On this Savage 116 I picked up recently.

Actually, the install and adjustment were easy. It is just when I put the stock back on, the trigger releases when I close the bolt. The instructions say that if this happens, to adjust the sear engagement and/or the pull-weight screw. I kept on and on adjusting them (making a mockery of the very precise adjustment procedure that Timney gives) and I still can't cock the rifle with it in the stock. So what gives?

Usually if there is something happening ONLY when the stock is installed - it means something is hitting the stock and has nothing to do with an adjustment of the trigger.

Very often this is the trigger guard but can be other places in the stock that cause it.

I see that the front-end of the trigger guard is pushed down if I don't put the stock bolts screws and jiggle things around until it fires.

If I don't let that end of the trigger guard come down, then it won't cock or won't fire if I put it in cocked.

But what does this mean? What do I have to do to get things to work?

This often happens with trigger swaps. Some inletting black or lipstick (applied to the suspect regions might tell the story.

If it's wood that's touching the trigger, then get out a chainsaw, small triangular file, or gouge/chisel and remove wood until the mechanism clears. If it's metal like the trigger guard, a Dremel grinder or file and do the same in the offending area.

A chainsaw!

Interesting, I never thought about the trigger having a different shape/size than the original trigger; they look close to the same.

Luckily, I just ordered a Dremel tool for another project, so I can put it to work here when it arrives.

I just went through this on my Rem 700 L/A. It turned out the left side of the trigger shoe and bolt release were making contact with the Rem factory trigger guard. I relieved the guard with an abrasive stone. That fixed the problem.

Three out of the four Timney triggers I recently installed on Rem 700's were binding just like Steve_G says.

A few minutes with a file corrected this!!

Ken

No trigger shoe was involved though!

First mistake was a Savage....

Don't wait on the dremel. If using something like that is new to you there is a good chance you'll go to far to fast. Just a word of caution.

Dave.

Ah, refreshing, the voice of experience!

Am I mistaken, or is this happening more frequently? Is it possible Timney made a change that widened the trigger housing?

I just did the lipstick test and lipstick was left on the bushing that the front trigger-guard bolt screws into.

This will be almost impossible to grind on with a file unless I remove it, but should be easy with a Dremel. I'll just have to be very careful with the Dremel, since I'm inexperienced with it.

Of course the whole bushing must come out of the stock, but I'm not sure I want to find out how easy that is.

BTW, that part is not shown on the SavageArms "Parts Finder" diagram.

It appears the trigger block is longer in the front, although I can't *see* the difference by looking at the two.

Regardless of your approach, go slow just clearing a little at a time between testing sessions. One does not want a butcher job.

This shouldn't be this hard!

I used lipstick applied to the front of the trigger block and ground away until lipstick stopped marking the stock and rear bolt-nut. Same problem. I can tighten the back bolt most of the way but when I get toward the end of the range the trigger releases as I shove the bolt forward.

At least I thought the trigger was releasing.

I took a new tack and cocked the bolt and placed it in the stock and began to tighten the rear stock bolt. At first the trigger fired but after a while it didn't. AND, the safety lifts slightly when I press on the trigger.

So I think the sear is cocked but won't release for some reason. Anyone have any ideas?

I hope I am still talking about my experiences with the Timney for the Rem 700. On the ones I found sticking and needing work,they let me know when the bolt release lever/button, would stick in the upward(bolt release) position. Then I realized the trigger itself was also sticking at times on the trigger opening on the trigger guard. Stuff has to be removed or the trigger can stick in the fired position and will not drop back to where it belongs unless all resistance is removed! Then of course, you could feed another round into the chamber with the trigger still pulled and the firing pin fwd.This is all an easy fix, but it takes quite a few tries to get it right. (at least neatly). Also, on a couple of the stocks, wood or composite had to be removed to accommodate the the front of the trigger housing or it would bind on the stock webbing/opening for the trigger assy. Also, I always remove some of the wood or composite after adjusting the trigger on any 700 to keep the adjustment screw from contacting the material that I described above. Of course I always epoxy the adjustment screws after adjusting---always!!!
I hope this long paragraph can shed some light on the original question. Also, it isn't hard to do all of this stuff, and the rewards are worth the work involved!!
Thanks for listening,
Ken
PM me if I am too confusing!!

If all aspects function correctly sans stock, then the culprit is somewhere in the stock, bottom metal, or both.

Yeah, I asked Timney about this and they said "the stock is rubbing the trigger somewhere". Not very helpful and I don't see why a drop-in trigger doesn't fit.

I guess I'll have to let a gunsmith finish this project.