I have bedded quite a few stocks the last few years and am going to bed the recoil lug area on a remington 700 tupperware stock tonight and am out of my normal bedding materials.

I figured since this stock isnt really high end I am going to try using JB Weld as a bedding compound. How will Hornady one shot case lube work as a release agent? Some swear by it but what are your experiences?

Thanks

it worked fine for me.

The one and only stock I stuck, stuck using it. Never, ever had an issue using paste wax. Good luck.

Hornady one shot case lube works great with JB weld. Just make sure you use the case lube and not the one shot gun cleaner/lube. There is a definite difference between the 2... When I'm using Devcon 10110 for glass bedding, I'll use Johnson's paste wax, as it works better for that style of epoxy.

Never tried the one shot, but have used the Imperial sizing wax a fair number of times. The imperial worked just fine with the JB kwick-weld. With the original JB Weld that takes much much longer to set up and cure, the Imperial didn't work well for me.

Paste wax for release agent. Be sure to rough up the inside of the Tupperwear stock before bedding. Epoxy does not adhere to the as-molded plastic well.

I have never used the One Shot. Brownells spray release is great but expensive and the shipping fees too high, over 30 bucks a can by the time you are done. Midway is selling MR312 which I hear works well but is white so it discolors the finished bedding? And the cost about the same. I am trying Srayon MR311 which is "clear" P.T.F.E Dry film. Sky Geek 10 bucks. I like sprays because they are quick, easy touch up, uniform and get in the cracks. Good old Johnson's paste wax or shoe polish is an old standby. Did not mean to hyjack this but always searching for a better cheaper way to get it done.

I have used one shot case lube and regular JB Weld many times with great success. I always give it 2 or 3 applications of one shot to insure enough to not stick.

Well it is all together and drying so we will see how it works. Used about 3 coats of one shot and job weld. Crossing my fingers and hoping it works.

With Tupperware, I like to drill holes so the bedding will have "footing", can't come out. Bedding material sometimes doesn't stick that well to Tupperware.

I like Brownell's Steel Bed, bedded the lug on a M-70 SS Tupperware Classic .375 H&H. It held.

DF

I roughed it up and dremeled some holes so the epoxy can bite to something. I've bedded some Tupperware stocks before but always used accraglas gel and figured I would try something different here. As long as it comes apart I think I will be fine.

I did everything I would normally do while bedding but used some different materials. I was pretty liberal with the one shot so hopefully it all comes apart.

You may pull it early, just when the material is getting hard. Then put it back together and torque it down to cure. That works for me.

DF

It should come apart just fine..

Steel bed is awesome stuff. Some of the hardest bedding compound I've ever used. Excellent for those heavy kickers.

I've bedded several tupperware stocks with both Jb weld and acraglass gel and in my experience JB weld doesn't stick to tupperware as well as the acraglass.

All good advice above. I have done quite a few bedding jobs but never used Hornady One Shot as a release agent. My best results have been when I cleaned the metal parts with acetone first, before applying several coats of release agent. The second comment I will make is to echo what Dirtfarmer said:

You may pull it early, just when the material is getting hard. Then put it back together and torque it down to cure. That works for me.

As soon as the bedding compound has taken a set, I take the works apart. This way, even if the epoxy has gotten into somewhere it shouldn't be you can still take the action out of the stock. If you wait until the epoxy has hardened, you're in big trouble. I have made about every mistake I could in bedding stocks, but never had to cut a stock apart - yet!

well the jb stuck to the Tupperware well with the holes and scoring that I did on the stock and it came right apart with no issues. I think I may have to use this combo again.

I don't like Hornady One Shot, Pam, WD40, Silicone or any spray product that stays wet or leaves a buildup. The wet stuff mixes with the epoxy leading to chipping where ever the epoxy is thin. It also puddles and looks terrible in the bedding job. Same for the dry sprays if they are not buffed. Why not just use Kiwi neutral shoe polish or about any car wax? This leaves a much more professional appearance.

Tightening the action screws before the bedding is fully cured completely defeats the purpose of bedding. It put the action under the exact same stress it had before the bedding job.

If you don't have the correct products on hand I would wait till you do. Beside wasting valuable time you can add the expense of the substitute materials right on to the cost of what you should have used to begin with. JB works good for sealing holes in cast aluminum but it's no where near the structural compressive strength of MarineTex. I do this for a living and just dread some of these DIY projects that we have to remove or repair in order to do it right. This is just bedding but when the Dremel tool shows up that rarely ends well.

Good deal man. I've never had issues with the combo either. Like I said earlier though, I prefer the Devcon 10110 and Johnson's paste wax, but you can't find the Devcon 10110 at the LGS in my area.

It's very apparent you've never used Hornady one shot case lube, as it does not "stay wet"... Come back after you've actually used the stuff and let us know how you really feel... Hint..

Sounds like I will have to try One Shot. Does anyone know what the actual no stick lube in it is?

I'm pretty sure I'm the only person that still uses bedding compound and release agent when bedding their rifle.

JFC.




Dave

+1

Me, too...

DF

One Shot dries and leaves a waxy residue behind...........

Hired gun gave you good advice on not torquing the action. It's possible to introduce deflection in the stock or preload the action less than perfect. You can pull it.....but let it do its job before you get on a wrench.

Keep car wax away from anything you might want to apply any paint or finish to later... including more epoxy. The silicone will give you fits in too many cases.

There is very little difference in the compression strengths of various epoxies and assuming you are talking about one of the JB products with powdered metal, they actually are quite a bit stronger in compression than Marine-Tex. And only Marine-Tex Gray should ever be used for bedding.

Sitka, Thanks for the tips. Where can I read up on the compressive strength properties of the JB Weld products?

I can't find any of that info on their site.

I'm always up for learning stuff. I spend a good portion of every day doing research of one kind or another.

Hint:

degrease parts twice with brake cleaner or starting fluid.

Apply two coats of release agent, best money you could ever spend, and I do foot the bill for the spray can. I started using the spray accra release after I stuck a new BDL stock on my 7 Mag in 1980 using PAM...never again. I went to wax, but it is hard to get it into all the knooks and crannies, chamber, lug recess that I like to have coated.

So, I buy the brownell's spray accra release, wash it off with brake cleaner when I am done. NEVER worry about any bedding compound sticking to anything...ever. I let the rifle set up for 7 days before I touch it.

Marine Tex, Bisonite, or Devcon for me.

You guys should do some research on stress free bedding.

How in the world would you get bedding compound into those areas??? I've only been doing this for 18+ years but never had that issue before..



Amen, brother...

Unless i run out in Kotzebue. Then JBWeld... Just restocked my little Brownell's kit from my shop kit here in Soldotna. Spring Break.. varicose vein surgery... what could be better?

+1 on Bisonite. A magnet will stick to it, you can't get more durable than that...
Johnsons paste wax, when use correctly nothing will stick to it.

Synthetic stock molds are often sprayed with a release agent so they'll come out of the mold cleanly. Clean the inletting thoroughly and giving it some tooth by rough sanding, drilling and/or cutting some light grooves helps too.

If you need a quick release agent try Kiwi Neutral Shoe Polish. Cheap and you can buy it just about anywhere.

Like others here, I use Brownells Acraglass Release spray. Never a doubt about whether it will work or not...ever. No big deal to me about the cost. It's worth it.

I use Marine Tex (at any boat dealer) to bed with for the last 30 years, at the advice of several accuracy gunsmiths. It works great and is as strong as any product on the market, or stronger.