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I had a lifter start making noise at a little over 377,00 on my 2005 6.0 Chevrolet while I was on the road. I found a quick lube next to an O'Reilly's. I dumped a quart of engine flush and let it idle in the parking lot for a little over 5 minutes then idled to the quick lube and got the cheapest oil change. Things are still good 6,000 miles later.

I mostly run mobile synthetic so I assume my engine was fairly clean. Although it was gummed up enough for a lifter to start sticking.


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The worst thing to happen to the IC engine design is direct injection. This eliminated valves being washed/cleaned by the fuel/air mixture. Even worse is adding regenerative exhaust to DI engines and the absolute worst thing is adding turbo(s) to the aforementioned design - aka Ford's EcoBoost engine.

Pull the head on an EcoBoost engine with 15,000 miles on it and you will see what I am talking about. I've seen cleaner junkyard motors with 100,000+ miles that have been sitting for a decade.


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Needs new sensor and computer upgrade

TSB 09-012

Called the Acura dealer about the TSB. They looked it up and were only going to charge me 150.00 parts and labor ($46.00 for the sensor)to replace it. Apparently there was a computer upgrade they had to do along with the replacement. Took it in to the Acura dealer, took 45 minutes to complete, and they comped the cost as a goodwill gesture

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Originally Posted by STRSWilson
The worst thing to happen to the IC engine design is direct injection. This eliminated valves being washed/cleaned by the fuel/air mixture. Even worse is adding regenerative exhaust to DI engines and the absolute worst thing is adding turbo(s) to the aforementioned design - aka Ford's EcoBoost engine.

Pull the head on an EcoBoost engine with 15,000 miles on it and you will see what I am talking about. I've seen cleaner junkyard motors with 100,000+ miles that have been sitting for a decade.


Ford changed the design at least on the 3.5 eco boost to do both direct and port injection in 2017.

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Is it an oil level or oil pressure warning? One is a sender on the pan, the other is a pressure sensor. The pressure sensor should shut the engine down or at least throw a bunch of lights.


Originally Posted by BrentD

I would not buy something that runs on any kind of primer given the possibility of primer shortages and even regulations. In fact, why not buy a flintlock? Really. Rocks aren't going away anytime soon.
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Originally Posted by KFWA
its an oil level warning - comes up thru the dash and on the navigation display unit

Originally Posted by Valsdad
Might it be that the sending unit you have been changing is a pressure sending unit and the warning you are getting is for low oil LEVEL?

Is there another sending unit for the oil level?




You are missing this OP!


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Originally Posted by KFWA

I've always changed the oil with synthetic every 3000 miles and I am at 136K miles now.


Complete waste of time, money and effort. What's the point of using synthetic? I'll pay extra for syn so I don't have to change oil but once or twice a year - at least 6k miles. The oil computer on the truck always lets me go longer than 6K

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Originally Posted by Dillonbuck
Originally Posted by KFWA
its an oil level warning - comes up thru the dash and on the navigation display unit

Originally Posted by Valsdad
Might it be that the sending unit you have been changing is a pressure sending unit and the warning you are getting is for low oil LEVEL?

Is there another sending unit for the oil level?




You are missing this OP!



Hopefully KFWA saw this post by chris_c.

https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbt...n-engine-marvel-mystery-oil#Post16937691


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In it is death and all you seek
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What kind of oil are you using, dinosauer or full synthetic?

I have over 1,000,000 miles on vehiches that have always run full synthetic, with oil and filter changes every 6,000 miles. Only one engine problem, a 1987 Chevy 2.8L V6. The engine was so loose after 100,000 miles that the oil woiuld be filled with flakes of carbon, never seen anything like it before or since. I've never had any sludge, either in the valve train or in the sump in any other vehicle.

If you can drop the pan without too much trouble, you'd know if you have a sludge problem.

I've got a 2003 Honda Pilot with the 3.5L V6. 181K and clean oil. When it is under 20F, a cold engine start will illuminate the low oil pressure light, but if you turn the engine off and start it again there isn't any low oil pressure light. The is with 5-20 full synthetic.

Good luck!

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For 2007-2008 MDX: make sure that the vehicle has the correct software loaded. If not, update the PGM-FI software.


This bulletin applies to 2007-2011 Acura MDX, 2009-2010 RL, 2009-2011 TL, 2010 TSX V6 and 2010-2011 Acura ZDX.

With a normal engine oil level, a “check engine oil level” message may appear on the MID or the navigation screen. The low oil pressure indicator on the instrument panel may also illuminate. The probable cause is a faulty oil pressure switch.

The corrective action is to replace the oil pressure switch. For 2007 and early production 2008 MDXs, also check the PGM-FI software and if necessary, update it with the HDS.

On 2007 MDXs and early production 2008 MDXs, the threads of the oil pressure switch are different than all other models, including later MDXs

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Originally Posted by Oldelkhunter
Originally Posted by STRSWilson
The worst thing to happen to the IC engine design is direct injection. This eliminated valves being washed/cleaned by the fuel/air mixture. Even worse is adding regenerative exhaust to DI engines and the absolute worst thing is adding turbo(s) to the aforementioned design - aka Ford's EcoBoost engine.

