marine diesels, which have individual cylinder pyrometers and constant manifold intake pressure monitoring(turbo engines of course) it is easy to see.

I have a 1966 Oliver 1850 that has a Perkins 6 cylinder engine. I add one ounce of 2 stroke oil to every gallon of diesel I put in it. I don't use enough diesel to get a storage tank so I'm buying diesel 5 gallons at a time from commercial pumps. I'm suspicious of the low sulfur fuels not getting enough lubrication to the fuel pump and injectors so adding the oil is cheap insurance.

kwg

Lots of great ideas.

Drove for Schneider National in the 90s.

One of the biggest long haul companies, they had 12,000 trucks on the road. They were making their money from saving it. Every cent, every part of a cent. Studied everything intensively and scientifically.

Right down to being able to tell you have much lineal distance was lost to a truck running new lug style drive tires. (800 feet/mile driven, due to tread flex)


At every PM we were supposed to bring the truck to the shop with the 2 120gallon tanks 1/2 to 3/4 full of fuel. So there was room for the 10 gallon of oil, and enough diesel to dilute it.

They were supposed to filter it, but I had fuel filter issues several times
soon after PM. Got tired of changing new filters out, so just went in for PMs with my tanks full from then on. And no more filter issues.

This was in the mechanical engine days. Cummins.
Don't think it was done on the Series 60 Detroits when they came along.


You dam sure can't be doing it on post 2007 EPA engines.

I figure if I get low, once I get the old MF fixed, I'll just go to town and siphon some oil out of the tanks a lot of folks have for their Monitor heaters.

If I think it needs more lubricity, there's always bacon greeze and olive oil from frying and stuff around here. Put it in a jar for now so's it don't go in the septic tank.

Imagine what they think about LadyBoy Kotek?

When I change the oil in my boats the hose on the oil change pump goes into the fuel tank. Got 28k hours on my JD 466 and took the valve cover off once to adjust the lifters. My 1992 IDI F250 has 430k miles and one tank is always full of used motor, transmission or hydraulic oil mixture. VEGETABLE OIL is a no go for me it gums up everything. My truck smokes a little more
when burning straight oil but not terrible. I drove it to VA bear hunting when POS obama had diesel at $5 a gallon. It was in the teens and my old truck didn't want to fire without a gas rag in the air cleaner.

Uh.....no.

I wouldn't do it.

If I won't use it in a crank case...I sure as hell am not going to use it in an injection system.

One of my friends bought a diesel Mercedes and ran it on oil from the fryers at his grocery stores. He owns the Stokes grocery stores so he had a decent supply of cooking oil. I asked him if he craved fried chicken when he drives.

Bb

I have about 350 gallons of used motor oil. I'm thinking I'm sitting on a gold mine.

I turned 70 this summer. The tractor I was asking about was built when I was 26.

I bought a new Ford 5600 back in 1976. It had 9000 hours on it when it burned up. Couldn't beat those model Fords.

There’s no way in hell I’d put used crankcase oil into my injection system. Common rail systems and electronic unit injectors are big money to fix. If I was worried about lubricity of low sulfur fuel I’d use a fuel additive. Used crank oil may have trace amounts of metal, antifreeze etc. Not going to put that back in.

And those old X600 series tractors really seem to hold up well. My 2600 still runs like a top.

New Holland bought Ford and the 2 big New Holland Hayfield tractors owned by 2 good friend have been a pain in the a$$. My 5600 just keeps chugging along. Had to put 2 water pumps on in the last 20 years and a new fuel tank. When I get this tank pretty well run out I'm going to change the fuel filter and take a look.

Never

Have not read all the replies but I was born into the farming industry and actually let's just say tripped into the excavation industry I'm in the excavation industry for all over 30 years. Putting no use motor oil and some diesel tanks just kind of old news. But I absolutely would not do this in anything newer than probably around in the mid-90s

Well....seeing how used engine oil is generally acidic, sometimes very acidic.......



