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I’ve got a 30yr old 20” Stihl 028 Super that I’ve enjoyed immensely but she’s getting tired. Looking for a one time purchase of a new saw to take me 30 more years. Price is no object.

We typically cut hardwoods here with diameters to 24” but many under 18” Lots of Ash, Oak & Maple.

We don’t get into the softwood game at all so a bar longer than 24” isn’t attractive.

I could love an 18” bar with a very high power to weight ratio - at least 3.0ci & am looking into the 3.5ci saws with a shorter bar.

I’m not into marginal quality so, for me, the Home Depot stuff is out.

Thanks & Fire away!
Stihl is hard to top
Stihl MS261. Done.
Seems like an easy choice- go to your Stihl dealer and pick your new saw. I have a Stihl MS310 with the 20" bar that I use around my place. It never disappoints.

Some fellas like Husqvarna's but I prefer the torque of the Stihl.
I've been window shopping myself. Sorta settled on a Stihl 462 with a 25 inch bar. Longer the bar, less I need to bend over for trimming branches etc when the tree's down.
Toss up: Stihl or Husky

A Stihl MS 271 FARM BOSS or larger. The Stihl Pro saws are a pleasure to use with a full chain.
Another vote for Stihl, but stay away from the C-M series saws as they have a reliability problem.
I’ll second the ms261. Love mine with 18”bar
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I have use only Stihl chainsaws for over 20 years. This year I bought a new Stihl MS 261 with an 18” bar to cut firewood and trees around the house. Really like the weight and power it has compared to my old farm boss and 024 saws I have.

Specifications
POWER SOURCE Gas
POWERHEAD WEIGHT 10.8 lbs.
GUIDE BAR LENGTH (Recommended) 18 in.
OILOMATIC® CHAIN .325" RM3
CHAIN OIL CAPACITY 9.13 oz.
ENGINE POWER 4.0 bhp
FUEL CAPACITY 16.9 oz.
DISPLACEMENT 50.2 cc
Originally Posted by Teal
I've been window shopping myself. Sorta settled on a Stihl 462 with a 25 inch bar. Longer the bar, less I need to bend over for trimming branches etc when the tree's down.


I have a 24" and a 20" Husky...

I like the 20" much better for just general cutting. But when I have to tackle the big stuff, that 24" with a full chisel, skip tooth chain cuts like a beast.
Originally Posted by STRSWilson
Another vote for Stihl, but stay away from the C-M series saws as they have a reliability problem.

For a Stihl pro level saw - leaves you with:

261 - 50cc 4hp
362 - 59cc 4.6hp
500I - 72 cc 6.7hp and electronic fuel injected, if the m-tronic scares someone, EFI likely does too
880 Magnum - 122cc 8.6hp

Of those - I'd guess 362 meets his criteria the best.
Stihl MS261 or MS261 C-M
Originally Posted by rockinbbar
Originally Posted by Teal
I've been window shopping myself. Sorta settled on a Stihl 462 with a 25 inch bar. Longer the bar, less I need to bend over for trimming branches etc when the tree's down.


I have a 24" and a 20" Husky...

I like the 20" much better for just general cutting. But when I have to tackle the big stuff, that 24" with a full chisel, skip tooth chain cuts like a beast.

I haven't settled on it - was just my thinking on 25 inch bar which is the recommended length Stihl has on the 462

Dad was a Stihl guy, lots of friends are Stihl guys and IIRC Stick - Husky (love him or hate him, he cut a lot of wood). Recently it seems like the Stihl is the better choice than Husky on new saws - dunno how true and doubt you can go wrong betwixt the 2.
Purchased my Stihl MS361 new twelve years ago after 10 years with an 024AV that I bought used.
I heat soleley with wood, cutting 10-15 full cord a year and that saw has been a gem. It's power to weight ratio with a 20" bar makes it the ideal saw for my (and likely yours) use. It does everything from large trunks to limbing. Yesterday I cut a 34" walnut with ease. It has started easily every time and never failed me.
I'm a big DIY guy, but my saws go to the dealer for a tune up every couple years. It gets Stihl 2 stroke oil, non-ethanol gas, Stihl bars, chains (green) and sprockets, bar oil comes from TSC. The spark plug gets replaced with OEM every year. Bought a case for it when new and when not in use it's in it.
When I got it, it was a major purchase with a lot of thought put into it. Still grin every time I start it and I'd get a 362 in a heartbeat if need be.


The old 024 gets to come out and play once in a while, still running and cutting like a champ.
What does your local dealer sell? I am not a fan on Husky or Stihl and would go with an Echo. They make some really nice "pro" saws that your average consumer overlooks. Your other option is to go yellow.....Sp-60/70/80/81 or PM 800/805
Cut w a 362 Shtil for years, wanted something bigger. Went w the 462 and a 20” bar. Look out this saw is an animal. Been cutting with it now for 2 years, very happy.
I'm in your neck of the woods. Husky or Stihl pro level is the way to go. I use a husky xp372 and xp550. If I were buying today, maybe Stihl?
Stihl 362. Pro level saw that will last forever. I just bought the 500 running a 32” bar. Saw number 8 for me. Impressed so far with the fuel injection but may be a tad big for most use.
Those using Stihl - what has your street price been? Just curious as to the difference between what the shop charges and MSRP on Stihl's site. If a guy should expect to pay full MSRP or not.
Originally Posted by sackett
What does your local dealer sell? I am not a fan on Husky or Stihl and would go with an Echo. They make some really nice "pro" saws that your average consumer overlooks.

I bought an Echo brush cutter a couple of years ago and I like it. They make good equipment. Its a little easier to start than most of my Stihl stuff but its newer so hard to say its "better". I don't think you could go wrong with either. But if the OP has an Echo servicing dealer close by then yeah I'd check out their saws.
I like my husky 346 xp.... 50cc saw but rips.... it will run a 20" bar which I do because I hate bending over but it's probably best with a 16 or 18. Love that little hot rod.
I had an 044 stihl for years. Good saw. I have a stihl 500I now. What a beast! Husky makes some good saws too
I bought a Stihl at a pawn shop about 15 years ago, MS270 I think. Paid $100. it has been a Beast. rebuilt the engine last year (Stihl shop) the guy at the shop wanted to buy it from me, LOL.

can't beat Stihl
Originally Posted by Teal
Originally Posted by STRSWilson
Another vote for Stihl, but stay away from the C-M series saws as they have a reliability problem.

For a Stihl pro level saw - leaves you with:

261 - 50cc 4hp
362 - 59cc 4.6hp
500I - 72 cc 6.7hp and electronic fuel injected, if the m-tronic scares someone, EFI likely does too
880 Magnum - 122cc 8.6hp

Of those - I'd guess 362 meets his criteria the best.
The 261 and 362 are kinda turds. The New Ms400C which is a souped up 362 is a great saw.
There is nothing wrong with Mtronic on the latest saws. In fact it's a good thing for most guys who can't tune a carb to save their lives.
Originally Posted by hardway
I like my husky 346 xp.... 50cc saw but rips.... it will run a 20" bar which I do because I hate bending over but it's probably best with a 16 or 18. Love that little hot rod.
346 Is the best 50cc chainsaw ever made IMO.
I bought a ms-390 about 15 years ago. it came with I think a 24 inch bar. Besides having starting issues its been a pretty good saw. i then put a 20 inch bar on it and it made all the difference. If i can get it started it is a cutting fool.
Youngest picked up a Husqvarna w/16" bar.
I ain't cutting no heavy timber, it'll take down anything I care to tie into.
I can take down trees up to 36/40 inches. That's more than I want to mess with.
Oldest bought a Homelite gas weed eater a couple of years back
It's been a good one.

Just never run that ethanol crap!

I use 100% gas and mix my own or the pre-mix (50:1) in the can.
Buy once, cry once! Stihl 500i is the best power to weight ratio saw Ive ever had on my hands and that's saying something!
Originally Posted by fishingnut71
I bought a ms-390 about 15 years ago. it came with I think a 24 inch bar. Besides having starting issues its been a pretty good saw. i then put a 20 inch bar on it and it made all the difference. If i can get it started it is a cutting fool.

Same thing here on getting it started. I have a really low mileage 30 year old Husqvarne xp 266 and for that reason I have considered getting a new Stihl. Are the new saws any easier to start?
I’m an arborist. All we run are Stihl. If I was looking for a good homeowner saw that could cut down a decent sized tree and do great for firewood I’d go with the MS250.

Make sure to use fuel stabilizers or even better, get pre-mixed fuel from a company like VP.
Stihl
We had a Husky rep drop some saws off a few years ago. They [bleep] the bed pretty quick. Our stihls go to the shop too, but usually from honest wear and tear of from rolling around in trucks or the occasional fall from a tree. If you buy a Stihl and take care of it, it should last a homeowner a very long time.
Originally Posted by forsyth793
Originally Posted by fishingnut71
I bought a ms-390 about 15 years ago. it came with I think a 24 inch bar. Besides having starting issues its been a pretty good saw. i then put a 20 inch bar on it and it made all the difference. If i can get it started it is a cutting fool.

Same thing here on getting it started. I have a really low mileage 30 year old Husqvarne xp 266 and for that reason I have considered getting a new Stihl. Are the new saws any easier to start?
500i will start from cold engine in 3 cranks, whether its Zero or 100 degrees.
Originally Posted by Teal
Originally Posted by rockinbbar
Originally Posted by Teal
I've been window shopping myself. Sorta settled on a Stihl 462 with a 25 inch bar. Longer the bar, less I need to bend over for trimming branches etc when the tree's down.


I have a 24" and a 20" Husky...

I like the 20" much better for just general cutting. But when I have to tackle the big stuff, that 24" with a full chisel, skip tooth chain cuts like a beast.

