I’m looking into getting a recurve bow to shoot at the house. I don’t know anything about brands or setups so I thought I would get some advice from you all. Any information helps. Thanks,
Jody

It would help if you could give us more information about yourself - it's very difficult to make recommendations without knowing more, such as:

Are you completely new to archery or have you shot a bow before?
If not new to archery, what have you shot previously (compound only, coming back to a recurve years later, what draw weight, etc.)?
Do you have a budget?

Samick is a Korean company that comes to mind for entry level bows at attractive prices. Martin and Bear are American companies that have been around for many years offering a variety of mass produced bows. Then there are numerous small production / custom bowyers offering so much variety I couldn't begin to recommend one over another.

The Martin Hunter recurve is an old standby that would be a good choice in a one-piece bow - I've owned quite a few over the years and still have one today. Probably the single biggest mistake new shooters make is to buy a bow too heavy for them to shoot well. You mentioned shooting at the house and didn't say anything about hunting. With that, a 50 lb or heavier bow is more than you need and something in the 35 - 45 lb range would suit you better.

Just saw this post in the classifieds here on this site - you should take a look...

https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbt...me-nice-recurves-and-a-td-longbow#UNREAD

JGray,
I’m completely new to archery. I don’t know anything about it at all. I’d like to keep it under $750 or so. Let me know what other info would help. Thanks,
JL

I’ll look at those bows! Thank!

Call the folks at RMS Gear (877) 843-5559. They carry new and used traditional bows and have hundreds in stock. Tell them what you're looking for and they'll get you outfitted properly. I've bought several bows from them and have been totally satisfied.

Those are some nice sticks for sale!

But if you're just getting your feet wet to see if you're really intersted and don't want to drop $500 there are a few good suggestion. The Samick Sage Elite would be a good choice to consider. You could call the folks at Lancaster Archery and they 'll talk you through it.

Hard to beat that 45 pound super kodiak for a first recurve. That was my first bow also. The price asked is very fair.

I've been considering that one myself - I've always liked the styling of the Super K but have never had the opportunity to shoot one.

Had a VVG Kodiak Special, factory camo, 47#
Worst Bear I ever shot (proly why like new).

Noise and vibe were horrible, and nothing fixed it.

Went to order a Samick Discovery riser in black last night, sold out
That w short carbon woods 45# would be a decent little 58" rig.

Samick has two factories, one in Korea, one in China.
Your chances of something not screwed up were (are?) much better w the Korean stuff.

Would not get any laminated riser from Samick.
They did em for Tradtech and had issues.
I've personally seen some cracks where wood butted up against phenolic.

Discovery riser is Korean and machined aluminum (reportedly).
Avoids the potential glue problem LOL

Must say the newer Super Kodiak w the black phenolic is a good lookin rig.
I'd definitely shoot one before buying (should on ANY bow).

When my Dad and I first started bowhunting in '79, he bought a Bear Grizzly and I bought a Howatt Hunter. He shot the Grizzly one year and traded it towards a Howatt Hunter - hated it.

I like the grip of the Grizzly way more than the 2800.
But after 4 classic Grizzlys......they are slow and loud.....rhe latter due to limb resonance, not string.

Some dampeners solves that ( but looks like crap ).

Did have a rosewood Superdiablo that was OK.
Still not the grip i prefer.

If the grip was a little higher wrist, I would have really liked my Hoyt Dorado.

Ive been shooting a BW of some sort since 87.
Standard grip.
Had three built and have had five metal riser ones picked up used. Like the HS way more than the HF

I doubt that you want to start with 45#. The Samick Sage can be had with 30# limbs to start and then heavier poundage limbs can be found. Lighter poundage will help you learn and practice basics.

If possible, I'd look at attending a traditional archery shoot near you. There are usually vendors who carry used bows, and might let you try a few out on the practice bales.

750 bucks should get you a great used bow. Whichever you choose, make sure it's light in draw weight and smooth drawing. Some of the short bows become very stacky at full draw, and if combined with a draw weight that's uncomfortable to you, it can set you up to develop bad shooting form. Being new to traditional archery, developing good form is key.

I'd also advise you to avoid cheap bows. If you buy a quality bow, you shouldn't have much trouble selling it if you want to step up to a higher weight, or buying a new set of limbs if it's a takedown and the riser suits you. JMO.

