I'm not certain I have any sludge, I don't think so with the car, maintenance history and mileage but I'm getting intermittent low oil warnings on my car whenever brake hard, occasionally it just happens while driving as well.
I always check the oil and I'm never low. I have replaced the oil sending unit twice over the last 18 months or so and that doesn't fix the problem. I had an old ratty Galant with 200K miles and the low oil light would come on at idle. I ended up putting in 10W-40 and that "thicker" oil seem to solve the problem - at least with the oil light coming on. But this isn't a repeatable thing. It happens for a few days then goes away for 2 months then starts up again.
I'm thinking that maybe I have some low level sludge build up? It may very well be an electrical gremlin but short of tracing wires I've done the obvious.
If there was a "shortcut" to addressing sludge, I was thinking that maybe adding marvel mystery oil to the crankcase, running the car a bit and then flushing it with two oil changes might be a way to clean it out.
I've always changed the oil with synthetic every 3000 miles and I am at 136K miles now.
I don't know if it will help - I just want opinions on whether it will hurt anything.
My dad used to always run about a 1/2 to 3/4 pint of diesel fuel in his motors for a few minutes before he changed his oil. Help or not?, it never seemed to hurt them.
Only thing about "flushing " an engine is the better
than average chance of breaking loose all the built
up sludge, only to have it severely clog the oil
pickup screen, then you are truly screwed.
Used to be when vehicles had a screen and a
sump that the screen poked down into, you could
drain the oil and refill it with a about a gallon or
two of solvent or naphtha and let it sit and soak
for a couple of days, and it would melt a lot of
the sludge and you could take the plug out and
drain it and pour more stuff through with the plug
out and the remnants would rinse on out.
I'm not sure at all about the modern OHC engines
because of their complicated oiling systems.
Not all all like an old V8 engine
Good Luck
What kind of vehicle? I saw a youtube video where a mechanic pointed out on a 2006 or so 5.3 Chevy that the seal on the oil pick up tube can get hard and not seal properly causing a drop in oil pressure.
3000 mile oil changes seems a little early and kind of expensive. I sold my 2000 F250 with 220,000 miles and it was on a 5-7000 mile syn blend schedule. The guy driving it now is a friend and is really happy with it.
I had a 99 4cyl Camry and a TOyota Avalon 6cyl of the same year brought new. They purportedly had serious sludge issues(I know it was a Toyota:)) . I used mobil 1 on both vehicles and had valve covers removed one at 75 k and the other at 200 k and there was hardly any sign of oil residue buildup in both engines.
2007 Acura MDX 3.7L
I guess it could be the sending unit, that would be the general culprit, but its either shorting out the ones I replace it with or I got 2 bad ones in a row because I have put 2 on it in less than 2 years.
What kind of vehicle? Is it a low Pressure light or a low Level light? My old Buick had both. If the oil got over a quart low, the low level light would come on and I knew it was time to add a quart.
Jerry
its an oil level warning - comes up thru the dash and on the navigation display unit
It sounds like it could be the oil pick up tube on the oil pump. If the oil isn't low, and you have changed out 2 different sending units, I would think you could rule out the sending unit. Could be the gauge also?
It isn't unheard of to have the pickup get loose from the pump. Some are just crimped on.
Clyde
so that would mean dropping the oil pan. That wouldn't be that big of a deal to do. Probably give me a good idea of what is going on in the engine.
I'm not certain I have any sludge, I don't think so with the car, maintenance history and mileage but I'm getting intermittent low oil warnings on my car whenever brake hard, occasionally it just happens while driving as well.
I always check the oil and I'm never low. I have replaced the oil sending unit twice over the last 18 months or so and that doesn't fix the problem. I had an old ratty Galant with 200K miles and the low oil light would come on at idle. I ended up putting in 10W-40 and that "thicker" oil seem to solve the problem - at least with the oil light coming on. But this isn't a repeatable thing. It happens for a few days then goes away for 2 months then starts up again.
I'm thinking that maybe I have some low level sludge build up? It may very well be an electrical gremlin but short of tracing wires I've done the obvious.
If there was a "shortcut" to addressing sludge, I was thinking that maybe adding marvel mystery oil to the crankcase, running the car a bit and then flushing it with two oil changes might be a way to clean it out.
I've always changed the oil with synthetic every 3000 miles and I am at 136K miles now.
