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I am far from an expert, and I am not trying to convince anyone to do it the way I do it. After a bunch of internet research and a little personal experience, I settled on an AGS Custom Parts Annealer 3.0 ($280), which is a flame annealer that uses two torch heads. I started off with a one-torch flame annealer, and I found that it took a long time to heat up the bigger magnum cases. Because the two-torch annealer reaches the final anneal temperature faster, less heat migrates to the case head, with the added convenience of speeding the whole process. It is easy enough to use that I anneal after every firing. My one-torch annealer is now reserved for my smaller cases such as 22-250, for which it works fine. I am not saying the AGS 3.0 is the best annealer on the market, but it is very good for my needs and budget as an accuracy-minded hunter.

[Linked Image from photos.smugmug.com]


Here it is in action in a darkened room:

[img]https://photos.smugmug.com/202...5432-4291237505415774645--1920.mp4[/img]


AGS website:

https://agscustomparts.com/product/ags-brass-annealer-3/

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I fire up the Bench Source and feed it until I'm done. Easy Pezee...


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Originally Posted by kwg020
I use a simple propane torch with the pencil flame. I use my fingers for my temperature guide. I stick the brass in the flame and watch the color change while slowly twisting the brass. When I start to feel the heat on my fingers, I drop it in a metal coffee can and move to the next piece of brass. No drill and no waiting for the glow.

kwg

Been doing it this way since 1958 and have never seen a reason to change. Temp on fingers is about as precise as you can get. I do mine in the shop, all lights out except the torch, necks at the 3/4" blue cone, roll brass in fingers and drop into a bucket of water under the vise where I lock my torch.


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Originally Posted by ldholton
Ugly Annealer .. I will put some pictures up of mine and how it's set up as soon as I get somewhere with enough phone signal to do so..

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]boracay wallpaper
[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]
[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]temari wallpaper


[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

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https://www.littlecrowgunworks.com/store1/Rifle-Brass-Annealing-Mandrels-c32941141

Gonna go with that and get a trimmer while I’m at it.

Last edited by woodson; 03/17/23.
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AMP

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Originally Posted by devnull
AMP

That’s what I want.



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Originally Posted by kwg020
I use a simple propane torch with the pencil flame. I use my fingers for my temperature guide. I stick the brass in the flame and watch the color change while slowly twisting the brass. When I start to feel the heat on my fingers, I drop it in a metal coffee can and move to the next piece of brass. No drill and no waiting for the glow.

kwg

Same, except I use a metal paint tray to drop them in

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Originally Posted by woodson
My reloading gear set is lacking the ability to anneal my brass. What do you guys use and or technique to anneal your brass? I’m not against spending for one of the automated machines but I am open to any creative ideas you guys have consistent success with.

I use a Mike’s Reloading Bench annealer and think very highly of it. It’s a shame that he’s not going to be producing any more, but he does have a couple left.

https://www.mikesreloadingbench.com/mrb2018_006.htm

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I don’t

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i just do the candle method works fine for hunting brass. but i might start using the torch / drill for my bench rest brass. very good video , thanks for posting,Pete53


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Drill and torch for me.



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I built an amp annealer set up on a timer that anneals to the 10th of a second. When I dial in shooting for groups I can add 1/10 of a second until 500 yard groups tighten up or the proverbial fliers disapear. I've found flame annealers difficult to maintain consistency since the flame always becomes less as the tank empties and adjusting the flame to the same intensity everytime is a bit of a crapshoot


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Originally Posted by Trystan
I built an amp annealer set up on a timer that anneals to the 10th of a second. When I dial in shooting for groups I can add 1/10 of a second until 500 yard groups tighten up or the proverbial fliers disapear. I've found flame annealers difficult to maintain consistency since the flame always becomes less as the tank empties and adjusting the flame to the same intensity everytime is a bit of a crapshoot


Trystan

Invent a thermometer that reads the brass, or the tip of the flame,

You’ll be famous.

That AGS for under 300 looks interesting.

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Originally Posted by Son_of_the_Gael
I've been using the candle method for quite a while now, but I think it's time to move up to the denatured alcohol lamp.

I created a denatured alcohol candle from a meltonian boot polish jar and a tiki wik been working well for 5 years or more. My brass does not look as good as Yukoners though. I don't reload as much as some.

Good luck and shoot straight y'all

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Originally Posted by ldholton
Originally Posted by ldholton
Ugly Annealer .. I will put some pictures up of mine and how it's set up as soon as I get somewhere with enough phone signal to do so..

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]boracay wallpaper
[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]
[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]temari wallpaper


[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]
What kind of setup is that on your propane tank?
rookie


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I use a Giraud Annealing Machine and use Templac to get it adjusted. I never annealed until the shortages of 2007-2008. Winchesters QC got so bad that I was loosing brass to neck splits on the first firing. To the tune of 10-12%.


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12mm deep drive socket, cordless drill & a blowtorch.
Lights out. Count of 6 or until there barely a glow, then dump into a bucket of water.

Cos I'm poor.

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You don't need the water.

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Deep socket, drill, dump cases on a welding blanket.


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