How tight should my Leupold rings be tightened down to? Have a set on a TC Encore 35 Whelen and suddenly last weekend rifle started shooting about 8” high. I then realize the scope has marks on it as if it has slid inside the rings. Was shooting rifle in a sled and I know the recoil is violent so I’m wondering if it’s possible the scope could have moved in those rings?? I’m trying to attach a picture of what I am talking about below. Thanks for the input.


https://i.imgur.com/LebpCx9.jpg

The torque values are on the package. 28 in/lbs should do it.

Thanks. Have no idea where the package is. These rings went from my original 50cal ML barrel (I think in 2005) to my 7mm rm barrel and now to this 35 Whelen.

I'd also check the ring tops, swapping back to front, and see if one makes better contact. Additionally, lapping may be needed, at times. Or, I have read of a lot of folks on here using very thin layers of rubber cement to "bed" the tube into the rings.

Leupold recommends 15-17, Nightforce is one of the highest at 25, vortec says damage to the scope may occur if you exceed 18.

I'd check with Leupold. 28 sounds on the high side for steel, but I don't know.

It is on the package as such.

Thank you. Important to note it is the max recommended.

I do 18-20 on #6's, which I believe Leupold uses.

I think the solution to your problem requires ditching the sled in addition to proper ring torque. Even if you can get the scope to stay put in the rings, I suspect bad things will happen. A light rifle with a stout round needs to be able to move a little.

How much does the scope weigh?

14.6oz

Leupold STD are junk that has no place in the modern world.

Yeah, they're not the top-tier choice, but work sufficiently for me. I wouldn't go as far as to say they're junk, though.

I would lap the rings, torque to the recommended value and most definitely do not use the sled.

Antique junk may have been more appropriate. Hardly a need for the system these days.

Actually, pounds inches gives a much better picture of the actual force.

I canned all the Leupold rings and bases, went with Talley bases and rings, not the light weights. My rifles keep zero now. I use a lead sled if it’s a new scope, but put no weight in the sled. I switch to bags after I get close.

I can't imagine how there is such a disparity on torque values for scopes/rings.

If you mount a Vortex in a Leupold ring and torque it to 28 in/lb you will completely distort it. Wish there were some standardization.

Dennis,

I read the Leupold stuff three times, and every time it mentioned the torque for 8-40 screws as 28 in/lb. That's considerably different than the 22 for for 6-48's.

I know, the torque values are based on SCREWS, not on the force applied to the scope tube. If I drill and tap the holes in the rings to 10-32 can I torque them to 50 in/lbs???

This is not an intuitive way to secure a scope. Apparently the Chinese aluminum used in the Vortex scopes is not a strong as the other-sourced aluminum in the Leupold scopes which, apparently, can withstand these thread-yielding torques.

I had a LONG discussion about torquing scopes with Ryan Muckinhearn (spelling?) from Vortex. He straight up told me that if I torque one of their scopes (other than the Gen 2 tactical scope) beyond 18 in/lb I would ruin it. I told him that it might be a good idea to put those instructions in with their scope packaging. He agreed and said that they had just started (SHOT 2018). He also gave me specific places NOT to put the rings on the scope tubes.

Without saying it directly, he implied that the only proper way to mount a scope was by using a rail which allowed you 100% freedom in locating the rings where there were no delicate moving parts underneath!

I have had a dozen or so Vortex scopes fail during load development or practice and he blamed it on me for using my Warne pre-set torque driver. It was set to 25 in/lb which he said damaged their scopes. I couldn't argue with this other than to tell him it didn't damage my other brands. I now torque ALL the scope installations so that I can justify my work as being to specs when the scopes finally fail.

I use the supplier torx wrench, tighten til they're about to break, " or I think" then stop... Works great.

In that case maybe they should let us know exactly where these delicate parts are located under the tube.