I'm sure this has been talked about multiple times on here

I plan on selling my house in the near future so I'm holding off on putting in a hard wired generac system

that said, I'm not sure if something like this exists, but I'd like to be able to have a connection to my home where I can run my natural gas furnace (which is basically 110V for the fan and circuit board) and a few lights.

I've thought about just making a male to male extension cord, plugging it into an outlet on the circuit and the other end into my generator and turning the breakers off everywhere else but I really have no idea if that would work or not.

does anyone have a setup where you just hook a portable generator to a circuit panel in your home? I would think there is a setup for that.

There's a system called a load side transfer switch. Load side transfer switch It allows you to power selected circuits from a generator.

They make them in a couple of different sizes.

Yes it would "work" - NO you should NOT do it that way.

Look for a "Generator Breaker Panel Interlock Kit" for a relatively inexpensive code compliant option.

Or a manual transfer switch.

This^^^^
We have it, all circuits we want to have Gen access to are in a parallel box next to the main.
In power outage we roll Gen out to basement patio, throw 2 main switches, plug Gen in to dedicated outlet and are up and running.

yea I figured as much , maybe someone here will have that actual setup and can talk about the pros and cons of it.

I have a good 2000w generator with inverter - its gas of course

We don't lose power here very often at all - usually its a cycle where they go a few years without trimming trees, we get an ice storm and then we are down for a week

but now I'm starting to worry about the grid a bit.

But my concern is also running a gas generator for 1-2 weeks during a major outage.

so then that means either a flex fuel conversion, or buy a new generator - which then puts me back into , if its only $1k more to get a entry level generac, then just cry once and get that done with natural gas.

I'll have to do some Jethro Bodine calculations to figure this out.

gas powered? did you have an electrician set you up with it? how big is the gen and what do you run?

Can't do it unless you can shut of power coming into your home commercially. You don't want to be .Someone maybe working on it

gas powered? Yes

did you have an electrician set you up with it? Yes[built house with it, MIL had it added to their house recently as it's becoming very common]

how big is the gen and what do you run? 4400W peak We have all outlets from kitchen & basement[fridges/freezers etc] and well pump and a few select outlets for lights, TV. Just enough to make life as comfortable as possible during outages.

yea I get that , I wouldn't want to be that guy

Had my electrician install a X/fer switch in my main panel

Simple slide lock out that locks out the power company...but allows a generator to power the panel

You can only run one at a time..either one system or the other...totally safe

I only have a Yamaha 2800I...then I select the breakers I want to power

Two fridges...one freezer...TV/computer...mini split heat system...basement NG heater fan...selected lighting

Yes with only a 2800 unit you have to be selective..but its very doable

Cost was $300 or so...already had the Yamaha

Have considered a unit with more power..Hobo Freight sells decent inverters for under a grand

https://www.harborfreight.com/gener...uper-quiet-inverter-generator-56720.html

I think I'll call my electrician later on today and see what he can do for me

My Previous was very concerned about Y2K, so I bought a Generac 10.5K portable and had a transfer box installed. Tested it, then actually used it for maybe an hour after a hurricane came through. I had lights, water, fridge and freezer, microwave, and TV/tunes. No big stuff like range, WH, etc, but definitely the essentials. Mine auto adjusts to the load. A conversion kit will make it dual-fuel capable. It has a starter motor if needed, but the 19hp starts pretty easily with the pull rope.

Pretty easy to cut the mains before you switch over, then select what you want online. Generators do require some maintenance, and fuel lines and tank seals will deteriorate over time, so you need to keep up with that stuff. Bill O’Reilly had a fancy system installed, but when Sandy came through it didn’t start up, no doubt because he never had it serviced or ran it after installation.

Also a good idea to have a 6ga ground wire jumper to connect the generator to your earth ground, JIC. IIRC the chassis on mine has a lug for that.

No No No

We have run a cord into a window to power an LED light and a window AC. extension cord needs to be big enough to handle the load you put on it.

The way he does that can kill people. Simple as that. If the furnace is what you want, I'd go look, it may well be plugged into a receptacle but regardless I'd figure out how to just run a cord to it.

We have a manual transfer switch. Easy enough to wire in. Its just another panel. With a big lever so to speak. We don't have a big generator but you buy what you think you need, a few lights, all our fridge/freezer, the AC central air. Water well. Regardless you have to calc it.

