Br
One of my Dr. did a trip last year to the top. We trade story's every year on where we both went, i take a photo book for him to glance through and he shows me some of his photos.
first thing he said was to take the quickest to the top as many offer different packages. Make sure you have a porter to pack most if not all of your equipment up the mountain. Take very warm clothing, using different base layers. Layers being the priority. Go over everything with your agent to make sure you have your bases covered. His camera battery went dead and he only had a few photos from his i phone showing him being at the top. I think he said only about 40% to 50% of the group made it to the top. They had a storm the last day going up, very windy and cold, some stopped within a few 100 feet of reaching the marker.
Visit your doctor, making sure you do not have heart issues, because as you walk up the mountain, the thin air makes a difference. My Dr had packed oxygen, just in case he needed it, and he used it. We are at 5,300 feet and the hill to the east that goes to 13,000 plus, this was a plus in his trail hiking.
Bwana338. I trust you friend is telling you what he believes is correct. My daughters group had all 5 go to the top. They took oxygen but nobody used it. If you research this issue you will find that the shortest fastest trips have by far the highest failure to summit rate. Her group was camped in snow at 16,400 feet and climbed the 4,000 or so more in a storm and the temp's at the summit were between 15 and 20 degrees F.
Full preparation is necessary as you noted. The park does not allow anyone to climb without porters. With her guide company each climber had one porter and they were allowed one large duffel of up to 35#. Personal backpack was limited to 15#. Additional porters carried the tents, food, etc. The personal porter had your own items, with sleeping bag, ground pad, etc.
The different packages you note as also a difference of trails. The park only allows I believe 7 routes up. Nobody is allowed to just climb where they want. The routes with more days do cost more, but have higher success as you get a chance to 1. acclimate to the altitude and 2. your daily climb is slightly less. Once you are behind on oxygen it is hard to get caught up as the air, as you noted is getting quite thin.
My daughter was making her first summit of a high mountain and her training was near sea level where she lives. Her access within a couple hours was at the most to train and hike up to about 4,000 elevation. She was walking with 30 lbs in a pack 2-3 times per week for 1-2 hours at about 1,000 foot elevation to prepare.
I agree on a check-up. There are other medical issues to discuss. I would recommend the insurance which is about $65. If there is a medical emergency you will be helicopter evac'd to a medical facility. Without insurance you will be billed for that ride. All groups have multiple guides trained and certified in high altitude emergency medicine. If they think you cannot go on you will be escorted down or evac'd. Their say is final and it isn't just what you want. The fact that there are so few medical emergencies is why the full insurance is only $65 as it is seldom used.