I haven't settled on it - was just my thinking on 25 inch bar which is the recommended length Stihl has on the 462

Dad was a Stihl guy, lots of friends are Stihl guys and IIRC Stick - Husky (love him or hate him, he cut a lot of wood). Recently it seems like the Stihl is the better choice than Husky on new saws - dunno how true and doubt you can go wrong betwixt the 2.


I've had and run both Stihl and Husqvarna over the years.

Can't really say I can tell a difference in how they cut, but it's my experience the Husky starts easier, both from the first start to restarting after chain repair, refueling etc. after it's hot.

Won't cut much if it's not running... wink
I’m still using Stihl…my interpretation of “pro level” means being able to find parts if something breaks.
I'v got a good Sachs Dolmar-- fast and good. But in talking to some of the local loggers around here , they use Husky's----- Talk to the local loggers in your area.
Originally Posted by fishingnut71
I bought a ms-390 about 15 years ago. it came with I think a 24 inch bar. Besides having starting issues its been a pretty good saw. i then put a 20 inch bar on it and it made all the difference. If i can get it started it is a cutting fool.

My dad's is probably about 8 years old or so now. Hard starter as well. I've heard tho - the more recent M-Tronic Stihls start much easier.
Spent 20 years in logging camp in AK, only two saw’s you’ll ever see are Husky and Stihl
Stihl 400
Weight of a 362 but with extra CCs
Originally Posted by 3584ELK
Seems like an easy choice- go to your Stihl dealer and pick your new saw. I have a Stihl MS310 with the 20" bar that I use around my place. It never disappoints.

Some fellas like Husqvarna's but I prefer the torque of the Stihl.
I have one of the MS310's. Very under rated in my opinion. Always cranks and has more than enough power for me.
Was just quoted - $1426.93 OTD for a 462 R CM, 25 inch bar and case/scabbard. For another 19 bucks in Stihl oil, they'll double the warranty.
I always tell people to shop saws based on your local dealers. Whoever is the best at service is who you want to buy from. Don't buy big box saws. I have Stihl, Husky, and Jonsered. All were bought when that dealer was the best to deal with. Not I'm lucky that my neighbor is a small engine wizard.
Still sets the price, doesn't't matter if you look online or go to the dealer...all the same.
Many years ago I ran a Stihl O28 super it was a fine saw..nowadays it’s an O26 or MS 361. You can’t go wrong with any of the Stihl Pro models.
Originally Posted by Teal
Was just quoted - $1426.93 OTD for a 462 R CM, 25 inch bar and case/scabbard. For another 19 bucks in Stihl oil, they'll double the warranty.
Seems very high. I bought a 400C with a 25"light bar for $800 OTD.
All chainsaws start very easy...if you can tune a carb and don't mistreat them with ethanol fuel or stale gas.
Originally Posted by BWalker
Originally Posted by hardway
I like my husky 346 xp.... 50cc saw but rips.... it will run a 20" bar which I do because I hate bending over but it's probably best with a 16 or 18. Love that little hot rod.
346 Is the best 50cc chainsaw ever made IMO.

I agree with the above. I've used a XP 346 extensively for 15 years and it has worked well. I've always favored high power to weight saws. It's why I have two Stihl 044s for larger work.
Originally Posted by BWalker
Originally Posted by Teal
Was just quoted - $1426.93 OTD for a 462 R CM, 25 inch bar and case/scabbard. For another 19 bucks in Stihl oil, they'll double the warranty.
Seems very high. I bought a 400C with a 25"light bar for $800 OTD.


That is weird - considering they're about the same saw - power wise, except the 400 has a Mg piston instead of Al. Wondering if that case is uber expensive.
Stihl, starts every time, cuts like a beast.

Why would anyone need something different. Not knocking Husqvarna at all, they're fine saws.
Originally Posted by Teal
Originally Posted by BWalker
Originally Posted by Teal
Was just quoted - $1426.93 OTD for a 462 R CM, 25 inch bar and case/scabbard. For another 19 bucks in Stihl oil, they'll double the warranty.
Seems very high. I bought a 400C with a 25"light bar for $800 OTD.


That is weird - considering they're about the same saw - power wise, except the 400 has a Mg piston instead of Al. Wondering if that case is uber expensive.
The cases are maybe $60. I believe the case will only work with a 20" bar max as well.
Quote
All chainsaws start very easy

BS!

I take 4 saws to the woods and each has its own personality. A couple ancient ProMac's cough on the second choked pull and run on the third open tug. One Stihl runs on its second pull partial choke. The 460 Stihl will flood if I do one pull in full choke followed with 5 minutes to jerk the plug and air it out. Then it starts on the next pull.

Ever watch Life Below Zero on TV. Everyone up there uses a Stihl, and they always fire on the first tug. Even at -20 degrees. I think they could pull their saws out of a pond and they'd fire right up.
Stihl or Husky for me
Originally Posted by Teal
Was just quoted - $1426.93 OTD for a 462 R CM, 25 inch bar and case/scabbard. For another 19 bucks in Stihl oil, they'll double the warranty.
I gave 1400 OTD about 7 months ago for a 500i. Dealer ate the tax.
I grabbed a 362cm and the thing is just a turd. Shoud have went bigger
I use on a regular basis husky 350 or a 55 rancher for big tasks a 359 watch out for plastic oil tanks and exhaust cause they’ll melt
Pro production timber fallers in Southern Ore, Nor Cal are running Stihl and Husqy ....don't let anyone tell you one is better than the other....when a pro cutter decides what saw to buy each season, it ALL comes down to the dealer, parts inventory, diagnostic skills, fixt right the first time-every time. Big box farm stores pay their shop guys just a little above cowboy boot salesman...avoid them like the plague.
Originally Posted by 1minute
Quote
All chainsaws start very easy

BS!

I take 4 saws to the woods and each has its own personality. A couple ancient ProMac's cough on the second choked pull and run on the third open tug. One Stihl runs on its second pull partial choke. The 460 Stihl will flood if I do one pull in full choke followed with 5 minutes to jerk the plug and air it out. Then it starts on the next pull.

Ever watch Life Below Zero on TV. Everyone up there uses a Stihl, and they always fire on the first tug. Even at -20 degrees. I think they could pull their saws out of a pond and they'd fire right up.
I've never had an issue starting a stihl or a Husky in 20 below weather and I've done it plenty.
I'll say it again. If a saw doesn't start easily the carb isn't set right.
Originally Posted by flintlocke
Pro production timber fallers in Southern Ore, Nor Cal are running Stihl and Husqy ....don't let anyone tell you one is better than the other....when a pro cutter decides what saw to buy each season, it ALL comes down to the dealer, parts inventory, diagnostic skills, fixt right the first time-every time. Big box farm stores pay their shop guys just a little above cowboy boot salesman...avoid them like the plague.
When I was logging I ran both Husky and Stihl, but mostly Husky. At the time the Husky 372 was better than the Stihl 044 in every way so I went mostly with Husky.
Today I think Stihl is slightly ahead of Husky. After all the "borrowed " many traditional husky features like spring anti vibe, air injection and carbs mounted to the engine directly instead of in the rear handle.
I’ve got a 25” bar on a stihl MS362 I bought a couple years ago to back up the old 20” MS290

Love em both, but that new saw is badass. With a 20” bar it’d scream I bet

Edit to add paid skittle over $800 but that was 2 years back I think. I’ve a dealer for both Husky and Stihl local. I also got the full wrap handle. I’m happy, but I’m not a logger running it 18 hours a day 365 days a year either.
Originally Posted by mud_bogger
I grabbed a 362cm and the thing is just a turd. Shoud have went bigger
Yes, big time turd. The 400 which is based on the 362 cuts circles around it.
Stihl 026 (bought used), 028 (FIL’s bought used), 029 Farm Boss (bought new). These three have cut a lot of wood the last 20-30 years. Normal maintenance and adjustments all that’s been needed. If I ever need to buy a new saw it will be a Stihl.
cant imagine a 261 not doing what you want...the 362 is just more of a good thing but heavier
me i have a 362 but love my 241 that is no longer made
I usually put on my Jonsered suspenders before entering a conversation about chainsaws

Caught me with my pants down.
8 pages....minimum...
You are probably right, when I heard the 372XP was going to be superseded, I rushed out and bought 3 of them. By 1 o'clock in the afternoon, down here in summer, (we are cutting in a burn frequently) ambient air into the saw is running near a hundred degrees. But...we ran 044's as landing saws, which is kinda like a destruction derby, and they just survived too. Ram intakes with double foam air filters, the 044's just wouldn't die, but the stock 372's would pull longer bars and full skip chains. Down here, we are hearing complaints from guys with the new Stihl computer fuel injection having auto tune problems with elevation changes. We shall see.
Originally Posted by slumlord

When I said Pro - you knew exactly what I meant! 😂
I bought a Husqvarna 550xp a few years ago and it does everything I need with plenty of power and doesn't tire ya out using.
https://www.googleadservices.com/pa...KEwiwsYuu6PH4AhX0l4kEHe9xCJYQ0Qx6BAgCEAE
I've got a Stihl MS462C-M that's about a year and a half old, it's a cutting beast. I like the M-tronic carb and it's very easy starting. I can tune a carb but would rather not mess with it. The key to any two stroke equipment is to feed it high quality non-ethanol fuel which I do. I get 93 octane non-ethanol from a local fuel distributor. I put a Tsumura lightweight 20" bar with full chisel chain on it. I've got a 28" bar with a skiptooth chain that stays in the shed unless I need to cut something really big. The 462 will certainly handle a 25" but the 20" is a lot handier and will do 99% of what needs done on a daily basis. The 28" bar is for the other 1%.

