This SOB is putting up one hell of a fight. Hammer, pb blaster and just gave me a little wiggle. Gonna try heating it up with the torch now.
Is it the shoes grabbing? If so, try backing off the adjuster.
This SOB is putting up one hell of a fight. Hammer, pb blaster and just gave me a little wiggle. Gonna try heating it up with the torch now.
The stink alone should have the drum giving up the ghost.
Be careful with heat near brake fluid.
88 Ford long bed I’m turning into a utility/off road trailer
Can you back the shoes off?
Some of those early GM's didn't allow that....not sure about Ford.
If the shoes aren’t holding it on, then try to get a couple of screwdrivers or pry bars on each side between it and backing plate. then whack the axle with a piece of wood and 4lb sledge or dead blow mallet.
Put the wheel and tire back one; the you will have more leverage for rocking it back and forth.
Put the wheel and tire back one; the you will have more leverage for rocking it back and forth.
Hah that won't work!
Unbolt the brake line and wheel cylinder from the backing plate, and cut the heads off the brake shoe retaining pins with an angle grinder. The wheel cylinder and brake shoes will come off with the drum, at least far enough to get a pry bar inside the drum and dismantle things.
Jerry
When I was a mechanic the ford drums would stick like this. It was usually the very center rusted on the knob of the axle. I would take a center punch and go around this several times to bust the rust loose. Always got them off this way. Good luck. Ed k
Does the drum have bolt holes on the face of it? Pretty easy to break it free from the hub with the correct size bolt most of the time. That’s what the holes are there for.
When I was a mechanic the ford drums would stick like this. It was usually the very center rusted on the knob of the axle. I would take a center punch and go around this several times to bust the rust loose. Always got them off this way. Good luck. Ed k
That's a good tip. OP never did answer bruinruin's question.
When I was a mechanic the ford drums would stick like this. It was usually the very center rusted on the knob of the axle. I would take a center punch and go around this several times to bust the rust loose. Always got them off this way. Good luck. Ed k
I used an air chisel once trying to cut off the nuts on exhaust manifold flanges, didn't get the nuts to split but in the process vibrated the rust loose and they came right off. So I got the idea of getting some Smoothing drifts for my pneumatic chisel and made it an air hammer and it works great freeing up rusted stuff.
Beans - If you have backed off the shoe adjuster and also applied penetrant it is not likely that the shoes are grabbing tightly enough to prevent removal with hammer blows and/or leverage between drum and plate. I would not yet start using flame/heat. More than likely the problem is tight fit/corrosion roughness/etc. between two metal components on the axle-to-drum fit. Am not familiar with that particular setup but penetrant on such surfaces and rigging some sort of pusher or puller mechanism should overcome that. Hope this helps.
Unbolt the brake line and wheel cylinder from the backing plate, and cut the heads off the brake shoe retaining pins with an angle grinder. The wheel cylinder and brake shoes will come off with the drum, at least far enough to get a pry bar inside the drum and dismantle things.
Jerry
This ^ ^ ^ right here
Um, wheel puller to apply pressure then smack the drum with a hammer to break free?
Unbolt the brake line and wheel cylinder from the backing plate, and cut the heads off the brake shoe retaining pins with an angle grinder. The wheel cylinder and brake shoes will come off with the drum, at least far enough to get a pry bar inside the drum and dismantle things.
Jerry
This ^ ^ ^ right here
Yes, this is the best advice.
I had to cut the heads off the retaining pins and use a brake drum puller to get one off once. It made a big "Wong" when it came off. Kind of scared me.
I have an adjustable 15" wrench lot, and found in the field, I've tried off, and on for 30 years to get lose.
When I was a mechanic the ford drums would stick like this. It was usually the very center rusted on the knob of the axle. I would take a center punch and go around this several times to bust the rust loose. Always got them off this way. Good luck. Ed k
Tap the drum lightly with a small metallic object....dinng,,,,it ain't shoe interference. Center pilot binding. Clungk...shoe interference, proceed with Hotrod Lincoln program.
have a short handled twelve lb for just this.
you could use penetrating oil and come back a little later.