You change that schit for a reason. Burn it in your stove.

I heat my shop with drain oil, dripped into a Franklin stove full of cast iron- - - -old brake rotors, cylinder heads, etc. Once the iron heats up, a tiny drip keeps the place comfortable even in very cold weather.

Very cold weather??


Tell us more......

Freezing temperatures. lololol

I heard that the Army did it in their big trucks. I did it a few time in my 82 Mercedes station wagon. Gas mileage was a little lower. Smoked a little more. One quart per 18 gallon tank full of new diesel. Didn't see the benefit.

This.

The best 2-cycle oils for the purpose (of lubricity in diesel engines) are the ones for your 2-cycle boat motor, that are TCW rated. They are ashless and burn very cleanly. I use it on my old K5 6.2 with the main objective of keeping the pump seals tight. Works great. At 20 plus dollars a gallon for TCW-rated oil, the savings from this are in equipment longevity, not miles per gallon.

I have "thinned" diesel fuel with hydraulic fluid, kerosene, and vegetable oil - always virgin, never reused - but figured out it was more trouble than it was worth after the filters clogged up prematurely and I had to pump out my tank (once) and change filters (prematurely more than once). I looked at waste oil, and leftover gas/oil mixture from my boat motors, but considered I could never get them clean enough without a substantial investment (filters, centrifuge, etc.) so would give it to a good ole boy with an old multi-fuel deuce and a half who loved the stuff.

All that said, no way would I run a modern diesel truck on waste oil of any kind. IMO too risky for such an investment. The old adage to equipment longevity applies: clean fuel, clean water, clean air, right?

My 6.2 is a 1984 and could probably run on pure 2-cycle oil if needed, so I don't get hyper-fussy about the ratios. That said, I use about an ounce per gallon, but not at every fill up, so Kentucky windage..... Since I'll sometimes add the 2-cycle oil at the pump location and don't want to take the time to pull the little measuring jug out and get all scientific, will deploy the highly refined "ear method" of a "glug" per every couple gallons...or so. LOL. YMMV.

Nope, commercial additives be OK

Everyone talking about doing this - doing it in old equipment, not modern.

Large trucking fleets run an average age of 3 years or so, mebbe a little more with the last 2 years.

No way are they doing this. Which would make me question/wonder why he told you they were. Which naturally would make me skeptical of other bits of information.

I don't think it's worth the time and effort to save 5 bucks. No one is going to tell me it doesn't shorten fuel filter life either.

Ours gets poured into a 1000 gal fuel tank just before it is filled. It goes through a filter when pumped, generally into a 100 Gal, truck mounted tank, and is filtered again when pumped into the tractors which are all 1980's to mid 90's model John Deeres. Fuel filters get changed annually on the tractors of course.

You are now on Gretta's list.

If Greta only knew what gets burned on farms.

THEN TELL her maybe her head will explode . the goo the bad the ugly

In years past. Old motor oil was poured in to the diesel tanks. Pretty common practice.
A friend of mine who owned a restaurant ran filtered cooking oil in his. Hasbeen

Cummins marketed a system that blended crank case oil into the fuel so as to never require changing the oil, only keeping it topped up. It was called Centinel and is still sold for their marine engines.
In a modern non deleted again burning motor oil will plug up your DPF due to mettalic ash buildup.
Provided your deleted and the oil is properly filtered a little motor oil doesn't hurt and probably is a good thing given the low lubricity of modern ULSD.

Mixing 5 gallons of kerosene and 1 quart of SAE 30 oil equals #2 diesel fuel.

Yellow freight who has a terminal in town a few years ago had a line running from the oil pan to the diesel tanks and just having the driver check the oil level and add as needed. I do not know if they still use this method.

My brother was selling diesel through the farm co-op that he managed and got some diesel fuel that had the nasty habit of turning into something like mayonnaise when freezing weather hit. Of course he found a new supplier. They came back saying they cured the problem by adding 20% kerosene.