The next logical step smaller for me would be the 400 C-M, the next step up the 500i which is great but bigger than I want. I haven't heard anything bad about the M-tronic carbs or the 500i's fuel injection system, I love mine and wouldn't want to go back to a regular carb setup. Some folks are scared of technology but I'm not one of them. I pretty much have a hatred of standard carburetors and anything that works better I'm all in on.
Originally Posted by BWalker
Originally Posted by hardway
I like my husky 346 xp.... 50cc saw but rips.... it will run a 20" bar which I do because I hate bending over but it's probably best with a 16 or 18. Love that little hot rod.
346 Is the best 50cc chainsaw ever made IMO.

What sorta rpm does it run?
Originally Posted by Huntaholic
Originally Posted by forsyth793
Originally Posted by fishingnut71
I bought a ms-390 about 15 years ago. it came with I think a 24 inch bar. Besides having starting issues its been a pretty good saw. i then put a 20 inch bar on it and it made all the difference. If i can get it started it is a cutting fool.

Same thing here on getting it started. I have a really low mileage 30 year old Husqvarne xp 266 and for that reason I have considered getting a new Stihl. Are the new saws any easier to start?
500i will start from cold engine in 3 cranks, whether its Zero or 100 degrees.

This is important!
Originally Posted by Crow hunter
I've got a Stihl MS462C-M that's about a year and a half old, it's a cutting beast. I like the M-tronic carb and it's very easy starting. I can tune a carb but would rather not mess with it. The key to any two stroke equipment is to feed it high quality non-ethanol fuel which I do. I get 93 octane non-ethanol from a local fuel distributor. I put a Tsumura lightweight 20" bar with full chisel chain on it. I've got a 28" bar with a skiptooth chain that stays in the shed unless I need to cut something really big. The 462 will certainly handle a 25" but the 20" is a lot handier and will do 99% of what needs done on a daily basis. The 28" bar is for the other 1%.

The next logical step smaller for me would be the 400 C-M, the next step up the 500i which is great but bigger than I want. I haven't heard anything bad about the M-tronic carbs or the 500i's fuel injection system, I love mine and wouldn't want to go back to a regular carb setup. Some folks are scared of technology but I'm not one of them. I pretty much have a hatred of standard carburetors and anything that works better I'm all in on.
I was leary as well until I ran one, then I had to have one! I don't know if they will last 30 years or not and honestly I don't care. I use my saws every day at work and if the 500i will last me a year in the log woods its alreay paid for itself a few times over.
Originally Posted by Chumleyhunts
I always tell people to shop saws based on your local dealers. Whoever is the best at service is who you want to buy from. Don't buy big box saws. I have Stihl, Husky, and Jonsered. All were bought when that dealer was the best to deal with. Not I'm lucky that my neighbor is a small engine wizard.
Originally Posted by BWalker
All chainsaws start very easy...if you can tune a carb and don't mistreat them with ethanol fuel or stale gas.

So true! That’s why my little 028 Super has lasted so long! Appreciating your posts.
Originally Posted by 1minute
Quote
All chainsaws start very easy

BS!

I take 4 saws to the woods and each has its own personality. A couple ancient ProMac's cough on the second choked pull and run on the third open tug. One Stihl runs on its second pull partial choke. The 460 Stihl will flood if I do one pull in full choke followed with 5 minutes to jerk the plug and air it out. Then it starts on the next pull.

Ever watch Life Below Zero on TV. Everyone up there uses a Stihl, and they always fire on the first tug. Even at -20 degrees. I think they could pull their saws out of a pond and they'd fire right up.

Man those saws better run great! If I had finicky saws I’d be in a world of hurt. I can tune but not ‘tune’ so I look for 1 rockstar & run with it.
I’ve had three stihls, been great saws!
Originally Posted by PintsofCraft
Originally Posted by BWalker
Originally Posted by hardway
I like my husky 346 xp.... 50cc saw but rips.... it will run a 20" bar which I do because I hate bending over but it's probably best with a 16 or 18. Love that little hot rod.
346 Is the best 50cc chainsaw ever made IMO.

What sorta rpm does it run?
14,200rpm IIRC.
Originally Posted by forsyth793
Originally Posted by fishingnut71
I bought a ms-390 about 15 years ago. it came with I think a 24 inch bar. Besides having starting issues its been a pretty good saw. i then put a 20 inch bar on it and it made all the difference. If i can get it started it is a cutting fool.

Same thing here on getting it started. I have a really low mileage 30 year old Husqvarne xp 266 and for that reason I have considered getting a new Stihl. Are the new saws any easier to start?


The biggest problem is that xp 266 has more compression than I've got Ass....
Originally Posted by flintlocke
You are probably right, when I heard the 372XP was going to be superseded, I rushed out and bought 3 of them. By 1 o'clock in the afternoon, down here in summer, (we are cutting in a burn frequently) ambient air into the saw is running near a hundred degrees. But...we ran 044's as landing saws, which is kinda like a destruction derby, and they just survived too. Ram intakes with double foam air filters, the 044's just wouldn't die, but the stock 372's would pull longer bars and full skip chains. Down here, we are hearing complaints from guys with the new Stihl computer fuel injection having auto tune problems with elevation changes. We shall see.
The 372 is one of the best falling saws ever made.
The 044/440 was as reliable as an anvil, but the antivibe wasn't as good as a 372 and it was under powered compared to a 372 as well. The 372 was just a generation ahead of the 044/440.
Originally Posted by BWalker
Originally Posted by flintlocke
You are probably right, when I heard the 372XP was going to be superseded, I rushed out and bought 3 of them. By 1 o'clock in the afternoon, down here in summer, (we are cutting in a burn frequently) ambient air into the saw is running near a hundred degrees. But...we ran 044's as landing saws, which is kinda like a destruction derby, and they just survived too. Ram intakes with double foam air filters, the 044's just wouldn't die, but the stock 372's would pull longer bars and full skip chains. Down here, we are hearing complaints from guys with the new Stihl computer fuel injection having auto tune problems with elevation changes. We shall see.
The 372 is one of the best falling saws ever made.
The 044/440 was as reliable as an anvil, but the antivibe wasn't as good as a 372 and it was under powered compared to a 372 as well. The 372 was just a generation ahead of the 044/440.
I should add the old edition 372, not the newer Xtorque models and preferably the earlier non Rev limited coil models.
Many good saws out there, dealer support is important.
OP, I have an 028AV Super WoodBoss that my Dad bought new in 1989. He gave it to me when I bought my first house. It's a fantastic saw.

As far as replacing it, you might look at the Huaqvarna 550XPII or the soon to be discontinued Dolmar (now owned by Makita) EA5000. Makita is ceasing production of Dolmar gasoline power equipment in 2024 IIRC. The Dolmar is a fantastic saw, made in Germany, with a great power to weight ratio. I've had it in a previous iteration (5100S) and my brother has been running one for years. They're all the same basic saw, but they've gone through several model number nomenclatures with Dolmar's acquisition by Makita.

I also have the above mentioned Husky. It's a good saw with autotune and plenty of power. That said, I had the crank bearing fail on a near new saw. This was probably almost certainly my fault as I'd filed the rakers too low and kept pushing through a pile of dead ash. The bucking and jerking took out the bearing. I didn't realize this was what had happened until after Husqvarna replaced the saw under warranty and was discussing the issue with my brother. My brother cuts, splits, and stacks 50+ cords of PA hardwood firewood a year and has become a great resource for everything firewood related. The issue arose as I was using an old Pferd ChainSharp chain file that does the raker and cutter at the same time. Apparently, the original version of this tool (which is what I have) takes too much off the rakers. I hadn't used these Pferd ChainSharp files for a long time, and hadn't remembered why I stopped us them. LOL. They somehow got dug out during the pandemic and all this standing dead ash was the perfect storm.
Another factor is knowing how to sharpen a saw and file the rakes I know there’s plenty of gadgets out there but a lot of people can’t take a round file and do it the old school way I’ve got scars to prove how to do it
Originally Posted by kingston
OP, I have an 028AV Super WoodBoss that my Dad bought new in 1989. He gave it to me when I bought my first house. It's a fantastic saw.

As far as replacing it, you might look at the Huaqvarna 550XPII or the soon to be discontinued Dolmar (now owned by Makita) EA5000. Makita is ceasing production of Dolmar gasoline power equipment in 2024 IIRC. The Dolmar is a fantastic saw, made in Germany, with a great power to weight ratio. I've had it in a previous iteration (5100S) and my brother has been running one for years. They're all the same basic saw, but they've gone through several model number nomenclatures with Dolmar's acquisition by Makita.

I also have the above mentioned Husky. It's a good saw with autotune and plenty of power. That said, I had the crank bearing fail on a near new saw. This was probably almost certainly my fault as I'd filed the rakers too low and kept pushing through a pile of dead ash. The bucking and jerking took out the bearing. I didn't realize this was what had happened until after Husqvarna replaced the saw under warranty and was discussing the issue with my brother. My brother cuts, splits, and stacks 50+ cords of PA hardwood firewood a year and has become a great resource for everything firewood related. The issue arose as I was using an old Pferd ChainSharp chain file that does the raker and cutter at the same time. Apparently, the original version of this tool (which is what I have) takes too much off the rakers. I hadn't used these Pferd ChainSharp files for a long time, and hadn't remembered why I stopped us them. LOL. They somehow got dug out during the pandemic and all this standing dead ash was the perfect storm.
I can't wrap my mind around anyone wanting to buy a Dolmar. Nearly zero dealer support and even more damning Dolmars part availability is terrible and about to get much worse given they are being discontinued. There is a reason Dolmars don't have any marketshare of the pro market.
I actually logged with a 7900 when they first came out. Power to weight was great, but it was fragile and parts availability was terrible.
The 028 was a brick compared to today's saws.