Tap the drum lightly with a small metallic object....dinng,,,,it ain't shoe interference. Center pilot binding. Clungk...shoe interference, proceed with Hotrod Lincoln program.
THIS is what I was taught as well.
I drilled them out. Was a stubborn bitch but got it done thanks all
Unbolt the brake line and wheel cylinder from the backing plate, and cut the heads off the brake shoe retaining pins with an angle grinder. The wheel cylinder and brake shoes will come off with the drum, at least far enough to get a pry bar inside the drum and dismantle things.
Jerry
This ^ ^ ^ right here
Unbolt the brake line and wheel cylinder from the backing plate, and cut the heads off the brake shoe retaining pins with an angle grinder. The wheel cylinder and brake shoes will come off with the drum, at least far enough to get a pry bar inside the drum and dismantle things.
Jerry
For the win!
Unbolt the brake line and wheel cylinder from the backing plate, and cut the heads off the brake shoe retaining pins with an angle grinder. The wheel cylinder and brake shoes will come off with the drum, at least far enough to get a pry bar inside the drum and dismantle things.
Jerry
For the win!
If indeed the shoes are binding enough to make drum removal impossible, I sure do agree with HL's advice. But, if the drum goes "ding" and it is not shoes binding, the penetrant and leverage method is a lot less hassle.
Usually beat on them with a rubber mallet in various spots.
Selective use of 5lb hammer, better a shotpeen dead blow.
Between the studs..(But dont hit 'em)
Agree about the hub shoulder as a problem spot...
He said the drum won't turn- - - - -"reading is fundamental"- - - -that means the shoes were stuck to the drum. I started doing brake work in the early 1960's. Chances are the junk truck had the parking brake set for years, and the shoes rusted to the drum. I've seen that happen several times.
He said the drum won't turn- - - - -"reading is fundamental"- - - -that means the shoes were stuck to the drum. I started doing brake work in the early 1960's. Chances are the junk truck had the parking brake set for years, and the shoes rusted to the drum. I've seen that happen several times.
Yeah - reading is essential, and so is comprehension of what is read. In none of beans' posts did he say that the drum will not spin/turn - where did you comprehend that?
you could use penetrating oil and come back a little later.
Don’t spoil it, Kroil it!
#truth
He said the drum won't turn- - - - -"reading is fundamental"- - - -that means the shoes were stuck to the drum. I started doing brake work in the early 1960's. Chances are the junk truck had the parking brake set for years, and the shoes rusted to the drum. I've seen that happen several times.
Yeah - reading is essential, and so is comprehension of what is read. In none of beans' posts did he say that the drum will not spin/turn - where did you comprehend that?
Send him a PM and tell him you taught school for 74 years but only after you mined asbestos with a pick and shovel at Johns Manville for 30 years first.
That impresses everyone.
He said the drum won't turn- - - - -"reading is fundamental"- - - -that means the shoes were stuck to the drum. I started doing brake work in the early 1960's. Chances are the junk truck had the parking brake set for years, and the shoes rusted to the drum. I've seen that happen several times.
Yeah - reading is essential, and so is comprehension of what is read. In none of beans' posts did he say that the drum will not spin/turn - where did you comprehend that?
Send him a PM and tell him you taught school for 74 years but only after you mined asbestos with a pick and shovel at Johns Manville for 30 years first. That impresses everyone.
Ha - simply ain't me !
Is it the shoes grabbing? If so, try backing off the adjuster.
That
Is it the shoes grabbing? If so, try backing off the adjuster.
That
Yes, saw that - it's an inquiry with related suggestion (good one) - it is not Beans (the OP) stating that the drums will not turn. I'm glad he got it sorted out and done.
Brute force
Heat
Ingenuity
Panther piss
Not necessarily in that order
Rinse - Repeat