If I recall correctly,Chris and someone else has. Had two pards end up with wonkie ones from The Sample List. I doubt I barely have a dozen of them in service,but have always pinned magnification at 4x to align erector with windshield and drive them as Illuminated Fixed Fhuqkers. Hint.
These were slated to a trio of stripped lowers,I have blowing in the wind and I ain't aspooked,as I've flogged on mine rather goodly. Hint..............
I've had two that had issues. First was bought off the sample list and would not focus. The replacement worked fine for all of a couple trips to the hills (used on an AR-15) and then the magnification ring seized up. Pulled it off and sent it back and the third has been peachy through a few hundred rounds. Only complaint was most of this went down during covid and sometimes it took a while to get a replacement. Not blaming SWFA for that, but it was still a mild nuisance.
Any break a 1x4 SWFA? Have several but not shot them enough to see how they hold up
Acquaintance had a turret push in the tube when it fell over while leaning against something. From what I understand it wasn't a hard landing, just slipping over.
They don't have the "OK for 50 Caliber" note that most of the SWFA's do.
I ordered a 10x yesterday along with several pairs of rings and a few levels......tough to beat for the $.
Illuminatti's wear a 16A ocular and 02A objective. Hint.
As the 10x and 12x Fixed Fhuqkers go,there is an optical hit in the magnification increase and that's to be expected,when sharing like mechanical attributes and coatings. Such things are obviously noticeable,but the 12x is doable and it's reticle is easy to shoot "through". Jump to 16x and 20x,then doors REALLY start to slam shut optically,along with big hits in erector travel. Less is sooooooo very much more there and Physics is yet again reassuring. Hint.
For the meager asking price,the 10x MQ will end up blowing alotta minds,as dissenters will finally get to taste a scope that behaves correctly mechanically and that will be liberating,which will change tunes. Tap if you must,cross fingers if you like,but beware...the fhuqking things are gonna reliably do that which you've neverexperienced and there's NO stopping them,which is THE fhuqking point. Pad inclination more than a bunch( I want a minimum of 70MOA on a straight rifle) and live a little,with 40 Mil's of available erector travel and 10 more obviously on the windshield,for 50 Mil ele corrections,from a sane zero. Hint.
Any break a 1x4 SWFA? Have several but not shot them enough to see how they hold up
I have one currently riding my scope-killer Mini-14. If it survives there, I’ll call it good. Nearing the 200-round mark.
Really like it otherwise, especially on sale.
Does the diamond illuminate bright enough for midday use?
Mine’s not, certainly not against all backgrounds. At 8:30 this morning, with it cranked up to 10, it showed red against a tree trunk in direct sunlight, but black against anything lighter, like the concrete birdbath in my backyard. However, when I “killed” a grackle on that birdbath, the reticle was clearly red against it. For dependable, all-lighting visibility, you’ll probably pay more, and maybe not get it even then. Then there’s the issue of some being too bright for night use……
This one works fine for my puposes. The fine center dot makes aiming small easy, provided the target color is suitable. The larger diamond is good for fast pickup. I could see one on a woods rifle or a .22 plinker as well as blasters like the Mini. I like my Trijicons better, but it didn’t cost anywhere near Trijicon money.
AFAIK, they're substantially the same reticle design, except one measures in Milradian and the other in MOA. All of my SWFA's are in Mil.
The main thing is that the reticle jives with the adjustment system. I use both systems, but prefer Mil based systems. Seems more intuitive and quicker to navigate a 1:10 system. Likewise, you get 5 mil per spin with the mil based classics, which, to me, is easier to work with than the 15 MOA per spin the MOA version gives.
AFAIK, they're substantially the same reticle design, except one measures in Milradian and the other in MOA. All of my SWFA's are in Mil.
The main thing is that the reticle jives with the adjustment system. I use both systems, but prefer Mil based systems. Seems more intuitive and quicker to navigate a 1:10 system. Likewise, you get 5 mil per spin with the mil based classics, which, to me, is easier to work with than the 15 MOA per spin the MOA version gives.
Agreed, I’ve never seen a car with MPH on the speedometer and KM on the odometer.
It depends how you were raised. MOA is easier to an American carpenter who has used a standard tape measure his whole life. I’m used to calculating in 0.25 inches. Dialing a correction in at 0.36 inches per click (1/10milrad) takes to long to do the math. Or at 1,000yd, 2.5 inches and 3.6inches respectively.
AFAIK, they're substantially the same reticle design, except one measures in Milradian and the other in MOA. All of my SWFA's are in Mil.
The main thing is that the reticle jives with the adjustment system. I use both systems, but prefer Mil based systems. Seems more intuitive and quicker to navigate a 1:10 system. Likewise, you get 5 mil per spin with the mil based classics, which, to me, is easier to work with than the 15 MOA per spin the MOA version gives.
Agreed, I’ve never seen a car with MPH on the speedometer and KM on the odometer.
It depends how you were raised. MOA is easier to an American carpenter who has used a standard tape measure his whole life. I’m used to calculating in 0.25 inches. Dialing a correction in at 0.36 inches per click (1/10milrad) takes to long to do the math. Or at 1,000yd, 2.5 inches and 3.6inches respectively.
What type of tape measure you’re used to shouldn’t make any difference. You’re not quite there yet if you’re still making corrections based on inches, or any other rectilinear measure, rather than thinking purely in angular units.
I also grew up building with tape measures in inches and feet, and using scopes that adjusted in MOA. While I’m fluent in both, scopes with MRAD increments are simply more intuitive than MOA-based scopes, at least the way they’ve always been designed.
Alright, just for sh*ts & giggles, I bought a SS 1-4x24.
Is this another one of those deals where I wait a year for the scope to ship?
That is tempting at that price. I hate to enable their BS practice of selling what the don’t have, but…
I’ve never known SWFA to BS folks about their stock. Yes, the SS scopes are often on “backorder”, but they’ve been pretty honest (at least, for the last few years) about when they are “in stock”, vs when they are “backorder status”.
As Illumination goes,The Illuminatti isn't dependent upon literal illumination,for a couple few reasons. One being it's magnification range. The second being it's reticle design. Lastly,because it is SFP. Which is why I pin 'em to 4x and drive same as mentioned prior. Hint.
Now as light falls,The Illumanitti's are certainly capable of shedding light on the subject. Pun intended. Their design wasn't to crossover as a Red Dot,for the above cited mechanical reasons and that "concession" don't hurt production. It is FAST and that don't suck. Hint.
