Does anyone have any experience with this kind of of leveling ramps? They look good in theory. I'm tired of using 2x6's. My pickup has a stick shift which might make it slightly more difficult to get it just right.

Rock, I've never seen those before - but I'll make a circle through the park and see if any are in use. And keep an eye open.

I have and use those ramps. In an RV park on asphalt they work OK, I have a rubber hammer that I use to drive them tight against the tire because they will want to slide back as you are trying to back up on them. The rubber mat is worthless. In the mountains I have used them, but I have a 2x12 that is 8' that I back onto first then use those to level from there. Sometimes I only need one to level or both if I have to do some serious leveling. I have heard that people have broken them in two, but I am not sure how because they are pretty stout.

They look like a good way to get hurt. The idea with blocks is to level and stabilize the RV, not make it less stable. Park on a hill and wonder what will happen.

I have 2 brothers in law who use them with their campers. Maybe not that brand but something similar. They have used them for several years.

kwg

Actually MM879 when you get them leveled they are more stable than boards and I am very anal about leveling because I have a wife that runs the level when I am done. She starts at the front bedroom and checks level all the way back to the garage making sure the entire trailer is level. I have given up trying to explain to her that if the front is level so is the back unless I really screwed up and twisted the frame.

You (& the online reviews) sold me. I just ordered a 2-pack and will give them a test run when we head for Lake Mead next month. If slipping is an issue I'll use BluMtn's approach and put my 2x8 down first.

I use them on the car hauler/camper. They work as advertised for me. They only give 4" or so rise so carrying few 2x8 boards are recommended it you need more than 4".

There are several brands of them out there. All are rated at FAR more than our TT weighs. They're supposed to work with large 5th wheels and motor homes.
We'll camp on dirt or gravel 95% of the time. I can count the times we've camped on pavement on one foot. Reviews are very good and seldom say they slip but there's no way of knowing how many of those are on pavement or dirt. Of course many of the 5 star reviews are worthless stuff like 'We haven't used them yet but they came in a very nice box'.

They work great.....zero issues.

I've used them on asphalt, gravel, and dirt.

East to back onto as the kids watch the bubble levels.

I fail to see how they'd make a trailer less stable than a stack of boards. They cup the tires so they can't roll either direction, like having 4 chocks on tandem axles, they're wider than the tires, and rated to carry a lot of weight.

They are very stable...the wedge locks them together.

Chock the wheels on the opposite side, and you're GTG. I've parked on some pretty uneven ground and never had a concern.

I quit caring about being dead level so long as I'm close.
Doesn't effect anything but my range top so I made a leveling system for that.

When boondocking it's way too easy to lower a tire or two by shoveling a few inches of ground on the high side and pile it on the low side.
3 or 4 inches of leveling can be done in moments if the ground is accommodating enough.

I've done that many times. Rocks are often an issue, though.

I spent my $$ on leveling jacks mounted permanently on the camper. A few turns of the handles & I’m done. Makes it a 3-point stability.

I use 2x6s on my trailer. But the SIL has the plastic wedges. Either will get the RV close. Final leveling is done with jacks.

I carry four Chevy pickup scissor jacks in my trailer. SIL has electric over hydraulic.

Most of the trailers you buy now unless special ordered come with "stabilizer jacks" not leveling jacks. A friend learned that the expensive way when we were in the mountains and he tried to level his new trailer with those stabilizing jacks and folded them under. I like the auto leveling jacks on the new fifthwheel trailers, except we have camped in some places that there is not enough travel on those jacks to level the trailer.

I have a 5th wheel and use those levelers. They work well. I still carry 2x6 boards but have rarely had to use them. They are worth it.

I have been using a similar set up for a couple years. This style of blocks and the X Chocks really cut down on set up time.

The jacks on mine are rated at 7,000lb. That means they'll HOLD 7000, not lift it. I tried to get the lifting weight from the manufacturer and they wouldn't tell me.
Instead of the handle that came with them, I use an 18v Milwaukee drill with a 3/4" socket. It runs them up and down really fast.

I use the Andersen brand. They're made in the USA and work very well, especially in conjunction with a large front-mounted level. They will slide in the mud, as you would expect.

I wouldn't waste my money on any made-in-China crap version.

https://andersenhitches.com/Products/3604--camper-leveler.aspx

Would tapping them under the tires with a hammer prevent the slipping or will they scoot like a sled with the weight on them?

Depends on how slick it is. Setting up in elk camp in 2019 was a sloppy mess. We finally got them to stay put by holding pressure against them while pulling forward. Just be careful. That's the only time I had issues with them slipping and I wasn't surprised when it happened. Overall, the convenience far outweighs that one issue.

I have found that if I don't tap them tight against the tires that the tire will not pull up onto the ramp. I tap them tight and then the tire will walk up onto the ramps. Once I have everything leveled the next step is to put tire locks in between the tires. Once everything is leveled and locked I have never had any movement.

https://www.etrailer.com/Wheel-Chocks/Ultra-Fab-Products/UF21-001070.html

At what degree of cant do you folks figure you need to get level.

Half a bubble.

Thanks.

No more of that monkey business for me.
I have 6 point self leveling hydraulic jacks.
Line up some boards under the jacks to reduce any shake by keeping the rams short, push a button, and let it do it's thing !

I level the RV as carefully as I level the reticle in a rifle scope. I have two 9 inch torpedo levels and a 24 inch level in the camper.

I have no real data, but have always been told the refrigerator needs to be very level for maximum efficiency.

At half a bubble off plumb, the thing would drive me nuts.

My wife WOULD drive me nuts. We were camping at an RV park a year ago and she approved the level job. We were there for a week. So on day three I come in the trailer and she has the level on the floor and then the kitchen counter. The bubble is off by about 1/2. When the dust settled I was under the trailer with a bottle jack releveling the trailer, because there was noway I was hooking the trailer back up and repositioning it to level it. An RV refrigerator will work when it is not very level but not as efficiently. The newer refers will take more than the old ones will though as as far as being out of level.

My fridge doesn't seem to be that critical but if I don't get it very level the sinks won't drain completely.

Ha, not all of us are high-rollers like you!

I wish.
Frugal shopper !!

That's me. The scissor jacks came from a "Pick your own part" salvage yard. I each out of four Chevy 1/2 ton pickups. $5 or maybe $10 each.

That's what i do, when possible. As long as I am close to level, it done!