Would like to purchase a small hatchet to carry in day/back pack when hunting.
Any suggestions? Not looking for something custom or expensive. Function is more important than looks.

G-B Wildlife.......A tad pricey, but worth it.......

Grandfors Is the only choice... Huntsman's dead on target pay once reap the benefits for a lifetime.

I'll never go back to a rig axe.....

GB makes a fine axe but so does Wetterlings, same owners - both hand made in Sweden, I would recommend either and have a few by each maker.

http://www.wisementrading.com/knifeandsaw/camp_axes.htm

I also have this one and can recommend it with one caveat, make sure you get one with a handle that has proper grain alignment, I have seen some that are pretty bad.

http://www.baileysonline.com/Forest...varna-Hatchet-1-2-lbs-with-15-Handle.axd

Been looking myself and just read a guys review on this very thing.
He was comparing a GB to a Fiskars X7 and was actually sounding pretty impressed with the X7 and with it's low price point much as he likes his classic GB hatchet he said for wet weather abuse he'd not hesitate to recommend the X7 and said it was actually better in some respects.

I know this will not be met with kind regards espescially by the diehard GB fans. I believe it was a write up on Blade Forums.

Not a GB but Whetterling. Still a well respected traditional, and he does mention his GB.
Rocky Mountain Bushcraft review

Depending on your need. If backpacking and weight is a large concern.
This is what I have used in the past about as light as you can go and still be useful. This hawk has cutting power far greater then it's size would indicate.
I have used it to break down deer carcass several times. Goes through deer bones like a hot knife through butter, without knicking or chipping and keeps a very good edge. The thing I like about hawks is for super light carry is that a handle can be cut in the field.

http://www.coldsteel.com/Product/90TH/TRAIL_HAWK.aspx

search of the internet will produce some good prices on it.
I will be the first to admit it is not the best as far as hatchet goes, you can get heavier, and more expensive models. But for the price point, weight, and pure utility pretty hard to beat.

Wetterlings small hunter ax. There is not a better ax.

So, does that mean you are a skatchet fan, too?

Very true,,,,,,,,,,, providing you're partner's carrying a hatchet you can borrow to cut the handle with.

Sorry 2dogs, just messing with you;) but it seems to me like you'd need to carry something fairly heavy to cut and shape said handle with which kinda negates the "lite-weight" part.
I'd also add that you don't really need to be chopping any bones to dismantle a Deer, course that's another thread.

Back on topic, if I were going to carry a hatchet I'd splurge on a good one. It's doubtful that cheap steel would stand up very well where chopping's concerned.
That's JMO since I don't carry a hatchet. I have owned some cheap steel though.

J B Wildlife hatchet it is. Thanks for the suggestions

Why not consider a Husquvarna Hatchet...Wetterlings is making them for Husquvarna....I saw a field test on the web and they are regarded very highly...just my 2 cents worth. http://woodtrekker.blogspot.com/2011/08/husqvarna-hatchet-2011-model-review.html

Because I just ordered the J B before you posted that:)
I don't mind spending $112 on something that should last me the rest of my life. I did go and read some of the reviews on the Huskie hatchet and some were not that good.
Buy the best and only buy once.

My GB Wildlife Hatchet came today. Picked it up off of fleabay. Still paid $96 for it but it looks brand new. I sharpened on my Worksharp and it will shave hair. Handle is perfect, the grain is about 10deg off of verticle, no runout. Cutting fuzzsticks or tentstakes or the like is a breeze. The head is thin enough that botonning to split should not be an issue, unlike a tommahawk. Money well spent.

I decided to try the Husky/Wetterlings "Hudson's Bay" size axe, it'll be here in a few days. We'll see how they compare.

A good bushcraft knife (Which I would not be caught in the wood without, unlike a hatchet) can get you a hatchet handle in short order. I was using the deer to illustrate that the metal of this particular hatchet was not the cheaper sh*t that so often likely to chip or ding. I don't carry one either. But for a long back pack where every ounce counts I would not choose anything heavier.