Move up to the 60cc range without a weight penalty, forget the
cost you will enjoy the performance.

Stihl 362, or Husky 562.

Personally prefer Husky but Stihl is equal.

Typically, in pro saws, Huskys run faster, Stihl has more torque.
Husky has a better anti-vibe
Your 28 Super was a ported type saw that Stihl doesn't seen to
produce anymore. More like a pro Husky.


If you have a dealer that handles them the Dolmar/Makita 6100 is
a good choice. Dolmar makes as good a saw as any, with top performance
from their top line saws. Just beware that they are high performance.
Run good oil, and gas.


Anyone that tries to tell you that one maker is significantly better,
is either lying or repeating lies. Over the last 15 years EPA has forced
the saw manufacturers to make changes for emissions. Those hurried, forced changes have caused Stihl and Husky some big headaches.

Where they made saws like the 44 or 70 series for decades, changing to 040 for 440 for Stihl, or. 171/272/372 for Husky. Those were
improvements. The EPA changes were huge, involving how the engine
breathes and exhausts. Problems ensued.

As above, a Husky guy. I'd grab a good deal on a 60cc Dolmar or Stihl in
a heartbeat. The 372 I've run for 17 years gets heavy cutting small
stuff. A lighter saw could replace the old Mac pinch saw, and would
be a nice alternative for some work.
I’m taking notes fellas - keep the thoughts coming
things they don’t tell you about chainsaws - Blade width matters.

The 261 Stihl blade is a good width, but the 362 is a bunch wider bite …


the 362 is used for “trunking” - huge limbs off the trunk, and it can handle cutting up a massive trunk of a tree…

The 261 really can’t cut up a huge trunk, but will take care of limbs on down really well.

I had both.

Now if you want to cut a 4-5 ft. Wide stump at ground level… that’s when they pull the 441 out.
Originally Posted by Dillonbuck
The 028 was a brick compared to today's saws.

Move up to the 60cc range without a weight penalty, forget the
cost you will enjoy the performance.

Stihl 362, or Husky 562.

Personally prefer Husky but Stihl is equal.

Typically, in pro saws, Huskys run faster, Stihl has more torque.
Husky has a better anti-vibe
Your 28 Super was a ported type saw that Stihl doesn't seen to
produce anymore. More like a pro Husky.


If you have a dealer that handles them the Dolmar/Makita 6100 is
a good choice. Dolmar makes as good a saw as any, with top performance
from their top line saws. Just beware that they are high performance.
Run good oil, and gas.


Anyone that tries to tell you that one maker is significantly better,
is either lying or repeating lies. Over the last 15 years EPA has forced
the saw manufacturers to make changes for emissions. Those hurried, forced changes have caused Stihl and Husky some big headaches.

Where they made saws like the 44 or 70 series for decades, changing to 040 for 440 for Stihl, or. 171/272/372 for Husky. Those were
improvements. The EPA changes were huge, involving how the engine
breathes and exhausts. Problems ensued.

As above, a Husky guy. I'd grab a good deal on a 60cc Dolmar or Stihl in
a heartbeat. The 372 I've run for 17 years gets heavy cutting small
stuff. A lighter saw could replace the old Mac pinch saw, and would
be a nice alternative for some work.
Yes, the 028 is a brick and that makes sense given it's a 40 year old design.
A Husky 562 will absolutely smoke a Stihl 362.
I've seen many guys say that Huskys have less torque. The opposite is true. It's just that Huskies traditionally have had better porting so they pull more RPM in the cut. In short they absolutely scream and guys mistake this for a lack of torque.
Stick with a 16-18 inch bar and high rpm and wear some blue jeans or chaps watch your feet I “uninsulated” the toe section of some wolverines a few years ago
Originally Posted by earlybrd
Stick with a 16-18 inch bar and high rpm and wear some blue jeans or chaps watch your feet I “uninsulated” the toe section of some wolverines a few years ago
A chain will go through a pair of jeans or carharts instantly.
Originally Posted by forsyth793
Originally Posted by forsyth793
Originally Posted by fishingnut71
I bought a ms-390 about 15 years ago. it came with I think a 24 inch bar. Besides having starting issues its been a pretty good saw. i then put a 20 inch bar on it and it made all the difference. If i can get it started it is a cutting fool.

Same thing here on getting it started. I have a really low mileage 30 year old Husqvarne xp 266 and for that reason I have considered getting a new Stihl. Are the new saws any easier to start?


The biggest problem is that xp 266 has more compression than I've got Ass....



Dad had to sell his old 2100 for that reason.
If you think the 66cc saw was bad, that 100cc was a beech.

Could drop start it, barely. And not safely.
It was one that I actually put my foot in and ground started.

Wish I had bought it, 21-22# for the powerhead, add bar, and a quart of gas and a quart of bar oil, (one just over, one under) and it was a load.
But man was it fun to lay it on a big log and let it eat.
Originally Posted by Dillonbuck
Originally Posted by forsyth793
Originally Posted by forsyth793
Originally Posted by fishingnut71
I bought a ms-390 about 15 years ago. it came with I think a 24 inch bar. Besides having starting issues its been a pretty good saw. i then put a 20 inch bar on it and it made all the difference. If i can get it started it is a cutting fool.

Same thing here on getting it started. I have a really low mileage 30 year old Husqvarne xp 266 and for that reason I have considered getting a new Stihl. Are the new saws any easier to start?


The biggest problem is that xp 266 has more compression than I've got Ass....



Dad had to sell his old 2100 for that reason.
If you think the 66cc saw was bad, that 100cc was a beech.

Could drop start it, barely. And not safely.
It was one that I actually put my foot in and ground started.

Wish I had bought it, 21-22# for the powerhead, add bar, and a quart of gas and a quart of bar oil, (one just over, one under) and it was a load.
But man was it fun to lay it on a big log and let it eat.
The 2100 was sold when men were men no doubt. And these men often had bad backs and hips from packing one around the bush.
I briefly ran a Husky 288XP which was the generation of saw after the 2100. The weight really wore you out, but that thing had balls.
The 288 was a smaller saw.when I was working in the woods that was our
go to. 3 or 4 of them.

I loved them, Dad bout the 2100 to replace Pro Mac 800 when I was about
14. I was running one of those or a Pro Mac 700 at that age, so when I
went to a paying job and they had a "light" 288? I didn't know it vould be this good!
Originally Posted by BWalker
Originally Posted by mud_bogger
I grabbed a 362cm and the thing is just a turd. Shoud have went bigger
Yes, big time turd. The 400 which is based on the 362 cuts circles around it.

I had high hopes for it, and the price was right. Only real requirements were that it fit on the back of the grader, an that it ran when needed. It might do sorta ok with a 20" bar, But I will take the reach of a 25" and wish for more lol. Need to sell that thing
Originally Posted by slumlord

I was shopping for a firewood cutter a couple years ago. Looked at Husky and Stihl. For some reason did t care for the Husky, can’t remember exactly why. Local dealer for Stihl is anal. X that one. Ended up with a Echo CS490 20” bar. It’s referred to as “professional grade “. Love it. It’ll crank & run no problem. No surprises. Were I getting a forever and was younger I might go for an extra cc or two but that’s be across brands.

I keep it in a Poulan case so nobody’ll steal it.
I run a forestry business and run all Huskys. I’ve got an 044 Stihl that sits in the shop. Carry over from logging days when Husky ran supreme. Never was impressed by Stihl. Heavy. Clunky. Plastic. That said you can’t go wrong with either saw. Find a real dealer you trust that knows saws! Not Lowes, Ace Hardware, or Tractor Supply. I order all my saw supplies from Madsens Logging or Baileys. Use non ethanol high octane fuel and a name brand mix. Learn to use a file properly. Avoid all the gadgets. It takes a little time but worth learning the skill.
Get a 60cc class Pro Level saw from Husky, Stihl or Echo. Which one would depend on the which dealer was the best, been in business the longest and who will be in the business in the future. Note, I said a pro level saw, not a homeowners saw or a farm and ranch saw.
I'm an echo guy. Got 4. 16"- 36". Antique design compared to some others, easy to work on. All start easy, except the 800 can be a bear to start.

I got my dad's Stihl in my garage. Won't start. He's had it 8 years and probably never change the plug yet. Gonna go through it and get it back to him.
Grabbed a echo cs-400 a few years ago. pulled the carb stops off it and tuned it up. Its a cutting lil hunk of junk. Usually gets strapped to the dirtbike after the snow starts to melt off. It has seen nothing but abuse and neglect. An yet it runs better than any saw I have ever owned. total Bullschit
Originally Posted by mud_bogger
Grabbed a echo cs-400 a few years ago. pulled the carb stops off it and tuned it up. Its a cutting lil hunk of junk. Usually gets strapped to the dirtbike after the snow starts to melt off. It has seen nothing but abuse and neglect. An yet it runs better than any saw I have ever owned. total Bullschit

Got it…..I think……maybe.
Originally Posted by Dillonbuck
The 288 was a smaller saw.when I was working in the woods that was our
go to. 3 or 4 of them.