I am VERY fhuqking "Surprised!" that Poor Poor(literally) Paula,is Too Fhuqking Stupid to call and get a person on the phone and query whether the scope she can't afford,is in stock or not. That's some "cutting edge" Shopping "abilities" there and I reckon she'd need to bump chin strap tightness about (2) notches,to even attempt same. Cross fingers for her and KNOW that her helmet ain't False Advertisement. Hint. Fhuqking LAUGHING!
As to MOA/MilQuad,it's akin between "choosing" betwixt a Schit Sandwich or a Burger. MOA is a convoluted Fairy Tale,while NOTHING is more intuitive than a lineal angular Milscale. As subtensions go,the MOA reticle is easy to get lost in,because it is so faint/fine in comparison. MQ subtensions are thicker and vastly superior in cited examples of each. Pardon my shooting it all. Hint.
Now as to some STUPID Drooling Clueless Fhuqk,trying to apply "Math Conversion" where there is none,that is funnier than fhuqk! Read that again. Now one more time. Hint. Fhuqking LAUGHING!
The milscale has NO "conversion" requisite,nor do you need to "learn" a new "language" or anything else. It is simply a Base Ten lineal angular scale and that in itself,is it's majestic and unrivaled beauty. DOPE is simply ran in erector value,which equates to reticle value(1/10th Mil) and ALL corrections,whether elevation,drift or lead,are simply applied as same. You can take your shoes and socks off if you want and try REALLY hard to fhuqk same up,but I would not. Hint.
The reticle(10x MQ). Hint.
Dope. Hint.
Now which one of you Drooling CLUELESS Fhuqks,can botch the simplistic application of same?!? Just by simply looking through the fhuqking thing and the cited 50yd zero with Eley EPS,240yds is a breeze. Why? There's 10 Mil's of etched correction on the windshield. A 10mph full value interference is but 2.4 Mil's of correction and easily doable,upon the magnificent reticle. That grants serious business in 20mph Full Value,with the reticle alone. Wind impetus is lineal,at ANY given distance. 500yds is hardly "daunting" and only a 29.7 Mil correction. You can dial 20 and hold 9.7 or ANY fhuqking combination of same and that's where the boolit will go. Full Value wind there,is only 4.7 Mil's and the deed is done. Hint.
I actually run Rimfire DOPE in 10yd increments,because of it's lineal base ten values. HINT.
Note,there was no "conversion",shoes and socks stayed on and it takes but only seconds to apply,as per whim. Read that again. Now one more time. Hint.
The Astute can know break wind values down and use same as a Wind Finder. You dialed crosshair intersection at 200yds for a 7.4 Mil elevation input and guessed wind at Full Value (10mph) but were .2 Mil's right? Now you KNOW it was blowing 11 MPH. The only thing you "converted" was a Guess,into a KNOW. Hint.
What else can't you Amazingly STUPID Fhuqks not do,besides operate a phone and keep your shoes on? Hint.
Big Stick you wouldn't happen to have a chart like that for 17 HMR would you? Or point me in the direction of the ballistic app you use. I have a SS10x42MQ side focus on the way and it's going on my HMR.
AFAIK, they're substantially the same reticle design, except one measures in Milradian and the other in MOA. All of my SWFA's are in Mil.
The main thing is that the reticle jives with the adjustment system. I use both systems, but prefer Mil based systems. Seems more intuitive and quicker to navigate a 1:10 system. Likewise, you get 5 mil per spin with the mil based classics, which, to me, is easier to work with than the 15 MOA per spin the MOA version gives.
Agreed, I’ve never seen a car with MPH on the speedometer and KM on the odometer.
It depends how you were raised. MOA is easier to an American carpenter who has used a standard tape measure his whole life. I’m used to calculating in 0.25 inches. Dialing a correction in at 0.36 inches per click (1/10milrad) takes to long to do the math. Or at 1,000yd, 2.5 inches and 3.6inches respectively.
What type of tape measure you’re used to shouldn’t make any difference. You’re not quite there yet if you’re still making corrections based on inches, or any other rectilinear measure, rather than thinking purely in angular units.
I also grew up building with tape measures in inches and feet, and using scopes that adjusted in MOA. While I’m fluent in both, scopes with MRAD increments are simply more intuitive than MOA-based scopes, at least the way they’ve always been designed.
Jordan and BS gave great explanations, as usual. I used imperial measurements as a builder for many years. Still do a lot of hands on building. Mil is an easier angular representation to work through no matter how you learned to measure.
Best thing you can say about MOA is that it gets the job done. However, like BDC's, custom marked turrets, SFP's, etc, there's simpler and, by extension, quicker ways to accomplish the goal of consistently hitting far away targets.
Big Stick you wouldn't happen to have a chart like that for 17 HMR would you? Or point me in the direction of the ballistic app you use. I have a SS10x42MQ side focus on the way and it's going on my HMR.
AFAIK, they're substantially the same reticle design, except one measures in Milradian and the other in MOA. All of my SWFA's are in Mil.
The main thing is that the reticle jives with the adjustment system. I use both systems, but prefer Mil based systems. Seems more intuitive and quicker to navigate a 1:10 system. Likewise, you get 5 mil per spin with the mil based classics, which, to me, is easier to work with than the 15 MOA per spin the MOA version gives.
Agreed, I’ve never seen a car with MPH on the speedometer and KM on the odometer.
It depends how you were raised. MOA is easier to an American carpenter who has used a standard tape measure his whole life. I’m used to calculating in 0.25 inches. Dialing a correction in at 0.36 inches per click (1/10milrad) takes to long to do the math. Or at 1,000yd, 2.5 inches and 3.6inches respectively.
What type of tape measure you’re used to shouldn’t make any difference. You’re not quite there yet if you’re still making corrections based on inches, or any other rectilinear measure, rather than thinking purely in angular units.
I also grew up building with tape measures in inches and feet, and using scopes that adjusted in MOA. While I’m fluent in both, scopes with MRAD increments are simply more intuitive than MOA-based scopes, at least the way they’ve always been designed.
Jordan and BS gave great explanations, as usual. I used imperial measurements as a builder for many years. Still do a lot of hands on building. Mil is an easier angular representation to work through no matter how you learned to measure.
Best thing you can say about MOA is that it gets the job done. However, like BDC's, custom marked turrets, SFP's, etc, there's simpler and, by extension, quicker ways to accomplish the goal of consistently hitting far away targets.
