Get this stuff:
http://www.derbydust.com/xcart/product.php?productid=13lube your case with Hornady One Shot Aerosal (not the pump spray !)
Then dip the necks up to the shoulder in the dry lube. Run it into the sizing die and you will have a visual of how far down the neck you are sizing (it's also real good stuff to avoid expander ball galling)
In a belted case of any type you reall want to headspace on the shoudler rather than the belt to both extend case life and improve accuracy.
Weatherby factory brass is a bit soft, so the main issue is keeping the length correct. As long as it chambers easily, don't worry about pushing back the shoulder. IF the time comes you need to and the primer pockets are still tight, you can buy a "bump die" from Redding whose only purpose is to push the shoulder back JUST enough to allow proper chambering.
As a rule of thumb, only size the neck down as far as the bullet will be seated in the case. However, in a hard kicker like the 340 in a rifle that doesn't weigh a lot there are some prudent rules for hunting loads:
1. Use only new or once fired brass for hunting loads.
2. Crimp the bullets with either a roll crimp (if the bullet has a cannelure or has grooves like a TSX), of not, use a taper crimp.
3. Avoid bullets with plastic tips as they can break off and jam up the magazine.
4. Cycle test all ammo through the rifle before taking it afield.
5. Do not leave the same rounds in the magazine after you have fired and just top it off. Check the ammo in the magazine for any set back of the bullet or other issues.
The 340 is a handfull and 99% of what it is used for can be handled by loading it to 338/06 or 338 WinMag levels.
In the midst of a 338 RUM build but it's gonna weigh at least 15 pounds and be a single shot with 1 34" barrel for 2000 yard gong ringing, so life will be a bit simpler than were it a medium heavy magazine rifle.
Good shooting !