We would then plug into that panel, and move the handle to generator and turn off all the non needed breakers at that point.

tag

Tag

Got a welder in your garage or shop? How about a clothes drier? I just made a pigtail that plugs the generator into my welder outlet. You just need a switch to keep it from back feeding through the power lines. You can just turn off the main breaker but an automatic transfer switch is a lot safer for anyone working on the power lines.
This is assuming you have a generator that puts out 240V. Using a 120v this way is a lot more complicated.

These work great and properly installed will not back feed, there fore it is safe.

Two notes:

Some are indoor service, some our outdoor service. Make sure you get what you need.

Mine is a 6 circuit model. Even on the smaller one it has a 240 Male plug to receive the power. One leg feeds three breakers, the other leg feeds the other three. Not a problem with a 240 Volt generator.

The OP mentioned he has a 2000W generator which is likely has only 110 output. This is what I use also. To make it work I made a jumper in the female 220 connector from one leg to the other on my extension cord from the generator to the panel. Has worked fine for 7 years and I have nearly 1000 hours on the generator. It is on my houseboat. If I do not need AC, I do not run my big diesel generator.

Yes. Transfer switch.

You don't wanna be hooked up with a generator when the power comes back on otherwise.

I bought a Champion (Yep, Chinese) 5kW inverter generator for about $800.00. Not the quietest, but it works well.

I am thinking of adding a generator also when needed. I saw a "generlink" set-up installed at the meter itself that would suit my needs better and easier I think. I will talk to my electrican and see what he thinks. Hope this helps...

That’s a great idea. Jury rigged generators are a bad idea. Fire hazard, insurance problems, life safety problems.
Duel fuel is a good idea for anyone using a generator. Gasoline becomes a problem long term. Storage and procurement.
Look online for appliance wattage use. It gives you a better idea to help size your generator needs. Hasbeen

No need to do this.....^^^^^^^

If you have a X/fer switch wired into your panel...

Select furnace breaker & you're all set !

If I were 20 years younger......but I'm not

This would be my choice in NG.....gas meter is 10' away

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200665217_200665217

We've got an interlock and breaker wired to a 50A inlet on the side of the house. Went with a 50A in case we ever upgraded. The portable gen hooks into the inlet via a 30A->50A cable.

Lose power..?

Plug in the generator. Start it. Flip the main to off. Move interlock. Flip the gen breaker to on. Instant power to the house. You can isolate portions of the house with the other breakers.

I'd get a dual fuel generator. That way you're not as limited and propane doesn't have the storage problems of gas.

as long as NG service is not destroyed in whatever outage you have.

Since we have all kinds it seems not foolproof. Though keeping fuel or propane on hand isn't either. Depending on length of outage.

not familiar with interlock. Will have to search that.

But if you are relying the main being off to protect linemen from getting electrocuted. DON"T

If I went with the generac, I think I could get by with that 10kw model
, heck I know I could if I'm trying to rig up a 2000w generator

Small transfer switch.

I picked up a Wen 2000 Gen/inverter as a lightweight spare....

Great product....runs very quiet & only weighs 44#

Well worth the $400


https://wenproducts.com/collections/generators

"Easy Button".... Cut the 110v electric supply line to your furnace. Put in a duplex receptacle on the breaker side of the cut. Put a male three prong plug on the furnace side of the cut. When the power goes out, run an extension cord from the generator to the furnace. Plug the furnace into the extension cord instead of the wall outlet. Less than $20 in parts. Less than 1 hour. If you can wire an outlet, you can wire this up. No electrician needed.

The interlock physically prevents the main and the generator breaker from being closed at the same time. One or the other. It's code compliant.

If you try to hook a 120v generator to your breaker panel, you'll run into some problems. The incoming grid power is 240v. It feeds through 2 arms of the panel, 120v on each side. If you hook up a 120v generator, only the breakers on that side will get power. Depending on how the box is built, it won't be all the breakers on the left or the right. They'll probably alternate as you go down the row. Whether a circuit gets power depends on where the breaker is in the panel. A 240v gen will power both sides so they'll all get power. I haven't seen any 240v generators under about 4k watts.

I actually did that one year when we lost power, but the location of the generator and the effort to run other stuff was a bit of a mess

We have had a loadside transfer switch like the one in the link Raeford posted for the past 22 years and it has worked well. The circuit switches are 3 position: 1)incoming utility power on 2) off , and 3) 30 amp exterior generator plug routing power when the gen set is plugged in and running..

We've used a 6kw open cage portable generator successfully for up to a week at a time to power 220v well pump, sump pump, hot water baseboard heat, refrigerator, freezer and interior lighting circuits.