Once I realized that you could get/make a drop chart that is in Mil or MOA and nothing about inches/meters/arshins, it "clicked" (Bad pun).
Milradians much easier to adjust with.
For instance:
Federal 30-06 at 400 yards with a 180 gr Nosler Partition with a 100 yd zero.
Drop 7.7 MOA or 2.3 mil.
Much easier to just click 23 times versus mentally calculating 7.7 X 4 = 30.8 and clicking up 31 times.
I wouldn't even look at the vertical drop distance. I don't care. It doesn't make any difference.
Same thing if I wanted to hold over instead of dialing. Hold over just slightly less than the 2.5 mill hash mark.
My only problem is finding a good dialing mil scope that doesn't weigh over 20 oz.
Big Stick you wouldn't happen to have a chart like that for 17 HMR would you? Or point me in the direction of the ballistic app you use. I have a SS10x42MQ side focus on the way and it's going on my HMR.
I've never heard of that scope. Hint.(grin)
"JBM" was eluded to and that was where/how the above data was generated. Good info in,never don't equal GREAT info out. All of my Hummers wear sumptin' MQ,whether it my Garrows,Anschutz 1717D HB,Custom 77/22 Hummer,CZ 452 or a slight deviation of the path ala Barken Arkin on my Vudoo Hummer. 'Course lotsa them on RAR's in these parts too. A smidge of The Herd. Hint.
Assuming an MQ reticle/erector,I don't even use a chronograph any more and leap right to Ballistics AE. That goes for the last coupla dozen new rifles,as a minimum. Simply gun a Zero suited to said chambering and it's bullet,run something generic and with but a coupla shots down range and ideally near it's Transonic Slip,shoot said data. Use the reticle to quantify the correction,push a button and ALL is aligned to said distance. I LOVE the 17HMR,but 22LR transitions much better and behaves MUCH better beyond the Transonic Slip(if there even is one in 22LR). So at Long Range,the 22LR will simply DESTROY a Hummer and that's before ammo consistency is extrapolated. Hint.
Just sayin'.................
Crow',
You NEED to forget,everything you "think" you fhuqking "know". Simply take notes and apply same. Hint.
Firstly,you can't dial 7.7 MOA nor 30.8 "clicks". Secondly,it may be 2497 seconds before Noon,but it's simply "20 after 11:00". On a MQ reticle,you'll never need to count more than TWO fhuqking "clicks". Dial whole or .5 mil's as indicated upon the turret and you will NEVER need to count more than TWO,in order to arrange a solution mechanically. Hint.
AFAIK, they're substantially the same reticle design, except one measures in Milradian and the other in MOA. All of my SWFA's are in Mil.
The main thing is that the reticle jives with the adjustment system. I use both systems, but prefer Mil based systems. Seems more intuitive and quicker to navigate a 1:10 system. Likewise, you get 5 mil per spin with the mil based classics, which, to me, is easier to work with than the 15 MOA per spin the MOA version gives.
Agreed, I’ve never seen a car with MPH on the speedometer and KM on the odometer.
It depends how you were raised. MOA is easier to an American carpenter who has used a standard tape measure his whole life. I’m used to calculating in 0.25 inches. Dialing a correction in at 0.36 inches per click (1/10milrad) takes to long to do the math. Or at 1,000yd, 2.5 inches and 3.6inches respectively.
Folks new to mil reticles have a hard time grasping that you don’t care how many inches in an MRAD. It is simply irrelevant. You dial or hold your DOPE in mils, not inches. Same with MOA. You dial or hold your DOPE in MOA, not inches. Mils are very intuitive because it’s base 10 in nature. The only ruler you need is right in front of your eye in the reticle.
Don’t know why Rick doesn’t make this a sticky. The information in this post is priceless to anyone trying to understand how to use a scope that has a reticle based on angular measurements (Mil or MOA).
AFAIK, they're substantially the same reticle design, except one measures in Milradian and the other in MOA. All of my SWFA's are in Mil.
The main thing is that the reticle jives with the adjustment system. I use both systems, but prefer Mil based systems. Seems more intuitive and quicker to navigate a 1:10 system. Likewise, you get 5 mil per spin with the mil based classics, which, to me, is easier to work with than the 15 MOA per spin the MOA version gives.
Agreed, I’ve never seen a car with MPH on the speedometer and KM on the odometer.
It depends how you were raised. MOA is easier to an American carpenter who has used a standard tape measure his whole life. I’m used to calculating in 0.25 inches. Dialing a correction in at 0.36 inches per click (1/10milrad) takes to long to do the math. Or at 1,000yd, 2.5 inches and 3.6inches respectively.
Folks new to mil reticles have a hard time grasping that you don’t care how many inches in an MRAD. It is simply irrelevant. You dial or hold your DOPE in mils, not inches. Same with MOA. You dial or hold your DOPE in MOA, not inches. Mils are very intuitive because it’s base 10 in nature. The only ruler you need is right in front of your eye in the reticle.
John
Exactly. A 1 shot zero is easy. If it hits ANYWHERE I just lay the reticle on and dial what the reticle says. I hurts peoples brain to not care how many inches or whatever I was off.
Just did same,earlier in the morning,with a new scope upon a known rifle. Hint.
Boresighted at 25yds,shot (1) hole in 100yd paper(.7 Mil's left and .3 low of center),corrected windage,came up .8 Mil's for it's prescribed zero,fired a 2nd time and was .5 Mil high and centered. Zero'd turrets and 3rd shot was on 900yd steel. Not much to it. Hint.............
Just did same,earlier in the morning,with a new scope upon a known rifle. Hint.
Boresighted at 25yds,shot (1) hole in 100yd paper(.7 Mil's left and .3 low of center),corrected windage,came up .8 Mil's for it's prescribed zero,fired a 2nd time and was .5 Mil high and centered. Zero'd turrets and 3rd shot was on 900yd steel. Not much to it. Hint.............
It’s a nice feeling to not have to guess, or tap, or pray, or whatever to make stuff go where it’s supposed.
I’d think people would care more about how well a scope tracked and held zero. I’d sure as hell wouldn’t drive a truck that only steered where it felt like or the steering was “sorta” centered driving straight down the road
They are exceptionally good folks. Hint............
'11,
Read the fhuqking Thread. Hint...........
