After using a Redding T-7 press since they released it 20-odd years ago, I actually bought a Co-Ax press several months ago.

Playing with it for about an hour or so tonight to see if it will work with my 45-110, I got wondering if I really like this press or prefer the T-7? It isn't that it's a bad press, but it seems somewhat awkward for me in using it....not really sure how else to explain it. I want to like it....but I have mixed feeling on it.

Any of you guys that have a Co-Ax, was it: "this is the best thing since sliced bread" right away? or was it "I'll learn to like it" and wound up liking it? Or: "I prefer using my previous press over the Co-Ax"?

Got 6 of them bolted to my bench, other than 2 ponsness warren metallic II, there the only presses I use

Tried a Co-ax and did not like it, I have two Ponsness Warren presses a Metalmatic and a P200. Both serve me very well, I leave them set-up and never have to fool with them must sit down and load.

I'll never go back to the Rock Chuckers I used for years.

Much prefer the co-ax.....I installed LED lights under the top frame.

The primer seater is very good on the co-ax and on the Forster
priming tool.

I had to learn to like mine, but is what I use most of the time now. It's definitely a little awkward when you're used to a more traditional O-frame press where components get loaded in from the side, vs from the front on the Co-Ax. Forster makes a great press though, if you use it a while it will probably grow on you.

Unless one is doing something that takes a lot of force the shorter handle makes the Co-Ax much more user friendly also..

My Rockchucker instantly began gathering dust after I bought my Co-Ax. Loved it right away. I've heard of others not liking it, especially if they've been using a press where they can come into it from the side, like an O-frame press or the T-7

Thanks for the insight guys......

What I plan to do is convert the shell holder back over and load some 22-250 and see how I really like it. Maybe spending time actually loading will help me get used to it.

For the 30 or so years I've been reloading with a press, it always been a turret.... starting with a Texan T-101 Loadmaster, then a short time with a Lyman Turret and finally my T-7; so probably I just need to just spend more time with it.

If not, maybe in 10 or so years my nephews will be ready to get into reloading and they will have a new press waiting for them

I've used a Co-Ax for loading rifle ammo for about thirty years. Seldom have I had a runout problem with any handloads; whether I've just been fortunate or this can be attributed to the floating die setup of the Co-Ax, I don't know.

The instances have been few and far between, but but over the years I've found at least a couple of things that are better performed on a single stage press - like swaging the primer pocket crimp from GI brass.

I still load handgun ammo on a '60s Texan turret press, but see no reason why the Co-Ax wouldn't work fine for such use.

Never cared for priming cases on a press until I bought the Co-Ax. Works well with adequate "feel".

Any fear of knocking a case of powder over while seating bullets before the jaws clamp the rim? And how well do the jaws clamp for pulling bullets?

I used a Rockchucker for years without complaint, but decided to try a Co-Ax about ten years ago and never looked back---except that I found that certain things cannot be done on the Co-Ax. What I love about the press is its precision and the ease of changing out dies. The shellholder system is something I sometimes don't like so much, and that's because of the PITA it is to change over for loading .222/.223/.357 Mag but I DO like not having to screw with conventional shell holders. I put a short handle on mine and I found it to be a real improvement. When I want to be 110% positive that primer seating is perfect, I use the priming system.

For those tasks that simply can't be performed on the Co-Ax, I bought a cheap Lee press (truly a piece of schidt through and through) and promptly traded it for a stick of gum or something. I found a good deal on a Rockchucker Jr, problem solved.

I've spilled a case ot two on my Co-Ax, but in truth I can be just as much a klutz on a conventional press.

I think you MIGHT be able to pull bullets with a collet-style puller on the Co-Ax, but I'm not sure about that. Bullet pulling is one of those tasks I bought a Rockchucker Jr to do. I also wanted to be able to use a stuck case remover (but only once about every 80 years) and a primer pocket swager.

I had to be careful concerning powder sill when I first got my Co-Ax press. My fat fingers would occasionally bump the case as I was letting go and dump the powder. What I do now is put bullets in the cases while in the loading block then hold onto the case and bullet with my left hand while pulling the handle with the right. When the jaws clamp I let go. Maybe better ways, but that is what I came up with.

As far as the jaw strength goes, a couple months ago I had a case get stuck in the die. While trying to push the handle up the rim of the case sheered off before the jaws failed. They held tight.

Could you lower the handle until the jaws close, then put the bullet in the case mouth on its way up? Or would the handle then be in the way? Pulling bullets on it isn't a big deal as I'd still have a RS3 and/or Lee Classic Cast press. Brownells has $30 off and free shipping, which has me thinking...

