Trying to remove the gloss off of my stock, I heard it could be done with steel wool.
Is there a preferred method to doing this and what grade of steel wool should I use?
I don't want the finish to look cloudy or muddy, and I certainly don't want any scratches in it.
Thanks in advance for all tips.

Use 0000 steel wool or better yet bronze wool, Brownell's sells both. I use Johnson's Paste Wax as a lubricant, rubbing the 0000 in the wax and gently "floating" it over the stock. Your strokes should be straight in line with the grain of the stock and the full length of the stock. When you have covered the complete stock, set it aside until the wax forms a haze. Buff the wax with a new microfiber towel and examine to see if the de-glossing is to your satisfaction. If not repeat the operation, if it is apply another coat of wax with and old t-shirt and buff with the microfiber towel. Take your time and don't get in a hurry, depending on how glossy the finish is it may take several passes with the 0000 and wax.

I use a very similar method to gunswizard. I use 0000 steel wool with gun oil as a lubricant to take the gloss off the stock. I am not so careful as the Wizard seems to be and rub until the finish is dull, but very smooth. Then finish with thin coats of Johnson's wax until the desired "shine" is obtained. This may be 2 coats.....or it may take as many as 10. It's all a matter of what "look" you prefer. However, the wax finish will never be a high-gloss finish like with a urethane finish....it will be a warm, classic look.

Wow! Just wow!

Yeah, classic. Saw it in Newell's book.

Sitka, this is one of those times that I agree with you 100%.

What re you agreeing about? Did I miss something?
Are one of these methods NOT a good idea?

Don't use gun oil on the stock when you are rubbing out the shine. Only stock I ever ruined, and thank goodness it was just a pistol grip, was when I put gun oil on it. If the wood is sealed, you might get away with it, but I wouldn't risk it. Mineral spirits is ok, as is paste wax (depending on where you are in the process).

Some woodworkers suggest using just the steel wool with no paste or liquid, the thought being that you can more easily see how well you are doing on the gloss reduction if you don't use paste or liquid. Personally I use the steel wool and paste wax since it's a less aggressive approach.

Thank you

No steel wool. Use Scotchbrite synthetic pads. Gun oil???XXXXXXXX

I use Scotchbrite with Johnson or Butcher's paste wax sometimes to avoid issues caused by steel wool. Using gun oil is not a good idea no matter how well your stock is sealed, gun oil is for metal not wood. Using it on wood will allow it to soak into the wood and/or contaminate the wood finish so that future finish application will not work well if at all.

It might be heresy, since so many people seem to argue against use of steel wool, but i get the best results from using it. If the wood being rubbed out has no open pores, but has a filled finish or film finish, I don't have a problem with small bits of steel wool being left on the surface of the wood.

I just finished a gunstock with Waterlox Original. It came out really well. So much better than my last hand rubbed oil finish. Once the finish was cured (mostly) I rubbed it out with steel wool and Johnson's paste wax and got just what I wanted. I'm not going to say that's the best finish possible, for two reasons. One, it most likely isn't the 'best', and two, I don't want to get involved in another long battle about refinishing.

Anyway, I got the Waterlox on the suggestion of a distant cousin that's a high dollar woodworker. For what he sells a small table for, you could buy a custom rifle and NF scope and still have a lot of money left. Prior to that, I had used a lot of wiping varnishes, which looked good, and I had also used shellacs and lacquer
In spray gun applied finishes that looked fabulous, but were really tough to apply well. So I went to him to see what he used. Waterlox Original. So I got some and used it on furniture. Very nice. I eventually googled up using it on a gunstock, and good things were said. And now I know that it does work great, and isn't that tough to use. After the wood prep, I hung the stock from the ceiling in my workshop and applied thin coats using foam brushes. First coat looked bad. Second coat was better. By the 6th coat it looked terrific and had filled all the wood pores. So, a few more coats, let it cure, and rubbed it out. Really nice.

I will also admit that I broke another rule, in that the only Waterlox I had on hand was the Satin, so I used that while worrying just a bit about the final finish. I should not have worried. I will use it again.

What's great for a furniture finish is not necessarily so for a gun stock that may well be exposed to a lot of inclement weather in the course of its life.

Finishes like Waterlox, Truoil, etc. have been bandied about on this forum for longer than I can remember, and have been refuted by many knowledgeable people. It's a case where beauty is less than skin deep.

As far as steel wool is concerned, that old rhubarb has been laid to rest too.