'retzs,
VERY fhuqking few folks actually fhuqking shoot,which is why Reupold and Vortex are swooned. The Paper Hat Brigade likes to prove same,if only obliviously. Hint...........(grin)
'mile,
Both use the same engine/solver,but AE is VERY fhuqking intuitive and works great on the fly,without service. Headed out in a bit,with a new Lot of 22LR fodder and will lean on AE heavily,as the chronograph pouts at home,on the fhuqking sidelines. AE will autoload Factory Fodder,at their advertised velocity and it takes only a shot or two to true same. Hint.
It just AMAZINGLY Fhuqking Stupid GOOD. Hint.............
Just did same,earlier in the morning,with a new scope upon a known rifle. Hint.
Boresighted at 25yds,shot (1) hole in 100yd paper(.7 Mil's left and .3 low of center),corrected windage,came up .8 Mil's for it's prescribed zero,fired a 2nd time and was .5 Mil high and centered. Zero'd turrets and 3rd shot was on 900yd steel. Not much to it. Hint.............
It’s a nice feeling to not have to guess, or tap, or pray, or whatever to make stuff go where it’s supposed.
I’d think people would care more about how well a scope tracked and held zero. I’d sure as hell wouldn’t drive a truck that only steered where it felt like or the steering was “sorta” centered driving straight down the road
This is it and it does blow minds. Most people are used to shooting a box of “shells” to get her set in a inch high at one hundred.
All I've done is MQ on these. 0.1 Mil adjustment = 0.36" @ 100 yds. 1/4 MOA clicks are, well, 1/4" at 100 yds. Slight advantage to MOA on the precision of the adjustments.
The reticles are different. Six one way, half a dozen the other.
Their biggest proponent has a preference . . . hint . . .
While a LOVELY Theory,that sure as fhuqk ain't how the ball bounces. I find it plum AMAZING,that folks can fhuqk schit up sooooo very reliablyy,despite all having been set upon a Silver Platter on THE very Thread. Hint.
The "conversions" were a nice touch,as was botching MOA to boot. Hint.
Big Stick you wouldn't happen to have a chart like that for 17 HMR would you? Or point me in the direction of the ballistic app you use. I have a SS10x42MQ side focus on the way and it's going on my HMR.
I've never heard of that scope. Hint.(grin)
"JBM" was eluded to and that was where/how the above data was generated. Good info in,never don't equal GREAT info out. All of my Hummers wear sumptin' MQ,whether it my Garrows,Anschutz 1717D HB,Custom 77/22 Hummer,CZ 452 or a slight deviation of the path ala Barken Arkin on my Vudoo Hummer. 'Course lotsa them on RAR's in these parts too. A smidge of The Herd. Hint.
Assuming an MQ reticle/erector,I don't even use a chronograph any more and leap right to Ballistics AE. That goes for the last coupla dozen new rifles,as a minimum. Simply gun a Zero suited to said chambering and it's bullet,run something generic and with but a coupla shots down range and ideally near it's Transonic Slip,shoot said data. Use the reticle to quantify the correction,push a button and ALL is aligned to said distance. I LOVE the 17HMR,but 22LR transitions much better and behaves MUCH better beyond the Transonic Slip(if there even is one in 22LR). So at Long Range,the 22LR will simply DESTROY a Hummer and that's before ammo consistency is extrapolated. Hint.
Just sayin'.................
Crow',
You NEED to forget,everything you "think" you fhuqking "know". Simply take notes and apply same. Hint.
Firstly,you can't dial 7.7 MOA nor 30.8 "clicks". Secondly,it may be 2497 seconds before Noon,but it's simply "20 after 11:00". On a MQ reticle,you'll never need to count more than TWO fhuqking "clicks". Dial whole or .5 mil's as indicated upon the turret and you will NEVER need to count more than TWO,in order to arrange a solution mechanically. Hint.
Fhuqking LAUGHING!.................
Can you explain why you can't dial 7.7 MOA on a MOA adjustment scope? It should be the same. Dial 31 clicks or 7 and then 3 additional 1/4 clicks assuming it is a 1/4 MOA scope as the SWFA MOA Quad specs call out.
It should be the same with more clicks since Minutes are a finer measurement than milradians.
Unless I am missing something. Be technical, I can handle it. I am an engineer.😉
Fhuqking Engineers are the WORST,I gotta wipe their asses daily. Hint.
7.7 can't be divided .25...if only for fhuqking starters. Hint.
Headed out with a pard to go shoot LR rimfire come-ups on some new ammo,or I'd mention that MOA and 1/4" are two very different lineal scales. Oooops! Hint.
Fhuqking Engineers are the WORST,I gotta wipe their asses daily. Hint.
7.7 can't be divided .25...if only for fhuqking starters. Hint.
Headed out with a pard to go shoot LR rimfire come-ups on some new ammo,or I'd mention that MOA and 1/4" are two very different lineal scales. Oooops! Hint.
Fhuqking LAUGING!..............
Might be incorrect, but if I was figuring 7.7 in MOA terms, it would really be 7.75 ,which indeed can be divided by .25
I might shoot more arrows than bullets lately. Haha Ps.. I'm not an engineer...grin
Fhuqking Engineers are the WORST,I gotta wipe their asses daily. Hint.
7.7 can't be divided .25...if only for fhuqking starters. Hint.
Headed out with a pard to go shoot LR rimfire come-ups on some new ammo,or I'd mention that MOA and 1/4" are two very different lineal scales. Oooops! Hint.
Fhuqking LAUGING!..............
Yes, we are the guys that have to come and show how to read a print and how the equipment works better when you plug it in.
You are correct, 7.7 can't, you have to round up or down. But the most error you will have between .25 graduations is .125 MOA right?
Since Minutes are a finer/smaller measurement than radians, the error between graduations are smaller. At 1000 yards the .125 MOA error is a 1.31" linear value.
Similarly while milradian scopes generally have .1 graduations true exterior ballistics don't follow a perfect .1mil path and they also have some error between .1 mils. Maximum error between would be .05 mil which is 1.8" of error at 1000 yards.
I am sure you misspoke on that last bit being you know that MOA, like radians is an angular measurement not a linear measurement so of course they arent on the same scale. They aren't the same type of measurement.
You don't think that 1/4 MOA on the turret of MOA scope represents 1/4",do you since I don't see where you are getting that from.
I love to learn so if I am wrong about this, teach me.