I loved them, Dad bout the 2100 to replace Pro Mac 800 when I was about
14. I was running one of those or a Pro Mac 700 at that age, so when I
went to a paying job and they had a "light" 288? I didn't know it vould be this good!
Yea, the 288XP was a bit smaller than the 2100 and alot lighter, but it's still a tank compared to a 372.
The 288 I ran was also a "Lite" version, which wasn't light at all!
They actually still sell the 288xp overseas. Thought about buying one for nostalgia sake, but don't really have the use for a big saw anymore.
Cheap Remington from the Bezos store

iffin its running...........

its cutting
Originally Posted by PintsofCraft
Originally Posted by slumlord

When I said Pro - you knew exactly what I meant! 😂


I purchased one f these years ago
I musta got a bad one big piece of junk and it turned me off of gs driven chainsaws all together.
I purchased a Husky Corded Electric Chainsaw and burned it up on the first tree I cut down.
Went to Sthil and purchased the MS311 because their rating was high up on the Rancher Rating just below the Pro Grade and I could not afford the Pro Saws at the time.
I got an 18" Bar for it and it is one tree cutting saw I later went back and picked up a 25" Bar for it when I need to cut the big stuff.
I needed a Liming saw so I went back to Sthil and picked up their MS192T. Tree climbers saw Pro Grade
What a Bad Ass Saw 14" Bar ad you can reach out with one hand due to the top handle when you need the extra reach.

For me it will be Sthil from now on
Originally Posted by Fullfan
Cut w a 362 Shtil for years, wanted something bigger. Went w the 462 and a 20” bar. Look out this saw is an animal. Been cutting with it now for 2 years, very happy.

+1

I have a 362 with an 18” bar that is great but I use my 461 20” bar far more. Saw weight is something else to consider. I have a 661 as well but rarely use it.
Had a poulan in AK, POS. Left it there.
Originally Posted by Teal
Was just quoted - $1426.93 OTD for a 462 R CM, 25 inch bar and case/scabbard. For another 19 bucks in Stihl oil, they'll double the warranty.



Holy chit Rambo, WTF are you attacking with that thing?!




Pints, I keep a 550XP in the back seat of my pickup. It must be 6-7 years old now, general farm and light firewood use. Burn maybe 4-5 gallons of fuel through it per year so nothing crazy. That said it has been a great little saw, 20" bar which is all it can handle. I like it so much this past spring I bought another one(550XP II) for backup just in case mine gets stolen or breaks down.


I haven't bothered to even put fuel in the new one yet so no comment on it.

Paid $700 for the latest one, ordered from Baileys.
I must be an outlier with the dreaded ethanol fuel. Ran cheap ethanol gas in my Redmax saws for 30 years without a problem. One or both might sit for two years without being started. Dump the old gas, pour in new and fire right up. Never had to clean a carb or replace a single part until last year at 31 years of age i had to rig up a fuel hose grommet for the 562 since the old one shrunk and leaked.
That being said, I bought a few Echo saws last year and now use Rec90 or Truefuel premixed in them. These saws will surely last past the point of me being able to cut firewood.
my use for a chainsaw....

not fire wood

clear the spring trail to get the Lexus through

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
Originally Posted by SamOlson
Originally Posted by Teal
Was just quoted - $1426.93 OTD for a 462 R CM, 25 inch bar and case/scabbard. For another 19 bucks in Stihl oil, they'll double the warranty.



Holy chit Rambo, WTF are you attacking with that thing?!




Pints, I keep a 550XP in the back seat of my pickup. It must be 6-7 years old now, general farm and light firewood use. Burn maybe 4-5 gallons of fuel through it per year so nothing crazy. That said it has been a great little saw, 20" bar which is all it can handle. I like it so much this past spring I bought another one(550XP II) for backup just in case mine gets stolen or breaks down.


I haven't bothered to even put fuel in the new one yet so no comment on it.

Paid $700 for the latest one, ordered from Baileys.

Thanks Sam! I’m looking hard at both Husky & Stihl - no favorites on my end. I just need a bulletproof no BS saw for my annual 12-20 cord cuts between myself & a few friends. I know how to tune & properly sharpen so those are minimized items but I don’t wantt to buy a dog cuz I don’t know the current market well enough.
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
I own ford trucks, too.
Originally Posted by Dillonbuck
The 028 was a brick compared to today's saws.

Move up to the 60cc range without a weight penalty, forget the
cost you will enjoy the performance.

Stihl 362, or Husky 562.

Personally prefer Husky but Stihl is equal.

Typically, in pro saws, Huskys run faster, Stihl has more torque.
Husky has a better anti-vibe
Your 28 Super was a ported type saw that Stihl doesn't seen to
produce anymore. More like a pro Husky.


If you have a dealer that handles them the Dolmar/Makita 6100 is
a good choice. Dolmar makes as good a saw as any, with top performance
from their top line saws. Just beware that they are high performance.
Run good oil, and gas.


Anyone that tries to tell you that one maker is significantly better,
is either lying or repeating lies. Over the last 15 years EPA has forced
the saw manufacturers to make changes for emissions. Those hurried, forced changes have caused Stihl and Husky some big headaches.

Where they made saws like the 44 or 70 series for decades, changing to 040 for 440 for Stihl, or. 171/272/372 for Husky. Those were
improvements. The EPA changes were huge, involving how the engine
breathes and exhausts. Problems ensued.

As above, a Husky guy. I'd grab a good deal on a 60cc Dolmar or Stihl in
a heartbeat. The 372 I've run for 17 years gets heavy cutting small
stuff. A lighter saw could replace the old Mac pinch saw, and would
be a nice alternative for some work.

Outstanding post! Thanks DBuck!

I’m pulling up web searches as fast as I can chasing the suggestions of all involved. I’ve got my old 028 running like a champ & spinning high R’s but she just recently starting smoking more & using more fuel so thh he at was my warning. I don’t want to burn her up & need to get a fresh saw soon.
Originally Posted by SamOlson
Originally Posted by Teal
Was just quoted - $1426.93 OTD for a 462 R CM, 25 inch bar and case/scabbard. For another 19 bucks in Stihl oil, they'll double the warranty.



Holy chit Rambo, WTF are you attacking with that thing?!

Couple hundred acres of hardwoods for camp heat, pulpwood cleanup and if necessary - wholesale Christmas Tree farm harvest.

Really more about running a big saw at 80% rather than a small one at 100% all the time. Capacity/capability wise.
The 25" bar for bucking up smaller logs on the ground was great for my back. And for the bigger trees that a 20" won't make it through without 2 cuts.

I forewent the electronic crap.
You guys are beasty!
Originally Posted by Teal
Originally Posted by SamOlson
Originally Posted by Teal
Was just quoted - $1426.93 OTD for a 462 R CM, 25 inch bar and case/scabbard. For another 19 bucks in Stihl oil, they'll double the warranty.



Holy chit Rambo, WTF are you attacking with that thing?!

Couple hundred acres of hardwoods for camp heat, pulpwood cleanup and if necessary - wholesale Christmas Tree farm harvest.

Really more about running a big saw at 80% rather than a small one at 100% all the time. Capacity/capability wise.

Awfully big saw and heavy for cutting Christmas trees. A 2.2 cuber makes more sense.......

Are you clear cutting this woods, or just saying you are dropping a few trees in a couple hundred acres?
A friend owns a working tree farm in Western OR. He has spent his life as a logger who's job description (as owner) includes falling, bucking, thinning and all the other fun jobs to be found in big tree country. When I asked what brand / saw to buy he indicated that I will be happy with anything orange ... meaning Stihl and Husky. I bought two - a Husky 365 for a primary firewood saw and a smaller Husky 455 Farmer for trimming & light work. Both have been excellent saws.
Originally Posted by sackett
Originally Posted by Teal
Originally Posted by SamOlson
Originally Posted by Teal
Was just quoted - $1426.93 OTD for a 462 R CM, 25 inch bar and case/scabbard. For another 19 bucks in Stihl oil, they'll double the warranty.



Holy chit Rambo, WTF are you attacking with that thing?!

Couple hundred acres of hardwoods for camp heat, pulpwood cleanup and if necessary - wholesale Christmas Tree farm harvest.

Really more about running a big saw at 80% rather than a small one at 100% all the time. Capacity/capability wise.

Awfully big saw and heavy for cutting Christmas trees. A 2.2 cuber makes more sense.......

Are you clear cutting this woods, or just saying you are dropping a few trees in a couple hundred acres?

8000 trees a fall get cut on the farm...

As to the hardwood - wood and trees off the acreage. Just clear cut 80 acres and cleaning that up. Clear cutting is done via Ponsse.

Would the 462 be large? Yep but rather have it and not need it than the other way round.
Originally Posted by BWalker
Originally Posted by kingston
OP, I have an 028AV Super WoodBoss that my Dad bought new in 1989. He gave it to me when I bought my first house. It's a fantastic saw.

As far as replacing it, you might look at the Huaqvarna 550XPII or the soon to be discontinued Dolmar (now owned by Makita) EA5000. Makita is ceasing production of Dolmar gasoline power equipment in 2024 IIRC. The Dolmar is a fantastic saw, made in Germany, with a great power to weight ratio. I've had it in a previous iteration (5100S) and my brother has been running one for years. They're all the same basic saw, but they've gone through several model number nomenclatures with Dolmar's acquisition by Makita.

I also have the above mentioned Husky. It's a good saw with autotune and plenty of power. That said, I had the crank bearing fail on a near new saw. This was probably almost certainly my fault as I'd filed the rakers too low and kept pushing through a pile of dead ash. The bucking and jerking took out the bearing. I didn't realize this was what had happened until after Husqvarna replaced the saw under warranty and was discussing the issue with my brother. My brother cuts, splits, and stacks 50+ cords of PA hardwood firewood a year and has become a great resource for everything firewood related. The issue arose as I was using an old Pferd ChainSharp chain file that does the raker and cutter at the same time. Apparently, the original version of this tool (which is what I have) takes too much off the rakers. I hadn't used these Pferd ChainSharp files for a long time, and hadn't remembered why I stopped us them. LOL. They somehow got dug out during the pandemic and all this standing dead ash was the perfect storm.
I can't wrap my mind around anyone wanting to buy a Dolmar. Nearly zero dealer support and even more damning Dolmars part availability is terrible and about to get much worse given they are being discontinued. There is a reason Dolmars don't have any marketshare of the pro market.
I actually logged with a 7900 when they first came out. Power to weight was great, but it was fragile and parts availability was terrible.