I should have some used old school recurves for sale in four days.
I will report back!

You need to go to an archery shop and shoot as many as different bows as possible.

You will know a smooth shooter when you shoot it.

It would also be a good idea to have your own shooting glove when testing. Many different types and styles.

I shoot Widows mostly.
Lots of people hate em............for whatever reasons.

One guy on a tradtard forum said that he shot one, once, and it was loud and had shock and shot like crap.

I asked him if he ever shot one that was tuned correctly?

Bowyer local, and his buds, were shooting indoors. I showed up at the range and started shooting.
His posse just stood there jaws open.

My bow was faster and quiet.

One came over and asked arrow/weight and poundage.
Then exclaimed that what I told him could NOT be true.

Just smiled, and said " wanna shoot it?"

He did and was all smiles.

My SA2 was perfect and the guy was my sized so everything transferred over well.
Kinda POd his bowyer buddy and pals.

LOL

I let quite a few people shoot my SA2 bows, and a few ended up ordering their own.

Nothing wrong with Black Widow bows. They aren't the smoothest I have shot and by far not the roughest I have shot. Limb core has more to do with stack than anything. But heavier draw bows are going to stack it's just the nature of the beast. For hunting North America I don't see any need to pull more than 55 to 60 pounds tops. 55 is my sweet spot of performance and practice (endurance) shooting. I have a set of 65 limbs that at my draw are just shy of 70, I can hunt with that bow fine but not going to put in the ends I would with my 55 or 45 limbs. Somehow ones manly hood became how heavy a bow he can shoot instead of how accurate and how many ends he can shoot accurately. A bow you can shoot good with and a lot with is a hell of a lot more fun than a bow that is too heavy to shoot accurately and a lot. I see it everyday and not just with traditional bows.

I shot my 55# SA2 in 3D and won local and semi local shoots...........and not everybody that shot sucked LOL
Shot it indoors too, but considered that hunting practice.
Did OK, just too much # to play that game.
Still scored higher than most running lesser poundage.

But injuries took me out of that game.
Took me almost out of bowhunting.

Am back, but don't shoot as much. Used to shoot all the time, hours on end.
Not anymore.

IMHO 55# is where one has to put more work into staying sharp.
50# is a nice compromise.
45# would be for me, my target bow that I take hunting..........and it better be zippy.

Personally I think Widows draw a little heavier at the start, but don't stack (like near the end).
I'd like to try some Uuhka on an ILF, guess w the "curve" they actually feel lighter the last couple inches.

Bud says the bamboo core on his PCH makes it faster/smoother.
His is 42# and I think I can p*ss harder than it shoots.

Too light for me.

My old B50 HF1225 at 48# was a decent rig for 3D and hunting, but I like the grip of the HS way better.

Do like a heavier mass weight recurve, why I run a bow quiver too.

BW did change their limb forms when they went CNC, so have more preload in them.

The ones I had built:

MA2 was '87 and not FF rated.
First SA2 was '01 and pre CNC.
Next was '04 and CNC but I didn't go phenolic wedge.

My HF1225's were '72 and '73 models and my first two HS were '80 and '75......B50 stuff.
Current HS is '91 and FF rated.

Met Ken Beck at recurve nationals in '88.
Super nice guy.
Rest of the gang at BW nice too, great customer service.

And that is why if I have another recurve built, it will be by them.
May not be the best, but they are certainly good enough for me

Black Widows are really nice, and most I’ve seen can be tuned so noise isn’t as bad as some claim.

If one is looking for a nice bow, Robertson Stykbow is hard to beat. I’ve had three of his longbows over the years, and bought one of his Fatal Styk takedown recurves last year. Gonna try to give it a workout this season. Without a doubt the smoothest recurve I’ve ever shot, and performance is second to none. Writing the check hurts though.

Long Bows I am very partial to Toelke's. No I haven't shot everything out there but a good majority I have and nothing I have found compares to his Whip.

I dont do longbows.
Have shot some buds have owned.
Think one was a 44# tomahawk.


It was nicer than the others Ive shot.

Another bud has a Chastain recurve I shoot well. Think is 60" and 51#

My Hoyt Dorado w Tradtech limbs was a good buy.