Don’t know why Rick doesn’t make this a sticky. The information in this post is priceless to anyone trying to understand how to use a scope that has a reticle based on angular measurements (Mil or MOA).
It was a sticky for a fair while, but it mysteriously got dropped when cameraland took over sponsorship of this page I guess it was hurting their bottom line
Point is/was,that someone who claims to shoot,don't cite DOPE in units that cain't be dialed. Hint....................(grin)
Crow',
You are fretting other languages(Mil's),less having a clue about your own. Hint.
Base Ten is obviously a breeze and boringly fhuqking constant,constant. If a "click's" size horns you up,then more power to you,but that ain't the schit you should fret,because within reason it really doesn't fhuqking matter. If a scope is 1/8" IPHY,MOA,1/4" IPHY or 1/10 mil and ACTUALLY moves same,repeats and holds zero,you are there. I've got/shot them all. Those graduations tend to effect erector travel and I'm slow to trade erector travel for a diminished "click" size,when it is in fhuqking reason. The Reupold MK4 M3 Fixed Fhuqkers(6 and 10x),squarely constitues some of Reupold's best efforts and that despite 1 MOA elevation "clicks" and .5 MOA windage "clicks". Not my favorite and much of that due to gross erector travel,more than "click" value. Though Reupold struggles with everything. Hint.
1/4" IPHY is different from .25 MOA,if only again. Hint.
NOBODY gunning a Milscale,is gonna say "I was halfa' click off at 1000yds...I wish this bitch was 1/4" IPHY". Hint.
Fhuqking LAUGHING!...............
Paula,
Could you place trembling fingers to a phone and do for yourself...you "lucky" kchunt. Hint. Congratulations?!?
Didn't think so. Hint.
Fhuqking LAUGHING!.............
'45,
I missed the base/ring query,but in broad brush strokes,Swiffer Low's will happily compliment their Fixed Fhuqkers aboard a 700 wearing a VS/PSS contour. That's wearing caps on Burris Xtreme 2-piecers. There are Splendid Pixels above,denoting same. Hint.............
'Rock,
I musta' missed that Thread,was someone being less than nice? Hint.
Bruce Jenner and Shania Twain are "basically the same style",though them differences are stark. Hint.
Let's lift skirts. Hint.
The MOA Quad is a muddled fhuqkwad of schit,that gets lost both quickly and reliably. Any lineal angular scale can be pressed into service,though obviously,some are more intuitive than others. If a scope came out in "Limbtrons" and it's reticle had a sound design,with stadia of Utility thickness,I'd not fret a Limbtrons .285" 100yd value,if the erector and windshield jived. The MOA Quad is a Lovely Theory,but rest fhuqking ASSURED that 1 MOA ticks that are 0.15" thick and 1" apart,are an INSTANT fhuqking Schit Show. Hint.
The MilQuad is laid out MUCH fhuqking friendlier and wayyyyyy fhuqking faster. It is IMPOSSIBLE to "miss" a whole value diamond and your eyes(barring they're crossed like Paula's),by default break same down lightyears faster. it is easier to shoot past/through and not even fhuqking close. Ticks,meshed with diamonds and breathing room between,does MUCH for Utilitarian favors. Pardon my shooting both. Hint.
I can hold all of the MQ's HARD,but only have 'em in 1-4x,1-6x HD,6x,3-9x,10x,12x,16x,3-15x and 5-20x. Their geometry makes it EASY to quarter anything,of any size and discern center. The 1-4x is the most unforgiving,as it's SFP and rather robust in it's stadias. Hint.
I run both the MOA and MIL Quad reticle. The MIL still gets me in a tizzy when things happen fast but it for sure is easier than the MOA mess.
The only reason I haven’t switched the MOA scope out is because I hunt a hell of a lot more than I shoot and if a critter is far enough away to need hold over, I’d just assume dial the range.
Hold wind, dial range. I haven’t got the confidence to shoot critters when the wind is up so the reticle mess doesn’t affect me when hunting. Otherwise, I’d of changed that MOA scope out before now. I should take advantage of this sale though and get a 10X MIL coming.
The upside to the MilQuad,is that there is no downside. The downside to the MoaQuad,is that there is no upside. Hint.
The MilQuad has VERY different stadia marks,as a diamond will kick you back to center or subtend a solution,either/or...as per whim and hastily. Even if just setting atop the coffee pot and looking through the kitchen window. Hint.
I shoot daily and NOBODY says "I prefer the MoaQuad",as I tend to have more than a couple few wares in tow. Hint.
Side by each extrapolations,tend to bear fruit and connect dots IMMEDIATELY. If you gotta make excuses and talk a scope purty,it's time to make THE Change. Hint................(grin)
Humors me muchly,to set all atop a Silver Platter and watch Drooling Fhuqktards botch it all. Hell...Paula can't even dial a fhuqking Phone by herself. Hint.
Does anyone know where I can get paper targets that read in mils? It hurts my brain to do the math when I need to adjust my scope 2inches right and 3 inches high.
Does anyone know where I can get paper targets that read in mils? It hurts my brain to do the math when I need to adjust my scope 2inches right and 3 inches high.
Does anyone know where I can get paper targets that read in mils? It hurts my brain to do the math when I need to adjust my scope 2inches right and 3 inches high.
I normally put a piece of tape over the bullet hole. Then I look through the scope and see what it says. Then I correct. You don’t have to think in inches at all that way.
Even better if you can see the bullet hole. Then skip the tape step. Just use the reticle adjust the turrets and set to zero.
So if I pull the bolt and look down the barrel and align it with the bullet hole in the paper, then adjust my scope to the center of the target I should be OK?
So if I pull the bolt and look down the barrel and align it with the bullet hole in the paper, then adjust my scope to the center of the target I should be OK?
Why on earth would you do that if you have a scope to look through? Seriously not being rude. The reticle has a ruler that matches the turrets.
Turn the turrets to match or if the rifle is held steady enough take the cross hair from poa to poi.
Does anyone know where I can get paper targets that read in mils? It hurts my brain to do the math when I need to adjust my scope 2inches right and 3 inches high.
I normally put a piece of tape over the bullet hole. Then I look through the scope and see what it says. Then I correct. You don’t have to think in inches at all that way.
Even better if you can see the bullet hole. Then skip the tape step. Just use the reticle adjust the turrets and set to zero.
Yeah, same here. Sometimes I’ll use an orange dot or a black sharpie to make a black circle I can see at distance. Then use the reticle and adjust as needed.