I'm like a lot of others. I'm been working from the left side of my Rock Chucker for years. Turned my co-ax on an angle facing me, helped a lot. I've only been using the co-ax a couple of months but I really like it. Hasbeen

sackett

I have 2 of them. One about 20 years old and a "new one" about 5 years. Have loaded thousands of rounds on them. No issues.

I have one mounted on apiece o 2X6 that I can clamp to a table and load at the range. When I was shooting BR I loaded at the range between relays. My ammo was always competitive.

Good presses.

LC

Do the Forster lock rings work better than other brands in the Co-Ax?

Sorta but it's not a big deal, most brands work fine.

On mine, I backed out the spring for the lock ring detent ball; don't need it and it lets the dies self-align better. That detent is the only thing that may be an issue with other brands of lock rings, but you don't need to use it.

Redding lock rings are okay, but I don't like the way RCBS and the other manufacturers' lock rings work with the Co-Ax. Being a bit anal about such things, I've spent quite a bit on Forster lock rings. I've bought about around 80 of them. If you buy them by the dozen you save a bit of bread.

I've using one for 30 + years. Mine is the original Bonanza Co-ax and I wouldn't trade it for an other. I pull bullets on mine with zero problems. I prefer using the Forester/Bonanza Possum style puller in mine.

Forester bullet puller

I've had 3 problems with mine

Pulling bullets, my regular collet puller does not work, well maybe it will but I haven't figured out how yet Had to cut the handle off the top of the puller in order to try and tighten onto the bullet with a wrench, but still didn't work

My 22-250 seater came with an "extended shell holder" and the automatic case head holder will not hold it. Thinking about just taking the shell plate off and setting it on the press itself

Loading my 338RUM, can't get the loaded case out without partially pulling the die out of the press

But haven't had it long enough, will figure it out

I have the rcbs summit. I got mine on super sale out of the cabelas bargain cave on a whim to try somthing new. It's been great so far, only thing I haven't tried is the bullet puller, which I could see being a problem. I like it because of the smaller foot print and less torque on my bench. My rock chucker is going to be sold at the next gun show probably.

What problem do you have with them, and is it because of the ball detent I mentioned above?

I use lock rings from all of the common manufacturers, and have no issues with any of them except a very old RCBS or Redding set that was just too thick for the slot.

Just don't like em, that's all.

OK fellers, I just bought one and the short handle.

It's pretty simple really.

Check your ammo to see how straight it is - when I moved to the co-ax it improved, so done deal... it did tighten up my groups at 600 to 1000 yards.

All good.

I messed with it a little more. Got a little more comfortable. I did find that I wanted the short handle (bought one on e-bay for $ 17 in my door), so hopefully that will help as well. When I built my present table, I made it a little taller because I typically stand for the press operations and found a comfortable T-7 usage height. With the co-ax, the handle is much higher, so hopefully the shortie handle will help as well.

It does.. .

I tried the long and hated it - I'm not even sure why they put them on it.

the short one with the ball on the end is what I have, and it works fine.

http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com...review-of-forster-co-ax-reloading-press/


Take a look at this.

Aww, man...there goes another $34.00!

There is a couple of nice accessories for the co-ax on that page. Already have a short handle but I believe I might like that off set one. Hasbeen

Midway carries those too.

YES!....Same here!

I just graduated from an old Hornady 007 press that I've used for about thirty years to my new Co-Ax. Love it. It produces nice straight ammo with less runout. I like the primer seater for making fussy precision ammo. It's not as nice to seat bullets with as the old style press, but seats 'em straight!

I went from a redding t7 to RCBS and now to the Co-Ax.

Hands down I like the Co-Ax the best though I did keep my RCBS for when I full length size cases every 4th or 5th firing right after I anneal brass.

Someone who likes full length sizing everytime may not appreciate the Co-Ax as much as some of the other presses.







Trystan

Why? Having used a Co-Ax for about 10 years now, I've never encountered any reason to make the statement you made.

If anything, the Co-Ax is a little easier than many others for heavy sizing jobs.

Love my Co-Ax.

I have loaded up to 500-3 1/4" nitro no problems.

Don't like the primimg feature, prefer a benchmounted RCBS Auto Primer for that.

Happy reloading, Chris

As for the pure strength of a Co-Ax, there was something in a Forster ad some time ago (or perhaps in the paperwork that came with the press) regarding this.

Reportedly, Forster ran a handful of fired & unlubed .300 H&H cases through a sizing die without incident.

