The reason I ask, is because I've thought about selling my action and going full custom, but even after I have it blueprinted, I still won't have that much in it.

I crunched the numbers today, and with the investment I have in the action now, including the PTG one piece bolt, and the cost to have it blueprinted, I will still have under $500 in it.

By all means use it then. If the work is done properly you will have a great action. You could even spring for a side bolt release and still be ahead.

If it's been that cheap for you, keep it!!

I have taken delivery on two full custom Remington clones despite having several Rem 700's in the safe. I felt it was better money spent to go with custom that was built right from the start.

I am glad I did it. Whether you choose a full custom action or tightening up your own, you'll have a predictable quality shooting iron. Predictability is an invaluable asset.

I have a blueprinted 700 that shoots really well.

It can't touch my Stiller though.

But for a hunting/play rifle you don't even need a blueprinted action. For competition no hunting action, blueprinted or no, will be able to compete as well a custom.

There might be some advantage to a one-piece bolt if you are worried about the bolt handle falling off. Not a worry to me, but I do also have a one-piece PTG bolt. It's pretty nice, not sure I'd pay the money for another one.

If I were on a budget for a hunting rifle I'd get a 70/700/Montana or whatever and get a barrel for it. The smith will probably face the action, pretty standard. If I had no budget I would get a Borden Timberline as a starting point.

I am a convert to custom actions. I also move in and out of rifles on occasion. A "blueprinted" 700 to me does not really have greater trade value than a stock 700 action. Blueprinted means something different to everyone. If I was not ever planning to sell the rifle, a 700 action can work just fine. A great trigger probably is more important to accuracy than a custom action over a worked over 700.

I've been thinking more about what bench shooting improvements can be actually observed in the field with a rifle in a "standard" hunting configuration.

Late yesterday I was shooting a factory 700 in 308 that I've had over ten years now. It's an LVSF barreled action in a McMillan 700 Classic stock. The one action modification is I had the bolt lugs lightly lapped to even up their contact a bit. The factory barrel has seen over 3000 firings.

The load I was shooting used thrown charges of long stick IMR4064, straight from the measure into the cases. I mounted/zeroed a Vari-X III 3.5-10x40, and used it set to 6x.

Despite the failing light of the day, with a heavy brush and tree line reducing the remaining light coming from the west, I was able to shoot 3/4 to 7/8 MOA five shot groups at 300 yards.

So for the purposes of this rifle I probably won't even worry about blueprinting when I finally do need to replace the barrel.

I could see going full custom on a hunting rifle for resale value, satisfaction of ownership and the like. I could also see it for a very precise target/varmint type rifle.

This will be a hunting rifle, and I am sentimental to rifles, so I will most likely never sale it. I am not necessarily building it on a budget, I have just wheeled and dealed my way into some inexpensive components for it. I will get it blueprinted, because someone pointed out to me that although the older 700s like this one have better quality metal, they are not as straight as some of the newer rifles. I got the bolt, not for fear of losing the handle, but because I could buy a larger bolt body, to tighten up the tolerances and get rid of some of the slop like the old bolt had. It has taken a while to put all the parts together, but I have not been in a hurry, and as I said before, I have wheeled and dealed. As of right now my total investment before any gunsmithing, in the 700 action, Jewell trigger, McMillan stock, and VX-6 3-18x44 is a whopping $14.40.

Well since you're into it at the right price that definitely offsets the blueprinting cost. In these circumstances why not?

For sure, use the 700. It will shoot well. Sounds like you just need a barrel and a gunsmith.

here's your answer

I have never said I wished I would have gone with a remington action after building one on a custom action.

I have had Remington actions with custom barrels that easily shot half MOA at 100 yards.

With what you have in your current action and bolt if you sold them what would you have in custom action....

and there you have it...

I actually have everything, I just need to go talk to the gunsmith. Saving the funds to him right now.

Before you have your receiver squared, do you know what needs to be done to bring it to a customs spec. Too bad that you already have the bolt before the machine work. If the receiver is machined properly your bolt timing will now be off and To machine it properly you start with reaming the raceways. Now your bolt is loose in the receiver. When you cock it the rear of the bolt will rise keeping the upper bolt lug from being in contact with the lug abutment.
Even a varmint rifle will not really be helped doing this, but do it if it makes you feel warm and fuzzy.
I would recommend barrel, trigger,bedding, and proper load workup.

Check my post on 6X47L thread below.

Which is precisely why I talked to the smith before I ever ordered the bolt. He had me take measurements between the raceways, and measure the width of the original bolt. Then he told me what OD bolt to get so everything would be nice and tight once he does the machining work.