When I was younger I would don a full pack and hike from daylight to dusk, with tent, sleeping bag, and dehydrated food stuffs. Stay for days. Now that I am older I do well to put a day pack on and climb to a couple of ridges.
But when I was "Full packing" I can remember no matter how useful an item was, if the weight was prohibitive it got left behind. Never did carry a hatchet, but did carry a folding saw and a good heavy carbon well oiled blade of moderate size, which seemed to be all I needed.

That hasn't' been the case for several years now, since Wetterlings changed ownership. The new Husky produts are pretty roughly made.

Note the reviews you cite are 2 years old. They had already changed suppliers by then.

A little off topic but I picked up a new Husqvarna splitting axe just the other day. Agree the head was a tad rough but it was hung near perfect. Took about 5 minutes with a file to clean it up and concave the edge. Half the price of my GB small forest axe and far better for splitting the smaller stuff.

Just curious if any of you gentlemen have ever considered a good kukri to replace a hatchet. while it may not suit most of you its at least in my case been what Ive found to be a decent swap, I generally carry
the sharade woodsman
http://www.knifeoutlet.com/shop/10Expand.asp?ProductCode=SCH165OT



this is a darn good value in a skinning and dressing game knife, and a kukri for camp chores a hatchets used for in most camps, its no replacement for a good axe but I feel its got advantages over most hatchets

Ive found this Kukri far more useful than a hatchet, for various reasons and if you ever dress out out elk you know that theres times where that a heavy blade or a hatchet can be useful and can be used to make the job easier

not only 'no', but HELL NO......



'if you ever dress out elk', includes breaking them down to full bone-in quarters in the field for horse packing, it won't take a feller long to figger out just how worthless a kukri, or any other 'heavy blade' really is......

What are the 'various reasons'?

For the life of me, I cannot think of one good reason a fellow would prefer to have a Kukri over a good Hatchet while in the wilderness or any other place now that I think about it.


randy

When I lived in Alaska we carried a chain saw with a 12 inch bar on it. The only lube we used was vegetable oil. I can't begin to remember how many moose we quartered out with that chain saw. Decided to down size to a hatchet since moving to the lower 48:)

Did carry a Kukri for a couple of years and never really found a use for it. I would use a folding saw a lot when trying to travel through the alders. Used to carry a big knife in the back pack as well but it usually stayed in the sheath. Most popular camp tool was a small Gerber axe, that's my reason for finally wanting a good small hatchet.

I've broken down numerous elk, and several bison with a 3 inch blade, can't even guess how many deer I've boned out in the field. Never saw a need for any heavier tool, a little longer blade would have helped on the big critters. Except if one wants to bring out the ribs, there a reciprocating saw works wonders.

I wouldn't be happy with anyone who took an axe to one of my animals.

Never have lived in Elk or Moose country. Wish I did, if I did then something more substantial such as a Gransfors Bruks hetchet would have to be on the list weight or no weight.

I almost think that very thing for myself.

Here in Texas I have no need for a hatchet for butcher work. However I keep one in the truck. I use it for building ground blinds, fixing fence, firewood, driving stakes, beating on farm equipment LOL - I find it to be a handy tool to have around.


Randy

Agreed.
But I can still see me using a GB Wildlife Hatchet and a GB Small Forest Axe for lots of other stuff.

There are tons of uses for a hatchet while hunting or camping. Doubt I would use one when field dressing a deer but they are one of the handiest tools to have. A reasonable size knife and a small hatchet are the perfect survival tools.

Let us know what ya think when you get it in. Somehow I doubt you'll be disappointed.

I have a Lee Reeves hatchet that I have never used and I know Rick has a small double bit. The double bit has a heavier side for rough work and the other slimmer you could skin a deer out with.

The Gerber/Fiskars hatchets, in whatever size suits your needs, are the equivalent of stainless/synthetic rifles. You really can't go wrong with them for light weight practical tools.

Those Fiskars are indeed a good value and product.
I just can't do the plastic thing.

I'd love to find an old Plumb Boy Scout hatchet someday but in the mean time I'll stick with my old Plumb Cruiser and stacked leather Estwing for camp chores, and a good fixed blade belt knife in the field.

