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I assume scopes come from the factory with the turrets set at the mid point of their adjustment range. Is there any way to return one to that point other than counting clicks up and down and then counting again to the mid point. Scope in question is a Zeiss Conquest 3x9x40. Reason for asking is when one wants to switch a scope to a different rifle, do you try to return turrets to the mid point to start fresh on the new rifle?
Originally Posted by jd3006
Is there any way to return one to that point other than counting clicks up and down and then counting again to the mid point.


No.

Originally Posted by jd3006
do you try to return turrets to the mid point to start fresh on the new rifle?


Some people do. Whenever I make scope swaps I don't do it unless the new zero attempt requires some serious cranking on the turrets. Most of mine don't. If it's a scope that has been in the safe a while I always "remiddle" it.
I am sure somebody will chime but it seems I remember something about putting the objective on a mirror and you could see when it was centered. But then again I am old and may have dreamed it. grin miles
Press the objective end of the scope squarely against a mirror. Look into the ocular end. If you see one reticle, it's centered. If you see two reticles move the adjustments until you see one.


grin
jd3006,

Don't laugh at mathman.

Try it. You'll like it.

edited to add: Welcome to the 'fire.
I use the mirror also.
Hmmm, learned something new.
Originally Posted by Reloder28
Hmmm, learned something new.


You ain't the only one.
I've used the mirror method. I've also used v-blocks. Rotate the scope in the V-blocks and watch the center of the reticle. If it's perfectly centred, the intersection of the horizontal stadia and the verticle stadia will rotate around where they intersect. If the reticle is not centerered, the "X" will be following an elliptical pattern. Through trial and error, you can get one perfectly centered this way too.
Originally Posted by Magnumdood
I've used the mirror method. I've also used v-blocks. Rotate the scope in the V-blocks and watch the center of the reticle. If it's perfectly centred, the intersection of the horizontal stadia and the verticle stadia will rotate around where they intersect. If the reticle is not centerered, the "X" will be following an elliptical pattern. Through trial and error, you can get one perfectly centered this way too.

My usual approach.

However, one does not need V-blocks if you are using horizontally split rings. Just lay the scope in the bottom ring already mounted on the rifle, spin the scope, and adjust until the centre of the crosshairs does not move.

I found that with some scopes, counting clicks did NOT get the reticle optically centered. I am sure that the difference was not enough to worry about though since it was within about 3 or 4 MOA.

John

Make it easy and use the mirror!
Optical center using a mirror, internal adjustment center using clicks, and center based on the exterior surface may all be a little different.

Bruce
Here's a video done by US Optics on centering your erector. It will work on any scope:

Erector Centering
I've use the mirror method mentioned above in the past, it works fine for centering the scope but that is of little practical use for me so I don't bother anymore.
Typically, I will just put the scope in the rings, remove the bolt and sight it in the old fashioned way, by looking down the bore at an object and then crank the turrets to match, this is by far the best way to bore sight a scope in my experience.
Once fine tuned at the range, I use a Leupold zero point module to mark the POA once, and use it to return the scope to the same settings once removed and then remounted. Works like a charm.


Josh

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