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I have bedded quite a few stocks the last few years and am going to bed the recoil lug area on a remington 700 tupperware stock tonight and am out of my normal bedding materials.
I figured since this stock isnt really high end I am going to try using JB Weld as a bedding compound. How will Hornady one shot case lube work as a release agent? Some swear by it but what are your experiences?
Thanks
Last edited by Beaudry; 03/09/17.
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The one and only stock I stuck, stuck using it. Never, ever had an issue using paste wax. Good luck.
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Get off my lawn.
FJB
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Campfire 'Bwana
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I have bedded quite a few stocks the last few years and am going to bed the recoil lug area on a remington 700 tupperware stock tonight and am out of my normal bedding materials.
I figured since this stock isnt really high end I am going to try using JB Weld as a bedding compound. How will Hornady one shot case lube work as a release agent? Some swear by it but what are your experiences?
Thanks Hornady one shot case lube works great with JB weld. Just make sure you use the case lube and not the one shot gun cleaner/lube. There is a definite difference between the 2... When I'm using Devcon 10110 for glass bedding, I'll use Johnson's paste wax, as it works better for that style of epoxy.
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style. You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole. BSA MAGA
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Never tried the one shot, but have used the Imperial sizing wax a fair number of times. The imperial worked just fine with the JB kwick-weld. With the original JB Weld that takes much much longer to set up and cure, the Imperial didn't work well for me.
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Paste wax for release agent. Be sure to rough up the inside of the Tupperwear stock before bedding. Epoxy does not adhere to the as-molded plastic well.
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I have never used the One Shot. Brownells spray release is great but expensive and the shipping fees too high, over 30 bucks a can by the time you are done. Midway is selling MR312 which I hear works well but is white so it discolors the finished bedding? And the cost about the same. I am trying Srayon MR311 which is "clear" P.T.F.E Dry film. Sky Geek 10 bucks. I like sprays because they are quick, easy touch up, uniform and get in the cracks. Good old Johnson's paste wax or shoe polish is an old standby. Did not mean to hyjack this but always searching for a better cheaper way to get it done.
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I have used one shot case lube and regular JB Weld many times with great success. I always give it 2 or 3 applications of one shot to insure enough to not stick.
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Well it is all together and drying so we will see how it works. Used about 3 coats of one shot and job weld. Crossing my fingers and hoping it works.
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Campfire 'Bwana
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With Tupperware, I like to drill holes so the bedding will have "footing", can't come out. Bedding material sometimes doesn't stick that well to Tupperware.
I like Brownell's Steel Bed, bedded the lug on a M-70 SS Tupperware Classic .375 H&H. It held.
DF
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I roughed it up and dremeled some holes so the epoxy can bite to something. I've bedded some Tupperware stocks before but always used accraglas gel and figured I would try something different here. As long as it comes apart I think I will be fine.
I did everything I would normally do while bedding but used some different materials. I was pretty liberal with the one shot so hopefully it all comes apart.
Last edited by Beaudry; 03/10/17.
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Campfire 'Bwana
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You may pull it early, just when the material is getting hard. Then put it back together and torque it down to cure. That works for me.
DF
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Campfire 'Bwana
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I roughed it up and dremeled some holes so the epoxy can bite to something. I've bedded some Tupperware stocks before but always used accraglas gel and figured I would try something different here. As long as it comes apart I think I will be fine.
I did everything I would normally do while bedding but used some different materials. I was pretty liberal with the one shot so hopefully it all comes apart. It should come apart just fine..
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style. You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole. BSA MAGA
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Campfire 'Bwana
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With Tupperware, I like to drill holes so the bedding will have "footing", can't come out. Bedding material sometimes doesn't stick that well to Tupperware.
I like Brownell's Steel Bed, bedded the lug on a M-70 SS Tupperware Classic .375 H&H. It held.
DF Steel bed is awesome stuff. Some of the hardest bedding compound I've ever used. Excellent for those heavy kickers.
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style. You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole. BSA MAGA
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I have bedded quite a few stocks the last few years and am going to bed the recoil lug area on a remington 700 tupperware stock tonight and am out of my normal bedding materials.
I figured since this stock isnt really high end I am going to try using JB Weld as a bedding compound. How will Hornady one shot case lube work as a release agent? Some swear by it but what are your experiences?
Thanks I've bedded several tupperware stocks with both Jb weld and acraglass gel and in my experience JB weld doesn't stick to tupperware as well as the acraglass.
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All good advice above. I have done quite a few bedding jobs but never used Hornady One Shot as a release agent. My best results have been when I cleaned the metal parts with acetone first, before applying several coats of release agent. The second comment I will make is to echo what Dirtfarmer said:
You may pull it early, just when the material is getting hard. Then put it back together and torque it down to cure. That works for me.
As soon as the bedding compound has taken a set, I take the works apart. This way, even if the epoxy has gotten into somewhere it shouldn't be you can still take the action out of the stock. If you wait until the epoxy has hardened, you're in big trouble. I have made about every mistake I could in bedding stocks, but never had to cut a stock apart - yet!
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well the jb stuck to the Tupperware well with the holes and scoring that I did on the stock and it came right apart with no issues. I think I may have to use this combo again.
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I don't like Hornady One Shot, Pam, WD40, Silicone or any spray product that stays wet or leaves a buildup. The wet stuff mixes with the epoxy leading to chipping where ever the epoxy is thin. It also puddles and looks terrible in the bedding job. Same for the dry sprays if they are not buffed. Why not just use Kiwi neutral shoe polish or about any car wax? This leaves a much more professional appearance.
Tightening the action screws before the bedding is fully cured completely defeats the purpose of bedding. It put the action under the exact same stress it had before the bedding job.
If you don't have the correct products on hand I would wait till you do. Beside wasting valuable time you can add the expense of the substitute materials right on to the cost of what you should have used to begin with. JB works good for sealing holes in cast aluminum but it's no where near the structural compressive strength of MarineTex. I do this for a living and just dread some of these DIY projects that we have to remove or repair in order to do it right. This is just bedding but when the Dremel tool shows up that rarely ends well.
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Campfire 'Bwana
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well the jb stuck to the Tupperware well with the holes and scoring that I did on the stock and it came right apart with no issues. I think I may have to use this combo again. Good deal man. I've never had issues with the combo either. Like I said earlier though, I prefer the Devcon 10110 and Johnson's paste wax, but you can't find the Devcon 10110 at the LGS in my area.
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style. You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole. BSA MAGA
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Campfire 'Bwana
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Campfire 'Bwana
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I don't like Hornady One Shot, Pam, WD40, Silicone or any spray product that stays wet or leaves a buildup. The wet stuff mixes with the epoxy leading to chipping where ever the epoxy is thin. It also puddles and looks terrible in the bedding job. Same for the dry sprays if they are not buffed. Why not just use Kiwi neutral shoe polish or about any car wax? This leaves a much more professional appearance.
Tightening the action screws before the bedding is fully cured completely defeats the purpose of bedding. It put the action under the exact same stress it had before the bedding job.
If you don't have the correct products on hand I would wait till you do. Beside wasting valuable time you can add the expense of the substitute materials right on to the cost of what you should have used to begin with. JB works good for sealing holes in cast aluminum but it's no where near the structural compressive strength of MarineTex. I do this for a living and just dread some of these DIY projects that we have to remove or repair in order to do it right. This is just bedding but when the Dremel tool shows up that rarely ends well. It's very apparent you've never used Hornady one shot case lube, as it does not "stay wet"... Come back after you've actually used the stuff and let us know how you really feel... Hint.. 
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style. You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole. BSA MAGA
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