How do you figure that? The hydrocarbons for each are completely different. Work in refining btw..

In the military we call them yukyuk stoves and that's how we heated and cooked in artic weather.

Used petroleums.

Very efficient .... once you get used-to the drip-burn-poof sound.

Don't ask me where the name Yuk Yuk comes from. I've been told everything from the sound it makes when the used oil hits the metal plate to it making "that funky sound" to it being short for Yukon Stove.

And the price of 5 gallons of kerosene is?? What a dumb ass

I ran it up to 50-50 in my powerstroke for years. Motor oil has more
BTUs than #2 diesel. Swift burned all their waste oil until the Feds made them stop.
A buddy used to add 5 gallons a tank to red fuel to turn it black. This was in a 2004 Cummins

Jeezus people....not all contaminates in used engine oil are particulates!

I bought a 2018 Dodge 3500 a few months back. I then found out about the CP-4 debacle so I ran Hotshot to improve lubricity until it was my turn to get the (I believe) CP-3 that wasn't prone to eating itself. It is about 20 grand if your fuel pump eats itself because they replace everything between the injectors and tank.

IMHO, I ain't putting anything in my trucks tank aside from diesel and Hotshot. Used motor oil? Start saving now...

The older diesel engines were pretty flexible as to what fuel they would burn as long as you didn't introduce water, abrasives or other contamination, as long as it was a combustible hydrocarbon and not too combustible like gasoline. Some combustible hydrocarbons like grease and gear oil probably wouldn't work out well because they were too thick to flow. In the mid 1990's bureaucrats began mandating cleaner burning diesel engines and everything changed. I would not burn used oil in a later model diesel engine. Repairs can get very costly.

The 2 stroke oil is for lubrication as todays diesel fuel is dry. I don't know about the newer diesels, but my 96 powerstroke likes the 2 S oil, otherwise I will get some sticking injectors, or maybe I should say noisy injectors. Around here 2 S oil is not cheap. I have never tried running used motor oil. One advantage to the old truck is it can burn heating oil.

I put a qt of Pennzoil.premium plus 2 stroke oil to. 38 gallons of diesel.. I figure if it can keep 2 200HP Yamahas singing, a quart ain't gonna hurt my truck.
.I figure good top end lubrication.

Is heating oil different from diesel? The house I was raised in had a diesel furnace and the same stuff was burned in my uncle's tractors.

Kerosene has a lower jelling temperature, than #2 diesel. Adding kerosene keeps the diesel from jelling. Common practicd where it gets cold. Additives like the 911 products, do the same thing at triple the cost!

A friend of my dad was in the Marines back in the 60's and worked in the motor pool on trucks. He told me they were taught this for emergency fuel. I never said it was cost effective.

One of the guys I work with does it in his super duty. It is older and has been deleted.

Anybody ever tried this in a new generation powerstroke?

Fuuck and no......lol

The 2 fuel filters might not like it you think?

A friend does it in his old coal boiler.

Uses an old gas can to hold oil, suspended from the floor joists.
Soldered a little valve into the bottom, copper line through an adapter into the fire box. He would throw a big hunk of wood in, turn on the drip.
Once adjusted the wood acted like a candle wick and the oil burned all day.
Wood didn't burn much, until the oil ran out.
Saves oil all year and burns it in the furnace during cold days.

Bro it's down to 58 here I'm freezing.

Probably not.


I just fail to see the benefit.


We've had zero fuel issues that I can remember with an '11 and '15.

I love the 6.7.
(jinx)

I do also, but it seems these newer generations are increasingly fuel sensitive. My question was more a who has ficked up trying in a 6.7. Higher fuel prices are cheaper than a new $10k fuel system.

99% of the time they run right.


Zero reason to chance it.