With the installation of a new hot water boiler combination unit with digital sensors and controls we've switched to a Honda EU7000is portable generator. Expensive, but plug and play with our existing exterior 30 amp plug and interior loadside transfer switch. This generator model is used by the boiler manufacturer engineer I spoke with who lives out in the country and has the same heating unit. And you can take it with you if you move or need temporary power elsewhere. Inverter generators providing clean power are necessary to avoid damaging digital components in modern HVAC, computers, power tool battery chargers, smart TV, etc.

Can't be any simpler, safer, economical.
3 Easy payments added to electric bill.
20' generator cord included, longer lengths available.

Electric Co-op installs free !

Uhhmmm.... that's basically what I did.
I have a 120/240 generator.
I hard wired a plug on my covered back porch. The generator sits on the outside porch. A 6 foot male/male cord connects generator to outlet.

I have one dedicated circuit that runs:
1) LPG heat unit or one AC unit (both 110ac)
2) TV
3) refrigeration units
4) a couple of lights

LPG hot water and cooking.
Wood stove can furnish heat, hot water and some cooking.
Generator and air compressor can furnish water (air lift pump).

Uhhmmm.... that's basically what I did.
I have a 120/240 generator.
I hard wired a plug on my covered back porch. The generator sits on the outside porch. A 6 foot male/male cord connects generator to outlet*.

I have one dedicated circuit that runs:
1) LPG heat unit or one AC unit (both 110ac)
2) TV
3) refrigeration units
4) a couple of lights

LPG hot water and cooking.
Wood stove can furnish heat, hot water and some cooking.
Generator and air compressor can furnish water (air lift pump).

* - inside connections are extension cords, needed appliances are unplugged from house circuit and connected to surge protectors. Generator also has breakers.

.

Interesting. Its not a physical break so I'd think it not legal. Like if one breaker or the other melts or fails contact could be established as a possible.

But if the code allows then it passes that.

Physical disconnect is what we use since we have been around both ends of power quite a bit over the years and I simply try to be the safest we can for linemen. Even though they should be protecting, yes we never trusted anyone and wore all our gloves, used mats etc...

The double male connectors will work but I don't recommend it, but if you use it, you MUST shut of the Main Switch on your panel.

This vid will get you some info on the 2 basic methods of installing a switch for you generator.

I chose the Interlock as it the easiest, cleanest IMO, & allows ma access to all of my circuits & I can choose which ones to power up of not.

Cost was about $500 for an electrician to install.

MM

Interlock vs Transfer Switch

Mine looks something like this:

That's an interlock & is what I've used for the reasons I stated above.

MM

That's very similar to my set up

The slide locks out one or the other

Can't run both....Lineman have no issues back feeding power

You're just north of us. You know the drill. A 6 to 24 hour outage every 2 to 3 years due to wind / ice / lightning strike. Have a 6kw genset I put on the porch with 12ga extension cords. One circuit for the furnace. One circuit flip-flop between fridge and microwave. One circuit for a few lights and TV. One circuit available PRN. Had to run like this for almost a week during the ice storm 10 years ago. That got pricey feeding the genset 3x per day.

There is a reason the hot side of electrical plugs is female. You are asking for problems. These violate electric standards. You can be held accountable if someone is hurt. Hasbeen

Wow. Lock out tag out. Didn't realize it was that simple.

Still the way code has read all these years I find that hard to believe but it is what it is.

The lineman can still get hit IF the main breaker would fail and burn up inside and arc legs to each other. Thats why I think a double pole double throw physical disconnect is still the safest.

But my opinion doesn't count. LOL

2 males ext cord is called a suicide plug for a reason.

It's apparent few here actually know any linemen.

A transfer switch is required and should be installed.
Hate to think what might occur with your generator if it wasn't isolated and the utility's power were to come back on.

But about that lineman working on the wires.

If you think for a second they would work on their lines as if they were dead, you just don't know a lineman, every wire is a loaded gun to them.

Some jerkoff back-feeding the grid with his gerry-rig is a given to them and just one way the shutdown wires they work on can be hot.

Are you guys saying an open main switch is not isolating utility power from the distribution panel it’s feeding?

If it is not 100% locked out when the generator breaker is in use then it will isolate it right up to the point of forgetting to do it, somebody monkeying around in the panel, against code, etc.


Before installing a double throw disconnect at my house, we loss power after hurricane Rita. I cut the tag, pulled my meter, and wired my generator in the panel. When the power came back on, I disconnected the generator and reinstalled the meter myself.