If there's a singular reason why Dolmar never dominated the professional cutter market, it's not because they couldn't build a quality saw. Their vision for a supply chain/dealer network has been all over the place. How many times has Bailey's dropped Dolmar, to then pick them back up again. It's a shame because they've built some great saws.

The 5100s, 5105, EA5000 (all the same saw) are rugged little saws. This particular model has less plastic on it than a comparable Stihl or Husky and they rev at 14.5k. I agree that the larger Dolmar (PS6400, PS7300, PS7900) had a couple weak points. The biggest of which is the choke lever. I bought a PS7900W new 14 years ago, it's still running strong. I did break the original choke lever almost instantly, but haven't broke one since. I'm not a professional logger, but neither is the OP. The other advantage of the EA5000 is it's got an old school carburetor on it and you're not dependent on a dealer for support. To be fair the newer pro saws are not designed or built to last forty or twenty-five years, even if taken care of.
Pints, I know nothing of your age and body condition...but a lot of us old farts, with chronic back pain, well past our prime run bigger saws than needed, in order to run a 34 or 36 inch bar, with aluminum inserts. We don't bend forward to put the saw in the wood, limbing is done standing straight up, bucking is done standing straight up, brushing and lopping the same only the saw is horzontal. The center of gravity is held in close to the body, if possible the throttle grip structure is socked into the hip/thigh socket. Pain and fatigue are greatly reduced, the extra weight of the bigger saw is negligible. If the disc's have been crushed over the years, you can still do a days work. An Insert bar is worth every penny too.
Originally Posted by PintsofCraft
I’ve got a 30yr old 20” Stihl 028 Super that I’ve enjoyed immensely but she’s getting tired. Looking for a one time purchase of a new saw to take me 30 more years. Price is no object.

We typically cut hardwoods here with diameters to 24” but many under 18” Lots of Ash, Oak & Maple.

We don’t get into the softwood game at all so a bar longer than 24” isn’t attractive.

I could love an 18” bar with a very high power to weight ratio - at least 3.0ci & am looking into the 3.5ci saws with a shorter bar.

I’m not into marginal quality so, for me, the Home Depot stuff is out.

Thanks & Fire away!

IMHO... rebuild it.

Parts on FleaBay and others...

Company called SawAgain will probably rebuild it for you also.

Very limited selection on Pro saws here.
“Flame suit on”

My new house has gas heat, but until recently, I used wood as my primary heat source… at the time, mostly sub 12” spruce. Now, I use wood for the backyard fire. With new construction, my current new house had about 7 cords of birch that I’ve been bucking up over the last couple days.

I used to have a Stihl 025, my favorite daily saw, but it was stolen a few years ago. I have an 044, an 066, and my newest, a 251 “wood boss”. For me, it’s a perfectly sized saw for bucking birch. Light enough to limb and work over your head, but small enough to use all day without arms feeling like jello. I’m bucking up 24” birch with an 18” bar, and have had to re-sharpen twice in the past 3 days- going pretty well IMO. The 044 and 066 are better saws IMO, but too heavy and not required for daily firewood use.
Originally Posted by flintlocke
Pints, I know nothing of your age and body condition...but a lot of us old farts, with chronic back pain, well past our prime run bigger saws than needed, in order to run a 34 or 36 inch bar, with aluminum inserts. We don't bend forward to put the saw in the wood, limbing is done standing straight up, bucking is done standing straight up, brushing and lopping the same only the saw is horzontal. The center of gravity is held in close to the body, if possible the throttle grip structure is socked into the hip/thigh socket. Pain and fatigue are greatly reduced, the extra weight of the bigger saw is negligible. If the disc's have been crushed over the years, you can still do a days work. An Insert bar is worth every penny too.

Great post & things to consider. I’m 50 and in solid shape overall, especially for my age. Fitness & nutrition has always been a component of my life. but the advantages of a long bar aren’t lost on me. The cumulative body moment sure can wipe a guy out.

I’m not set on an 18-20” saw but haven’t really been exposed to the benefits of something larger/longer.

(I know…that’s what she said) but I’m being honest about my experiences.
Originally Posted by PintsofCraft
Originally Posted by flintlocke
Pints, I know nothing of your age and body condition...but a lot of us old farts, with chronic back pain, well past our prime run bigger saws than needed, in order to run a 34 or 36 inch bar, with aluminum inserts. We don't bend forward to put the saw in the wood, limbing is done standing straight up, bucking is done standing straight up, brushing and lopping the same only the saw is horzontal. The center of gravity is held in close to the body, if possible the throttle grip structure is socked into the hip/thigh socket. Pain and fatigue are greatly reduced, the extra weight of the bigger saw is negligible. If the disc's have been crushed over the years, you can still do a days work. An Insert bar is worth every penny too.

Great post & things to consider. I’m 50 and in solid shape overall, especially for my age. Fitness & nutrition has always been a component of my life. but the advantages of a long bar aren’t lost on me. The cumulative body moment sure can wipe a guy out.

I’m not set on an 18-20” saw but haven’t really been exposed to the benefits of something larger/longer.

(I know…that’s what she said) but I’m being honest about my experiences.

Another 5” and a saw that isn’t a heavy pig might surprise you

Yeah, that’s what she said lol
Anyone (other than Kingston) have specific experience with the Makita/Dolmar 5600/6100 saws?

Kingston - your post has opened up quite a window! Thanks for sharing about the Dolmar saws - never heard of them and reviews are solidly positive.
Been running a Stihl 034AV Super for years but the new 500i is very impressive.
Personally, I like a big saw, I am currently using a husqvarna 395, previous saw was a 395, the ones before that were 394 Husqvarna's, 5 of them.
I like a bigger saw even if the wood is only 12-16" in diameter, I like the weight of a bigger saw as it dies the work for you if you let it.

If money is no object and you live and work in colder weather, get a heated handle, your hands will thank you for it.
The only reason I run Husky is because of the parts pile I have here, I run Huskies, but have a 461 magnum (Stihl) that I really like.

On a saws balance.....to me balance means when you hold your saw sideways, as if you are going to fall a tree it should have the bar level, if the bar is longer, it makes the tip go down, making it hard to make a level undercut...which makes for a poor undercut because the top cut and bottom cut of the undercut don't meet, causing a (dutchman).

The perfect balance is a saw that self levels, this is how you make a nice undercut.
Originally Posted by Magnum_Bob
Been running a Stihl 034AV Super for years but the new 500i is very impressive.

I've head that from 2 or 3 pros... hard to find here... I love the old AVs... great carbs

Originally Posted by PintsofCraft
Anyone (other than Kingston) have specific experience with the Makita/Dolmar 5600/6100 saws?

Bought the wife an emergency Makita 36v (2 x 18v)... damn impressive for a lady saw. A friend runs the Makita gas saws... he likes them... he is not a large man... I am so-so on them.

I run Stihl mostly... my logger friend in WV hates Stihl... Husky only... claims they are far more durable. I trust his opinion.
Originally Posted by rockinbbar
Originally Posted by Teal
Originally Posted by rockinbbar
Originally Posted by Teal
I've been window shopping myself. Sorta settled on a Stihl 462 with a 25 inch bar. Longer the bar, less I need to bend over for trimming branches etc when the tree's down.


I have a 24" and a 20" Husky...

I like the 20" much better for just general cutting. But when I have to tackle the big stuff, that 24" with a full chisel, skip tooth chain cuts like a beast.

I haven't settled on it - was just my thinking on 25 inch bar which is the recommended length Stihl has on the 462

Dad was a Stihl guy, lots of friends are Stihl guys and IIRC Stick - Husky (love him or hate him, he cut a lot of wood). Recently it seems like the Stihl is the better choice than Husky on new saws - dunno how true and doubt you can go wrong betwixt the 2.


I've had and run both Stihl and Husqvarna over the years.

Can't really say I can tell a difference in how they cut, but it's my experience the Husky starts easier, both from the first start to restarting after chain repair, refueling etc. after it's hot.

Won't cut much if it's not running... wink

This right here ^^^^^^. My experience as well.
Originally Posted by PintsofCraft
Anyone (other than Kingston) have specific experience with the Makita/Dolmar 5600/6100 saws?

Kingston - your post has opened up quite a window! Thanks for sharing about the Dolmar saws - never heard of them and reviews are solidly positive.

You don't want the 5600/6100, you want the little screamer, the EA5000 which is the current version of the vaunted 5100S.
Originally Posted by kingston
Originally Posted by BWalker
Originally Posted by kingston
OP, I have an 028AV Super WoodBoss that my Dad bought new in 1989. He gave it to me when I bought my first house. It's a fantastic saw.

As far as replacing it, you might look at the Huaqvarna 550XPII or the soon to be discontinued Dolmar (now owned by Makita) EA5000. Makita is ceasing production of Dolmar gasoline power equipment in 2024 IIRC. The Dolmar is a fantastic saw, made in Germany, with a great power to weight ratio. I've had it in a previous iteration (5100S) and my brother has been running one for years. They're all the same basic saw, but they've gone through several model number nomenclatures with Dolmar's acquisition by Makita.