I don't know if it will help - I just want opinions on whether it will hurt anything.
..........................Well to begin with, if you have been running synthetic oil and on top of that been changing that oil every 3,000 miles then you certainly should not have any engine sludge problems whatsoever. One of the main reasons why synthetic oils should be used is because they do not have the petroleum based acidities and other more harmful properties that regular non synthetic motor oils have and synthetics do not break down nearly as quick as non synthetic oils. Since you have been using a synthetic oil and another reason for using synthetics, is that there is no need for any oil additives. Oil additives imo treat the problems that non synthetic oils create. So in your case adding Marvel Mystery oil imo would not change anything nor improve anything.....Imho you have an electrical problem of some sort, possibly an electrical short or possibly a defective gauge that is causing your intermittent problem when braking hard. As long as your oil level is ok, are not leaking any oil or have no oil burning internal issues then you'll be fine. You might want to take your vehicle to an auto electrical shop to trace down any possible shorts which could be a bad wire or a bad connection of some kind.
I've always changed the oil with synthetic every 3000 miles and I am at 136K miles now.
I can't see you having any sludge with that regime and I certainly wouldn't do something like that Marvel Mystery Oil routine. I'd look for another cause.
having the same engine in 2 different vehicles.... its definitely an electrical issue....
if you aren't needing to add any oil, when it says you are a quart low...
I change the oil on those two engines I have, one every 10k ( the Acura RL ) and on the Honda Pilot every 20k, with a filter change ever 10 K.
running Mobil 1 on both engines... last time on the valve adjustment, no varnish or sludge on the upper valves & head. 310K on that engine.
engine uses a quart on the Honda ever 5K or so... so I wouldn't worry about the " oil issue" too much...
I concur...
Hard to believe 3k oil changes with synthetic would EVER build sludge.
If you pull the sending unit... bench test it. If you still have the old ones... bench test them as well.
It sounds like it could be the oil pick up tube on the oil pump. If the oil isn't low, and you have changed out 2 different sending units, I would think you could rule out the sending unit. Could be the gauge also?
It isn't unheard of to have the pickup get loose from the pump. Some are just crimped on.
Clyde
Excellent point. Pickup, gauge, wire, ground all potential suspects
----------------------------------------------------
Check your owners manual... use the thinnest oil in the winter... always better to potentially burn a little that fight thickness.
We got a 1998 Isuzu a month or two back... don't quote me, but I think the owners manual recommended oil from 5w-20 to 20w-50... WTF?
Might it be that the sending unit you have been changing is a pressure sending unit and the warning you are getting is for low oil LEVEL?
Is there another sending unit for the oil level?
Only thing about "flushing " an engine is the better than average chance of breaking loose all the built
up sludge, only to have it severely clog the oil pickup screen, then you are truly screwed.
Better there - done that - ruined an engine.
I had a lifter start making noise at a little over 377,00 on my 2005 6.0 Chevrolet while I was on the road. I found a quick lube next to an O'Reilly's. I dumped a quart of engine flush and let it idle in the parking lot for a little over 5 minutes then idled to the quick lube and got the cheapest oil change. Things are still good 6,000 miles later.
I mostly run mobile synthetic so I assume my engine was fairly clean. Although it was gummed up enough for a lifter to start sticking.
The worst thing to happen to the IC engine design is direct injection. This eliminated valves being washed/cleaned by the fuel/air mixture. Even worse is adding regenerative exhaust to DI engines and the absolute worst thing is adding turbo(s) to the aforementioned design - aka Ford's EcoBoost engine.
Pull the head on an EcoBoost engine with 15,000 miles on it and you will see what I am talking about. I've seen cleaner junkyard motors with 100,000+ miles that have been sitting for a decade.
Needs new sensor and computer upgrade
TSB 09-012
Called the Acura dealer about the TSB. They looked it up and were only going to charge me 150.00 parts and labor ($46.00 for the sensor)to replace it. Apparently there was a computer upgrade they had to do along with the replacement. Took it in to the Acura dealer, took 45 minutes to complete, and they comped the cost as a goodwill gesture
The worst thing to happen to the IC engine design is direct injection. This eliminated valves being washed/cleaned by the fuel/air mixture. Even worse is adding regenerative exhaust to DI engines and the absolute worst thing is adding turbo(s) to the aforementioned design - aka Ford's EcoBoost engine.