Does anyone know where I can get paper targets that read in mils? It hurts my brain to do the math when I need to adjust my scope 2inches right and 3 inches high.
I normally put a piece of tape over the bullet hole. Then I look through the scope and see what it says. Then I correct. You don’t have to think in inches at all that way.
Even better if you can see the bullet hole. Then skip the tape step. Just use the reticle adjust the turrets and set to zero.
An excellent method of doing this, yes - even with a target with inches (gasp) as a grid, appears earlier in this thread. I recommend you read it:
Other than the obvious price difference... is there any reason to get one over the other? Is the only difference where the parallax adjustment is located? Doesnt seem worth the price difference. What am I missing here?
Let me see if i got this right. 1-4x24 is made in the Philippines by Kenko All the fixed power scopes except the HD model are made in Japan by Kenko 3-15x42 is made in Japan by Kenko All the HD models are made in Japan by LOW
How do the glass and turrets compare to other Kenko made scopes such as Sightron?
Does anyone happen to know if low rings will work for a 10x with lens caps on a Ruger American Rimfire target with a factory rail or would I need mediums?
Also, how are the SSALT mounts? Would you recommend them or regular high rings? Would be going on an AR15.
Yep...nothing to it,whether Rimfire or Centerfire RAR,including Precisions and 10/22's. Hint.
That being said,you want Bob's extended 1913 and with ALL the inclination you can fhuqking get,otherwise you are throwing 50% of the erector away(as a minimum) and hurting Utility/Durability,due ring spacing. Hint.
SSALT is heavy and not my jam. I want FIXED fhuqking rings and have lotsa High's in service. Nope,more than that. Hint.(grin)
That being said,'Horn rings are a GREAT preference on Krunchentickers,due the 40MOA inclination availability. Hint.
Weren't my intent to horn you up,but fortunately for you,Imagination and Pretend are free,so even a Brokedick like you can "afford" to "contribute" with your Man Lust Fantasies...you "lucky" kchunt. Hint. Congratulations?!?
And there it is, BigBrownTruck was here, guy #thedoorbellbutton to let me know the 10x42 & SS-TAC low rings have landed.
Nor gonna post photos as there are plenty above showing what this Scookum glass and FinestKind scope ring things look like, thanks to BS of the timberjackoffs...hint, lmfao, whoohoo...hebersscookum
Yep...nothing to it,whether Rimfire or Centerfire RAR,including Precisions and 10/22's. Hint.
That being said,you want Bob's extended 1913 and with ALL the inclination you can fhuqking get,otherwise you are throwing 50% of the erector away(as a minimum) and hurting Utility/Durability,due ring spacing. Hint.
SSALT is heavy and not my jam. I want FIXED fhuqking rings and have lotsa High's in service. Nope,more than that. Hint.(grin)
That being said,'Horn rings are a GREAT preference on Krunchentickers,due the 40MOA inclination availability. Hint.
Have a MQ in lows on a 64 Anschutz and like it lots. But clearance isn't everything. Think about comb height some. Don't want to rupture a cervical disc twisting your neck down to the optical axis.
As for the SSALT, have them and like them lots. Bit more height vs high SWFA rings, so fits me perfect for AR or precision rifle. Rugged, and though not advertised as RTZ does a decent enough job in that regard.
My order was delivered yesterday. Not bad, ordered Monday at noon & had it Thursday at noon.
The 12x doesn't seem much of a trade off to the 10 for it's clarity & related. Reticles are sharp & clean. Too hazy yesterday to do a good comparison anyway.
The rings confused me a bit with a non ferrous clamping bar under a steel nut. The washer in-between is a nice touch. Didn't think about the clamp too long though, as I figured that if they hold up for Stick, they should work for me.
A big box of stuff for little money. Maybe the best sale they've had in quite some time.
'Tis a Fascinatingly HILARIOUS Delusion,that MrsTwoDumb extolling her Dumbfhuqktitude is gonna effect anyone,but herself...the "lucky" kchunt. Hint. Congratulations?!?
I've never MQ'd or Low'd a '64,mainly because I don't have any,though 54's do flourish with same. Hint.
I doubt I've much more than 50 sets of said rings in service and await a first "issue". Slow day today,with a new Lot of powder for a 10" RPM Liljee 17Rem. Hint.
Medium 'Horn's here,due the Sillywet comb and a new Lot of ammo slated to the K22. Started to settle after 15rds of lube swap. Bought all there was. RITR's for stock DOPE. Hint.
As the 10x/12x extrapolations go,exit pupil is exit pupil and so goes FOV. I can drive a 12x,but MUCH prefer the mannerisms of the 10x in a Utility Role and the 6x STEALS the fhuqking show. Rings that take a bar wrench are soothin'. Hint.(grin)
I prefer 'Horn's on AR's by a GOODLY margin,as cited. Hint................
Only shipping delays from them involved backordered stuff. Got a shipping notice yesterday, 12 hrs after placing order.
Wish I had a fleet of 54s, but couple 64s and a 1960s 10/22 kill good enough for my purposes. Crows past 100, pigeons to 75-ish, red squirrels to the bird feeder (10 yds). Lots. A 10MQ is perfect. The inbound one is going on the 10/22.
Just could not make myself pass on a 10x for $200 and the rings and BCs just sweetened the pot. Don’t even planning on mounting it on anything but always good to have a spare…
Anybody else have trouble ordering from them? I have attempted two different cards, in two days. Multiple times. One card locked me out for suspected fraud and when I called they said I had 6 different transactions come through for the same thing. I've yet to complete the order process and receive a order confirmation. I have been getting an error for AVS mismatch, billing address issue.
Whisky, I had the same AVS mismatch. I called SWFA, explained the situation, she took my order over the phone.
SWFA woman Wendy Bagby explained the AVS thing was related to Capitol 1 credit cards as the Capitol 1 does not validate the customer billing address, only zip code. This interferes with SWFA charging your card for item(s) purchased.
Call them customer service department at (972)617-7056 to order if using Capitol 1 cc. My order was a Cabelas cc where Cap 1 is the admin for the card.
Thanks, tried to call yesterday but closed. I would expect they will honor any weekend sales when I call tomorrow morning. I hope. I did send an email yesterday so it's on record.
Yeah I can’t buy anything from them via my visa debit card. Might try to start using our Venmo for such situations. I’d have liked a 1-4 and/or 10x, but just bought a 4-wheeler, so I’m feeling a bit poor at the moment.