If you want to do it right, you need a centrufuge filter. As long as there isn't an optical sensor in the fuel system, you're good. Duramaxs are not good candidates

I alaska we can still get regular heating oil, in other words its not low sulphur. I think thats due to change. We use to be able to get #2 or #1. As of late its all #1. I have been burning #1 in my boiler at home for the past 10 years and the difference in fuel use is negligible between 1 and 2. #2 should have more btus in it, as much as 17%, however I have never seen that difference on paper in a boiler. And #1 sure burns a heck of a lot cleaner, hence less maintenance.

In terms of fuel gelling, I run some additives besides 2S oil, for quite a while now I have been using what Ford sells, maybe a stanadyne product. One is a cetane booster and the other is for jelling. I have tried a number of products and suspect they all work. Lubrication for the injectors on the 7.3 is important. I have also used ATF, which also works well. Running jet fuel (kerosene) is dammed expensive and unnecessary. Only had fuel gell once a -40 ish as either forgot to add anti-gell or didn't use enough

Now that sounds like a safe system.

Good info here, but still on topic ..

.


Friendly warning.

Sulphur has an anti-gelling property. Or some effect.

Old fashioned (pre-500ppm) fuel wouldn't gell untill below zero.
500ppm never seemed to be an issue.

<15ppm means just that, any number under. The loading rack we used
tested it from pipeline shipments. Some would gell at 17F! It was assumed
that the sulphur was almost at 0F on those batches.


The first winter we had <15ppm and had a cold snap, trucks were gelled up everywhere. Personally barely limped mine over the hill to a station and pumped warm(er) fuel into it. Holding my breath the whole time.
This was fuel we had hauled and we personally added a high quality commercial treatment to every load dropped. (1qt/1000gl)

I use ATF and Lucas in my tractor and it seems to have a tad bit more power.

The new style of diesel just don't have the work that the older stuff had.

But never thought of used oil.

That's right... I triple filter all modern fuel in modern engines... 50 Cetane when possible... Stanadyne or better as needed.

Older diesels with lower pressure injectors... I can't see any harm (after a double/triple filter).

But I won't be doing it personally...

ATF... NEVER!

Good to know, I don't use that truck very much anymore, especially in the winter. And use cheaper fuel when possible.

Not being contrary, just asking, whats the problem with ATF?

An older diesel will burn almost anything. I've run straight ATF in older greyhounds with 2 cycle detroits

No worries at all... I had heard the same thing years ago and dug into it some... below is a quick Google Fu...

"ATF or automatic transmission fluid is designed for exactly that, automatic transmissions. Here are the properties of ATF and effects they have on a diesel engine when mixed with diesel fuel:

Emulsifies Water - In a closed system like a transmission any moisture from condensation needs to be absorbed by the ATF to prevent rust from causing damage. In diesel fuel this will cause water to pass through your fuel filter/water separator and enter your fuel injection system. This water will come out of emulsion one the engine has cooled down causing rust in vital fuel injection parts, eventually damaging them.

High Flash Point and High Viscosity - A high flash point makes ATF easier to handle without the fear of ignition. Being exposed to temperatures of 200 F, ATF need to remain viscous to protect transmission parts. In diesel fuel this thickens the fuel and results in pour injector atomization. The increased flash point lower the cetane level of the fuel. Both of these characteristics reduce the power and efficiency of the engine and while increasing emissions. A increased level of ash deposits will caused coking of the cylinder and injector nozzle, leading to engine damage over time.

Friction Modifiers - Automatic transmission require a level of friction in the fluid for proper operation of the clutches and bands, so friction modifiers are added to the fluid. Friction in fuel injection equipment is bad.

Detergents - Since service intervals of transmission fluid is quite long, the fluid contains detergents to clean internal components that may gum up over time. If a fuel system is suffering from varnish build up then these detergents will possible cure the problem but with all the other negatives associated with ATF your best bet is to use a diesel fuel conditioner designed for diesel fuel only.

PS: Look for a conditioner that does not disperse water or eliminate it. This means they emulsify the water. This is very bad for any diesel, especially common rail ones."