Nobody, it would seem, bothers to do even a soup�on of research of past posts before launching one version or another of the same old tired question. I don't understand that.

Anyone that suggests they do not have the freckling problem with steel wool has never looked. Friable abrasives fall apart, period. Steel is harder than plastic and breaks with sharp edges. Those sharp edges get caught in the plastic (used as an adjective) finish which has been heated at the extremely local level by friction. That makes the finish gummy.

When those steel particles rust, and they will, they produce opaque freckles visible to 10x easily. Identical pieces side-by-side finished exactly the same with only the steel wool difference show it every time. No one would pick the freckled side, ever.

To suggest it is ignorance is fine unless it has been laid out cleanly and directly and you continue to argue the point without looking.

Just like thinning finish to increase penetration. I have the benefit of not having to guess...
art

Perhaps the only thing funnier in the world of wood finish tests is the use of "hand-rubbed" as if it means something positive in finish.

I don't usually hunt in rainy nasty weather any more, but when I did I never noticed any 'freckling' from bits of steel wool rusting. If it did freckle and I couldn't see it, then it isn't a problem anyway. I do make a point of not using steel wool when I finish anything with a water based compound. I'm sure that you know, but maybe not everyone does, that Waterlox does not contain any water other than in the name.

As to research, I did plenty prior to this last stock work. Just to see what else might be available and would interest me. That didn't include looking for the opinions of anyone on this forum.

Anyway, I liked what I read and what I saw on the use of Waterlox, and I had a new can. Thought I'd give it a try and I really like the way it came out. If, however, it doesn't hold up under use I will come back to the forum and say so.

Wow! Simple English eludes you...

The freckles are there, whether you choose to ignore them or not is your business. Making suggestions about finishes implies someone reading your "opinion" should perhaps follow your suggestion.

You perform no favor doing so UNTIL you have actually looked into what you are saying, especially when the logic and facts are clearly explained.

I have helped many people produce sample boards and not one has looked at a freckled finish and elected to use steel wool. Simply amazing how hard you want to fight for something you remain frigging clueless about. And freckling need not be extreme to be obvious to an unaided eye in good light.

Do you really want to continue to guess? And give advice at the same time?

No freckles yet. Maybe if I do some hunting in the rain the freckles will appear (or not).

To the OP, I still suggest the use of 0000 steel wool (or Scotchbrite pads) and paste wax. It's a simple and effective way to accomplish what you want to do. However, in light of the dangers that Sitka has mentioned, perhaps you shouldn't rub so hard that you cause the surface temperature of the stock to reach a temperature that will melt the finish and trap fibers of the steel wool. I suppose that could happen....maybe. So just rub lightly and keep the temp under about 150 degrees F and you should be Ok.

Or, you could just use the simple and straightforward approach suggested by Sitka. But wait...he didn't make a suggestion, did he. Just threw insults around like always.

STrip it an apply a dull finish is the only way I'd go.

I hate gloss anything. Stocks shoudl be dull and metal should be bead or sandblasted at least..

are we stealthily hunting here or marching in a gay parade?

First, go phuque yourself!

Second, you remain absolutely clueless, as always and prove it with every key stroke. Do you know the operating temperature of a phonograph needle? The sharp points in any abrasive system are far sharper and hotter than you can imagine. Though your guessing abilities remain awesome and 180 degrees out from reality.

Third, you remain clueless about something extremely easy to prove and want to brag about it. Congrats!

Fourth, your grasp of Physics is clearly underwhelming. Please prove it again in three key strokes or less. I know you have it in you!

Fifth, over the many years I have been here I have given a ton of direct advice on specific questions, including the concerns about steel wool, better alternatives, and other ways to address exatly the questions asked by the OP. The fact you are not bright enough to find those suggestions does not change the fact they are there and I gave them. And they have remained unchallenged for years. Many have tested them and admitted I was more than 100% correct. Because I am. But please, rally on! The comedy is priceless!

Your charming manner just keeps shining through. You are a delight to share ideas with. Such a warmhearted, fun and interesting guy. I'll bet you are the one everybody wants to talk to at cocktail parties.

There you go! I knew you could.

I guess you failed to read this statement from me on the first page of this thread. It explains the how and why of your grasp of the situation:

"Anyone that suggests they do not have the freckling problem with steel wool has never looked. Friable abrasives fall apart, period. Steel is harder than plastic and breaks with sharp edges. Those sharp edges get caught in the plastic (used as an adjective) finish which has been heated at the extremely local level by friction. That makes the finish gummy.

