bought a wood stove, one of those classic looking rectangular models on 4 legs, takes 19" logs.



I'm going to put it in my workshop but space is tight, and I also have attic space so I just can't go straight up thru the roof. I'm going to need to go out a side wall
pricing is all over the place for stove pipe. I can get a 90 degree galvanized bend for $22 or I can spend some serious money.

Anything I need to know before I go with the basics?

Selkirk type, double wall insulated, 6" likely would be big enough for the boxwood stove.

Keep the chimney clean, and good luck!

damn, now I got to build a chimney!

I have one of those in my two story garage. I just run an elbow and cheap steel pipe out the wall. Although my walls are concrete block. I have to replace my pipe about every 3-4 years cause it cheap.


I also like to toss .22 ammo in the fire. I worked my way up to .357 mag. Makes a nice pop.

It's not that hard, or expensive to either buy, or rig up a chimney from tubing.

Do it right, do it to local code,----the first time.

Just keep in mind, you're going to need a thick ceramic thimble going through the wall. I know a guy who set his house on fire even tough he had a ceramic thimble around the pipe.

Ours in NW Ontario.

Most any lumber yard will have all you need.

You need heat that far south?

Seriously. Get a wall thimble and insulated pipe to go through the wall and up. Regular stove pipe is fine inside of the building.

Alright looks like I am going to have to get educated on this

So simple a caveman can do it.

So simple a caveman can do it. You can cook a bit on that stove in a pinch.

https://www.hearth.com/talk/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIgpvg8_r47AIVRBh9Ch0OdARnEAAYASAAEgLqy_D_BwE

Toss in some baking pertaytors



I got my little woodstove for $50 from the wife’s great aunt.

Thanks I will read up tonight

Do not use galvanized pipe. Never.

can run single wall pipe to the wall of the building, then if the wall that you go through is flammable, triple wall pipe through the wall, double wall pipe all the way up on the outside.

That double wall stainless is not cheap. that's what I got on the outside.

I went through this site for directions and all the pipe I needed.

https://www.woodlanddirect.com/chimney-and-stove-pipe/?msclkid=cbdb0ce2eace147645d65349f25c80cf&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Chimney%20Pipe%20-%20Old&utm_term=Chimney%20Pipe&utm_content=Chimney%20Pipe%2FG

No on the galvanized pipe as it will make hazardous fumes. When penetrating walls or attic roof areas youll need Class-A insulated stainless stove venting. The only other alternative is use block and terra cota type liner with a thimble.

Buy the double wall stainless, try to get as much fall on the horizontal part as you can. The double wall may save your shop from burning up. Sleeve where you penetrate the wall, pack fire proof insulation between sleeve and vent pipe, caulk with fire proof caulking. That’s the proper way to install the vent through a wall.


Does it recommend a size? If you have a horizontal run you should increase one size according to the codes around here, but what the hell do I know.

Ghostinthemachine is your Sensei.

Hearth.com I have been a member over there for 11 years and those guys know it all. I have had 7 wood stoves over the years, I currently have a $2500 Norwegian stove that cost another $1600 to install. I know a lot about wood stoves but the gearheads on hearth.com know more than I do.

No need to get fancy , a chainsaw is all you need . Stick'er through the wall and plug the gaps with old underwear and get some infant size diapers . Perfect . Use old rags soaked in diesel and there's no need for kindlin . Spark 'er off !

[bleep] yeah!

Jotul, I assume?

Hearth.com is great, I read it all the time but am not a member.

Yes I have a Jotul Oslo 500.

That's as good as it gets. Congrats, looks great.

Most stoves go straight up thru the attic. Use the proper piping! Probably save as compared to up, bend, pipe out, bend and pipe up! Unless you have and obstruction in the attic. Roof jacks are cheaper than, metalbestos elbows, and eve hangers! As said before follow the building code, even if you forego the permit!

Yup, strait out the wall , then straight up, and I always put a cleanout in that 90 outside of the wall, but ymmv! Good little stoves, practice with the right tool for lifting the top and sliding it to the side. Makes it easy to add wood, just don't want to have a few drinks and screw that move up with a loaded stove!

Wabi and this guy is right. I would add to make sure you use an insulation collar in the attic and a shingle collar with vent holes under the rain ring. Installation must be perfect. A plumb bob is your friend.

a laser plumbbob is SOOOOO much easier......

With that stove that you have, you can go straight out through the wall, make another 90, and go up. And as someone said put a cleanout boot in that 90 outside the house.

These hyper efficient new stoves need to go straight up and won't burn well with a couple of 90 degree bends.