#7 post here... https://www.cumminsforum.com/threads/atf-in-diesel-fuel-help.181650/

Somewhere during the Obongo years... the filtration standards for diesel fuel (sold to the public) got jacked up. Fuel from the pump had been previously been filtered to 30 microns... that changed to 100 microns (or something like that... I have NO facts or details to quote on this one... sorry).

This was not a huge deal on older low pressure fuel delivery (i.e. the old 12 valves etc)...

BUT when high pressure delivery came about in 1998.5... and every manufacture had to upgrade to high pressure delivery... i.e. 24 valve, LB7, the 6.0 etc. AND on board filtration did not occur (30, 10 and 5 micron as an example)... injectors started to fail (think of a sandblaster nozzle... and the wear is takes at high pressure with abrasives)... same with diesel and micro silica...

Worn injectors mist poorly...

Then came ultra high pressure injection (another load of crap from .GOV)...

Long story short... the ultra high pressure systems make great power and thus lower emissions... But they are complicated as hell... and you better feed them excellent fuel and air.

Filtration is your best friend...

If you have anything newer than 1998.5...

Cash,
Gotta disagree on the ATF/emulsifier part. Al least from my
experiences.

Drove for a Green Bay based company for years, they knew how to spec trucks for cold weather, when It got so cold there were gelled trucks everywhere, you didn't see Pumpkins down.

Every truck had a fuel/water separator with integrated heater.
We were issued isopropyl alcohol to be used as a fuel treatment in cold weather. It's purpose wasn't anti-freeze, it was as an emulsifier.

A water separator can only work on the water mixed in the fuel, something that doesn't happen much without an emulsifier. Once they mix, and get to
the separator, the water is separated out.


Their trucks were the only diesels I've ever run with separators.
(Pickups not included)

Sawmills, loaders, tractors, excavating equipment....winter blend,
self-blended with kero, and/or treatment and I've never had a truck
down. As above, was close. But it was an unprepared issue..


Since we are on water...
Seriously cold places not included here,
most "gelling" is iceing.
Folks don't distinguish the two, and get bit by water.

This makes a lot of sense. Injector failure seems to be a more common problem with the high pressure systems. Filtration becomes more important. Plus the fact the injectors fire more than once on each compression stroke.

I looked into this after I bought my 2019 Chevy Duramax.Seems there are emulsifiers and demulsifiers. .The manual recommends the Delco stuff which is emusifier, but Standyne is also an emulsifiers. Not the Power Service products. Since the Duramax has no water separator, 98.5 Dodge I used the Power Service because I had the FASS on it which had a water separator.

Think I will not add used motor oil in my fuel

Used to dump it in my oil furnace tank, no issues.

After action report. Changed out the fuel filter the other day after running the used motor oil through the old 5600 Ford tractor. Really not much dirt to show for 2 years running on that filter(only about 180 hours). Changed the hydraulic filter. Almost always use Wix filters.
Bought hay this year and didn't put on 100 hours, only about 85 in the last 14 months. Some bush hogging and about 100 days of feeding every other day.

Would you change oil or wait until it rolls over 100 hours?

Would you continue to add a well strained oil to the fuel? I like to save a dollar but I don't believe in false economy.

It's about a '78 model so it's not as particular as the EPA approved models.

Cummins sold and may still sell a system where by the oil in a class 8 truck engine never needs to be changed. A little bit of the engine oil is always injected into the fuel filter to be burnt in the engine. As a result you just need to keep the engine topped off snd change filters on schedule.

Still wondering how well a paper filter would filter out an acid.

Real basic stuff in a '78...

Your machine... your choice...

Personally I only run straight triple filtered diesel...

Even at that... I lost a pump on my MEP-002A 2-3 months ago from water/lack of use.

Part costs more than I paid for the machine... in theory. Sill sorting.

Interesting...

Would be interesting to see a YouTube on that...