When those steel particles rust, and they will, they produce opaque freckles visible to 10x easily. Identical pieces side-by-side finished exactly the same with only the steel wool difference show it every time. No one would pick the freckled side, ever.

To suggest it is ignorance is fine unless it has been laid out cleanly and directly and you continue to argue the point without looking.

Just like thinning finish to increase penetration. I have the benefit of not having to guess..."

There is no "one perfect way" to produce a good finish but there are lots of bad ways. Steel wool is one of those.

Hint: operative words to look for in the above statement: "friable" and "extremely local."

I really don't have a problem with the idea that the steel particles can break off. That's entirely reasonable. And we all know there are many ways or materials to use to degloss a finish or even to add gloss to a finish when the deglossing becomes polishing. What I have said is that I have never seen any evidence of steel wool causing freckling on any of the stocks I have done. I don't hunt in a salt water environment, though I did grow up in Louisiana in a wet and high humidity area along the Mississippi River. If you say that freckling is unavoidable, all I can say is that I have not seen it. What I will do this week is to take my Winchester 9422 and put a small amount of salt water on the stock and see what happens. It has an Antique Oil finish with some open pores and it should have some steel particles in the finish or the pores.

If you are right, I will say so on this forum. And if I don't see any freckling I will say that and will expect you to be civil.

Frankly, I could not possibly care less what you admit to finding or not finding as it is extremely obvious the entire argument has completely slipped past what you use for logic.

Your total lack of comprehension on the Scientific Method is amazing. Where is the control group in your "gonna slap some saltwater on my 9422 stock?" You do not even understand the most basic concept in testing.

Make a sample board with steel wool and without patches side-by-side. Then subject them to whatever you want to test and compare the results. Then you might actually start to understand. Though I admit to feeling even that is highly unlikely...

I always use rottenstone and water for such tasks.

Sitka, I actually considered using some scrap walnut and finishing it in several ways, with and without the use of steel wool. But then, you had suggested (ranted) that the steel wool and wax I had used on that rifle stock would without a doubt lead to freckling when the broken bits of steel wool rusted that I had, in my ignorance, caused to be lodged in the finish. And you must be right, since the extreme surface temps brought on by my light rubbing of the stock with steel wool would most certainly cause steel particles to be snagged by the melted surface of the finish. So, with that in mind, why not just put water on the stock of a rifle that I had finished in the last year. Better yet, why not use salt water, which would cause a more rapid oxidation of the metal, and the freckling (per the Great and Powerful Oz, aka Sitka) would show up faster. But now you say that my approach isn't scientific enough. Well...per you the steel particles are definitely there. Why not just try to rust them. You aren't risking anything but credibility. I'm having to risk eating crow while also possibly screwing up a nice looking gunstock. No use trying to talk me out of it. I'm at the point where I really want to know. I never have seen any freckling on a gunstock I've finished, but maybe I need to mistreat the stock a bit more. Stay tuned.

Why should anyone expect you to see freckles when you have failed to see them before? Mistreating is not required... use is and that may be the crux.

I'm still pretty stove up from dragging Riley up that Hill trying to find a goat, and was about to jump in the hot tub- but I doubt there's an empty seat...

I'm 1.5 days into trying to get steel wool particles to rust (freckle) on my gun stock (if they are there, and Sitka says they are). So far, nothing, though I have raised the grain a bit in one spot.

Observations: the water did eventually penetrate the Antique Oil finish, though it took several hours to do so.

I plan to leave the rifle with dried salt water on the stock for about a week. Maybe more time is needed for freckling.

As for Sitka's mention that maybe I've had freckled stocks in the past but could never see the freckles, I have to say that if the freckles cannot be seen, then why are we worried about them?.

And...you might ask...how long have you had stocks that could possibly have freckled? Thanks for asking. First gun stock that I finished, which was a rubbed oil finish (using the technique outlined in The Shotgunner's Book, by Col. Charles Askins) was some time in the 1970's. It was a Marlin 336 that my Dad gave me around 1963, and it had really nice wood grain. I hunted with that rifle in the rain and mud and I'd occasionally rub some more oil (BLO) into the stock to renew its good looks. For years it was the only deer rifle I had, and I hunted hard. Gotta say that I never noticed any rusty freckles in the stock. Don't have the gun any more, or I'd go look at it.