I've been a Co-ax user for about 25 years. I got it after going through about a dozen presses looking for one that produced no run-out in loaded ammo, and indexing those others along the way for straightness. I don't believe there is just one press that is perfect for everything. I still use 5 different presses. The Lyman Orange Crusher was the best of the "O" style presses for producing straight ammo, and I still use it and the RCBS Rock Chucker for some loading and certain jobs, such as bullet pulling. Problem with most of the presses is that they are put together with parts machined and bought from various vendors and there's just a bunch of slop in all the machined surfaces and threads when the press is finally put together. Those loose tolerances can compound, or reduce straightness. When I discovered that is when I went to the Co-ax. I use a Dillon 650 for pistol ammo and a Lee O press for loading at a range, which is usually a waste of material and time for me.

The biggest problem with the Co-ax is the die lock rings you use. The die has to be perfectly perpendicular in the boss. If the threads in dies and lock rings have too much tolerance and the lock rings don't secure properly and squarely in the mating threads, the die will be canted and you'll not have straight ammo. I only use Forster or Lyman lock rings that can be clamped on the threads. I've had to flip those rings a couple of times to insure the die and rings are perfectly square. Too many issues with the rings that lock with a set screw.

If you just want the ammo to go "bang", any press will do. If you strive for perfect reloads you eliminate a lot of problems with the Co-ax. Yes, when I got mine I thought it was the best thing since sliced bread. It would be the last press I'd get rid of. It all depends on what is important to you.

Im not saying the Co-Ax doesnt size cases just fine. It works great. However Ive found at least with Redding sizing dies if I want to bump the shoulder it wont do it useing the universal shell holder the press comes with. The universal shell setup holds the case to low and the press will bottom out before you reach the shoulder. I ordered the standard shell holder attachment but for me its a pain in the ass to have to attach it and then take it back off. For me it was easier to just leave my RCBS rockchucker set up so i dont have to continually swap components.



Trystan

Im not saying the Co-Ax doesnt size cases just fine. It works great. However Ive found at least with Redding sizing dies if I want to bump the shoulder it wont do it useing the universal shell holder the press comes with. The universal shell setup holds the case to low and the press will bottom out before you reach the shoulder. I ordered the standard shell holder attachment but for me its a pain in the ass to have to attach it and then take it back off. For me it was easier to just leave my RCBS rockchucker set up so i dont have to continually swap components.



Trystan [/quote

that's why I have 6 Co ax bolted to my bench, don't need to change the shell holder

Interesting, thanks for explaining. I've never encountered that myself, I think my plates hold the shell at the same height as RCBS shellholders, but I'm sure there's some variation there.

I agree on the shell holder attachment for the Forster; I bought one when i got the press because it seemed like a good idea, but I never use it, it's kind of a pain.

Would someone please explain the "floating die" theory? Is the die not tightened in the slot? If not, how is it secured in the slot? I just don't quite get that.

Thanks

It just slides in the slot, and is located vertically by the lock ring. The die is not screwed into the press.

It's nice to see someone who can articulate the much-vaunted "lock ring problem" with this press.

On the set screw type, have you tried raising the ram to put upwards pressure on the die before tightening the lock ring? That can be done with a case in the die of course.

This is what idea when setting a die up for the first time.

Been a long time for me and don't remember how I came to my conclusions, or what I tried, but one conclusion was that the set screw type rings were inconsistent and the others were not. Simple answer was to dump the set screw rings for the Lymans and Forsters. Besides, if the die canted with the other rings there had to be an inherent mismatch that could revert under certain circumstances, or just hard use. Preferred to set the dies up once, be certain, and not have to chase problems later. Thanks for the compliment.

I've been eyeballing the Co-Ax and similar presses and I have a question. I use the Redding Competition shell-holder set for shoulder setback. How do you do it with the Co-Ax style press? Is it just trial and error; or, better stated, trial then measure and work your way back and then leave the die set there? Thanks in advance.

I don't think I quite understand the issue or the question?

I swap out the shell holder adapter and install a best guess Redding Competition shell holder. Typically but not necessarily I'll start guessing what I expect to be long and get shorter to avoid getting the case too short in the process.

I do find that spring back and maybe work hardening mean that I don't get best results by progressively shortening the same case.

Rather I will use a different case with each shell holder change until set.

Results vary dramatically between body dies, full length sizing dies and small base body dies and small base full length sizing dies. Range scrap and commercial once fired brass, maybe machine gun? typically shows some variation from one case to the next after sizing. I try to be sensitive to case head burrs.

Once set for a lot of brass I don't hesitate to return to a previous setup of shell holder and die adjustment and expect good enough results. I am not measuring head to datum ring to half a tenth.

I use a T-7 to hold the several Redding Instant Indicators so that there is no question of going back and forth between the sizing die and the indicator.

If I had to swap Instant Indicator dies with case sizing dies while swapping shell holders I wouldn't much.