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It's still confusing, pictures will help once you get the tuning thread moving.

Got a week and a half left offshore this hitch. Then Ill get to posting pics.

Ok guys, things should be ready to proceed thursday. Ill show how to check prelean, cover tied in nock points, tieing a d loop, and then we will get into checking cam lean at full draw, tie in peep sight, installing rest cord for qad, setting the rest timing, and get started tuning according to what arrow flight dictates

My first step is to set my nocking point. If using a fall away rest, wether it be cable driven or limb driven, the rest must be in the FULLY RAISED position. The center line of the shaft should run even with the center line of the rest mounting/berger button(for folks old enough to remember what a berger button/cushion plunger is) hole in the riser. In the photo you can see I have string level attached and that the string is plumb.


Now I adjust rest height and/or nock height until the arrow centerline/rest mounting center line are aligned and the level in my arrow shaft reads dead level. My bow is a dual cam so the dead level applies. Some other cam systems do better with between 1/16 and 1/8" nock high. Its a trial and error type situation with them.
Once I have my nock height set, I mark my string top and bottom with a silver sharpie. Then its off the tuning jig and over to the press to install my tied in nock points.

As the pic shows, I have my string marked above and below the nock. Take a dab of string wax and put it on the center serving. I then take a piece of serving thread and fold it in half and lay it in the wax. The wax just helps hold the piece of thread in place.

Then I take my thread for my tie in nock(I prefer BCY 3d), lay a tag end on the center serving, make 5-7 wraps around the center serving and the tag end. Once I make my wraps, I insert the end that I used to make my wraps through the loop, and pull through. Believe you fly tiers call that a "nail knot".

There are the finished tied in nock points top and bottom

For those that are curious, I use the loose arrow nock to help keep thread out of my way while tieing the nock points in. At this time the tie in points are still loose. I like to go back to my bow vise, reinstall my levels, and double check everything. Position top tie in nock FIRST. Once its in position and everything reads level, I snug it down. Then position the bottom one and snug it down. I leave one wrap of serving between top tie in nock and arrow nock. Same on bottom. Once the tie in nocks are completed, I go back to my press and install my d loop. I prefer BCY 24(2.0mm) for d loops. I cut a piece 4" long, fray it out on the ends and burn it to form nice "balls". It does take practice to get them right.

Completed tie in nocj points and d loop

This is proper sequence for tieing in a d loop. These pics for demonstration purposes only.

Hunting has eaten up some of my time. Just went back and looked at what you have done. Awesome job explaining the process and photos are perfect.

For solo cams that may need a little higher nock, how can you know before tying in the loop and nock ties?

Also, wondering where you get those levelers?

Thanks for the info 280A

The levels are "RS Levels". Know Cabelas stocks them on the shelves. At least the one down here does. They are also available from Lancaster Archery. Your local shop should be able to order them also. Set should run ~$25. As for adjusting nock height, the tie in points can be done and left a tad bit loose. I tie them in. Then place bow back in the vise and level/plumb the string. Then nock and level arrow. Slide the top tie in nock down the string until it touches arrow and arrow is either dead level or desired amount nock high. Keep arrow in position and tighten tie in nock. This takes practice and a third hand would be helpful. Once top nocking point is secured, move bottom one into place(i like a couple wraps of the center serving visible between bottom of arrow nock and tied in nock to prevent nock pinch) and cinch down. Snip and burn tag ends. After tied in nocking points are secured, tie d loop

I too have been busy lately. Steal a little time here and there to shoot/tune. I have started tuning already but will try to get thread updated more.

+1

Thanks for this thread & your time. I didn't know anything about tuning before. Now I know that I don't know.

I havent covered any adjustments yet that arrow flight tells us we need to make. Once we have nock height set, rest height set, center shot set, I prefer to leave those alone. The only time I adjust center shot after that, is if I have a bow that does not have a tuneable static yoke such as the bows with 2 track binary cam system. If arrow tears left or right(tail left or right with bare shaft), the only way to tune that out is with slight center shot adjustment. High or low tear(provided rest and nock height are set properly), are tuned out with cam timing adjustments. Something else I run across quite a bit are arrow spine issues. Let me offer this...arrow weight in grains per inch has absolutely NOTHING to do with arrow spine. If a .350 spine arrow that weighs 8.2 grains per inch is underspined for your bow, stepping up to a .350 spined arrow that weighs 9.4 gpi is stil underspined. Sounds silly, but I get that quite a bit. Also, varying insert weight, point weight, arrow wraps, lighted nocks, fletching size and type ALL affect arrow spine. Adding weight to the front of an arrow "weakens" spine. Adding weight to the rear of the arrow "stiffens" spine.

Did you plan to continue this thread?

Looks good so far, I picked up the levels at Cabela's while traveling from TX to KC over the holidays.

I apologize for not posting here lately. Been quite busy between work and the like. Ill see if I can get some stuff on tuning the arrow flight on the next bow I get in. With seasons drawing to a close and target season cranking up, i should be getting some more bows in.

In the meantime, please dont hesitate to ask any questions you may have

Am I misunderstanding something, or do you really tear tune using timing adjustments, and not by adjusting the rest? If so, then is this a fairly recent development amongst the general tuning community, or is this something that you have devised on your own? Can you explain the rational behind using this method versus adjusting rest height?

Many thanks in advance!
Scott

Rest height is set and left alone. Certain cam systems tune best with certain nock height settings. True dual cams tune best with nock dead level. Hybrid cam systems with nock about 1/16" high. Solo cam bows from dead level to about 1/16" high. What you are doing when you adjust timing to tune out a high/low tear is adjusting lateral nock travel. That means making nock travel straight. Soley using a rest height adjustment to attempt to tune out a high/low tear isnt solving the problem. Its merely covering it up. Once rest height is set, leave it. Adjust cam timing to get true arrow flight. If adjusting cam timing wont tune out the high/low tear, you have form/grip issues that need to be addressed

Ok, finally got around to bare shaft tuning my Invasion to my new arrows.
Since the last part of this guide is tuning for proper arrow flight, i decided to document my starting point, my finishing point, and how I arrived at final results.

This is where we started. Vertical at 90* to target face. Bare shaft tail right. My bow has Bowtechs OD Binary cams with static yokes. Earlier in the thread we discussed setting cam lean at full draw to zero. To adjust the tear we will use the static yoke on the top limb(bottom limb is left alone). Since the nock is tail right, we need to add a twist to the right side and remove a twist from the left side. Continue the process until this result is achieved

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