Anyway, I'll come back in a week or so and report on whether or not I freckled my gun stock. Of course, you are going to have to take my word for whatever happens. I'm not talking to you, Sitka. Regardless of what happens, I think you are going to be of the mindset of "don't confuse me with the facts, my mind is already made up". But...maybe you'll actually be right and there will be rust spots and I'll have to eat crow. Gotta say...I really don't want to have to do that, but I will report on the results, even if they don't reflect well on what I believe.

Stay tuned.

Yup, all those stocks that were finished/refinished before synthetic steel wool was invented must be real rust buckets by now.

Nothing better for comedy than having the clueless congregate...

Nah, ass holes who think theirs' doesn't stink are (sadly for them) much more entertaining.

Took me all of 2 minutes to find Sitka's detailed description of how he does his stocks and it was within the last year. If some folks put as much effort into the search function as they do into picking fights I think we would all have more productive threads.

SS

I agree, but Art has a problem. He just too much of a "My way or the highway" type of guy. Gets old after a while.

If you post demonstrably stupid stuff guaranteed to needlessly make someone elses life more difficult and then want to argue very simple, very basic facts then I am persistent.

If you insist on throwing in with someone as obviously slow as 603, you deserve every bit of crap you catch.

And for the record I have listed more than a bunch of different ways to handle different situations. 603 took umbrage with my suggestion of Formby's Furniture Restorer on a simple, quick refinish. He also posted on a thread where I described spar varnish and oil in variable cuts with increasing oil.

And another with epoxy, and yet another with CA. All tested finishes that I have not only used but tested on sample boards for quality before using and certainly before suggesting someone else do it "My Way" or else.

You will notice my problem with him started when he started making suggestion on things I have personally done and tested and found wanting. Not by way of opinion or taste, but by way of actual failure. He continues to suggest a finish known for watermarking is a good stock finish.

How much good does that do anyone?

Sitka, I haven't trashed a thing you've said about any finish. The reverse is true. You simply don't want anyone else to have an opinion that isn't your opinion. I admit to kidding you about your fear of steel wool and your insistence on the inevitability of freckling. I actually think that you do know what you are doing, but I don't understand your reluctance to allow anyone else to have an opinion. You just need to lighten up a bit and let others share ideas without tearing into them as if they were idiots. I've been finishing wood projects since 1962 or 1963. Never said I was the best at it, and I keep learning as years pass, and I'm pretty good at it.

I'd use rottenstone, linseed oil, and a cotton cloth pad rather than steel wool.

My stocks are all "satin" or dull.

I don't go for flash, but on the other hand, if they are close enough to see/react to a shiny stock, they're close enough to shoot....

Steel wool and rusty stocks? Doesn't happen unless you're not wiping off between coats. More stocks have been finished with steel wool than any other abrasive I'd bet. I haven't seen many rusty finishes and haven't ever had problems with steel wool. I've tried synthetic wool and didn't like them as well as 0000 steel wool.

Sadly, it is obvious you have never made a sample board to see the difference. It takes little time and will save you from saying foolish things on a public forum.

603
Feel free to have any opinion you wish about anything. Feel freer to stick to facts when posting. Leading others down poor paths is no service.

You did indeed call out my suggestion for Formby's Furniture Restorer on a refinish job. Yet you have zero experience using it. And I am the bad guy limiting your right to an opinion?

I'll agree that misleading people is not a good thing, but to have you being the sole arbiter or what the right path is seems every bit as wrong. To borrow and modify a quote, "you may often be wrong, but you are never uncertain". As for any comment I made on Formby's, I don't remember being critical of its use. If so, and if it wasn't you that I was 'talking' to, I'd apologize. But, being as it IS you and you seem to be the most 'overly self-realized' person on this forum (apologies to Big Stick) and one of the most profane, I can't see the value in wasting an apology.

Now...back to steel wool. I'm 2.5 days into trying to make rust dots (aka freckles) show up on my gunstock. And yesterday, just to have some sort of control test on rusting, I put a common nail and a chunk of steel wool into the remaining salt water. At this time, in less than 24 hours, the nail is a good rusty red color, as is most of the steel wool. There is not the faintest sign of a rust spot on the gun stock. I took a bright light and a magnifying glass and I can't find the first rusty freckle. That leaves me with several possible conclusions. Perhaps the steel wool, in the presence of the paste wax, won't rust. Well, I used some of the same waxed up steel wool that I rubbed the stock with, and it rusted. Another possible conclusion is that just maybe steel wool didn't break off in mass quantities and get stuck in the wood pores and maybe my light rubbing of the stock with the steel wool didn't cause the surface of the finish to reach such high temperatures (as you said it would while calling me stupid for not knowing such an obvious thing) that it melted and trapped bits of steel wool.

