I recently picked up a tikka boar hunter in 338 win mag. I found a deal on it that I couldn’t pass up. I’m not a huge fan of the t3 synthetic stock and would like to replace it with something better.

I’ve heard mixed reviews on the B&C Medalist. And would like to stay with a tradition low profile stock to keep the iron sights usable.

What are you all using on your T3s?

Years ago my brother bought me a B&C Medalist for one of my T3s, so I swapped out the factory stock. It didn’t shoot or handle any better. It’s the only Tikka I have not in the factory stock.




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I like the simplicity of the factory stock. It just works without a lot of fuss. Some guys complain that they don't fit them well or have poor ergo's, but I find just the opposite to be true. To each their own. I do have one B&C on my new 22-250 and I like the stock, but its much heavier than the factory stock. For the kind of shooting I want to do with the rifle, that is a good thing..


Beretzs is one that doesn't like the factory stock. However, he replaced that stock with a fine looking Mcmillan and still ended up selling the rifle and Mcmillan?? I believe he did say he likes the CTR stock though:


Similar to the varmint style stock that I really like. What I recently did to one of my favorite rifles is change it up with a newer Tikka T3x stock that is slightly textured. I really like the different color:


This picture doesn't really do the rifle or stock justice though. It actually looks and feels great.. It was a "new" take off that I purchased on ebay for $79 a couple weeks ago. I'd probably go that route if I were the OP..

Edit T3, not T3x

Shoot, I restocked 3 with the same Sako Classics..



Tikkas are great rifles, I just like Model 70 and similar for hunting.

I do like my CTR 223 though. Great shooting gun and fun as hell to burn gunpowder.

Other than the B&C, there's AG Composites Privateer and Alpine Hunter, which must be ordered thru a dealer and is a 16 week wait - give or take, and the Mesa Precision Arms Attitude The MPAs are a vertical grip stock. They take 6-8 weeks to arrive, given my experience.

A couple of us here have got our hands on the AG Privateer stock. Nice stock, but in my case, the jury is still out. Had/have some issues with the inlet and the use of aftermarket bottom metal that I haven't quite ironed out.

Very nice rifles Scotty. I like my model 70's as well, but haven't found any flies on the Tikka for a straight up great hunting rifle.

IMO changing to a B&C is a lateral move. No better, no worse, but the B&C is about 1/2 lb heavier and will empty your wallet by a little over $300. For what I do I'd much rather just use the factory stock. They are one of, if not the best plastic stocks out there.

Well said.

How does the integrated recoil lug in the B&C stock work out. Does it work better than the two piece recoil lug setup in the tikka stock?

Manners just came out with some exclusive T3 stocks, check them out.

Manners Hunting Stocks

Help me understand what you mean when you say two piece recoil lug setup?

My Tikkas only have one recoil lug, they fit into a tight slot in the stock. They are removable.

The B&C stock has the recoil lug molded into the stock. Not removable.

The rifle didn’t shoot any better after swapping the stock to the B&C. I shot it quite a bit before the swap.

Didn’t shoot any worse, either, but if you’re wanting to make a switch for the potential of better shooting, look elsewhere.





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The B&C stock I have has the aluminum bedding block. The integrated recoil lug is not much different than the factory removable recoil lug of the T3/T3x. Except the integrated lug is set to a desired height. I have used my stock on 2 different rifles in the last month. It has worked out great for both rifles. Accuracy/precision is great and consistent. I actually skim bedded my stock/action for slightly better accuracy. Probably not as necessary on the B&C as it is with the factory stock. A lot of guys don't believe in glass bedding the Tikka stock, but it does help for maintaining tighter groups when you are shooting more shots per group. B&C:


Factory CTR after glass bedding:


They look similar in the pics. What I like to do is glass bed the stock so the recoil lug stays in place and set to the optimum height for each rifle. Over time the factory lug will slip further into the stock, if you do not stop it from doing so. I choose to glass it in, so it stays consistent over time. ..

I had been referring to the action and recoil lug being two different pieces. I wonder if the B&C would handle the recoil of the 338 better than the separate lug in the factory stock

Nope I agree. Great hunting rifles and perfectly functional. I just never saw me picking one of them over an equally as accurate 70.

I sure like my Tikka SL/McMillan Hunters Edge Combo. Its as nice of a hunting rig as many custom builds!!

Hard to argue with that. I think oregonmuley posted a pic of a Mcmillan similar to the one you just sold? I damn near bought that stock from you buddy.. I'm lucky I don't mind the factory plastic stock though. Saves on the pocket book.

I hunted with them a little…

This rifle is very nice!

Cool pic man. You know they make those ski do's in adult size too..

HA! I know, I know, but that is all my buddy had and those old sleds might not be fast but they get you up the trail and they are easy to move around should they get caught in a drift.



The big ones aren’t quite as easy to muscle around.

Was thinking the exact same thing . . . . .

I just thought Scotty was like Paul Bunyon... ha ha..

My 7mm Rem Mag recoil lug hasn’t been an issue. I imagine the .338 kicks a bit more.

You can buy aftermarket recoil lugs.