You can go straight up through the attic if you wanted to. In my living room have black single wall to the ceiling into a junction box rated. Then 2100 degree double wall out through the attic and roof. That 2100 degree rated pipe is expensive. She draws good straight up


Out the wall works too

Plenty of pictures out there and an easy formula to let you know how high to run the pipe so it draws correctly. Sometimes the stove instruction book has the pictures

ha! I've heard of shooting a hole with a 22 for a pilot.

Straight up will draft better.
Consider problems(valleys) at roof penetrations.
Exterior 90s will need to be replaced as they tend to rust.(out the wall install)
More pipe in the house equals more heat.(vertical install)

Straight up would require a transition box at the ceiling to carry the chimney weight and switch to insulated pipe in the attic.

Why can’t you run insulated pipe through the attic?

That would be the preferred route, IMO.

I guess I am going to kill myself reading all of the Do not's.
I built my Wood Stove. Lined the bottom with Fire Brick.
Made the Bottom a Funnel so that I can clean the ash out side instead of inside to keep the ash dust down in the 300 sq. ft cabin it is in.
I used a 1/2 thick plate for the top because that is what I had on hand. It has two doors on it (1) with Mesh so I can watch the Fire and (1) solid so when I want to slow the burn or want darkness I can close it . (one is mounted on one side of the stove and the other on the other side of the stove). No need to be fumbling around swapping doors.
I also used 6 in. Sch 40 pipe for the first section of my flew with a Home made Damper and another 2 ft of 6 in. Sch 40 vertical pipe and then a 6 in Sch 40 90 deg. bend the horizontal smoke pipe coming off of that is an 1/8 in. rolled Black sheet steel with a solid welded seam.
This pipe has a 1 in thick Ceramic Blanket thermo break an another fabricated 16 Ga. outer pipe acting like a double wall pipe going threw the wall (heat insulated with the Ceramic Blanket) out side of the cabin I have a 6 in.16 Gage Galvanized fab'ed pipe that runs into a 1/8 in. thick Fabricated 90 deg. elbow and then back to the 16 Gage Galvanized chimney all the way up to the Home fab'ed Galvanized spark arrest er that sits on top.
I would Never use Galvanized pipe for a fire place inside of the building but I see no problem using it out side.
You should Never have any down draft after your stove and stove pipe is heated up. So there should be no problem with the Galvanized pipe out side of the building.
Maybe I am wrong and maybe I will be dead by the end of winter.
Zinc Poisoning is no fun. I have had it and I know many people that have had it. You do not want it.

As stated, do not EVER use galvanized pipe as a chimney. The fumes it gives off will be poisonous. First you know of it is when you end up feeling like you have the flu. Hit me when I was a young guy, welding galvanized plate on a job.

Stove like that needs to be 3 feet from any combustible surface(this includes wood framing behind a wall sheathing that is noncombustible). You can cut that distance in half by installing a noncombustible shield with a 1” minimum air gap between the shield and the wall. Shield needs to be at least 1 inch off the floor and end three to four inches below the ceiling. It should extend 18 inches past the stove on both sides. If stove is in a corner, or within 3 feet of a sidewall, both walls must be shielded or have sufficient clear space from stove. Assume shop floor is concrete? If a flammable surface, more hoops to jump through.

https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/15139224/1

I’ve got an Englander 30 with a 90 degree setup like you’re talking about. I used a double wall (black non-insulated) on the inside. Doesn’t radiate as much heat as single wall, but won’t rust up and look “ugly” as quick, either.

Stainless thimble through the wall (buy a kit), then 9 feet of double wall stainless up from there. You want about 15’ of minimum “height” (above the level of the fire) for decent drafting. Look st local code for recommendations regarding the height your chimney needs to be above your roof peak/etc.

The outside stainless doublel wall pipe is about $30 a foot ($90 for a 3’ section). I had more tied up in my chimney ($600-$800 total), than in my stove.

The cabin originally had single wall pipe inside AND outside. It’s lucky they didn’t burn the thing up. The outside pipe had tons of sticky creosote in it, which forms much easier in a single wall pipe than in an insulated double wall.

They also had a stove much like yours’ in it. The stove worked ok, but because those are pretty “leaky” (lots of areas where air can come in), they won’t last more than about 3-4 hours on a load of wood. Put a damper a couple of feet above the stove, in case you have to choke it down, so the fire doesn’t get away from you (too hot).

Spend the extra $300-$400 to do the chimney right, rather than half-azzing it. It’ll last longer, and more importantly, be safer..

no chit.... It mainly affects the ability to spell. Flue/through....

Enabler!

Yep I am an old welder and was not good in English.
Good catch

I guess I'll go straight insulated pipe after reading this and the other thread linked.

My workshop has a metal roof

Don’t forget the 10 foot-2 foot-3 foot rule.