Ok, don’t laugh.

I’ve been slowly getting back into archery over the past few years. Prior was old skool aluminum arrows. It’s been awhile.

Anyway, back in the day we designated arrows for “hunting” then ones for just shooting targets. The “hunting” ones were maybe shot once or twice to check the broadheads then not messed with again.

You guys do the same now? I still number them for whatever reason.

Just wondering, had an interesting conversation with my brother about archery today.

No joke - stepped away from archery from 1997 to 2008-09ish, lost all of my gear to theft and other life events.

Coming back in - yeah, things had changed.

My aluminum arrows that were dinged, rippled plastic fletch, re-straightened etc were my target arrows, and the "perfect" shafts were in the quiver - some of this was economics, and the cost of more arrows...

For me today - I'm still a hunter first, so my target arrows for the most part - are my "old" hunting arrows - and usually have more wear and tear than the hunting arrows I'm carrying in the quiver do, but they are the same shaft and fletch, so no real difference.

But with carbons, there's a lot less to worry about IMHO, the shaft is either good, or it's cracked and trashed, and I do shoot all of my arrows with a broadhead to make sure they fly true.

I absolutely number my arrows, as that one flier in the group - may not be me after all - I've chased a tune only to find out that the flier arrow was weighted wrong, something that slipped through QC.

I also have a Golden Eagle Falcon hanging in the rack - complete with 2117s...just to remind me how far we've come.

About ‘95 for me. Martin Gonzo Safari!

If new to me arrows or a batch I just bought, I will usually refletch to my liking and color combo and then shoot each to make sure that they are all flying true. I will then put my broad heads on and again test each 1 to get my hunting arrows and will generally put into the quiver and save for the season. I only do this so i don't have to refletch or make a new batch right before the season. I don't think it matters as far as a best arrow thing for me as todays arrows are real good.

I build my arrows and check em all before hunting.

Over time I do think carbon arrow spine can degrade so after a moderate amount of shooting make new.

Old arrows get saved for silly stuff.

But hunting and target arrows are always the same, only the good ones.

Carp in the creek near the house? Yeah, grab those dusty ones from the corner. Shoot a piney out of the tree? Dusty boolit.

Had some GT 35/55 i hadnt shot much, changed bows.
Really in good shape.

Tired of em being in the way, gave em to a kid. 11 of em.

16bore - i left compound shooting 25yrs ago, and returned few years back as a longbow shooter. With alum arrows used to fret slight subtle bends, hence practice vs hunting arrows. But with carbon shafts, the suckers shoot (or don’t) but are so resilient, imo i can’t tell any difference between a fresh arrow and a year old arrow, given they are otherwise identical. Quite refreshing. It’s normal to skip a carbon arrow under a 3D target, glance off a rock, etc, and sucker shoots as good as new. Really amazing how that element has changed.

P.s. if a carbon arrow strikes something hard, it won’t hold a bend, but could, if severe enough, crack longitudinally if eber slightly. This could be bad at next launch, as could splinter into the bow hand. So, get in the habit of rapping the arrow against hand, leg, or bow after a strike listening for a rattling sound, indicating a crack. No rattle = carry on. Once you’ve heard it once, you’ll know what i mean. The other, more obvious, issue is hitting rock or say a steel cutout target, and splintering just the shaft tip behind the insert. But, that you should notice easily. In either case we’re talking strikes waaaaay beyond what an alum shaft would have withstood and remained straight.

I do. It sure why.

I do think carbon arrow spine to degrade over time.

Shoot a lot? Buy new now and then

If you’ve every seen a carbon arrow bust up it’s pretty nasty. You don’t want any of it finding it’s way under your skin.

Great advice already, especially from sandcritter about testing arrows. To be extra safe, I give my arrows the old twist-and-bend before and after every shooting session--or after I hear a loud crack when the arrow hits a target frame or something. If you hear any crunching sound, turn that arrow into a tomato stake.

I use the same carbon arrows for hunting and practicing. I love carbon arrows, they are straight or broken.

And if you stump shoot, mostly broken.......

I shoot traditional longbows and recurves in the #50-#54 range and have never considered shooting carbon arrows. Dabbled with aluminum for a couple of years, but really prefer lodgepole pine, Douglas fir or cedar over anything.

Traditional Only carbons footed are tough as nails. I have some that have banged stumps, rocks, fence posts and trees multiple times without a problem.
Easton ACC's are long lasting as well. Multiple kills with same arrow is normal.

I shoot carbon and target practice with hunting broad heads, so arrows are one and the same. Cry once and replace as needed.

This. Only aluminum arrows I shoot are 2712's for indoors.