Good luck.

Like I said, custom is your huckleberry.

I have a lathe and mill and Rem700 rifles from the pawn shop waiting for me to rebarrel and re stock them.
But I have no intention to true the actions. Looks like fun, but no thanks. I have enough stuff without buying tooling I don't need.
I am a hunter. You name a cartridge, without a trued action, I could build a Rem700 rifle that would average 1/2" five shots 100 yards.. but it would be heavy and need to be tested on a low wind day.
Truing the action is a comparative waste of time for a hunter, compared to spending the time shooting long range targets.

If you are competition target shooter, and willing to do anything to squeeze out 1% more performance, that is different.

Clarkm,
I agree that action truing is not always necessary, especially for a hunting rifle. But what Larry is doing is not the type of action truing I would ever pay for. A skilled machinist gunsmith with a good lathe, an action truing fixture and a four jaw chuck is what I would look at for a real action truing.

Since it's a 'Hunting Rifle' and not a target gun then consider an action design that's made for hunting with CRF and a three position M70 type safety that secures the firing pin.

I use Rem's for target with my 40X's and Hepburn however the mauser/M70 type are for hunting and defense.

I will look for a pic. of a jammed push feed!

Jammed push feed action

"Controlled Feed

Professional hunters and those who have a lot of experience hunting African dangerous game with bolt action rifles usually favor controlled feed designs, such as the Mauser Model 98, Ruger Model 77 Mk. II, and Winchester Classic Model 70. These use full length Mauser pattern extractors that capture the rim of the case as it is pushed out of the magazine and positively align the case with the chamber (hence "controlled feed").

A Mauser type action will feed correctly with the rifle held at any angle or even upside down. Not usually a consideration, it might be if the hunter has been bowled over by a grizzly bear and is trying to operate the action as he rolls on the ground. Also, controlled feed prevents double feeds. When the extractor has captured one cartridge, a second cannot leave the magazine without the first being ejected. Either way, only one cartridge makes it into the chamber. With a push feed action, incorrect operation (double stroking) the bolt can result in two cartridges trying to enter the chamber at once, jamming the rifle.

Not that push feed rifles such as the Browning A-Bolt II, Remington Model 700, Sako Model 75, Savage Model 110 series, and Weatherby Mark V are not perfectly acceptable for most purposes. But the tiny margin of extra feeding reliability credited to the controlled feed design gives it the advantage in a rough and tumble situation.

Extraction

Full length, Mauser pattern extractors not only increase feeding reliability, they take a bigger bite on the rim of the fired case, making the extraction of dirty or oversize cases more certain. Actions such as the Weatherby Mark V, which use shorter and smaller claws, are reputed to be next best for extracting balky cases. And actions like the Remington Model 700, which uses a circlip extractor in the bolt face, have the least extraction bite.

None of these later designs take as positive a grip on the case rim as a Mauser claw extractor, making failures to extract slightly more likely. I have used many brands of bolt action rifles over the years, most without full length extractors, and only one gave feeding or extraction problems (a Remington). I can live with that record, but then I don't make my living protecting clients from charging beasts, either.

Ejection

For a dangerous game rifle, a plunger ejector in the bolt face (as per Remington, Weatherby, and most other push feed actions) is a positive advantage. It always ejects the fired case clear of the action regardless of how slow the bolt is operated. With a fixed ejector (used in the Mauser 98 and most other controlled feed actions) it is possible to open the bolt too slowly to fully eject the fired case. This can result in a jam if the bolt is then run forward without clearing the fired case.

Another weakness of the fixed ejector is that it can be damaged or bent if unfired, very heavy cartridges such as the .458 Lott or .416 Rigby are extracted and ejected smartly. This has happened when emptying the magazines of controlled feed rifles with blind magazine floorplates. Contrary to the sentiments of traditionalists, the plunger ejector is more positive, if less convenient for reloaders.

Another consideration is the size of the ejection port. For both ejection and loading a single cartridge, the bigger the better. The modern trend is toward small ejection ports. These make for a stiffer and theoretically more accurate action, but their primary advantage is reduced manufacturing costs. Actions like the Steyr-Mannlicher and Tikka T3 are the worst offenders, and should be avoided. The Remington 700 has a noticeably smaller ejection port than the Mauser 98, Ruger M77, Weatherby Mark V, Weatherby Vanguard, or Winchester Model 70. Any of the latter are faster to single load. The large loading/ejection port is also an advantage at the rifle range.

It won't be your picture, because you don't actually do anything.

As for your advice on "hunting"; you might as well offer advice on flying to the moon - because you don't do either and that's well known.