advice, the best way to fix this gouge one of my helpers made when the scraper caught then skipped and his forward momentum carried him into the corner of the cabinet.
stxhunter; Good evening sir, I hope other than the gouged cabinet this finds you well.
Before we begin, I'm going to assume that the customer knows the fix will not be perfect ans since the cabinets are not new will be okay with that.
The piece of veneer that's loose on the right can be put back with something like an industrial PL adhesive.
The sticky wicket there is how to put pressure on it to hold it in place and at the same time clean up any extra which squirts out.
Are you able to clamp it?
Then for the front, I'd use a wood filler to fill within say an eighth of the surface. Some wood filler such as Fix brand which also make PL in the US actually will take stain fairly well.
Try a test batch and see if the filler will take stain and if it will, then fill to level and stain.
If the filler will not take stain, then you'll need to source some lacquer sticks in the correct color and use them. While it's fairly large, we've used lacquer sticks to repair mill work and been successful most of the time.
Hope that was useful and made some sense. Good luck with the repair, feel free to ask questions and all the best to you this summer.
that ain't going to be easy nor perfect. if the laminate is kind of loose and you can find something similiar, you might want to carefully cut out around it and put in a dutchman using a good wood glue.
Yeah, But it looks like that cabinet is a veneer over slats.. And the veneer looks to be from a single piece (from the grain of the three or four pieces I see) I thought you might have better luck finding a piece of flooring that looks similar to tge veneer since it is two sides of a corner and (real wood)veneer can be expensive
stxhunter; Good evening sir, I hope other than the gouged cabinet this finds you well.
Before we begin, I'm going to assume that the customer knows the fix will not be perfect ans since the cabinets are not new will be okay with that.
The piece of veneer that's loose on the right can be put back with something like an industrial PL adhesive.
The sticky wicket there is how to put pressure on it to hold it in place and at the same time clean up any extra which squirts out.
Are you able to clamp it?
Then for the front, I'd use a wood filler to fill within say an eighth of the surface. Some wood filler such as Fix brand which also make PL in the US actually will take stain fairly well.
Try a test batch and see if the filler will take stain and if it will, then fill to level and stain.
If the filler will not take stain, then you'll need to source some lacquer sticks in the correct color and use them. While it's fairly large, we've used lacquer sticks to repair mill work and been successful most of the time.
Hope that was useful and made some sense. Good luck with the repair, feel free to ask questions and all the best to you this summer.
Dwayne
this is what i was thinking and will probably try first.
Roger, I’m thinking your easiest fix, where it would come out a “clean” job, and the customer would accept it, is:
1 - Get a half sheet of cabinet grade plywood the same thickness as those doors.
2 – Make that corner into like a block paneling, where the whole corner stands off on the facing side the same distance as that door. Make the right side block panel the full width of that right side, where the factory edge mates against the face of the cabinet to the right.
3 – On the piece facing you, make it the same width as the piece you put on the right, what about 1.5 inches wide it looks like?
4 – Cut the 45 degree angle on a table saw on the corners of the block paneling to make a clean outer edge.
5 – The counter top, which is not viewable, is the limiting factor on how you finish it at the top, and if it is possible to where you can blend the top in cleanly.
6 – Pop it into place with a finishing nail gun, putty nail holes, stain, done.
This way, you just cover up the mess, and walk away like it was built that way originally once finished.
You won’t be able to patch that gouge, and it come out clean.
Roger, I’m thinking your easiest fix, where it would come out a “clean” job, and the customer would accept it, is:
1 - Get a half sheet of cabinet grade plywood the same thickness as those doors.
2 – Make that corner into like a block paneling, where the whole corner stands off on the facing side the same distance as that door. Make the right side block panel the full width of that right side, where the factory edge mates against the face of the cabinet to the right.
3 – On the piece facing you, make it the same width as the piece you put on the right, what about 1.5 inches wide it looks like?
4 – Cut the 45 degree angle on a table saw on the corners of the block paneling to make a clean outer edge.
5 – The counter top, which is not viewable, is the limiting factor on how you finish it at the top, and if it is possible to where you can blend the top in cleanly.
6 – Pop it into place with a finishing nail gun, putty nail holes, stain, done.
This way, you just cover up the mess, and walk away like it was built that way originally once finished.
You won’t be able to patch that gouge, and it come out clean.
if i go that route i'll have one of my carpenter friends do it.
Judging by the quality of those cabinets, nothing but a full restoration of the room would be acceptable. Or some old English polish. Can ya tell I had a bad with a fugging moron gc.
Roger, I’m thinking your easiest fix, where it would come out a “clean” job, and the customer would accept it, is:
1 - Get a half sheet of cabinet grade plywood the same thickness as those doors.
2 – Make that corner into like a block paneling, where the whole corner stands off on the facing side the same distance as that door. Make the right side block panel the full width of that right side, where the factory edge mates against the face of the cabinet to the right.
3 – On the piece facing you, make it the same width as the piece you put on the right, what about 1.5 inches wide it looks like?
