Since folks have shown Intrest, Ill start with a list of equipment that I use to tune a bow.
1) Bow Press-necessary for installing/changing strings/cables. Also necessary for relaxing tension to make needed string/cable/yoke adjustments. I use a press very similar to the LCA EZ Press that I built myself.
2) Bow Vise or Tuning Fixture-very helpful in holding the bow in an upright position and keeping both hands free to install rest, set centershot, set nock height. Should allow bow to be tilted forward and backwards and tilt side to side. And be able to be locked down once bow is in desired position. I use a PSE tuning fixture that also has a third axis sight setting feature.
3) Quality set of levels so you can level string of bow and your arrow. A quality bow square can also be used. I just prefer the levels.
4) Allen wrenches
5) Draw Board-used to check cam lean at full draw, check cam timing, allow precise draw length measurement where the draw stop contacts the limb or cable. My draw board also allows me to pivot the bow up and down so I can double check 3rd axis adjustment on sights at full draw.
6) Paper Tuning Rack-some argue the need if bareshaft tuning but I like to get things close on paper first.
7) Quality Scale-for measureing peak draw weight and holding weight. Allows me to ensure letoff is within specs
8) Chronograph-allows me to see results when tinkering with speed nock number/location. Allows me to see if bow is performing at rated IBO speed. And just because its the one thing everyone wants to know
9) Block style target-shows true impact angles. Bag targets are great for practice with field points in the back yard, but it wont give true impact angles.

Thanks for starting this. Pics would help me when you start talking about these tools.

I will post them. Im winding down my "days off" and leave for Gulf of Mexico tomorrow evening. This thread will probably go for a while due to my work schedule with my "regular" job. But Ill include plenty pics along the way. Some pics which are for reference only will come from my wifes bow or other bows that are in the shop. Ill also include how to for tieing in d loop, peep sight, and tie in nocking points. Great to learn to do your own work, but also gives those that are curious about what they get when they send a bow off to be tuned, the skinny on what they are paying for. Its not black magic, or secret information. Anyone can do this stuff. Just takes time and the right equipment.

Thanks for the effort/time


I'm fairly handy with most things, but I've been archery hunting for 20 years and while I've done quite well I honestly don't know much about my bow.

Looking forward to this..thanks.

This looks like it has the potential to be a great thread.

Some asked for picks of the tuning equipment I use. Im offshore at the moment, but Ill post what I do have pics of.

This is my PSE tuning fixture/bow vise.

This pic shows it being used as a 3rd axis setting tool.

The in-line bow press I made myself. Saved about $350 over a factory built one.

Draw board. Used for checking cam timing, checking cam lean at full draw, getting actual MEASURED draw length. What you see written on cam or module is never to the point correct

These are the levels I use to level/plumb the string and also level the arrow. Depending on the cam system, it determines if i set arrow dead level or 1/16-1/8" nock high. Again this is a starting point. Results determine if I adjust nock height. More on that later.

Before you remove your old string, locate a repeatable reference point. Measure kisser height(if applicsble) and peep height. Write the measurements down and keep in safe spot. Remove old string/cables. Install new string/cables. Place bow in tuning fixture or bow vise. Use levels to get everything precise.

My bow is a Bowtech Invasion with the OD Binary cam with tuneable yokes. Basically a std 2 cam system. Starting point for nock will be dead level. Hybrid and single cam models i normally start between 1/16 and 1/8" nock high. For this application we want arrow dead level and center of arrow lined up with center of rest mounting hole

When I get back in from work, we'll put the Invasion back on the tuning fixture and check cam pre-lean(the setting that should yield us zero cam lean at full draw). We will also put the bow on the draw board. Record actual measured AMO(Archery Manufacturers Organization) draw length, check cam timing, and check cam lean at full draw. Once cam timing is set(both draw stops touching at exactly same time), go back to tuning fixture and verify proper nock height. I'll cover how to tie a d loop and install tie on nocking points. These eliminate nock pinch.

Excellent info and descriptions! Although I've done most of my own tuning in the past, I have definitely learned from this, and look forward to learning more! Thanks for your time and effort!

As my signature line states, I own/operate my own tuning shop. Gladly tune a bow for anyone that wants it done, but as I have stated, this stuff isnt "trade secrets", or any black magic. Gladly help anyone any way i can.

I would like to see photos of how the cam lean tool works and what it looks like, when being tested. Enjoying this thread and hope to learn a bunch. Thanks.