Now I'm not inclined to make any sort of global statement that steel wool won't lead to rust on a gunstock, though you had no problem proclaiming that it would most certainly and without fail lead to rust dots on a stock. Well...in this one test, that didn't happen, and I actually tried to make it happen.

And, for the record, as a woodworker I have on hand all sorts of abrasives (Pumice and Rottenstone being among them). Even so, I use a lot of steel wool for this and that. It's a very useful light abrasive and it isn't like the use of 0000 steel wool is as bad as using a rusty salad fork on the stock.

Sitka, why didn't the stock freckle up? You promised that it would. Maybe somebody else will take up your burden and make a stock freckle. I quit trying, as of noon today, though I did leave salt crystals on the stock.

603 Don't confuse him with facts. You called his bluff. This will usually result in a personal attack and if you're lucky you'll get one of his world famous PM's.

PS. In the PM's he pulls out all the stops. Pure class...

And another of the special sort joins the 603 League of Distinguished Guessers...

And another example of your lack of class. 25,000 posts of pure unadulterated garbage....There seems to be a lack of civility with our friends in the north..

I prefer synthetic wool over steel wool, oil modified urethanes over BLO, and a good carnuba wax. Sometimes, new school is preferable over old school. Sometimes.

Maybe you need to reread just what you did to start it. Civility starts at home and I am only returning your initial kindness...

Now, why do you Drama Queens need to call freckles in an oil finish "rust buckets?" Maybe if you actually made that test board and looked you would understand that you are not looking for "rust buckets" and you would have enough information to actual add something to the conversation.

Please, think of the question rhetorically and realize at this point your opinions are proven groundless guesses and further input on the subject from you would be valueless, at best.
art

Please, show me a single thing I posted that I was wrong on... There are a few there over the years and I have already noted those and made amends for my few errors. Show me a new one. Surely it would be easy with 25,000 posts of garbage as you state.

Finding errors in your posts is obviously far easier and you have only a small percentage of the number of posts I do. Bet you cannot find even one there Mr. Civility.

And I take exception to you suggesting my posts about hunting with my son are garbage. Enough so you just made a very permanent enemy.

Pretty sure we were enemies after your name calling PM a few years ago. Your mantra seems to be anyone who does things different than Sitka deer is a fool. I make a point to never listen to someone who thinks they know everything. You personally attack anyone who offers a different way. Your playground bully attitude negates any rare pieces of useful info in your posts. Please post your usual rebuttal telling me how clueless I am. It never gets old....

So, how 'bout some pictures showing an example of the dreaded "rust freckle" syndrome. Since you claim it exists, you must have seen and maybe even have an example of it. Maybe one of your "test boards" ? If you have no proof of it, your claim of it existing/occurring is groundless and valueless as well.

If I weren't laying in rehab right now with a freshly installed hip, I would go round up a Winchester 94 stock I refinished for a buddy a long time ago and take a pic of it. Yes, I rubbed it out with steel wool- long before I knew better, and yes it has taken on a kind of leopardskin look (albeit pretty small marks, and not over the whole surface). He likes it the way it is and won't let me re-do it, preferring to wave it in front of me as a reminder that none of us is perfect. (I'll get him sometime, even if I have to dunk a wad of 0000 in his coffee when he's not looking!)

As I recall, I did some rubbing between coats with the 0000, plus 320x paper, too, in addition to definitely rubbing out the final coat with 0000 to de-gloss it.

I won't guarantee that it'll happen 100% of the time- but it will happen.

A friend of mine de-glossed the stock on his bdl Remington with pumice,and it was perfect.
Of course,he is a damn good craftsman,and I would expect no less.
I myself never use steel wool between coats anymore,because it tends to leave pieces behind.
kinda what Sitka said,I think.

Anyone claiming to have your level of experience should know exactly what freckles look like. If you do not the best way for you to figure it out is to actually look for yourself. You should not need me to show you something that obvious. Besides, I have always maintained that no one should believe me because sample boards are so easy to make...

You really don't get it, do you? I've never seen "rust freckles" so how would I know what they look like? Anyone with your level of skill should be able to post a picture of one of your sample boards showing the condition you describe. That way everybody will know (without your telling them) just how right and smart you are. And, at this point, you have maintained correctly.

I could easily produce freckles... but as I almost always say, it is easy and worth doing for yourself so you can look at them under different lighting conditions and see exactly why you should avoid them.

Further, you would never accept the obvious and really need to prove it for yourself.

