Had a light strike on a round the other night in a deep cold. I hypersonic cleaned the bolt, now what should I use to keep it form having the same issue again

What does “Deep cold” mean in degrees?

Use a low viscosity synthetic oil sparingly, or run it dry.

Hornady one shot dry lube is fantastic stuff.

Agree with IB. In “deep cold” I’d be inclined to run it dry. The firing pin doesn’t need to be lubed to work properly. Firing pins usually malfunction in the cold because they are OVER lubed.

If your firing pin/spring doesn't have grease on it or is dirty, I would look towards the over travel on your trigger. A lot of folks run a very tight sear/hammer tolerance and temp/debris can tighten the gap enough to to impede, or stop, the hammer from falling. Not too uncommon on Model 700's. Darrel Wick

Hornady one shot or Superlube spray.

If any lube it would be this.

https://www.amazon.com/American-Grease-Stick-Lock-ease-Graphited/dp/B000GKW2NM

Have been using eeszox in below zero without issue for dozen years? Or run dry. Someone mentioned hornady one-shot. Dear friend (rip) engineer, retired competitor, loved it on everything, though he no longer hunted, either. I had it gum the action on a silly marlin m60 action block and that kind of chilled me on it’s use for anything but rails, barrels, and rimfire blocks; things that have a little inertia behind them at least. Coat dies with it, too. Not to diminish one-shot, just my example of one. Still use it often… a little thing that reminds me a friend passed, but i don’t put it on bolt-action firing pins/springs.

Run it dry. No lube necessary.

RS

Not uncommonly overlubed with WD-40.

I've also seen this happen but, it happens when the action is not cleaned properly before application, HOS will break everything loose when it is sprayed on and then all the crap that was inside gets gummy.

Hornady one shot is a dry lube, once it dries it will not "gum" up.

I see this often, "Paul, what was wrong with my gun"

"It was dirty"

"Really? I always clean it when I'm done shooting"

"Not good enough, do you want to learn how to clean it?"

And then they learn........

Clean the firing pin, apply your favourite gun oil, and then wipe it all off with a clean cloth. Done. Don't overthink it.

100%.

Don’t disagree at all, except that being ocd, this was ultrasonically cleaned beforehand. Hornady’s stuff, no less. Still, could of been something left in there. So in any event, am leery of it in said application.

👆

EEZox or Corrosion X, properly applied (and dried!) is what I've used down to 30 below. Or totally dry. Makes no matter, but the former do give some lube quality, as well as corrosion protection. It's all I've ever hunted for 30 years or so, regardless of temperature.

The only fail to fire I've had happened about 10 years ago out of Kotzebue, about 15 below, but that was due to a rough rust pitted FP shank and a stress-shortened spring on a gift AFU rifle found on the tundra by a friend in the Brooks range. A bit of emory cloth smoothed the surface (really should replace that SA725 striker) and a new spring made it good to go, without failure since using only Corrosion X on it. Needed a new takeoff barrel too, and refinishing of wood and receiver, but that's another story. It's a killing machine (ugly, tho) and I have all of about $125 in it.

If I did a lot of shooting in moderate temps, I'd probably change my ways a bit on lubing, for the particular rifle in question, but for a lightly used rifle, especially on one-off hunting trips, keep it "dry" per 1st sentence.

I'm not familiar with "hypersonic cleaning the bolt".

Is it preferable to disassembling it, removing the firing pin, spraying everything with gun scrubber, and wiping it all down to clean off the gunk?

Yup

Dry graphite

Graphite if you have to have something there,but i don't put anything because if you do the dust around here will cake or clog it up bad enough that it's hard to get out.

I hate cleaning dirt,dust caked with oil out of tight places.

Bacon grease.

I’ll 2nd Eezox….

Teflon dry lube

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
This 1000000 %

I"ve used Eezox for over 30 years and it's as good as you can get for rust prevention in the humid NE summers and keeping semi-autos running in cold NE winters!

Corrosion X works about the same, only maybe a little bit better. If it is good enough for Phil out on the Alaska Pen., I take that as "good enough". I switched to it on his recommendation of it here on the Campfire, when I ran out of Eezox, and never looked back. Nothing wrong with Eezox tho.

I've several bottles of C-X, enough probably to outlast me - stocked up, just in case....

They both work best applied to warm metal, allowed to dry, and 2nd or 3rd coats added. Blued, stainless, or parkerized, it's (they both) are good on all.

I don't know if this helps or not, and I readily claim that I have never hunted in anything like 10*F or less. Years ago when Break Free CLP came on the market, I guess about the mid 1970s(?), I remember one of the selling points was that it was good at very low temperatures. I don't remember what that was, now, but it could easily be googled. It doesn't seem to be as popular as it once was, but I've been using it for years and I am very satisfied with it. Works fantastic on black powder guns particularly to prevent corrosion. Whatever you decide to try, clean it very good, wipe it down with a very thin coat of your selected lube, bag it and put it in a super cold freezer for a couple of days. Take it out and see what 'ya got. Just my non-expert advice. Additionally, I have heard very good reports on Hornady One Shot cleaner/lube as well.

Yet another vote for EEzox.

After the carrier vaporizes, the part feels dry to the touch and does not attract nor hold grunge.

/John

Don't have cause to clean firing pins very often, but I do lube them when I do. Graphite or molybdemun dysulfide, depending on how much coffee I had in the morning.

A very good but almost completely forgotten corrosion preventer/lube is wax. A light coat of Johnson'e Paste Wax, well buffed in, makes gun parts waterproof and slick.

I'm also a Corrosion X fan.

Dry.

What model gun is it?

Careful, I had a Rem 700 do this several years ago and made the mistake of mentioning it on here. Never seen so much butthurt in my life.

https://tsi301.com/main.htm

TSI-301


dave

I was taught to keep oil off the firing pin, one because of freezing, two because of dirt accumulation, clinging to the oil. Haven't had an issue in 60 years of hunting, 20 below freezing or 110 degree weather.

This^^^^

Never had any problems with Break-Free. I do keep Eezox around just in case.

G96 lube/cleaner

I'd spray it with carb cleaner to completely degrease (I assume that was what "hypersonic cleaning" did?) and either run it dry or dry graphite lube it. I have yet to find any 'low temp' gun oil that works when it is -20F or colder. Degreased and dry graphite lubed has worked for me down to -40F without issue. I had a number of the dreaded 'clicks' in extreme weather before going to dry graphite.

Complicated actions with lots of moving parts like autos and lever guns need degreased too but I wouldn't run them dry and without graphite. Simple bolts from a bolt gun generally are fine dry though.

I think I will listen to the Ak. guys.



mike r

I use C-X for parts that won't be affected by the freezing. I otherwise use Blaster Dry-Lube. It's cheap and easy to get at Home Depot. In a pinch, I've used Liquid Wrench Garage door lube also sourced at Home Depot . It's a little stinkier though.

I just looked up the pour point of Break-Free CLP and it is -65*F.

I'm staying home and throwing wood on the fire at temps below that.

Just hunt in the south.

I hear good things about starting fluid.

Lighter fluid is the best trigger lube & deicer. Had a Ruger 77 trigger freeze. It cost me a trophy Axis.