When I set up to check "prelean" (the amount of cam lean present when bow is at rest) ill measure down 6"(what has proved to be good reference point on MY bow) from where string tracks into the cam and make a mark. Then laying an arrow shaft against the left side of the cam, Ill see if shaft intersects that mark. Then I will check cam lean at full draw with the bow on the draw board. At full draw I should be able to lay the arrow shaft against left side of cam and it remain same distance off the string all the way to the d loop. Again, these are preliminary settings that will be fine tuned according to what arrow flight tells me. Results based tuning.
The draw board is nothing more than a device used to hold the bow while a mechanical device such as a boat winch is used to bring the bow to full draw. Keeps your hands free to take measurements etc. ill put the bow on my tuning fixture/bow vise to do the prelean check. And I will include pics.

Cool setup. I built a press just like that a few years ago. Still haven't started on my draw board. I'd like some closer up pics of yours, especially the holder area, so I can copy it, if you don't mind. Very nice.

The draw board isnt shop built. Purchased it from bowhanger.com. $130

280' the draw board would have to draw in a straight line so as not to give a false impression of a cam lean. I know when I draw my bow and pull my head back and look at the wheel it can appear to lean left or right according to how I apply grip twist.
On a solo cam (Mathews) you are only worried about the lower cam leaning, not the top wheel?

The draw board does draw in a straight line and applies no torque on the grip. Cam lean is then checked by laying an arrow down left side of cam and seeing where it intersects string. On solo cam bows the only static yoke is at top limb. Allows adjustment of idler wheel lean.

And if a cam leans, what do you do?

Lets see how to explain this. The cam on a solocam is how it is. Yoke tune the idler wheel according to what arrow flight tells you. Cant work top and bottom on a solo cam or hybrid cam set up like you can on a dual cam set up with 2 buss cables with static yokes. That is not to say it cant be tuned to the same degree of tuning.

It's still confusing, pictures will help once you get the tuning thread moving.

Got a week and a half left offshore this hitch. Then Ill get to posting pics.

Ok guys, things should be ready to proceed thursday. Ill show how to check prelean, cover tied in nock points, tieing a d loop, and then we will get into checking cam lean at full draw, tie in peep sight, installing rest cord for qad, setting the rest timing, and get started tuning according to what arrow flight dictates

My first step is to set my nocking point. If using a fall away rest, wether it be cable driven or limb driven, the rest must be in the FULLY RAISED position. The center line of the shaft should run even with the center line of the rest mounting/berger button(for folks old enough to remember what a berger button/cushion plunger is) hole in the riser. In the photo you can see I have string level attached and that the string is plumb.


Now I adjust rest height and/or nock height until the arrow centerline/rest mounting center line are aligned and the level in my arrow shaft reads dead level. My bow is a dual cam so the dead level applies. Some other cam systems do better with between 1/16 and 1/8" nock high. Its a trial and error type situation with them.
Once I have my nock height set, I mark my string top and bottom with a silver sharpie. Then its off the tuning jig and over to the press to install my tied in nock points.

As the pic shows, I have my string marked above and below the nock. Take a dab of string wax and put it on the center serving. I then take a piece of serving thread and fold it in half and lay it in the wax. The wax just helps hold the piece of thread in place.

Then I take my thread for my tie in nock(I prefer BCY 3d), lay a tag end on the center serving, make 5-7 wraps around the center serving and the tag end. Once I make my wraps, I insert the end that I used to make my wraps through the loop, and pull through. Believe you fly tiers call that a "nail knot".

There are the finished tied in nock points top and bottom

For those that are curious, I use the loose arrow nock to help keep thread out of my way while tieing the nock points in. At this time the tie in points are still loose. I like to go back to my bow vise, reinstall my levels, and double check everything. Position top tie in nock FIRST. Once its in position and everything reads level, I snug it down. Then position the bottom one and snug it down. I leave one wrap of serving between top tie in nock and arrow nock. Same on bottom. Once the tie in nocks are completed, I go back to my press and install my d loop. I prefer BCY 24(2.0mm) for d loops. I cut a piece 4" long, fray it out on the ends and burn it to form nice "balls". It does take practice to get them right.

Completed tie in nocj points and d loop

This is proper sequence for tieing in a d loop. These pics for demonstration purposes only.

Hunting has eaten up some of my time. Just went back and looked at what you have done. Awesome job explaining the process and photos are perfect.

For solo cams that may need a little higher nock, how can you know before tying in the loop and nock ties?

Also, wondering where you get those levelers?