Yeah the post/thread was 2 years old but the results are still rlevant and valid. BTW Husqvarna does not make the 'tomahawk' profile anymore, they changed the Head to a GB profile.

The new models are of inferior quality to the old Wetterlings made Husky Axes(which IS the case).

You are wrong and the info you are passing along as gospel is outdated.

Sorry.

Glad I ordered the G B wildlife hatchet. Couple of my buddies thought I was nuts for spending $112 on a hatchet but a tool that will give you at least 20 years of use I think the cost is well justified.
Good tools are a joy to use. Crap is crap and you end up fighting or hating it until you toss it in the garbage can. Then you always have that nagging feeling you should of bought the better one in the first place:)

When yer hatchet comes in, you can improve the handle by knocking the finish off with sandpaper, flaming the wood and polishing with some steel wool. Then, apply 3-4 good coats of boiled linseed oil. Oil it up again once a year, or as needed. Get the end-grains good, and you'll never have to swell with water. The oil finish adds a little 'grippy-ness', and won't cause blisters like laquers or poly does, if you have to work it hard.....

I remember my cousin telling me he used to cut up elk, moose and deer in Wy with two small hand axes in the late 50s and early 60s. One axe poll is hit against the other. I can see that method as being fairly accurate.

If a hunter brings only one axe I would think there would be some inaccurate cuts.

Can anyone explain with detail how they use one hand axe to "break down" an animal?
------------
Here is a site for some wonderfully hand crafted axes called Hawks. I have a woodsman that late Bob Thailman sold me 15 yrs ago at the Bozeman gun show. http://www.2hawks.net/tomahawks/

I have often thought it might be interesting to use it on one of my elk hunts but have doubts on its utility vs a Wyoming saw for accurate cuts.

I never used a hatchet to break down an animal and really have no plans to start now. But as I mentioned before we used chain saws on moose. Some areas of Alaska require you to bring the meat out in sections and sawing through a back bone or neck or trying to cut off the antlers is very time consuming using a hand saw.

BTY, I quit using a Wyoming saw years ago after carrying a Stanley Crosscut saw that cost about $14 and weighs less than a pound. The crosscut saw will put the Wyoming to shame:
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-20-04...sr=8-1&keywords=stanley+crosscut+saw

A hatchet or axe is a camping tool. If not chopping or splitting wood the most common thing I used a hatchet for when in the field is helping clear brush around a kill site followed by getting wood ready for camp fires and for making meat poles.

'shooter, it's NEVER a good idea to bang two hardened striking tools together, no matter how much more 'accurate' it is.....

I only quarter 'meat' elk with a hatchet, caped trophies get the injun quarter method. There are still a bunch of commercial meat cutters that prefer to bandsaw-cut elk, rather than dealing with trying to sort out bags of boned stuff. The way I do it is fast, clean and efficient. Start with yer elk on its back, circle/skin the spuzz spot/pecker down betwitx the 'nads. Lay one nut each way, to save as proof-o'-sex. Cows go the same, leaving a tit either side. Split the skin all the way to the chin.Cut down to the sternum right in the middle, leaving a 'chop-line' to follow. Cut thru the meat, to the center of the pelvis the same. Now, take yer handy hatchet and split the top of the pelvis bone. This will allow the hips to 'fall' away and open the channel. Run your knife up the center, careful not to hit guts,all the way to the 'fan' at the bottom of the sternum. Split the center of the cartilage fan with your knife. This leaves a little 'V' shaped aimpoint for the hatchet, to then chop it open, right up that cut-line you made.. Cut thru the neck meat, from the sternum to chin, exposing the windpipe. Trim around it at the base of the jaw, cut thru so's ya can grab it. Get aholt and pull, freeing with the knife as needed, all the way to the diaphram. Cut thru diaphram close to ribs, and yank the guts the resta the way out. Trim around the azzhole to free the pile, and drag the whole deal outta the way. Now's the time to get the heart and liver, if you're into that kinda thing.Lay 'em on the paunch to keep 'em clean till you're ready to pack up. Next, knock out the ivory/bugle teeth, and remove the head, pocket the teeth. If you want the skull plate, chop it off now. Toss the head back outta the way, next to the gutpile. It's 'Chop Time' now...