Pull the head on an EcoBoost engine with 15,000 miles on it and you will see what I am talking about. I've seen cleaner junkyard motors with 100,000+ miles that have been sitting for a decade.


Ford changed the design at least on the 3.5 eco boost to do both direct and port injection in 2017.


They did, but ring blow-by is still an issue and now fuel injection problems have cropped up with the redesign.

If I had an EcoBoost (and I never will) I would change oil every 3,000 miles and add a catch can/oil separator on the PVC/regenerative gas system. Not a complete fix, but a step in the right direction.


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Originally Posted by KFWA
2007 Acura MDX 3.7L

I guess it could be the sending unit, that would be the general culprit, but its either shorting out the ones I replace it with or I got 2 bad ones in a row because I have put 2 on it in less than 2 years.


There is a dealer TSB for the issue;

2007 Acura Truck MDX V6-3.7L
Engine Controls - False 'Check Engine Oil Level' Message
Vehicle Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - False 'Check Engine Oil Level' Message
ENGINE CONTROLS - FALSE 'CHECK ENGINE OIL LEVEL' MESSAGE
09-012

June 7, 2011

Applies To:
2007-11 MDX - ALL
2009-10 RL-ALL
2009-11 TL-ALL
2010 TSX V6-ALL
2010-11 ZDX-ALL

MID or Navi Shows a Check Engine Oil Level Message, Low Oil Pressure
Indicator May Be On

(Supersedes 09-012, dated January 15, 2010; see REVISION SUMMARY)

REVISION SUMMARY

This service bulletin was revised extensively. American Honda recommends that you review all sections thoroughly.

SYMPTOM

With a normal engine oil level, a "check engine oil level" message appears on the MID or the navigation screen. The low oil pressure indicator on the instrument panel may also be on.

PROBABLE CAUSE

The engine oil pressure switch is faulty.

CORRECTIVE ACTION

Replace the engine oil pressure switch. For 2007 and early production 2008 MDXs, also check the PGM-FI software and, if necessary, update it with the HDS


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Originally Posted by STRSWilson
Originally Posted by Oldelkhunter
Originally Posted by STRSWilson
The worst thing to happen to the IC engine design is direct injection. This eliminated valves being washed/cleaned by the fuel/air mixture. Even worse is adding regenerative exhaust to DI engines and the absolute worst thing is adding turbo(s) to the aforementioned design - aka Ford's EcoBoost engine.

Pull the head on an EcoBoost engine with 15,000 miles on it and you will see what I am talking about. I've seen cleaner junkyard motors with 100,000+ miles that have been sitting for a decade.


Ford changed the design at least on the 3.5 eco boost to do both direct and port injection in 2017.


They did, but ring blow-by is still an issue and now fuel injection problems have cropped up with the redesign.

If I had an EcoBoost (and I never will) I would change oil every 3,000 miles and add a catch can/oil separator on the PVC/regenerative gas system. Not a complete fix, but a step in the right direction.


One more reason to stay away from Ford products, Yet people get drawn to them every year.

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Originally Posted by chris_c
Needs new sensor and computer upgrade

TSB 09-012

Called the Acura dealer about the TSB. They looked it up and were only going to charge me 150.00 parts and labor ($46.00 for the sensor)to replace it. Apparently there was a computer upgrade they had to do along with the replacement. Took it in to the Acura dealer, took 45 minutes to complete, and they comped the cost as a goodwill gesture


grin

Got scooped !


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Just barely quicker
Originally Posted by New_2_99s
Originally Posted by chris_c
Needs new sensor and computer upgrade

TSB 09-012

Called the Acura dealer about the TSB. They looked it up and were only going to charge me 150.00 parts and labor ($46.00 for the sensor)to replace it. Apparently there was a computer upgrade they had to do along with the replacement. Took it in to the Acura dealer, took 45 minutes to complete, and they comped the cost as a goodwill gesture


grin

Got scooped !




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I would think finding out what sensor sets off this alarm be it pressure or an actual level sensor would be a good starting place.

In other words find out if you really have a problem or is this an alarm you can either ignore or fix with a sensor...

Last edited by okie; 02/08/22.

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Originally Posted by chris_c
Just barely quicker
Originally Posted by New_2_99s
Originally Posted by chris_c
Needs new sensor and computer upgrade

TSB 09-012

Called the Acura dealer about the TSB. They looked it up and were only going to charge me 150.00 parts and labor ($46.00 for the sensor)to replace it. Apparently there was a computer upgrade they had to do along with the replacement. Took it in to the Acura dealer, took 45 minutes to complete, and they comped the cost as a goodwill gesture


grin

Got scooped !




there you go


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Low oil light on hard braking? Hard braking gonna move oil to the front end of the oil pan, right?
Where is the oil pickup located in the oil pan?

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some good info here

I'll look into the links

thanks guys


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