I replaced the water inlets on both toilets recently with the type without the “bulb”. But the water level kept dropping and allowing the inlets to run so I bought new flappers. No change so I bought 2 new valves today and still have the same problem.

The water level slowly drops that activates the water inlets. For the time being I slipped a heavy washer over the flapper chain thinking more weight might make a better seal.

Then I realized the water levels are much lower than they used to be - perhaps as much as 1 1/2” - 2”. So I’m thinking maybe with the lower water level, there’s less weight of the water holding the flapper down. Too tired today but I’ll pull the inlets out tomorrow and raise the water levels back up to where they were long ago.

I’m at a loss at the moment so any help would be appreciated, thanks.

Do your "valves" have a fill tube on them,if so make sure the fill tube is not stuck way into the fill tube,can create a siphon effect.

Flappers start to seal immediately upon settling so the tank can fill up. They don't need a set amount of water weight on them in order to seal.

But the flappers are what the water leaks past. And your "inlets" are called fill valves. Make sure you are buying quality flappers.

Might need to check to see if the bottom ring at the tank drain the 'flapper' is supposed to cover and seal could have something wrong preventing the flapper from completely sealing it off.

Yes, both fill tubes are well down into the bowl fill tubes - below the existing tank water level. I pulled them up and I‘ll see how this works. Thanks.

Regarding the lower water level now, all the non "bulb" float type mechanisms if replaced have had a way to adjust the water level shut off point up or down some.

A few inches of extra “water column” isn’t going to be enough additional pressure to seat them “extra good”. I doubt that’s the problem.

Has to be something with the new flappers or where they are seating.

The float on the inlet should have an adjustment, either a screw, or slide, something to allow you to tune the water level.

I would get a whole new flush kit. Pretty cheap, and would eliminate a sticking inlet valve. If I need a new flapper I usually just toss in a new kit. Limestone water here, so stuff gets gummed up. 10 bucks and done.

https://www.amazon.com/Fluidmaster-...flush+kit&qid=1594074603&sr=8-23

When flapper seats there should be some slack in the chain, if not then the flapper will not seat. Disconnect the chain completely and see if the flapper seats and holds water.

Is this a one piece toilet or a two piece with separate tank and bowl? If flapper is seating well but still leaking then you most likely have a crack or chipped horn at the tank outlet.

Get a whole new kit and follow the directions closely. You can temporarily coat the bottom of the flapper with a liberal coat of Vaseline. If your leak stops it is a slow flapper leak. It could also be the tank gasket, or even a cracked tank.

We once had a rather fancy/expensive one-piece toilet setup and it was a slow leaker - very frustrating - tried more than one new rubber flap to no avail and then decided to smear a heavy coat of vaseline on the brass valve seat - that stopped it. So, drained the thing, removed that brass seat and thought about resurfacing it - but decided to shop a bit - found a new one - problem fixed.

I shortened the fill hoses so they didn’t touch the water level inside the tube above the flapper and that appears to have solved the problem.