Pull the head on an EcoBoost engine with 15,000 miles on it and you will see what I am talking about. I've seen cleaner junkyard motors with 100,000+ miles that have been sitting for a decade.
Ford changed the design at least on the 3.5 eco boost to do both direct and port injection in 2017.
Is it an oil level or oil pressure warning? One is a sender on the pan, the other is a pressure sensor. The pressure sensor should shut the engine down or at least throw a bunch of lights.
its an oil level warning - comes up thru the dash and on the navigation display unit
Might it be that the sending unit you have been changing is a pressure sending unit and the warning you are getting is for low oil LEVEL?
Is there another sending unit for the oil level?
You are missing this OP!
I've always changed the oil with synthetic every 3000 miles and I am at 136K miles now.
Complete waste of time, money and effort. What's the point of using synthetic? I'll pay extra for syn so I don't have to change oil but once or twice a year - at least 6k miles. The oil computer on the truck always lets me go longer than 6K
its an oil level warning - comes up thru the dash and on the navigation display unit
Might it be that the sending unit you have been changing is a pressure sending unit and the warning you are getting is for low oil LEVEL?
Is there another sending unit for the oil level?
You are missing this OP!
Hopefully KFWA saw this post by chris_c.
https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbt...n-engine-marvel-mystery-oil#Post16937691
What kind of oil are you using, dinosauer or full synthetic?
I have over 1,000,000 miles on vehiches that have always run full synthetic, with oil and filter changes every 6,000 miles. Only one engine problem, a 1987 Chevy 2.8L V6. The engine was so loose after 100,000 miles that the oil woiuld be filled with flakes of carbon, never seen anything like it before or since. I've never had any sludge, either in the valve train or in the sump in any other vehicle.
If you can drop the pan without too much trouble, you'd know if you have a sludge problem.
I've got a 2003 Honda Pilot with the 3.5L V6. 181K and clean oil. When it is under 20F, a cold engine start will illuminate the low oil pressure light, but if you turn the engine off and start it again there isn't any low oil pressure light. The is with 5-20 full synthetic.
Good luck!
For 2007-2008 MDX: make sure that the vehicle has the correct software loaded. If not, update the PGM-FI software.
This bulletin applies to 2007-2011 Acura MDX, 2009-2010 RL, 2009-2011 TL, 2010 TSX V6 and 2010-2011 Acura ZDX.
With a normal engine oil level, a “check engine oil level” message may appear on the MID or the navigation screen. The low oil pressure indicator on the instrument panel may also illuminate. The probable cause is a faulty oil pressure switch.
The corrective action is to replace the oil pressure switch. For 2007 and early production 2008 MDXs, also check the PGM-FI software and if necessary, update it with the HDS.
On 2007 MDXs and early production 2008 MDXs, the threads of the oil pressure switch are different than all other models, including later MDXs
The worst thing to happen to the IC engine design is direct injection. This eliminated valves being washed/cleaned by the fuel/air mixture. Even worse is adding regenerative exhaust to DI engines and the absolute worst thing is adding turbo(s) to the aforementioned design - aka Ford's EcoBoost engine.
Pull the head on an EcoBoost engine with 15,000 miles on it and you will see what I am talking about. I've seen cleaner junkyard motors with 100,000+ miles that have been sitting for a decade.
Ford changed the design at least on the 3.5 eco boost to do both direct and port injection in 2017.
They did, but ring blow-by is still an issue and now fuel injection problems have cropped up with the redesign.
If I had an EcoBoost (and I never will) I would change oil every 3,000 miles and add a catch can/oil separator on the PVC/regenerative gas system. Not a complete fix, but a step in the right direction.
2007 Acura MDX 3.7L
I guess it could be the sending unit, that would be the general culprit, but its either shorting out the ones I replace it with or I got 2 bad ones in a row because I have put 2 on it in less than 2 years.
There is a dealer TSB for the issue;
2007 Acura Truck MDX V6-3.7L
Engine Controls - False 'Check Engine Oil Level' Message
Vehicle Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - False 'Check Engine Oil Level' Message
ENGINE CONTROLS - FALSE 'CHECK ENGINE OIL LEVEL' MESSAGE
09-012
June 7, 2011
Applies To:
2007-11 MDX - ALL
2009-10 RL-ALL
2009-11 TL-ALL
2010 TSX V6-ALL
2010-11 ZDX-ALL
MID or Navi Shows a Check Engine Oil Level Message, Low Oil Pressure
Indicator May Be On
(Supersedes 09-012, dated January 15, 2010; see REVISION SUMMARY)
REVISION SUMMARY
This service bulletin was revised extensively. American Honda recommends that you review all sections thoroughly.
