My reloading gear set is lacking the ability to anneal my brass. What do you guys use and or technique to anneal your brass? I’m not against spending for one of the automated machines but I am open to any creative ideas you guys have consistent success with.
I've been using a Woodchuck Den anneal tip on a Bernz-o-matic since '02. It's a piece of copper tubing that makes a loop at the end with perforations on the inside to create circumferential points of flame, so no need to rotate the cases. I just insert the necks of each case from below the loop right up to the shoulder, then drop them onto a damp rag when they're done (usually about 7-8 seconds). I use Tempilaq on the first couple of cases to get the timing right. Works for me. YMMV.
I use a simple propane torch with the pencil flame. I use my fingers for my temperature guide. I stick the brass in the flame and watch the color change while slowly twisting the brass. When I start to feel the heat on my fingers, I drop it in a metal coffee can and move to the next piece of brass. No drill and no waiting for the glow.
I've got an annealeez machine. It works really good on long action cartridges but the drive wheels start to melt on short action rounds. The torch has to be too close
I anneal my target rifle brass after every firing for consistency. Use an Amp annealer. It uses computer controlled induction process. I think any other way is such an in-exact sciance
1. Given a used propane tank, that many places won't fill because it is old school... know where to get around that.
2. Given a "A tree" that has multiple hook ups for attaching multiple propane items to one tank.
3. Got an old pair or two of needle nose pliers... rather heat them up than my fingers...
4. Plumbers torch... $6.00 at Grovers.. only money I really spent on the set up besides the propane I filled in the tank.. that original filled lasted me 10 to 12 years...just threw another $10 worth of propane in it a couple months ago..
5. hold case upside down in flame, count to 6 for 223 cases and to 7 or 8 for 243 cases and up..
6. most brass nowadays, anneal each reload. old method was every 4th reload.
7. decorative small bucket from Walmart to drop the brass in, I usually anneal ten to 20 pieces at a time. Let them air cool in the bucket.. that cost me a dollar....
West Virginia hillbilly logic taught me all the above... it works and even Schtick can afford it...
Don't need a $100 to $200 solution to a 10 cent problem.
I use a simple propane torch with the pencil flame. I use my fingers for my temperature guide. I stick the brass in the flame and watch the color change while slowly twisting the brass. When I start to feel the heat on my fingers, I drop it in a metal coffee can and move to the next piece of brass. No drill and no waiting for the glow.
I am far from an expert, and I am not trying to convince anyone to do it the way I do it. After a bunch of internet research and a little personal experience, I settled on an AGS Custom Parts Annealer 3.0 ($280), which is a flame annealer that uses two torch heads. I started off with a one-torch flame annealer, and I found that it took a long time to heat up the bigger magnum cases. Because the two-torch annealer reaches the final anneal temperature faster, less heat migrates to the case head, with the added convenience of speeding the whole process. It is easy enough to use that I anneal after every firing. My one-torch annealer is now reserved for my smaller cases such as 22-250, for which it works fine. I am not saying the AGS 3.0 is the best annealer on the market, but it is very good for my needs and budget as an accuracy-minded hunter.
I use a simple propane torch with the pencil flame. I use my fingers for my temperature guide. I stick the brass in the flame and watch the color change while slowly twisting the brass. When I start to feel the heat on my fingers, I drop it in a metal coffee can and move to the next piece of brass. No drill and no waiting for the glow.
kwg
Been doing it this way since 1958 and have never seen a reason to change. Temp on fingers is about as precise as you can get. I do mine in the shop, all lights out except the torch, necks at the 3/4" blue cone, roll brass in fingers and drop into a bucket of water under the vise where I lock my torch.
I use a simple propane torch with the pencil flame. I use my fingers for my temperature guide. I stick the brass in the flame and watch the color change while slowly twisting the brass. When I start to feel the heat on my fingers, I drop it in a metal coffee can and move to the next piece of brass. No drill and no waiting for the glow.
kwg
Same, except I use a metal paint tray to drop them in
My reloading gear set is lacking the ability to anneal my brass. What do you guys use and or technique to anneal your brass? I’m not against spending for one of the automated machines but I am open to any creative ideas you guys have consistent success with.
I use a Mike’s Reloading Bench annealer and think very highly of it. It’s a shame that he’s not going to be producing any more, but he does have a couple left.
i just do the candle method works fine for hunting brass. but i might start using the torch / drill for my bench rest brass. very good video , thanks for posting,Pete53
I built an amp annealer set up on a timer that anneals to the 10th of a second. When I dial in shooting for groups I can add 1/10 of a second until 500 yard groups tighten up or the proverbial fliers disapear. I've found flame annealers difficult to maintain consistency since the flame always becomes less as the tank empties and adjusting the flame to the same intensity everytime is a bit of a crapshoot
I built an amp annealer set up on a timer that anneals to the 10th of a second. When I dial in shooting for groups I can add 1/10 of a second until 500 yard groups tighten up or the proverbial fliers disapear. I've found flame annealers difficult to maintain consistency since the flame always becomes less as the tank empties and adjusting the flame to the same intensity everytime is a bit of a crapshoot
Trystan
Invent a thermometer that reads the brass, or the tip of the flame,
I've been using the candle method for quite a while now, but I think it's time to move up to the denatured alcohol lamp.
I created a denatured alcohol candle from a meltonian boot polish jar and a tiki wik been working well for 5 years or more. My brass does not look as good as Yukoners though. I don't reload as much as some.
I use a Giraud Annealing Machine and use Templac to get it adjusted. I never annealed until the shortages of 2007-2008. Winchesters QC got so bad that I was loosing brass to neck splits on the first firing. To the tune of 10-12%.