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I got to wondering why it would not work better than grease on my inline's breech plug and its nipple. The bottle I have says heat resistant to 2000* . I will just clean any extra off with carbon choke cleaner. Any experience pro or con will be greatly appreciated.
I use it on my Winchester Apex. A little messy if you use to much but works well.
I use it on my Knight kp1, have from the get go. As Whelenut said its a little messy, but get the job done!
Good to know what's the most shoots you take before clean in a day. sighting in testing bullets ect.
Anti seize is all I use on my T/C breech plugs and the screw in tubes on my shotguns. Works fine.
I use Blu Moly on mine. Not worth taking a chance sticking a breech plug.
I use the Knight anti-sieze on my Ultra-Lite, even though the BH209 people say it's not necessary. Why take a chance? Teflon tape might work as well. With BP and especially 777, NOT using it would just lead to heartache.
Not ever having messed with an inline in my life (and not likely to ever do that), I can't speak to the practicality of using anti-sieze but it sure sounds like a good idea. On the side lock builds I have done I slathered the threads of breech plugs with anti-sieze even though it's unlikely they'll ever be removed, as much for the anti-corrosion aspect as anything else.
I went to the Dark Side when using irons in the woods got too iffy for me. Scoping most sidelocks is offensive to my gentle spirit. The opportunities I get these days are well within PRB range (bow range really), but the scope lets me aim without those pesky glasses. Actually, a good inline is probably a pretty fair general purpose hunting rifle for most of us in the East, especially in a place like MD, where it's legal just about everywhere.

I started using a ML in the '70s when I was hunting in Charles County and the other boys were using A5's with and without the Buck Special barrels for the most part. My .50 TC Hawken would outshoot most of the smoothbore slug guns- for one shot. Alas, I wasn't much of a deer hunter in those days and squandered what was probably my best chance at killing some really good bucks. Now I'm struggling just to make meat on WV public land.

Sorry for the highjack, OP.
When I first got my TC Omega I used the Super Lube teflon grease that was recommended by TC but it doesn't work very well. Shooting 777 the breech plug would often require some extra effort to break the breach plug loose. Not good.

I switched to a light coating of grease on the threads and a couple of wraps of generic teflon tape and problem solved. The breech plug comes out as easy (same torque) as it goes in. I'm now shooting BH209 and even with 25 shots there's no problems unscrewing the breech plug.

I like and use anti-seize, for other applications, but it's messy. IMO, teflon tape and grease is easier to clean up than anti-sieze.

FWIW, I use a 16 gauge bronze brush to clean the barrel threads.

I am pretty much a newb on the MZ thing, but picked up a T/C Omega last year. I bought and use Gorrila Grease. No problems with this stuff.
I am new to the muzzle loader as well. Killed elk with everything else and the itch has struck to use a muzzle loader.
White lithium based grease works very well. The Teflon tape also works well but I dob a touch of grease on top of it just for insurance. Anti-seize is definitely messy and spreads all over the place. The grease is much more controllable and easy to clean.
Have used anti seize for years without any problems,so do not see a need to change. I think this falls under the "there's more than one way to skin a cat" doctrine.
I have been using the same 1/2 ounce tube of anti seize for 20 years. I only use a smidge. To remove the plug I always start brushing the barrel with soapy water first. That breaks most of the black powder fouling holding the plug in place. Same said for the vent liner in a flintlock, still very hard to remove with anti seize unless you soak in soapy water first. Then it is a breeze.
Originally Posted by Pappy348
I use the Knight anti-sieze on my Ultra-Lite, even though the BH209 people say it's not necessary. Why take a chance? Teflon tape might work as well. With BP and especially 777, NOT using it would just lead to heartache.


The tape will work perfectly on that rifle.

I don't use anti-sieze on any BPs as I have not found it necessary. I guess it can't hurt and obviously people are doing it with no isues. I will agree, its messier to clean up.
I use either tape or breechplug grease - depending on the rifle. I have shot over 50 shots with a greased breech plug in one of my MK-85's using pyrodex. The plug came right out. Have not shot that many with T7, odds are you would need to re-grease about half that many to avoid an issue.

I do put a tiny dab of anti-sieze on my ventliner in my BP. Probably wouldn't hurt on a nipple, but I've never done it.
Originally Posted by shawlerbrook
Have used anti seize for years without any problems,so do not see a need to change. I think this falls under the "there's more than one way to skin a cat" doctrine.


You bet! smile I never thought the tape would work as good as it does.
I use Gorilla Grease also in my Omega and Firehawk. I've gone at least 30 shots in a range session when trying different loads or adjusting sights before cleaning. No problems removing the plug. I think it's more the time it sits dirty than the number of shots fired that causes plugs to seize.
Yes, yez, yes on the anti seize! Been using it since I started with the muzzleloader about ten years ago. Never had a problem at all. Only problem I ever had was forgetting to put it back on the breach plug once because I was talking to my buddy and my head went up my azz. I shot a few more shots to confirm a zero. Went to take that plug out and thought I was gonna bust a gut until if finally came loose and I realized what I did. Glad there was still some residue there or I may have had a real problem. Never ever did that again. Also, use it on all my choke tubes as well.
Just applied a light coat over the threads of the nipple and the breech plug. Thanks to all that have responded.
I'll have to try the tape next time as the grease collects crud. I've got some pretty yellow stuff that's gas-rated.
I use just a touch of STP Oil Treatment on the plug and run it around the threads with my finger.