I will probably regret not grabbing some scopes, but I have never been a fan of fixed power and never shot with a fixed 10x or 12x. I guess I dont know what I am missing out on. I did pick up some rings for future use on AR rifles.
Ordered a 10x Mil-quad. I have the same scope in MOA style but once again the fuggstick is right. The only reason I ended up with a MOA scope is there was a shortage of the Mil versions being in stock at SWFA. Still it has been an excellent scope and I will find a use for it either on my springer or my rimfire silhouette rifle.
Tried for almost 2 hours last night to order. 2 cards. Nothin. Fired off an email. Haven’t heard a thing. My first go round with SWFA isn’t looking so hot.
Tried for almost 2 hours last night to order. 2 cards. Nothin. Fired off an email. Haven’t heard a thing. My first go round with SWFA isn’t looking so hot.
My trademark luck appears to have followed me into this purchase. Ordered Friday. Yesterday my bank account was showing a hold. Today there is no hold or charge.
I'm sure they got a lot of orders really quick. Can't find fault with them on mine. If I ordered and they couldn't ship, I'd still be wanting it and I'd be glad they'd still take the order at that price. Have they cancelled any orders?
Mine went from Shipping Label Created to Out for Delivery. No updates at all for the days in between but that is not SWFA's fault. Other than that is seems like a great $200-300 scope but honestly i like my Sightrons just as much other than the reticle. Really diggin the MIL-Quad reticle and much less weight vs my Sightrons. The STAC turrets are more clicky and audible. Both have a similar amount of slop which is minimal. Optically i find the10x42 a little nicer than the 3-16x42 and close or equal to the 4-20x50. Have not done a good side by side yet but the turrets sure dont feel any better than what i got for $300 from Cameraland. That pretty much tells me what to expect in the 3-15x42 vs a Sightron SIII for close the same cash.
Still happy with SWFA overall. Excellent value for a Japanese made scope. The huge elevation/windage adjustment range is one of the big things this scope offers IMO. It blows Sightron and many other scopes out of the water.
I placed an order using a debit card on Thursday, received my order yesterday (Monday). They sent me emails at every step of the shipping process from creating the order to delivery. Very happy with SWFA.
This does me no good! Will the 6X EVER be available?
They were briefly this past summer. Didn't have any immediate needs myself, but I ordered a handful. They're all gone now, and none ended up on my rigs. A friend in need . . .
I don't end up hunting with them as often these days, but I still enjoy using them. I've said it before, but I wouldn't feel too slighted if I was constrained through horrible circumstances to use one for all of my big game hunting. I often hear and read that many feel 6x isn't enough for long range shooting; but after a lot shots downrange with various 6x's through the years, I feel it's more than adequate for 5-600 yds or more. When it's all the X you have, you just use it and learn that it works just fine.
To me, they are still the ultimate longish range scope for a rig on which one is trying to keep weight down but still wants to dial.
This does me no good! Will the 6X EVER be available?
I could use a couple of these 6x myself as they seem to be more versatile and better for hunting than the straight 10x. Even though I hunt in/near the wide open spaces, I've got no rifles that don't also get used in conditions that could be right up close and personal. One can work with less than ideal magnification... a bit harder when there's too much of it!
This does me no good! Will the 6X EVER be available?
I could use a couple of these 6x myself as they seem to be more versatile and better for hunting than the straight 10x. Even though I hunt in/near the wide open spaces, I've got no rifles that don't also get used in conditions that could be right up close and personal. One can work with less than ideal magnification... a bit harder when there's too much of it!
<Snort>
You’d be surprised what you can do up close with the 10x on a good fitting rifle. Had three coyotes come into the yard one AM. Smoked all three before the third made it to two hundred yards. Got the first two before 75.
Today I got an email that said mine would arrive tomorrow. That after the pending charge disappeared for about a day, no initial shipping notification and it showing as processing in the order status well after it shipped. The charge finally showed up on my account. Not complaining at all, just a bit of an oddity.
This does me no good! Will the 6X EVER be available?
I could use a couple of these 6x myself as they seem to be more versatile and better for hunting than the straight 10x. Even though I hunt in/near the wide open spaces, I've got no rifles that don't also get used in conditions that could be right up close and personal. One can work with less than ideal magnification... a bit harder when there's too much of it!
<Snort>
You’d be surprised what you can do up close with the 10x on a good fitting rifle. Had three coyotes come into the yard one AM. Smoked all three before the third made it to two hundred yards. Got the first two before 75.
John
I like the 6x better for a utility rifle but my 10x on a Tikka 22-250 hasn't burned me yet, even shooting critters at 30 or 40 yards.
100 yards is one thing. Ever had a coyote mysteriously show up at 10 yards, or even at bayonet range? I shot one pup in Idaho literally off the hip it was so close. That one was an eye opener for me. 10X is just a ball of fur at 15 or 20 feet, for me at least.
6X for me, though I do have a 10X on a rifle that I carry for stalking bigger critters in open areas. It hasn't bit me yet but one day it might. One rag bull elk at 600 yards in the shadows was a bit tough for me at 6X. I got it done, but it was close.
I just don’t get it! Why aren’t they making more of what people want, the 6x and the 3x9? They haven’t been available at all for the last 2 years!
I often wonder the same.
I sometimes wonder, too, why they don't offer a more hunter centric model/s with low profile elevation and capped windage. Now that Bushie abandoned the 3-12 range in their serious scopes, there's a good opportunity to capitalize on that niche for the 15, or so, of us who like that X range, overall dimensions, and feature set!
But, obviously, they have the opposite of a problem as far as product demand.
I just don’t get it! Why aren’t they making more of what people want, the 6x and the 3x9? They haven’t been available at all for the last 2 years!
I often wonder the same.
I sometimes wonder, too, why they don't offer a more hunter centric model/s with low profile elevation and capped windage. Now that Bushie abandoned the 3-12 range in their serious scopes, there's a good opportunity to capitalize on that niche for the 15, or so, of us who like that X range, overall dimensions, and feature set!
But, obviously, they have the opposite of a problem as far as product demand.
They're not getting any of those two models (3-9 & 6x) because they're implementing a change in production. New models will come with a zero stopped elevation and capped windage.
....well...that may or may not be the reason....but if I was making a reason up out to thin air, that's the reason I'd make up!