Have not tried any of the big hook/ supercurve stuff.

I have three vintage recurves I would sell.

Two are bears
One is a Ben PEARSON.

THE BEARS ARE A GRIZZLY 28 45 pound 58 inch amo and a Kodak hunter 50 pound 60 inch Amo. The Grizzly is a Michigan bow, the Kodak hunter has been painted so I dunno. But I can read the serial number.

The Ben Pearson is 50 pound. 58 inch amo model 7058.

Right hand bows. Pm me for pics and prices.

These are using bows, priced to shoot, not covet.

Bear grizzly is a very good bow, especially for the price. Super Kodiak is my favorite bear bow. I love the Kodiak magnum for hunting but its not really a good first recurve for most people. But once you can shoot one accurately its a gem in a treestand or blind. Any Martin is also a solid choice. If you can find a browning explorer II, they are a great first recurve--a hunting bow with classic target bow features.

I liked my Ben Pearson Hunter 2 and Wing Redwing Hunters.
They were not expensive back when I got em used.
Have gone up more than they should IMHO.

They weren't speedy, weren't noisy either.

Had a Groves Spitfire Magnum 47# and it was nice, but the grip was huge and it was too collectible to grind on.

ILF riser with ~30# limbs to start with. (Learn to shoot with a .22 not a 300 Mag.) Spend $20 on a book called 'Shooting the Stickbow' before you buy anything else. Take your time, learn to shoot properly, work up in weight slowly and enjoy the journey.

the thread is a few months old, though so much has happened in the last 9 months that it seems like forever...

but since it is top five and about recurves, i thought I would ask here....

what info opinions are out there about Bear Alaskan Recurves?

this suggests a late sixties craft date.

http://www.vintagearchery.org

flush silverish or silvery-brass coin
coin and screen logo are of the standing bear.
62" AMU
50#
s/n starts with "9" so '69 per the above reference.

thanks

Fine bow. As with any old one check for cracks and delamination.

A bow exploding in your hands can spoil you whole day. As with guns, always wear safety glasses.

thanks OTB.
the limbs "ring" true to a light tap.
no obvious glaring flaws.
some light scratches near the tips, a bir more pronounced at the lower tip where it was probably set on a shoe to string it..

Ive had a few 60s era Bears.
No structural issues.
Couple had twisted limbs that I had to straighten.
No big deal.
One little 45# Grizzly was a fun bow.
Think it was a 56", had a 50# that was 58"

I like border recurves, Have a few Martin recurves, Hoyt, Schafer silver tip, and a few old bear kodiaks and a ben pearson

If I was starting again I would get a used Hoyt takedown and start with 30 to 40 lb limbs to get down my shooting technique and upgrade limbs for hunting

https://www.ebay.com/b/Hoyt-Recurve-Bows/20839/bn_7332728

Had a Dorado, used Tradtech ILF limbs w bushing swap.
Nice bow.
Too bad it was a 19" riser and not 17"

58" string or AMO?
[spoiler][/spoiler]
how far should the string be from the riser/grip when properly set up?

The Bear Grizzly had at least two different AMO lengths.
Ive had both 58 and 56" models.

In general, you want a string for a recurve to be 4" less than your AMO.

A 58" AMO bow would get a 54" string.

Some places make you give the AMO only when ordering a string.

You want some twist on the string and to be able to add twists to take up stretch/ adjust brace height.

Brace is somewhat subjective.
There may be a zone of usable brace.
Typically i have to run my recurves at the higher end.
Sometimes just over the " recommended" brace height.

Mentioned that on a couple forums and all hell broke loose. LOL

I shoot medium weight arrows and have a decent release ( tab ). Get great paper tune without much effort ( only one bow gave me a bit of headache ).

Over 30 recurves, right or wrong my system/ style works for me. Since I hunt, i try to get my bows on the quiet side, so a higher brace works.

If I was shooting lighter poundage and doing 3d, then I might try to brace low for some zip.

Im not tolerant of shock or noise so am content to stay in the more comfy region.

Im sorry, dont remember what my brace was on the four Grizzlies I had ( 35, 45, 50 and 50#).

I just shoot em and adjust accordingly.

Let the feel tell me where i need to be.