Came home from work and there was a new tag on the meter pan. I think they appreciated that my generator was completely isolated from the grid.

Other than legal requirements.

Opening the main to prevent back feed from a generator is the equivalent of having a live round in the chamber with the safety on.

Isolation by transfer switch is the equivalent of a empty chamber with a trigger lock in place.

Which ever makes you feel the most warm and fuzzy.

My hunting buddy is a line supervisor, his son is a line man. If half of this stuff suggested was put on line they would cut any feed to your property for ever. Do it right with a transfer switch and don't kill a lineman because your a cheap [bleep]

I powered our house with this generator for a month last summer during the hottest 30 days we had record heat. It worked fine. An electrician connected it to the breaker box directly, since my power line from the main pole drop was down and damaged, and disconnected.

We had to be selective as to what appliances and rooms where we had things turned on, but it saved us from roasting. It didn't damage computers or TVs.

I'll be adding a transfer switch sometime soon.

https://www.harborfreight.com/elect...tor-with-co-secure-technology-57480.html

Not a lineman, but a telephone man for 40 years. Standard procedure before touching anything that might be hot is to check it with a probe. Our newsletters often cited cases where techs ran into unexpected energized stuff. One I recall was an installer that found the whole exterior of a house trailer he was about to drill for a line was hot. Even if you check it before you touch it, it’s always possible some joker might kill you after you check.

Just one of many reasons I stayed an inside phone man.

Tag

I had a transfer switch put in at my last place. Just throw the switch and plug in your genny and use your breaker box in the house to turn off the circuits you don’t want energized. Was cheapest/easiest option and I ran what I needed with an 8k watt gas generator. Been putting it off but will do the same thing at my current house this summer hopefully. Cost me a grand last time, $500 for the switch and $500 for the guy to hook it up. I’m sure it’s going to be more this time around.

Even without the danger to linemen, how long would your generator run if it's backfeeding to the grid? You'd be powering your neighbors' water heaters, a/c's, lights, etc. It looks to me like you'd blow your circuit breaker almost immediately.

found a place selling Champion 4500w inverter dual fuel generators for $700.

Can't find an electrician to call me back on installing a transfer/lockout

You're a smart guy, I'm sure you could figure it out easy enough.

It's really not very hard to wire in a transfer switch and even less complicated to install the interlock in your electrical panel.

They are like doctors. If a doctor tells you to come right in. You might ought to like for another one. Hasbeen

That's a relatively small output generator; you either have a very small house or not much to run on it if that will handle your nominal average needs.

More KW than you think that you really might need is never a bad decision; also make sure that you have the necessary output plugs to make your connections to, at least 30 AMP plug.

MM

Champion does make a 6500 peak/5000 run W inverter generator, but it is gasoline only. I paid about $800.00 for mine 2 years ago. Through a transfer panel, it runs my fridge and freezer, both furnaces, the kitchen outlets and gas stove igniters. Also main bedroom outlets and greatroom TV etc. Obviously I could overload it by being stupid, but so far so good. I don't microwave with the furnaces and the coffeemaker going, for example. It has an idle feature that saves fuel when under light or no load and will run for most of the day on a tank (4 gallons).

I'm sure I could use more power, no doubt, but I'm natural gas for my furnace, stove and hot water heater. I haven't sat down and figured out my load needs but I don't think its going to be crazy.

my wife would probably argue that

Neighbor ran the most necessary things in his home -- NG central furnace, refrigerator, and a few lights, TV, computer intermittently (no power needed for NG gas water heater) -- with a little 2k watt portable 'camping' generator for 11 days back during the 2009 widespread outage caused by a severe ice storm for a couple of gallons of gasoline a day.

A big plus with a smaller generator is noticeably less fuel usage which means fuel lasts longer, which can be critical in widespread power outages since still working retail locations with operating gasoline/LP pumps can be impossible to find for at least several days. Even fuel retailers with backup generators to operate pumps and basics still may not be able to process electronic credit/debit payment due to internet outage.