You should have noticed by now that several others have pointed out the fact they have seen them... Of course your lack of sightings after using steel wool on outdoor finishes means either you really did not do the work claimed or never actually looked but were just spoiling to step into another fight after the last time you proved how gifted you are.

Drivel on little man, drivel on. You're a campfire legend in your own narrow, simple little mind. And don't forget to wipe your chin.

Again, you prove your gift...

And as further proof... Here is a typical example of just how useful your contributions are to the folks here:




Your obvious Google-foo posting is another high point of your "knowledge" base.

Did you know someone can search a complete quoted sentence after you post it and find out what website you took it from? Only takes seconds...

Don't forget to wipe, little man. And yes, it's obvious in your case as well.

Well, atop everything else you can now add liar to your titles and you cannot find a single quote from me stolen from any other site without attribution, period. You, not so much...

The thief:

http://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/5090233/1

Feel free to tell all of the story that you know... not much there, is there?

You guys - Hate to bust up your little pissing contest but it's getting old. Who gives a rat's ass if steel wool makes freckles anyway when there are perfectly good non-ferrous alternatives that do a better job and, by the way, avoid the whole issue.

Point ceded...

The smell of urine is overwhelming.

That said, SD knows his chit as far as I can determine from more limited experience. I used steel wool just once...

As to the original question, to take a high gloss down some, I use rottenstone and mineral oil or linseed oil, as said.

I am of like opinion with Rost, but really, if they are close enough for "flash" to make a difference, they are close enough to shoot.... much ado about virtually nothing.

I just don't like flash....

+1000 on what nighthawk said in his post. Seven pages of discussion/debate/argument goes far beyond adequate. People are individuals and have individualized approaches to doing a job. As long as they are satisfied with the result I see no reason they should be browbeaten and derided by SD and others.

So if someone is satisfied with say a 10MOA benchrest rifle he should give advice to someone looking for say a 1MOA hunting rifle?

There are lots of easy fixes for common problems. Perpetuating problems you do not understand and fighting about it is not doing anyone a favor.

Sorry you feel that amounts to derision and browbeating... and you obviously missed prior threads where certain posters proved they should be asking advice rather than giving it.

I read the entire seven pages of the thread Mr. SD sir, enough to know that your posture was condescending and bullying in regard those with opinions other than yours. It is well past time that you lighten up and recognize that it takes all kinds to make the world go round. The gunsmithing section of this forum was a place that I enjoyed when folks were more civil with each other. There were seldom posts that ran seven pages long that is before you appointed yourself gunsmithing guru in residence. I did not count your posts in this thread but sufice it to say you have more than adequately contributed your knowledge and opinions regarding the topic at hand. Why is it you feel the need to post ad infinitum? Give it up and move on man, most reasonable posters have long ago done so. You need to recognize that others are entitled to opinions other than yours, that's what diversity is all about. Narrowminded insistence that "it's my way or the highway" is just that, not constructive by any means. Do us all a favor and consider these remarks to be rhetorical. This thread is finis, not just my opinion read what some other posters have said. Nighthawk states it pretty concisely. Besides your reply to him was "point ceded", some reason you cannot honor that?

"Besides your reply to him was "point ceded", some reason you cannot honor that?"

And you felt the need to continue it because? And not just once? And I ceded his point about better alternatives should have mooted the issue.

But you failed to answer the posed question... Should those advocating for steelwool be giving advice, especially since the advice given by me was simply to test it for themselves?

I demand nothing of anybody looking to finish anything... but I keep suggesting they test it for themselves. If that is browbeating to you, so be it.

And again you fail to grasp history with the folks above.

Good night Mr. Sitka Deer, will you please turn out the light? It is long past time this thread should be put to bed. Sweet dreams.

Please don't tell me you stayed up until 1:10AM just to be able to say that!

(I got an excuse- my new roomie here at the rehab therapy torture palace is a wet snoring SOB who is guaranteeing yet another sleepless night for me. I would truly love to stuff a wad of 0000 steel wool in his mouth. Hey! There's a good use for the stuff!)

Thank god my hip replacement recovery has been rapid and I can soon leave.

Yet another use for shooting muffs!

Good for you! Seems there can be quite a range in recovery time. The few I've known with hip replacement thought it was the next thing to a miracle.

"Please, show me a single thing I posted that I was wrong on..."

Art... I think it was my first post here on Campfire....

But it wasn't on stock finish. And I haven't caught you out since (13 years).

But I haven't given up hope.