Opinions on mixing CR10 copper solvent w/ Kanno Kroil?
Reason is that using CR10, pushing dry patches through bore to remove the CR10 the motion feels "sticky" as I push the patch through.
I do not feel this sticky resistance of the patched jag when using a solvent like Hoppes #9. Or if the patch is oiled. Feels smooth and slick.
Therefore, if adding Kroil to the CR10 this might allow the great copper removal the CR10 has, while allowing the smooth passage of a dry patch when removing the solvent.
Nuts? Does this make sense?

I wouldn't add the Kroil to the CR10, Kroil is a penetrating oil and not as good a lubricant as some other oils.
CR10 has so much ammonia and other nasty stuff in it that causes the patch to be sticky .
When I used CR10, I used to push a lubed patch of G96 through the bore afterwards, but put up with the tight patches when first taking out the CR10.

Cat

When you're done with CR-10 you could just run a patch with Hoppes or similar and then run your final dry patches. I use Butch's Bore Shine first then follow up with CR-10, and always get extra copper with CR-10, but it is smelly.

I push a patch soaked with kroil down the tube and allow to sit for 30 to 60 min. Kroil will actually loosen the fouling.
I then run a couple of dry patches down the tube. Then run a couple with CR10 and allow to sit for 10 min. I don't seem to get the stickies that you mention.

Try just running a few soaked patches of Kroil, refresh after 60 min. let sit 2 hours total. If copper is in there the patch will come out green.

I used to buy Kroil by the gallon for penetrating oil and find it useful - we often cut Kroil with cheaper kerosene/diesel for a carrier. There are some known good combinations with Kroil for gun maintenance. Still Kroil has been associated with some issues with precision flats so I think it has some active ingredients. Anything strong enough to do the job is likely strong enough to do some damage abused.

Given that modern gun cleaning, lubricating and protecting combinations are a witches brew of active ingredients I do fear and I do mean fear ad hoc combinations - much like mixing household cleansers that contain ammonia and chlorine bleach to give phosgene I fear unknown combinations (ammonia combinations for copper removal and chlorinated hydrocarbons in assorted spray cleaners and scrubbers).

Moreover I believe it is possible to do nasty things to a barrel as well as potentially to the lungs by leaving a little bit of one product in the barrel followed by a wet mop or spray of another product with an incompatible active ingredient(s).

Mostly I stick with a family of products in the hope the maker has tested combinations or in the alternative wait, drain, dry patch between products as I feel appropriate.

Mostly I'll leave the fancy cleaning combinations - Mercury Quicksilver was once a popular carbon cleaner - to folks with real time pressure between stages. Myself I'll let a safe cleaner soak a while even overnight (some copper cleaners I won't leave unattended though) and let the chemical do the work instead of scrubbing. And I do have a Hawkeye borescope looking forward to the day Harbor Freight has a video display at half the Gradient price.

PLUS 1000

Clark,

Good post!

When I read this post my first thought was, Ramblings and musing's of lunacy.....

Then PLUS1000... then Good Post...

Then it turned into Comedy

NO !!!!!!!!!!!

Mixing CR10 with Kroil is like mixing Republicans with Democrats

It is hard enough to get them to do anything alone...mix them together and nothing good happens !!!!!!!!!

This works with Shooters Choice.

Marvel Mystery Oil


Glenn

Thanks for the feedback guys.
The sticky patch is what I wonder about, why this happens. Shooters choice copper solvent also gives me a similar sticky patch. Not as noticable as CR10 though.

When I have lots of time, days, I'll let #9 in a bore for 12+ hours to remove copper. This works good for me, but slowwwwwww.

I do the JB too, then patch w/#9 to clean up bore.

I agree with the post above to be careful mixing concoctions that could be caustic and might etch metal.

Might be I should call Barnes and ask them about the sticky patch w/CR10.

Spray Wipeout in and let sit overnight.Run a half dozen patches through the next day and the barrel is clean.It just does not get much simpler than that.Just did that on my 475 Linebaugh that was so leaded you could not see the grooves in the barrel.Guess I need gas checks.

This is the way I'd go--or with one of the Montana X-Treme cleaners. Don't see any reason to dink around with "maybe" mixes when so many of today's products already combine so many great characteristics.

bore tech eliminator

Don't let any ammonia based product dry in the bore, that's when it can etch the barrel. If you feel the need to leave it refresh with wet patches every half hour or whenever it is needed to keep it wet.

I do mix Kroil & Shooters choice but that mix has been used by bench rest shooters for a long time with no adverse affects.

Just need to use up all my old cleaning products so I can join the modern world with the foam cleaners.