I just don’t get it! Why aren’t they making more of what people want, the 6x and the 3x9? They haven’t been available at all for the last 2 years!
I often wonder the same.
I sometimes wonder, too, why they don't offer a more hunter centric model/s with low profile elevation and capped windage. Now that Bushie abandoned the 3-12 range in their serious scopes, there's a good opportunity to capitalize on that niche for the 15, or so, of us who like that X range, overall dimensions, and feature set!
But, obviously, they have the opposite of a problem as far as product demand.
They're not getting any of those two models (3-9 & 6x) because they're implementing a change in production. New models will come with a zero stopped elevation and capped windage.
....well...that may or may not be the reason....but if I was making a reason up out to thin air, that's the reason I'd make up!
A 10x WILL simply bite you and a 6x simply can NOT. Hint.
Had a pard whistling 180's outta a 7mm RemMag the other day at 1400 and small change,with a 6x and he blew his own mind. In the wind. Hint..................(grin)
The scope arrived today. I rate the ordering and shipping process as good, despite the communications oddities. It was packaged well for shipping.
The first thing I noticed is that they didn't waste any money on an extravagant scope box. The second thing I noticed is that they manged to pack a good bit of weight into such a small scope. It was advertised at 14.1 ounces. It was obviously more than that, so I threw it on the scale. 16.07 ounces sans batteries. I got ready to put the batteries in and looked for the instructions. There are none. No big deal. It's a scope...easy enough to figure out.
After I installed the battery I brought it up to my eye on one power to drink in the wonderfulness of the 5 inches of advertised eye relief. NOT. It's closer to 3. It goes down a good bit from there when cranked up to 4. It's certainly no Leupold in eye box or eye relief. I ran the lighted reticle through its paces. I like it. It gets more than dim enough in darkness and more than bright enough on a sunny day. Glass is good. I don't even know what gun I'll put it on yet. It'll be a bit before I put it to the real test.
I have 2 SWFA SS 10X and like them but I too have wondered why they don’t make something in a straight 8X with low turrets and a illuminated dot would be nice too.
I have 2 SWFA SS 10X and like them but I too have wondered why they don’t make something in a straight 8X with low turrets and a illuminated dot would be nice too.
Probably because they can't keep what they have in their current lineup in stock.
Any of you weigh or check eye relief on your 1X4's? The weight I am not too worried about. I mounted the scope today and measured eye relief at 3.3 at 1X and 2.3 at 4X. That's goddam unacceptable.
Any of you weigh or check eye relief on your 1X4's? The weight I am not too worried about. I mounted the scope today and measured eye relief at 3.3 at 1X and 2.3 at 4X. That's goddam unacceptable.
Paul. Check your eyes. Check your measuring device. Check how you are measuring it.
It’s all of that fails, return it to Ruger.
Seriously, I just measured one, it’s damn near 5 inches on 1X.
Any of you weigh or check eye relief on your 1X4's? The weight I am not too worried about. I mounted the scope today and measured eye relief at 3.3 at 1X and 2.3 at 4X. That's goddam unacceptable.
Paul. Check your eyes. Check your measuring device. Check how you are measuring it.
It’s all of that fails, return it to Ruger.
Seriously, I just measured one, it’s damn near 5 inches on 1X.
I must have gotten a bad one. Eye relief on 4X is exactly the length of my little torx wrench that I used to snug the screws. I measured it at 2.3 inches. As a point of comparison, my Leupold 1.5x4 has an advertised eye relief of 3.7 on 4 and it gives that using the same way of measuring. It's not perfect, but it's consistent and it's normally very close to manufacturers spec.
Does the SWFA 1x4 illumination have an auto shut off?
It wears a (10) intensity setting rheostat,eith an "off" position betwixt every brightness setting and don't care which way you spin same. It is a rather skookum design and exceptionally so,given the onboard extry battery storage compartment. Unless you wear a helmet. Hint.
Thanks for the heads up on the cross bolt safety delete. I don't have as many Marlins as I did at one time, and most of what I have left is pre safety, but do have few rigs that will be getting an upgrade over the rubber O rings that are currently being used to keep the safety off.
Thanks for the heads up on the cross bolt safety delete. I don't have as many Marlins as I did at one time, and most of what I have left is pre safety, but do have few rigs that will be getting an upgrade over the rubber O rings that are currently being used to keep the safety off.
Thanks all- bear tooth incoming for the 45-70 guide gun.
Who needs to delete a cross bolt safety? Some tard who can't figure out how to turn it off and leave it off?
I find redundant safeties in general to be irksome. Worse yet is when their function and placement are not intuitive, such as the Marlin cross bolt in reference.
Who needs to delete a cross bolt safety? Some tard who can't figure out how to turn it off and leave it off?
I find redundant safeties in general to be irksome. Worse yet is when their function and placement are not intuitive, such as the Marlin cross bolt in reference.
Who needs to delete a cross bolt safety? Some tard who can't figure out how to turn it off and leave it off?
I find redundant safeties in general to be irksome. Worse yet is when their function and placement are not intuitive, such as the Marlin cross bolt in reference.
Thanks for confirming my suspicions.
Maybe it's best if you stick to dropping weights on things for entertainment.
SWFA never posted my review. They did update the weight in their specs to reflect the correct weight. They still have not updated the eye relief that is WAY off. I submitted another review, we'll see if they post it.
Have you stuck it on a gun yet? Have you even used the damn thing?
I don't have any use for a short eye relief scope. It's in a box with some old take off Simmons and Bushnell junk. I hate crawling the scope. Won't do it.
How do you measure eye relief on a scope that you have not mounted?
I mounted it up on a 223 bolt gun to get a feel for it. I removed it.
Maybe they found out you are one of them road blocking bicyclists we hate around here. Their shop is less than 20 miles from my house and it is afterall bicycle riding season. You might get better service if you were wearing one of Sticks Norton hats in your avatar.
How do you measure eye relief on a scope that you have not mounted?
If I already have a scope that works mounted on that rifle, I lay it on its side, put a penlight against the objective, then put a stiff piece of paper behind the ocular and move it back and forth until the projected spot of light is focused. That’s the ER of that one (you can lay a ruler along side it helps you keep track). Then I lay the prospective scope parallel to the old one, bearing in mind where the rings will allow mounting, and use the light and paper again. If the measurement is about the same, I’m good. I’m not a crawler, so often the objective ends up as close to the front ring as it can go, just not quite touching.