Stainless baby:


However, I think he was wondering about the aluminum lug on the B&C stock. Mine was on a 204 and now on a 22-250. The funny thing about the old T3 is the Aluminum recoil lug did not hold up well on even the 22-250. I have one as proof. Actually bought that one from a guy that said it didn't shoot well anymore. I'm a di ck, I knew the aluminum recoil lug was shot, so I bought it, replaced it with a stainless lug, glassed and continued to shoot like this:



That rifle ^^^^^cost me $500 and is a varmint model.. It shoots damn well now. Had the same thing happen with my second CTR I bought. The owner bragged about how good it shot at 300 yards, but he only shot 3 shot groups. I found once I started putting more than 5 shots downrange, groups would open up:


The CTR has a steel recoil lug, but this one was kind of torn up and wobbly inside the inletting of the action and stock. When things are loose, your rifle isn't going to shoot well. Just how it is


You can see where the action was eating into the steel lug. The aluminum one on my 22-250 varmint was much worse. After bedding:

Dropped one out of the group on the right. Rifle shoots much better after replacing the original lug with a stainless one. The stainless one fits very tight and I don't have to worry about it wearing out too soon.. I don't shoot this second CTR much, as my first one is the one I normally use, but I had them both out yesterday testing a new bi-bod:


The last time out with my #2 CTR, was a while ago, but did not do too bad at 600:


It holds it's own..

All my groups are eleventeen shots. They just look like three because the other shots go through the same holes.




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On a "hunting" rifle, it really doesn't matter. I shoot a lot of comps, so my CTR's especially need to be able to hold multiple shots on target, at long range, without deviation. Then when I miss, I only have myself to blame because I know what my rifle is capable of. Was just at the range with my buddy that just went though SWAT training. We were shooting one of my new rifles and we were tagging the small targets (3", so not real small) at 400 yards:


even with the new Ruger m77 mk2 300 RSAUM. Just put that in a different stock, but it's shooting pretty fn good. Not Tikka good, but good enough to slay elk at 600...

All of my Tikkas are finely-tuned target rifles capable of quarter-minute accuracy at 1,000 yards as long as I do my part.

Sure they are.. You have said on many occasions that your Tikka's aren't even glass bedded. However, there are a lot of guys here that think their hunting rifles are just that. One recently said his was exactly .457 moa. or something to that effect. Still wondering how he came to that exact figure??

Come on, man, I threw you a hanging curveball over the plate with the “as long as I do my part” statement.





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BSA - can you post any more pics of the bedding on the Tikka. I'm a little unclear on exactly what you bedded?

Thanks,

Jeff

I purchased a B&C for a T3. It appeared something was machined improperly in the aluminum or the stock was molded at an angle. The barrel was pushed to one side of the channel. For $340+ shipping, I sent the damn thing back. I do not recommend the B&Cs anymore. That isn't the first sub-par stock I've had from them.

Hi buddy. Sorry for the late response. I was in Washington at a gunshow, selling and trading a few things. I've answered other members here regarding pictures of the bedding work and responded to PM's. Also answered your pm. These Tikka's are very much different than the typical model 70's I normally work on. There is a bit more to them as far as what I'll do to wring them out. As you know, there are your naysayers here that think their rifles shoot good enough as is, or maybe as good as mine, but I know that is laughable. In a mechanical aspect, they are not up to snuff for how I shoot, but yes they will work just fine as a hunting rifle is concerned. Some guys don't shoot the way I do either. In every competition I shoot in, you are going to be sending 10 ore more shots downrange in a string. This does not matter if it is paper targets or steel silhouettes and you are always going to have to shoot against the clock. You can't just sit there and wait for 5 minutes for your barrel to cool between shots. When guys say they do this scidt, I just laugh. That is not the "real world", sorry guys. So I need my rifles to perform to a certain level. Furthermore, I'm shooting against guys that don't fu ck around:

I'll share with you a cool before and after pic of what I call "CTR 1". I call it that because I have 2 identical CTR rifles chambered in 6.5 Creedmire.. It's kind of my baby, because I've had it longer than the other one. It's slightly more tricked out, but still retains the bone stock look.. So, here's how it shot after glass bedding and new stainless recoil lug set in place:


Now, after a little tweaking:

(Warning, this is not going to help all rifles: Some do not like bedding under the chamber, but I felt the barrel may need a little more support). It worked in the case of my CTR 1:


Groups slightly edge out the other groups I was getting. By a small degree, but I'll take it.. Also, as for posting a lot of pics of my Tikka bedding work. I probably won't do that. I gladly answer and send pics to guys that ask for them in PM's, because there are a lot of naysayers here for some reason. They get their panties in a wad... I post pics of my model 70's glass bedding jobs and have tutorial threads on the subject, but those rifles have been around for nearly 100 years. The Tikka's are a little more proprietary when it comes to stock bedding.. As with all of these systems, a little mechanical knowledge goes a long ways.... I'll just leave it at that..

Only 10 shots?

Good looking work BSA! I've painted a bunch of stocks for people and know exactly what you're doing with that recoil lug. I've seen several that look like a beaver chewed the lug. Most is just carelessness putting the action and stock back together. I'm currently down to one Tikka, but when I put the action back in the stock I put the action in my lap upside down, then lower the stock onto it. This way you have the lighter part in hand and can better feel things line up before starting to screw them together.