Seems to work well so far.

Dan
Pappy, the yellow tape is the thicker of the three most common colors. White is thinnest. Your plug might be too tight using the yellow, otherwise it should be fine.

[Linked Image]

Mike Peterson improved upon my method slightly when he discovered that overlapping the powder end of the plug a bit, then folding the excess neatly over the "lip" of the plug would provide better sealing with many plugs. I'll "borrow" Mike's picture which might better show his idea...

[Linked Image]

Originally Posted by MuskegMan

I am pretty much a newb on the MZ thing, but picked up a T/C Omega last year. I bought and use Gorrila Grease. No problems with this stuff.
+1 gorrila grease
Got lotsa white too. Thanks.
i've never had any problems getting my breechplugs out. i don't use anything on them.
You must be one of those crazy guys that cleans your guns. What a wild idea!
I use silicone grease on mine but I clean it everyday that I shoot it and leave the breech plug out when stored.
yes i do clean them often,killed a doe yesterday with my 45cal.hunted this morning for the last time with my ml'ers so i cleaned them all about 3 hours ago.

2 of my guns have speed breech.they come out by hand.
A short list of things that I wished I knew 35 years ago, when I started hunting with a muzzleloader.

1. teflon tape on the breechplug....no grease
2. using "P" pyrodex instead of "R/S" pryodex
3. hot shot nipples
4. RWS #11 caps
5. fouling just the chamber of the gun, using a patch on the ramrod, set to the seating depth, and firing a few caps.
6. XS ghost ring peep sights
7. Swabbing with a windex soaked patch, before leaving the range, to make final cleanup easier at the house.

Now, I've become accustomed to boring accuracy and instant ignitions....no matter the weather conditions, including wet or subzero temps, here in Idaho.

Most of this I've gleaned off muzzleloader forums, over the past 5 or 6 years....paying CLOSE attention to ANYTHING written by "IDAHORON" or "Doc White". Proving you are never too old learn something(s) new!

Andy3



You'd be crazy not to use anti-seize, or something similar on anything with threads that comes into contact with the powder charge on any muzzleloader...just my opinion.

To not do so is like marrying a stripper just to see what happens.

As much as I love strippers, sir you are right. LOL
Thank you for sharing. The drying the chamber I would have never thought of. I have an inline that is made to use musket caps I can not find a #11 nipple replacement and not sure one exists. In your experience is the musket cap a deal breaker and I should get a different gun.
Musket caps are fine IF you can find something other than CCI "For Reenactment Use" marked caps. RWS are good. What inline do you have? Good chance folks here could help locate a #11 nipple for you.
I have a, Traditions Strike Fire. I have a couple tins of RWS caps. Never even thought about it being difficult to change to #11 when I bought it.
If you already have RWS caps you're golden. There's no advantage to going to #11s unless you can't find good (RWS) musket caps.
Originally Posted by Andy3
A short list of things that I wished I knew 35 years ago, when I started hunting with a muzzleloader.

1. teflon tape on the breechplug....no grease
2. using "P" pyrodex instead of "R/S" pryodex
3. hot shot nipples
4. RWS #11 caps
5. fouling just the chamber of the gun, using a patch on the ramrod, set to the seating depth, and firing a few caps.
6. XS ghost ring peep sights
7. Swabbing with a windex soaked patch, before leaving the range, to make final cleanup easier at the house.

Now, I've become accustomed to boring accuracy and instant ignitions....no matter the weather conditions, including wet or subzero temps, here in Idaho.

Most of this I've gleaned off muzzleloader forums, over the past 5 or 6 years....paying CLOSE attention to ANYTHING written by "IDAHORON" or "Doc White". Proving you are never too old learn something(s) new!

Andy3





I use car washer fluid with a few drops of dish washing solution. It does not freeze and it seems to work wonders with cleaning up.
Not only have I found that RWS #11 caps have the most fire, they are pretty much waterproof. I dropped 3 of them in a cup of water the evening before going to the range. After soaking for 14 hours, 2 of the 3 went off.
Andy3
I use White's Blue Grease on all my Breech Plugs
Originally Posted by kciH
You'd be crazy not to use anti-seize, or something similar on anything with threads that comes into contact with the powder charge on any muzzleloader...just my opinion.

To not do so is like marrying a stripper just to see what happens.



That is a classic.
i've used T/C gorilla grease for about 15 years with no problems ever. breech plug and touch hole threads both.
Choke tube grease works too...
The only time I have my breech plug in is when I'm hunting or shooting. If you do what I do you never have to worry about seizing. Cheers!
Not true at all. What powder do you use? What rifle are you shooting?
777 bone collector .50
777 is like hens teeth around here . Trying some ff and the Nosler bt 300 this morning.
Been using anti-seize for 25 years, no problems
Ive got a good friend who switched from 777 to blackhorn 209. He says its much cleaner. I just have so damn much 777 i am not going to change until its gone.
Your Bone Collector plug design is the reason you can get away with not using anything. That situation won't apply to any rifle with a more conventional breech plug.
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