I also have the above mentioned Husky. It's a good saw with autotune and plenty of power. That said, I had the crank bearing fail on a near new saw. This was probably almost certainly my fault as I'd filed the rakers too low and kept pushing through a pile of dead ash. The bucking and jerking took out the bearing. I didn't realize this was what had happened until after Husqvarna replaced the saw under warranty and was discussing the issue with my brother. My brother cuts, splits, and stacks 50+ cords of PA hardwood firewood a year and has become a great resource for everything firewood related. The issue arose as I was using an old Pferd ChainSharp chain file that does the raker and cutter at the same time. Apparently, the original version of this tool (which is what I have) takes too much off the rakers. I hadn't used these Pferd ChainSharp files for a long time, and hadn't remembered why I stopped us them. LOL. They somehow got dug out during the pandemic and all this standing dead ash was the perfect storm.
I can't wrap my mind around anyone wanting to buy a Dolmar. Nearly zero dealer support and even more damning Dolmars part availability is terrible and about to get much worse given they are being discontinued. There is a reason Dolmars don't have any marketshare of the pro market.
I actually logged with a 7900 when they first came out. Power to weight was great, but it was fragile and parts availability was terrible.

If there's a singular reason why Dolmar never dominated the professional cutter market, it's not because they couldn't build a quality saw. Their vision for a supply chain/dealer network has been all over the place. How many times has Bailey's dropped Dolmar, to then pick them back up again. It's a shame because they've built some great saws.

The 5100s, 5105, EA5000 (all the same saw) are rugged little saws. This particular model has less plastic on it than a comparable Stihl or Husky and they rev at 14.5k. I agree that the larger Dolmar (PS6400, PS7300, PS7900) had a couple weak points. The biggest of which is the choke lever. I bought a PS7900W new 14 years ago, it's still running strong. I did break the original choke lever almost instantly, but haven't broke one since. I'm not a professional logger, but neither is the OP. The other advantage of the EA5000 is it's got an old school carburetor on it and you're not dependent on a dealer for support. To be fair the newer pro saws are not designed or built to last forty or twenty-five years, even if taken care of.

Not a pro and not particularly concerned about dealer network (not rocket surgery keeping a saw going). Down to one saw these days and its a 5100 - fugger is a screamer and a wood cutting SOB. I like it.

As to the OP - flip a coin I guess. Stihl and Husky are pretty much the only game in town anymore if you're buying new.
Stihl or Husky large enough to handle a 25" bar.
Originally Posted by fburgtx
8 pages....minimum...

Come on guys! Almost there...
I have 2 Stihls and a 620P Echo. The stihls are really good saws but the Echo has Stihl beat for my limited experience which is not all that limited.
My heavy, hard starting Stihl sits in the barn most of the time.
My Echo Timber Wolf is my go to saw.
Easy starting, lightweight and maneuverable.
I have an 028 18", 360 20" and 461 25"

The 360 is ideal for 95% situations. I can cut all day with the 028 and 360. The 461 with a full tank is heavy. I can and have used it for hours but I prefer to use a lighter saw. I'm a big guy at 250. Hard to imagine a small guy wanting to heft that much saw all day.
Well then you go to Canada an buy Shindaiwa 488...
Do most of my firewood cutting with a Stihl 028 Super. Recently got a Echo 590 and am impressed.
I love chainsaws and tinkering with them
I have
026 pro
028 super
034av super
036 pro
10 mm 044. Rumored to be the best saw Stihl ever made
Have a bunch of husky Dolmar ect
But the reach for saw for most jobs is that 034 super
It’s the same phisical size and the 028 with the motor size and power of the 036 pro
It is a monster for its size and weight they can actually be had for cheap in good shape if you look
If I were you I would send that 028 ot for a port job and rebuild. The new stuff has a ton of China parts and are just not made to the standard of old
My opinion the next generation after your 028 were and are the best saws ever produced
Originally Posted by PintsofCraft
I’ve got a 30yr old 20” Stihl 028 Super that I’ve enjoyed immensely but she’s getting tired. Looking for a one time purchase of a new saw to take me 30 more years. Price is no object.

We typically cut hardwoods here with diameters to 24” but many under 18” Lots of Ash, Oak & Maple.

We don’t get into the softwood game at all so a bar longer than 24” isn’t attractive.

I could love an 18” bar with a very high power to weight ratio - at least 3.0ci & am looking into the 3.5ci saws with a shorter bar.

I’m not into marginal quality so, for me, the Home Depot stuff is out.

Thanks & Fire away!


If price is no object and you're truly looking for a B.A. saw, check out RIPSAW. They tune up some awesome saws. Husky, Stihl, Echo... competition grade stuff. You get what you pay for, time is money and these saws save time and money! https://ripsaw.shop/
Yes for newer saws they are great only now have just the little 421 best starting saw I have ever owned I sent it out for porting right out of the box
Been running it 5 years it get the duty of riding on the 4 wheeler and cutting trees in the pasture so lots of starting stoping.
Sadly they quit making them
Curious y you need a new saw
Does the saw start and run?
Lacks power?
90 percent of the saws I have were sold dirt cheap as wore out most just need a carb cleaning and tune up
The 034 super one of my favorites needed 1/4 turn on the high jet it was just too rich bought it at an auction for 75 bucks
Originally Posted by Salmonella
My heavy, hard starting Stihl sits in the barn most of the time.
My Echo Timber Wolf is my go to saw.
Easy starting, lightweight and maneuverable.
Bought a Timber Wolf this spring. Dropped 1 big hedge and that's all it has ran. Wood eating sumbitch.
Originally Posted by High_Noon
Stihl MS261. Done.

YES! My neighbor has one and after watching him felling his spruces I bought the same without taking his offer to first give it a try with his saw.
We have the 271 Stihl and while not a professional saw it does all the chores we need it to and has been dependable. I would prefer metal housing around the engine though if I were to use a saw for work.
Originally Posted by PintsofCraft
Originally Posted by Dillonbuck
The 028 was a brick compared to today's saws.

Move up to the 60cc range without a weight penalty, forget the
cost you will enjoy the performance.

Stihl 362, or Husky 562.

Personally prefer Husky but Stihl is equal.

Typically, in pro saws, Huskys run faster, Stihl has more torque.
Husky has a better anti-vibe
Your 28 Super was a ported type saw that Stihl doesn't seen to
produce anymore. More like a pro Husky.


If you have a dealer that handles them the Dolmar/Makita 6100 is
a good choice. Dolmar makes as good a saw as any, with top performance
from their top line saws. Just beware that they are high performance.
Run good oil, and gas.


Anyone that tries to tell you that one maker is significantly better,
is either lying or repeating lies. Over the last 15 years EPA has forced
the saw manufacturers to make changes for emissions. Those hurried, forced changes have caused Stihl and Husky some big headaches.

Where they made saws like the 44 or 70 series for decades, changing to 040 for 440 for Stihl, or. 171/272/372 for Husky. Those were
improvements. The EPA changes were huge, involving how the engine
breathes and exhausts. Problems ensued.

As above, a Husky guy. I'd grab a good deal on a 60cc Dolmar or Stihl in
a heartbeat. The 372 I've run for 17 years gets heavy cutting small
stuff. A lighter saw could replace the old Mac pinch saw, and would
be a nice alternative for some work.

Outstanding post! Thanks DBuck!

I’m pulling up web searches as fast as I can chasing the suggestions of all involved. I’ve got my old 028 running like a champ & spinning high R’s but she just recently starting smoking more & using more fuel so thh he at was my warning. I don’t want to burn her up & need to get a fresh saw soon.




Don't know who is your "heavy" saw wrench, you or a good dealer?
That Super was a great saw, things have improved, but it's still good.




It's almost impossible to source pistons in those last I heard, so
If it was mine. I'd personally pull the muffler and look inside the cylinder.
If the piston and cylinder look decent, the rings are probably wore out.
New ones are cheap. It is not a hard job.
Look at a few videos. Different saw throw twists, but what matters is
pretty universal.




673,
you like 'em bigger than I do. (Bet you have bigger wood)
But I agree with you.
Growing up with 70cc+ saws, they are what I know, the light saws
actually intimidate me a bit. Good chain, sharp, they get kicky.
And they kick fast. 24" bar on a heavy saw, the kick is slower, but
harder. Not as likely to bite.
Dillonbuck
This is it exactly^^^^.
The only time I like a lighter, smaller saw is in the winter when the snow piles up, otherwise a big saw can be managed using leverage, depending on what you are doing, but if its imbedded in a tree all day I'm not packing it.
Originally Posted by 673
Dillonbuck
This is it exactly^^^^.
The only time I like a lighter, smaller saw is in the winter when the snow piles up, otherwise a big saw can be managed using leverage, depending on what you are doing, but if its imbedded in a tree all day I'm not packing it.

Found it curious that people would talk about "too much saw" in a world that's convinced you need a Duramax to tow a single SxS on a trailer.
Stihl farm boss is the best saw I have ever owned!
Originally Posted by 10gaugemag
Originally Posted by Salmonella
My heavy, hard starting Stihl sits in the barn most of the time.
My Echo Timber Wolf is my go to saw.
Easy starting, lightweight and maneuverable.
Bought a Timber Wolf this spring. Dropped 1 big hedge and that's all it has ran. Wood eating sumbitch.

Been running a 028 since 97.

Bought a TimberWolf 590 4 years ago when the Stihl carb gave out after too much E gas.
While waiting on the carb to arrive we had a big red oak fall across our drive and I'm stuck with my little 021

At 1/2 the $'s of the comparable Stihl it just made sense as I doubt we'll heat solely with wood for another 35 years.

The 028 has never been a 'hard' starter[always starts on 3rd pull].

Both cut like beasts for what they are.
Still 262. 4 HP and light weight
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
Stihl 441 Magnum been working good for me.
Other than upgrading power, I’m not sure how you improve on an old Husky 55. Mine is then best piece of power equipment that I have ever owned.
028 Sthl here, does it all for me for decades.......