Straddle the critter, and work from back to front. Pull hind legs forward, chop off the tail and start whacking. Get thru the pelvis, and one or two whacks per vertebrae will halve lengthways. It goes a bit haywire, and you get off-line a bit, until you get some practice in. Keep pulling the hind legs forward, and cutting the back-hide to open up the workspace, as you go. It really helps to keep the carcass as vertical as possible, to keep the chopline straight and clean. When you reach the camel-hump/withers it gets a bit tricky, but don't give up now. Few more whacks,and hide cutting, and then 'halve' part, is done. Next post will finish up. Gotta rest my typing finger, as it's easier to actually do the critter, than type it out HOW to do it.....

Alright. Let's say you and a pard rode in without packhorses for this hunt, and whomped a couple bulls. We now have 2 split halves almost ready to pack out, and another gutted bull up the hill aways. Remove the lower legs and toss 'em to the gutpile. Poke a hole thru the tendon void on the hind, and thru the leg on the front. Clove hitch a 2-3 foot piece of rope thru this hole, centered, to each leg. Cows and spikes will need a hole cut thru the hide 4-6 inches long, lengthways outside of, but centered between the second and third ribs from the rear. Raghorns need the horn cut centered on the third/fourth ribs. Big ol' slab-sided bulls are heavier in the front end, and need this cut between fourth/fifth ribs to keep the weight balanced on the saddle. This cut will be dropped over the saddlehorn when ya load a half per horse. Tie the legs snug to the cinch rings on both sides, with the attached ropes, and you're ready to lead the now-loaded ponies back to the trailer. Heart and liver in the saddlebags. Then, ride back in and do it all again....... This is by far, the best way to pack meat on a stock saddle, without panniers. Low, snug and perfectly balanced. If the country (or horses) are rough enough, tie the saddle strings over the top, cross-ways before the packout.

Once back to the truck, we decided to take a packsaddle back in for the second bull, to make getting the horns out easier. This'un we halved crossways, and quartered the fronts. The quarters and heads, went on the packhorse the unsplit hinds went on the stock saddle.

Here's a pic of a skull that was hatcheted, instead of sawn.....





Once home, it was covered with leather and screwed to a board....

Nice tutorial, thanks!

Thanks Huntsman 22,

Very interesting and informative.

Yes... I learned quite a bit from that explanation. Thanks for sharing.

Damn pard, I hope ya covered it pretty tight or scraped 'er off a bit... [grins]

Scraped 'er off?.....

nah, me mighty hunter. scraping is squaw work. Don't have a squaw, so I just let it dry out, all by it's very-own-self, and slathered it with pl-400 construction adhesive, pressed the leather into it, tuck-'n-wrapped it around the back and called it good...

Laughin' left the winders open fer the first week 'er two and everything worked out fine...

Nice bull btw

Huntsman, thanks for the flashback. My 1st elkhunt was a horseback hunt w/ my dad, uncles, brother and a cousin. My dad and uncles grew up on a ranch on Pike's Peak. I was with my dad when he got a decent bull and he processed and loaded the horses the same way as I recall. I was 8 years old and thought the whole deal was the coolest most "western" thing I ever saw. I managed to cut myself twice and was covered w/ elk blood. I had my Davy Crockett coon skin cap and a k-bar knife and knew I was now a mountain man.

Thanks again, mike r

Couple of mine

Rick, I'm kinda surprised a man of your talents don't build your own 'improved' ones....

Can't improve the best.

even by letting carnivorous porkypines gnaw on the handles?...grin

I love the jiggin' you put on those handles. Makin' a great product better.
Wildlife Hatchet and Small Forest Axe...?

I think the leetle one is a mini.

I don't think they make the small one anymore?? It will be put to use in the next few days on a mule deer.

So is it a mini or wildlife? OAL?

The little one is what's in my truck. My big axe is a Sears that I bought after a Hurricane. It was all I could find. I have had very little use for the axe, Chainsaw covers most of that ground. But the hatchet has been used a lot and I have to keep and eye on it when I am out and about. Some of my so called pards would make off with it, if I weren't vigilant.

10 inches

mini......