Thanks for the info 280A

The levels are "RS Levels". Know Cabelas stocks them on the shelves. At least the one down here does. They are also available from Lancaster Archery. Your local shop should be able to order them also. Set should run ~$25. As for adjusting nock height, the tie in points can be done and left a tad bit loose. I tie them in. Then place bow back in the vise and level/plumb the string. Then nock and level arrow. Slide the top tie in nock down the string until it touches arrow and arrow is either dead level or desired amount nock high. Keep arrow in position and tighten tie in nock. This takes practice and a third hand would be helpful. Once top nocking point is secured, move bottom one into place(i like a couple wraps of the center serving visible between bottom of arrow nock and tied in nock to prevent nock pinch) and cinch down. Snip and burn tag ends. After tied in nocking points are secured, tie d loop

I too have been busy lately. Steal a little time here and there to shoot/tune. I have started tuning already but will try to get thread updated more.

+1

Thanks for this thread & your time. I didn't know anything about tuning before. Now I know that I don't know.

I havent covered any adjustments yet that arrow flight tells us we need to make. Once we have nock height set, rest height set, center shot set, I prefer to leave those alone. The only time I adjust center shot after that, is if I have a bow that does not have a tuneable static yoke such as the bows with 2 track binary cam system. If arrow tears left or right(tail left or right with bare shaft), the only way to tune that out is with slight center shot adjustment. High or low tear(provided rest and nock height are set properly), are tuned out with cam timing adjustments. Something else I run across quite a bit are arrow spine issues. Let me offer this...arrow weight in grains per inch has absolutely NOTHING to do with arrow spine. If a .350 spine arrow that weighs 8.2 grains per inch is underspined for your bow, stepping up to a .350 spined arrow that weighs 9.4 gpi is stil underspined. Sounds silly, but I get that quite a bit. Also, varying insert weight, point weight, arrow wraps, lighted nocks, fletching size and type ALL affect arrow spine. Adding weight to the front of an arrow "weakens" spine. Adding weight to the rear of the arrow "stiffens" spine.

Did you plan to continue this thread?

Looks good so far, I picked up the levels at Cabela's while traveling from TX to KC over the holidays.

I apologize for not posting here lately. Been quite busy between work and the like. Ill see if I can get some stuff on tuning the arrow flight on the next bow I get in. With seasons drawing to a close and target season cranking up, i should be getting some more bows in.

In the meantime, please dont hesitate to ask any questions you may have

Am I misunderstanding something, or do you really tear tune using timing adjustments, and not by adjusting the rest? If so, then is this a fairly recent development amongst the general tuning community, or is this something that you have devised on your own? Can you explain the rational behind using this method versus adjusting rest height?

Many thanks in advance!
Scott

Rest height is set and left alone. Certain cam systems tune best with certain nock height settings. True dual cams tune best with nock dead level. Hybrid cam systems with nock about 1/16" high. Solo cam bows from dead level to about 1/16" high. What you are doing when you adjust timing to tune out a high/low tear is adjusting lateral nock travel. That means making nock travel straight. Soley using a rest height adjustment to attempt to tune out a high/low tear isnt solving the problem. Its merely covering it up. Once rest height is set, leave it. Adjust cam timing to get true arrow flight. If adjusting cam timing wont tune out the high/low tear, you have form/grip issues that need to be addressed

Ok, finally got around to bare shaft tuning my Invasion to my new arrows.
Since the last part of this guide is tuning for proper arrow flight, i decided to document my starting point, my finishing point, and how I arrived at final results.

This is where we started. Vertical at 90* to target face. Bare shaft tail right. My bow has Bowtechs OD Binary cams with static yokes. Earlier in the thread we discussed setting cam lean at full draw to zero. To adjust the tear we will use the static yoke on the top limb(bottom limb is left alone). Since the nock is tail right, we need to add a twist to the right side and remove a twist from the left side. Continue the process until this result is achieved

Tag

What about the walk back method
? Do you use it in addition to bare shafts tuning. It seems when I get my centershot adjusted for a good paper tune my bow fails the walk back method. I usually compromise on the paper tuning, because I prefer horizontal alignment from 0-40 yards.

Walk back tuning is a means of fine tuning your windage. Thats up to the shooter. I can get arrow flight perfect, but due to sometimes having to use a different anchoring method due to draw length, i can't fine tune that. I do align the sight windage to where it's in line with string and arrow tip. It's very close. But the shooter will need to tweak it

Thanks and great post. I've been using the same level set-up for a few years and my bow square is just collecting dust.

I have never done any bare shaft tuning but after seeing some of your results on here, will start. Wish I didn't just fletch my last set of shafts!

Ha...I dont even own a bow square. Have no need for it. My levels and a small ruler do everything I need to do. Then it's time to let arrow flight dictate the fine adjustments for perfect bareshaft flight.