Do write it down once you figure out what it likes.
My widow tunes are recorded, because I forget stuff a lot anymore

Once I set a bow, I leave it. B50 will stretch and need adjustment often at the start, but should settle down after a while.

Had a widow go out of tune after getting caught in the rain.
D97 string, twisted up to spec and it was fine.

Kinda surprised it stretched.

I think most strings settled down around 200 shots.

Avoid endless loop strings. Lots of shops have em cheap for recurves. Get a flemish steing as the overlay will be leaser at the start of the loop and youll have less string knocker.

3 Rivers sells a decent B50 flemish string for old recurves for about 16 bucks IIRC. Guy on Ebay makes nice ones too on custom colors, HoppyBeer was his name. Dunno if he still makes em.

One stretched a bow should stay in tune for a good while, like months.

I shoot often so leave my bow strung.

FWIW i dont mess w my compound sights all the time either. Know folks that constantly tweak things.

Am a belliever in set and forget

Of course i do check brace/nock point once in a while.
But vibe/ noise and quality of arrow flight should tell you if something has changed.

thanks.
lots of info.
guess i hsve some research to do...

no shops within a few hours so I was taking a stab at wrapping my own "endless loop" in the mean time...
strung it and the string was right at the heel of my hand....
dang, didn't used fixed posts when laying it out...
reverse strung it and measured again...it was 1-/2" longer than intended..
unwinding it now.....
PitA.....
live and learnd, but should have known to pin the ends for proper layout...

found this as a reference for ball-park target brace heights...
https://www.lancasterarchery.com

Got email saying my new Widow riser is on its way.
LOL have not ordered limbs yet, figure 58" and 46# +/-1 #.

Have a neat old HS for sale. Radius riser, 58", 54#@28
RH. Holes filled ( factory cushion plunger, sight and quiver) and riser repainted ....was chipped when purchased.

1991 model. Is FF rated.

My arthritis is bad enough i have to drop #.
Sucks as i really like the grip of the metal riser HS and it took me 3 yrs to find this one.

Cool to make your own strings.
Made one yrs ago on shops jig, endless loop for compound.

Flemish is the way to go on recurves. Ive never made one and run Widows so need the smaller loop type. Like their factory strings well enough i just buy new.

And the stuff from 3R is good enough for my non widow bows.

Do think making own arrows/ strings adds to the experience. Im just lazy and found stuff that works i can purchase.

definitely thinking about a fletching jig...




well got the v2 string on...my brace is still below spec rang though...

I'll have to try adding some twist...

at least now i can get a feel for arrow length...

I had planned on buying a string, but it seems not many places carry much any more...

I swear even two years ago I would see archery stuff around more than I am now ..

Xbows really hurting vertical bow market around here.

Still run my Jo Jan jig bought in 85
4" helical feathers, trad or wheels.
Gold tips w weight system.

Good enough for my level.of shooting.

Where you out of hookeye?

I saw in your previous post that you had some "old school" recurves for sale. Thanks for mentioning Ben Pearson. I was wondering if anyone had ever heard of one around here. That's what I grew up with. Great bows and are for using for sure. If I were the OP, I'd look into the one you are selling. My dad used to throw 5 gallon bucket lids into the air and have me practice that way. That was after many hours of instinctual shooting and dead jackrabbits under my belt. Those 5 gallon bucket lids were always the hardest to hit. Made everything else seem like a walk in the park.

My mom lived down the road a bit from the first 3 Rivers shop....which was basement of a house LOL.

Ben Pearson? Uh, Pearson bows were popular around here back in the day.

I bought a Hunter 2 back in the 80s used like new. 45 #
Had a lot of fun w that bow.

Howatt, Pearson, Bear, Shakespear, even Herters.

Not uncommon around here.

A few Blackwidows and Groves.

Trad got pretty popular but seems to have settled down.
Maybe its as popular or better now? I dunno.
We dont have any outdoor archery clubs/ shoots anymore

Hell im too old and beat up. Havent been worth a crap all day. Sitting here just looking at my 54# recurve.

Makes my body hurt just to look at it LOL

ever see the guy who could hit quarters out if the air?
bow trick shots.
pretty cool.

I dunno which is more trad oriented........Wis, Mich or Penn?
See lots of posts on forums from those states.