4 – Cut the 45 degree angle on a table saw on the corners of the block paneling to make a clean outer edge.
5 – The counter top, which is not viewable, is the limiting factor on how you finish it at the top, and if it is possible to where you can blend the top in cleanly.
6 – Pop it into place with a finishing nail gun, putty nail holes, stain, done.
This way, you just cover up the mess, and walk away like it was built that way originally once finished.
You won’t be able to patch that gouge, and it come out clean.
if i go that route i'll have one of my carpenter friends do it.
I was thinking that while I was typing, but didn't know your extent of experience. If you have a good cabinet friend, he could bang that out, and you walk away with no headache from trying to half azz a fix, and a with a happy customer. It'd be an easy fix for a cabinet guy.
That's probably your least of a headache way to fix it. Sucks when we have to come out of pocket on a job, but it's part of the game sometimes. You fix it and go down the road, and keep the referrals coming in from the happy customer, and how you handled the situation.
Judging by the quality of those cabinets, nothing but a full restoration of the room would be acceptable. Or some old English polish. Can ya tell I had a bad with a fugging moron gc.
With them knowing the extent of the damage and the obvious condition of cabs perhaps cutting a Dutchman in would be the answer. I believe w the newer cellphone cameras that you’d be able to print a pic and have a good stain tinted to very near match color. Stain prior to installation then pin nail like your cab man will. Also most all wooden flooring mfgs make stain matching crayon for the corner and to striate the patch to match. Armstrong always told us “putty is your buddy.” It will easily be the prettiest part of the cabs!
From the picture it looks like the gouged corner is two seperate pieces, independent of each other. From the hinge setup it looks like the left and right are two doors opening opposite. If so, do as Dwayne suggested, clean up the splinters, apply liberal glue (I would use a good wood glue) and clamp with c-clamps and wood or flooring blocks to spread the clamp force and reshape the base. When that has dried, fill in the remaining damage as required. I would probably use Plastic Wood of the appropriate color. Then carefully sand and touch up the stain with a felt tip stain pen blended with some artful finger blending.
Don’t laugh.........but fill it, sand it and hand paint it with a tiny brush using several different colors of paint mixed custom to match as you go. Get a dark brown and lighten it with white, etc. Tedious but very doable.
From the picture it looks like the gouged corner is two seperate pieces, independent of each other. From the hinge setup it looks like the left and right are two doors opening opposite. If so, do as Dwayne suggested, clean up the splinters, apply liberal glue (I would use a good wood glue) and clamp with c-clamps and wood or flooring blocks to spread the clamp force and reshape the base. When that has dried, fill in the remaining damage as required. I would probably use Plastic Wood of the appropriate color. Then carefully sand and touch up the stain with a felt tip stain pen blended with some artful finger blending.
How the [bleep] you put a c-clamp on an outside corner?
STX, you obviously know not to take advice from half the retards on here.
Is that the only corner like that? What I would do is mill out a piece of oak that goes from that back corner then wraps around and covers the front. It would be rather thin, 3/8" inch thick or so and "L" shaped to cover the damaged area. If there are other corners like that then you would have to do them the same so it doesn't look odd.
In essence make it look like it's part of the design. A stark corner like that is ugly anyway.
Is that the only corner like that? What I would do is mill out a piece of oak that goes from that back corner then wraps around and covers the front. It would be rather thin, 3/8" inch thick or so and "L" shaped to cover the damaged area. If there are other corners like that then you would have to do them the same so it doesn't look odd.
In essence make it look like it's part of the design. A stark corner like that is ugly anyway.
Roger, you should do this ^^^^^^^^^^, so you can send your cabinet guy to do the work, while you go fishing.
Tell them you want their corner protected from ever getting damaged again, and go buy a can of flat black spray paint (match the hinges), and go buy one of these and cut to fit…..that way you can repair it yourself, and save a couple hundred.
Tell them you want their corner protected from ever getting damaged again, and go buy a can of flat black spray paint (match the hinges), and go buy one of these and cut to fit…..that way you can repair it yourself, and save a couple hundred.
Tell them you want their corner protected from ever getting damaged again, and go buy a can of flat black spray paint (match the hinges), and go buy one of these and cut to fit…..that way you can repair it yourself, and save a couple hundred.
Or buy wood corner mould at .65/ft and a can of stain at $3 and be done with it.
Yeah, if he could get that bulging piece on the right back into place with small short finish nails (so they don’t protrude into the cabinet where they could get you or glue a piece of wood on the inside to make thicker and hide the nails coming through), and nail the corner back together, that outside corner mold would work good, especially with it being thinner than the block paneling I was suggesting to match the thickness of the doors. That outside mold would be a lot easier to make a tight finish at the top, up against the counter at the top.
You reading this Roger? You could handle this. You don’t need to pay a cabinet guy.
![[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]](https://i.postimg.cc/W3Z0Nf4t/IMG-0203.jpg)