Those are really good tutorials you posted on takin' apart an elk.
Do you, from field use, see an advantage of the Mini over the Wildlife, or vice versa...?

Huntsman may think different, but gotta believe in capable hands either is about the same. I like the wildlife a little better for general choppin' just cause of the longer handle but that's mostly about personal preference. Either is damned hard to beat for The job.

That makes sense. I like that Mini...but it seems like I could do everything with the Wildlife that I could do with the Mini, but I couldn't do everything with the Mini that I could do with the Wildlife (due to the head weight difference and the handle length difference).

Only advantage to the mini is weight as far as I can see.

The mini is a little light and short for good whacks on an elk spine. In fact, the small forest axe is better than even the wildlife for this. The downside of the small forest/hunter is the handle length/size for fitting in backpack or saddlebags.

I keep a Wetterlings large hunting axe in my high country Jeep at Breckenridge and a small hunting axe in my pack. I have owned the wildlife axe, but like the longer handle of the small hunting axe better and find it to be a more useful axe for my needs.

I also have a couple of Gransfors Bruk axes and don't think that they are any better than the Wetterlings. That said, there are people who are more knowledgeable axe men than me who feel that the GBs are better axes. Some of the GB owners who I know don't actually use their GBs, they just seem to have them to show other people that they have them.

Jeff

Nice hatchet. Mine came in the other day. Feels even lighter in my hand and is about perfect in size. Love the fact the off side can be used for hammering as well. Compact, well build and handles nicely. Money well spent.
Thanks for the leads to purchase one of these.

Sorry but I don't like the handles. Would work great for grip for a few swings but any extended chopping and it would just make blisters. Extended chopping requires a hold where the handle sort of rocks in the palm and is mostly held by the fore finger and thumb.

You wish...!

Thats his Christmas wish Antlers.

I see your point...but the thing is, I don't see either of them being used for any "extended chopping". Certainly not hours worth. These sizes are more likely to be used for specialized chopping (tree limbs, small trees, kindling, critters, tent stakes, etc.). If one were using a felling axe to chop down a whole bunch of trees, I think the point you made would be more applicable.

Yea, a rough grip is fine for short use. I use these and machetes to rough out selfbows. I may sit and use one for several hours. Usually a couple hours at a sitting. You could also craft objects like traps, chairs, even windows, all sorts of bushcraft that require extended use. You are correct though that most people will only take a few swings with a death grip and have no idea of the proper hold.

This may help explain. Actually the grip in the vid is too short and should be smaller and slicker for perfection. I will grind off all the front portion on such a grip to help with a proper hold.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V4wb32tkS6c

Might also consider that with gloves Rick's jigged version would make for a hellova handy improvement. Lots a reasons why there ain't only one right answer

Not trying to criticize Rick at all. Another good option is tennis racket tape. Gives a good grip and is easily removed.

I have a couple or 3 old Marbles hatchets. One of them needs a new handle.

I think I may put some kind of fancy hardwood on it. The #6 is about perfect size for game IMO.

This one is a #9 made around 1910. Rifle was made in 1900. Oldies but goodies for certain........

Free Bowie knife pic it's an oldie too.........

That old hatchet is way cool...!

2MG, If you find a source for Marbles handles, let me know. I have one that cracked. I hand-whittled the tube/groove thingy's on the end, and re-attached. It works, but not purty. Would love to replace......or sell.....

If you want to send it off for a new handle, I know a guy who will do a great job at a very reasonable price. Same wood too, I believe. He was actually at the Marbles factory when they were cleaning it out when it closed. PM me anytime if interested.......

will he just send one to me? I'll fit it......

I like the jigging. Never had a jigged handle wear a blister. That being said my hands ain't soft:)

I can check. I need one also. I'll call him tomorrow........

thank you, sir.

is it tomorrow yet?

You're a witty fella...!

Well, it is here.

Here's one I made my old man a fews years ago. He loves it. Carries it in is day pack all the time. He does keep telling me thou I should have made the handle 2'' longer. Whada ya do.

Make the next one 2" longer.

Yep 2" longer seems to be good. Very nice work though......

Looks very handy indeed!