Is it reflective of general deer hunting numbers or?

Do know with compounds it was kinda sorta regional.
Martin popular out west, wasnt a big seller here.
But that was decades ago.

But PSE and Hoyt were western companies that sold wheelies in higher number east of the Missisippi.

Oneida? Those were popular back in the day, but maybe more east coast (then Michigan when CPO bought em).
Michigan was Bear land, but I dunno how much that changed when they split for FL.

Bear recurves seemed popular everywhere.

That would be awesome. Guy deserves my respect.

I still got some vintage recurves I would sell.

P.M. For a deal please.

Got my new riser yesterday

quater was just for starters...

Hell the blue face X disappeared years ago and now the white is a fuzzy.

No way i could see a quarter that far away, let alone anything smaller LOL

finally got a real string.
58" measured 57-1/4" before mounting. vs. my hand made set up at 58"

brace height for the new string is about 9-3/4" with no twist.
I haven't been able to find a manufacturer recommendation on brace height (50# pull, 62" recurve, 58" AMO) but it looks better than the hand-heel hitting 4-3/4 I had with my home wound string.

The arrow tails are kicking high, or oscillating vertically so I need to figure out my nock point height.. the tails swing so much they were hitting branches above my shooting "tunnel" (31" 350 spine arrows, could probably go with 30.5"s) I figure I need to add a few twists as well.


P.S. not a fan of shrinkwrap fletchings....

All the guys here. Tell them the.particulars of your setup. They will be happy to help and are the next best thing to a trad pro shop or a friend that knows what they're doing.

https://www.3riversarchery.com/?gcl...h2H2yRvqbbqGAWtUd5czC0z5_T0aAgBjEALw_wcB

Are you shooting a plastic rest or off the shelf?

They do make a vane for recurves now, supposedly usable off the shelf.

I dunno, i just run feathers on everything.

Porpoising sounds like there could be nockpoint and or fletching crashing the rest. Could be brace too.

Even if using an elevated rest, normal vanes probably gonna crash it to some degree.

Feathers, w nock rotated for minimal possible rest/ shelf contact, slightly high nock point. Should be close

thx
off the shelf with the installed pad
I had vane skidmarks on the shelf so I retied the nocks higher.
much more consistent, but slightly low..
then tweaked the top nock back a bit lower
getting better.
some stretch set in so closer to 8.5" brace now.
cracked a couple shafts, but made a few wood arrows and as a result figured out how to repair the split shafts..
running mostly cheap easton private labels to get it dialed in.

any suggestions on points for home made wood arrows? mine seem to be rather erratic.
I made some flat broads out of simpson strong ties...the fletchings are not art either. but at 15-20 yards they seem to take wild turns...
FOC is real close to the carbon 21"s
need some field points for the wood..thinking the flat broad heads may be causing flyers..
thx.

Go to Tradgang or Tradtalk. Very common posts,there.

Thx WS.

Found a good resource...
like Chris Long for barrel Harmonics and OBT

https://understandingarchery.wordpress.com/2020/03/03/a-recurve-tuning-method-like-none-other/

Youtube the guys at The Push and Jake Kaminski.

Aint hard to find decent sources.

Ken Beck video i posted is old but solid.
Personally dont need to shave fletch and leave quills on like shown in intermediate step.

Bare to fletched has worked fine for me, for 30 plus yrs.

Mr. Beck is also a heck of a nice guy.
Practiced next to him one morninh at nationals.

Roger at BW also a good dude.

Good Video.
I hadn't gotten around to watching it before.
I am thinking I need to get a box of bare arrows and a jig.

Just ordered a set of limbs from the guys in Nixa.
Man that stings the wallet.
But getting old means dropping the #.

Thank goodness I can tolerate PB&J for a long while (offset the limb cost LOL).

congrats..
I feel your pain...
I am going with eye dominance on my return so my underdeveloped bow arm stabilizing muscles are feeling yesterdays practice..
glad I dont have to open the limb can yet...

relevant question:
Tiller, or tillering,
is it only a relevant concern for three piece bows?
or is it tied into nock point set on one piece bows?

All four of the Blackwidows Ive had built were tillered split finger. Shot em fine 3 under too, just minor nockpt change.

Tab and skinny fingers maybe helps?