Here you go ... for a home generator set up that meets code, is safe for utility lines when installed correctly, and lets you control which circuits you need on or not to suit your generator power get yourself one of these. They are easy to install- just punch a small hole in the wall below your panel, use the correct connector and punch out the appropriate sized knock out in the panel to install the flex with wire already installed, and mount the unit on the wall. One wire to each breaker goes to an existing breaker in your panel of the same amperage rating, and the other wire on the breaker goes to the wire you just took off that breaker. Tie the neutrals and grounds to the existing buss bars and done. Then, just get a cord from your generator to the transfer switch and plug it in when running. A good electrician should be able to hook on of these up in a couple hours, a homeowner might take twice that long.... and you don't require a separate transfer switch...

https://apelectric.com/generac-home...h-aluminum-plug-in-box-conduit-30a-plug/

Bob

The electrician just left

Since I won't need a 240V (and at this point wont have it on my generator) he said I wont need a transfer switch, what he has suggested is a 6 circuit breaker box with a master cut off, I don't know if that is the definition of a lockout or what, but he said I will pick out the circuits I want from my panel, he'll tie that into the new panel and then provide an external plug for me to connect my generator. He said it was a kit that included the cord. He told me it runs about $400.

So that sounds about right to me for what I want.

Sheister - I like what you linked but if my guy can set me up for $400, I'm gonna go with that.

I think I'm in pretty good shape unless his labor quote is just stupid high.

That's pretty close to what I have[except that I do have one 240/220 for well pump]

That's a typical transfer switch.

You will be limited to use only the 6 circuits that you put into that transfer box when running the generator, nothing more.

That's why I prefer the interlock.................you have access to all your circuits & can pick & choose which one you want active at any time, up to the KW output of your generator.

MM

I went and looked at what I have and 6 circuits should do me fine. Of course I'd like the flexibility to pick and choose but it would mostly be lighting and outlets in spare bedrooms, and all the 240v stuff like a dryer, range (which I don't use anymore), A/C

so I think I'll be fine. I can have the furnace, kitchen, garage covered and if I need to I can run an extension cord to my sump pump.

It's all about two things- what do you need to survive a power outage- some need much more than others- and how much do you want to spend...

I've done residential generator installs that ran $400 and I've done some that ran $15K... and both served the customers for what they wanted. Smart to get an electrician involved at this stage of the game. I've had to go into homes and fix some real cobbled up messes that homeowners or their neighbors or cousins installed and screwed up everything and it can be a real rodeo. Trying to explain to a customer why a double ended cord going to the dryer outlet or why something their "expert" installed incorrectly and unsafely won't work gets really old really fast. If you trust your electrician let him do his thing unless you think you need more than he recommends. In most cases, electricians will recommend more than you think you need because they have been doing this a while and have probably had to upgrade some of their customer requested installations .... Keep in mind also that the cord from the generator to the transfer receptacle - depending on where you place your generator- will probably run at least $100 and possibly a lot more...

I didn't see it, but try to keep in mind you will need a circuit or two of lights to get around in the house in case of a long term outage. This is the one thing most people forget and I can tell you from experience it will drive you crazy having to navigate your home for more than a day or two with flashlights....

Here's to hoping you get your installation and never have to use it....

Bob

just an update

6 circuit reliance transfer switch installed by electrician - $849. Guy is coming out Wednesday to do it. I picked out 6 circuits and have the furnace, kitchen, sump pump, computer room and master bedroom/bath, garage door and washer all covered.

Still sticking with the 4500w duel fuel generator, bought it already.

Called up the local propane king - they wanted to sell me a 120# tank for $1500, I declined. I'm picking up a 100# tank for $280 filled from Tractor Supply this week.

I figure at any time I'll have roughly 50 gallons of propane and 25 gallons of treated gasoline. I need a generator longer than that where I live and I'll be finding a new place to temporarily live or its Mad Max time in America

When I built my house, I had those guys put in a switch panel with about 10 circuits and a 220 pigtail hanging out of it. You have to switch off the utility supply before you can switch on the generator supply and vise versa. The two switches have a linkage that prevents both switches from being on at the same time. The panel is in my shop that has a garage door and a 25' 220 extension cord that'll reach from the box outside to the generator. I've got a 6500w Honda. Instead of gas, I've got an oil burning furnace and hot water heater. I run extension cords around each floor from hot outlets and I have TV and internet. It works well. It seems like when I lose electricity, it's usually out for two or three days.

Here's what's on those circuits.
well pump
furnace emergency heat first floor
hot water heater
basement refrigerator and freezer
kitchen refrigerator
the shop and adjacent rooms with lights and an outlet
an outlet on 1st floor in family room
an outlet in 2nd floor hallway.

Sounds like you're all set...............obvious comment, but just make sure you have your cord from the gen to the plug on the house & that you test it before the electrician leaves.

MM

I've wondered if it's worth it do solar with batteries for that scenario but I guess the odds are low.

I'd actually consider solar but I have so much shade I can't even grow tomato's on my property, even if I put solar on the roof I wouldn't have enough hours of daily sunlight