SYMPTOM
With a normal engine oil level, a "check engine oil level" message appears on the MID or the navigation screen. The low oil pressure indicator on the instrument panel may also be on.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The engine oil pressure switch is faulty.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the engine oil pressure switch. For 2007 and early production 2008 MDXs, also check the PGM-FI software and, if necessary, update it with the HDS
The worst thing to happen to the IC engine design is direct injection. This eliminated valves being washed/cleaned by the fuel/air mixture. Even worse is adding regenerative exhaust to DI engines and the absolute worst thing is adding turbo(s) to the aforementioned design - aka Ford's EcoBoost engine.
Pull the head on an EcoBoost engine with 15,000 miles on it and you will see what I am talking about. I've seen cleaner junkyard motors with 100,000+ miles that have been sitting for a decade.
Ford changed the design at least on the 3.5 eco boost to do both direct and port injection in 2017.
They did, but ring blow-by is still an issue and now fuel injection problems have cropped up with the redesign.
If I had an EcoBoost (and I never will) I would change oil every 3,000 miles and add a catch can/oil separator on the PVC/regenerative gas system. Not a complete fix, but a step in the right direction.
One more reason to stay away from Ford products, Yet people get drawn to them every year.
Needs new sensor and computer upgrade
TSB 09-012
Called the Acura dealer about the TSB. They looked it up and were only going to charge me 150.00 parts and labor ($46.00 for the sensor)to replace it. Apparently there was a computer upgrade they had to do along with the replacement. Took it in to the Acura dealer, took 45 minutes to complete, and they comped the cost as a goodwill gesture
Got scooped !
Just barely quicker
Needs new sensor and computer upgrade
TSB 09-012
Called the Acura dealer about the TSB. They looked it up and were only going to charge me 150.00 parts and labor ($46.00 for the sensor)to replace it. Apparently there was a computer upgrade they had to do along with the replacement. Took it in to the Acura dealer, took 45 minutes to complete, and they comped the cost as a goodwill gesture
Got scooped !
I would think finding out what sensor sets off this alarm be it pressure or an actual level sensor would be a good starting place.
In other words find out if you really have a problem or is this an alarm you can either ignore or fix with a sensor...
Just barely quicker
Needs new sensor and computer upgrade
TSB 09-012
Called the Acura dealer about the TSB. They looked it up and were only going to charge me 150.00 parts and labor ($46.00 for the sensor)to replace it. Apparently there was a computer upgrade they had to do along with the replacement. Took it in to the Acura dealer, took 45 minutes to complete, and they comped the cost as a goodwill gesture
Got scooped !
there you go
Low oil light on hard braking? Hard braking gonna move oil to the front end of the oil pan, right?
Where is the oil pickup located in the oil pan?
some good info here
I'll look into the links
thanks guys
I'm not a mechanic so don't go on my word.
My former boss bought a 1976 chevy truck that had been setting in a barn for 14 years. Thing looked great. We put fresh plugs in it and a new battery and it would turn and turn but wouldn't fire off. We took the cover off and could see that the valves were gummed up pretty good. We tried multiple different kinds of oil with no luck, but when we doused them with marvels mystery oil. It fired off like it had never missed a beat. He poured 2 quarts in the oil and sone in the 14 yr old gas and the thing still hasn't missed a beat. Made a believer out of me.
IIRC, the guy who does Project Farm on Youtube has done a review of MMO.
I know that I recall seeing a video that he did on Seafoam in a Ford Ranger that had some issues and he fellt that the Seafoam cleaned up the valve train that had sticky lifters.
I would only use fluids that promise to fix engine, transmission, or coolant issues as a last resort.
Put a manual oil gauge on it temporarily so you can see exactly what is going on.
I've always changed the oil with synthetic every 3000 miles and I am at 136K miles now.
I can't see you having any sludge with that regime and I certainly wouldn't do something like that Marvel Mystery Oil routine. I'd look for another cause.
That is what I was going to say!. There is no way you have sludge in that engine. Syn. oil hardly has any sludge build at all, and at 3K changes, with that low miles, no matter what oil you use , it should never have sludge.