I dunno. Just shoot em. Papertune shows good. Screw on the broadheads and everything is fine.

Did change my anchor on one setup and it mandated more spine than usual. Had a couple like it before ( B50 rated ) and when I got a FF rated one things changed substantially ( IMHO ).

Really only recurve that didnt tune up super fast.
Got it figured out eventually.

Was a BW purchased used....had 5 of them LOL

I suspect factory recurves are tillered for split finger.

Could just buy an ILF and do whatever you want

thx.
going through various set-up guides just figuring what adjustment levers I need to worry about..
did a couple of searches but coulld not get a good description. just the means of adjustment for a three piece.

I need to work on form though before I get too far in the fine adjustment stuff.

Wow there's a lot of knowledgable recurve shooters here!
I need to rehome my bow that I never thought I'd part with. The first question that comes to mind is how would one ship a 62" one piece recurve?
I also need to determine a value, I don't know if thats cool here but I'll tell you about it and appreciate any input I get.
It's a 55# 62" right hander. I bought it around 30 years ago from a nice old guy at a mom and pop archery shop in Seattle. It's marked Ridgerunner, asI recall the story it was his design that he had built by Martin in Yakima. I never got to use it much, I killed one deer and a few muskrat with it. I had a few other bows and sold most of them over the years since I wasn't using them but I kept the Ridgerunner, it fits me like a glove and comes up and on target almost automaticaly. I tried several takedowns but none felt anything like my one piece. I certainly couldn't let it go if there was even a chance I'd use it again so It languished in the basement.
. Life hasn't gone entirely according to plan and now I can't even string the bow, so it's time.
Some years later, after I'd moved away from Seattle, I learned that the old archer in the shop in Seattle was named Glenn St Charles and I should have asked him to sign the bow for me.

Moto,
II like to ship in arrow boxes that I buy from a local archery shop. I cut them so that I can glue them together to fit the bow. So it takes a couple. I recommend that you reinorce them with extra carboard. Some guys will ship in plastic tubes, but the tubes roll of of autmatic sorters and seem to get broken more often.

If you're shooting off the shelf then feathers are the way to go, vanes will not fly right off the shelf.
If you're arrows are porpoising they are spined wrong.
Get some 50-55 # arrows at your draw length and put feathers on them, 55-60 may work better if true center shot riser.

Hmm i thought spine was left to right wobble ( fishtail ) and up n down ( porpoise ) was nock point.

thanks for the tips...

moto
how about one of those extendable architect plan tubes or just a strait cardboard shipping tube?

before putting it in the tube wrap the bow in bubble wrap or better yet those white open cell foam sheets.

hookeye,
so looking closely at my new to me bow I noticed:
Seven small dots on the shooter side opposite the shelf.
The dots are between 7 and 13 tenths of an inch above the shelf and are regularly spaced. that is what 0.085x" spacing?
would you imagine that they were put there as a rough sighting/rangeing scale? (by P.O., shop, or factory?)
thanks

edit:
a quick caliper check puts the nocked vane profile at 1.3" for the private label eastons that I have been using...

In the old days reference marks were not allowed in barebow.

Some makers laminated the bows such that " factory " rings were visible. Folks had to tape over them to compete in certain classes

I am not aware of current models having such.
Doesnt mean they aint making them.

Personally, having anything off to the side I find detrimental.

Use a sight pin, or the arrow tip. Anything else is just adding lack of focus.

I suppose one could hold the bow out to figure an aiming point using such marks, see where the arrow tip ends up and then convert to using that tip on that spot.

My eyes/ brain dont like doing that.
My focus is out front.

Got an email.
My new limbs wont be done for a couple months
So its try to run my old bow, or go wheels should my shoulder continue to complain.
Fuggin 2021 still suckin azz

thx.
good info.
they could be laminated in..
they are basically the size of pin pricks, smaller than a pin hole in paper.

Sound advice!

Recurves are usually rated at 28" draw.
Add 2# or so per inch over, sub if under.
Some bows stack at a certain point

My old 58" hoyt huntmaster pretty much stopped at 29".
Proly why the next version was 60".

Dorado riser w/ 35# TT Longs. Also had stock 40# limbs that shot great. Should have kept it. They are getting hard to find now. A rare for me NFAA round with no 3's!