Non ethanol gas + Kg100 + Red Armor oil makes for a long lasting saw, I use a tad more oil on the older saw and the KG 100 burns off any excess off the top of the cylinder head and valves.
Grew up on Echo saws…they were decent. First saw I bought was a $60 Poulan, second saw was a $99 Poulan Wild Thing like Slumlord posted. They were worth what I paid, because I ran and beat the absolute shat out of em! Bought a Husky 455 Rancher about 10 or 11 years ago, and have used it hard since, as firewood is my primary heat source. It still starts easy and runs great. Treated myself to another Husky 3 months ago, a 545 M II that I like even better.

For me, Husqvarna all the way, but wouldn’t turn my nose up to a comparable sized Stihl…if it was a steal of a deal.

Doc_Holidude
I agree. The Husky 55 Rancher is a very good saw. Was always a Stihl guy until a guy up the road was moving and had a garage sale and there was a 55 there for $80. The only thing's that I replace is, gas mix, chain oil, and a new chain when needed. I have a 361 Pro but it's getting hard on the fingers with the high compression even with the compression release.
After owning quite a lot of different saw from MS170 to MS391 and a few in between, I've settled for a older Stihl MS362 (2010-2014) with a 20" bar. This pro saw does all I need for cutting hardwood.


[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]


Although in saying that, my MS260 Pro was a good saw for cutting smaller logs.

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

Gidyea is one of the worlds hardest timbers and my Stihl MS391 cut this lot effortlessly. For cutting average size hardwood logs any current Stihl saw between MS291 & MS362-C is all you need.


[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
I cut wood to heat my parents home for about 15 years with a Stihl 028 Wood Boss. The saw is still running today, and that was in the late 80's through the 90's. I don't remember the number but a tornado came through a neighboring town about 12 years ago and I bought a larger Stihl to help clean up and cut the larger oaks which had fallen. A few years ago I had a tree cutter/trimmer top and cut some trees here around the house. I noticed he had a fleet of Stihl saws. I commented on my experiences with Stihl saws and he said all he buys anymore are the "disposable" Stihl saws. I asked disposable? and he said yes, the $179 saw they run on sale for $159 in the summer time. I bought one of those a few months later. That has been about 4 years ago. I don't use the saw much anymore but it is such a pleasure to use compared to the larger Stihl I have. I'm not as young as I used to be, which is the case for many of us I suspect, but it really shows when I need a saw. For me it would be hard not to buy a Stihl.
Rick
I ended up with quotes from 4 places within an hour of me on that 462 - all exactly the same down to the penny. lol. All had it in stock but said the 400C was impossible to find right now. 2 had a 362 available if I was interested.
Originally Posted by Teal
I ended up with quotes from 4 places within an hour of me on that 462 - all exactly the same down to the penny. lol. All had it in stock but said the 400C was impossible to find right now. 2 had a 362 available if I was interested.

As mentioned prior, all Stihl dealers have to sell at the same price whether on sale or straight up
Originally Posted by Raeford
Originally Posted by Teal
I ended up with quotes from 4 places within an hour of me on that 462 - all exactly the same down to the penny. lol. All had it in stock but said the 400C was impossible to find right now. 2 had a 362 available if I was interested.

As mentioned prior, all Stihl dealers have to sell at the same price whether on sale or straight up

I'm not complaining, just that it was nice to see consistency. I asked for them quoted OTD and glad they all added the correct taxes etc.
Stihl 441 or my hot rodded Husky 266
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
Originally Posted by Teal
Originally Posted by 673
Dillonbuck
This is it exactly^^^^.
The only time I like a lighter, smaller saw is in the winter when the snow piles up, otherwise a big saw can be managed using leverage, depending on what you are doing, but if its imbedded in a tree all day I'm not packing it.

Found it curious that people would talk about "too much saw" in a world that's convinced you need a Duramax to tow a single SxS on a trailer.


I like bigger saws, use a 372 for firewood,as stated before I wouldn't mind a 288 or 2100 for occasional use. Generally speaking over equipped is my
happy place. It's much nicer easing through a job with power to spare than screwing around with toy tools.


Feel the same about pickups. (When fuel was $1/gal)


Have you ever ran a saw with a 20# powerhead?
12-14# + bar gets heavy, especially if you are a typical firewood cutter.

I mentioned Dad's 2100. It held over a quart of oil and just under for gas.
That's 3-4 pound of liquid in the darn thing! Was running it at 14, and not
a big kid.

Yeah, for everyday use, I can have "too much saw".
My once-rebuilt 044 started having a hot spark/running issue, so went looking for another. The Echo CS-590 was cited as a great deal by the opeforum, so I found an out-of-box new one for $350. I pulled the cylinder and reinstalled it without the base gasket before even running it. I also bought a fancier bar...the tsumura lightweight 20" on amazon. And some aftermarket dogs. I also pulled the limiters off of the carb adjustment screws and plugged the little extra orifice in the carb jet which prevents folks from running it too lean. Readjusted the carb, got it running right (four stroking out of the cut, switches to strong 2-stroking in the cut), and it's a nice strong unit for not a lot of work.

They can be a bugger to get tuned right without disabling all of the idiot-proofness of the carb.

I'd be hard pressed to not rebuild an 028, regardless of what you end up doing. Even a basket case can be resurrected unless the cylinder is scored. Get some good T27 torx wrenches and start pulling things apart.
Fellas this is a great thread! Looking at the Husky 550xp, Makita EA5000 but haven’t settled yet on what Stihl to thro into the mix. I really think all I need is a 50cc saw but would take a 60cc with a short bar if it revvs above 10k.

I’m my own wrench and am familiar with the whole rebuild process - I’ll likely rebuild the 028 but keep it as a backup now. It’s got so much sentimental value to me that I’ll never trip it & always want it to be gtg.

Lots of dealers here in VT with all of the likely suspects and similar pricing. My rationale for the Makita is that it’s got an old school carb & mostly magnesium bodied.

Again, thanks for all the suggestions - I’m learning a lot.
Why not get both an 18 and 24 bar? When you change the chain the bar comes off anyway, so why not have both?
Originally Posted by High_Noon
Stihl MS261. Done.

This. Period.
Jeezum. Just realized who the original poster was.

Fer Crissake quit messing around and get the 261. Its rugged, stout and will do the job.

Oher saws have their proponents, but day in day out stick with a proven winna!

Do as I do ....and say!
Originally Posted by 673
Personally, I like a big saw, I am currently using a husqvarna 395, previous saw was a 395, the ones before that were 394 Husqvarna's, 5 of them.
I like a bigger saw even if the wood is only 12-16" in diameter, I like the weight of a bigger saw as it dies the work for you if you let it.

If money is no object and you live and work in colder weather, get a heated handle, your hands will thank you for it.
The only reason I run Husky is because of the parts pile I have here, I run Huskies, but have a 461 magnum (Stihl) that I really like.

On a saws balance.....to me balance means when you hold your saw sideways, as if you are going to fall a tree it should have the bar level, if the bar is longer, it makes the tip go down, making it hard to make a level undercut...which makes for a poor undercut because the top cut and bottom cut of the undercut don't meet, causing a (dutchman).

The perfect balance is a saw that self levels, this is how you make a nice undercut.
On my cs800 echo, that 36" bar makes it nose heavy. Eventually I'm gonna get a 32". Don't use it much anymore since my main job for it is done except for the few times just to use it. Be nice if it was balanced ...
If you really want a saw you can work get a Dolmar if there's a distributor in your area.

If you're to far from a distributor buy Stihl. You can get parts if you ever need them, and it's a really good saw.
Originally Posted by Raeford
Originally Posted by Teal
I ended up with quotes from 4 places within an hour of me on that 462 - all exactly the same down to the penny. lol. All had it in stock but said the 400C was impossible to find right now. 2 had a 362 available if I was interested.

As mentioned prior, all Stihl dealers have to sell at the same price whether on sale or straight up

No, they may have a minimum, but many mark up quite a bit from that. Also, even the lowest price will come down for a cash price or certain sales.

When I bought my 461 a few years ago I got it $150 cheaper the next town over after quoted by my local dealer.
Originally Posted by BigNate
If you really want a saw you can work get a Dolmar if there's a distributor in your area.

If you're to far from a distributor buy Stihl. You can get parts if you ever need them, and it's a really good saw.

Except Dolmar no longer makes saws for us market anyway
Sad as they were great
Anything new will be mostly China parts including Stihl
Stihl bought Zama carburetor and and imedatly close up shop and moved it all to China. Somthing I just can’t support
So for me the rest of my life I will continue to run my old saw and keep fixing them. There are still
A ton of good new old stock parts that are not China
Originally Posted by Hastings
I have 2 Stihls and a 620P Echo. The stihls are really good saws but the Echo has Stihl beat for my limited experience which is not all that limited.


+1
Not many hours on my 620P but I'm quite pleased with it.
If you want to avoid China as much as possible, buy Pro-saws in either
Husky or Stihl..
Originally Posted by Dillonbuck
If you want to avoid China as much as possible, buy Pro-saws in either
Husky or Stihl..

Really?

Waiblingen, 31.10.2013
5 Million Products in First Class Quality
STIHL Production Floor Area in Qingdao, China, Almost Doubled
Originally Posted by Blu_Cs
Jeezum. Just realized who the original poster was.

Fer Crissake quit messing around and get the 261. Its rugged, stout and will do the job.

Oher saws have their proponents, but day in day out stick with a proven winna!

Do as I do ....and say!

Haha. We’ll coming from a fellow woodchuck - I’ll dig deeper into the MS261 right off!
Originally Posted by Joel/AK
Originally Posted by Dillonbuck
If you want to avoid China as much as possible, buy Pro-saws in either
Husky or Stihl..

Really?

Waiblingen, 31.10.2013
5 Million Products in First Class Quality
STIHL Production Floor Area in Qingdao, China, Almost Doubled


Notice the Pro-Saw part of my post?
That actually has a meaning.

As of a couple years ago the bigger pro saws were German made.

Same with Husky, but in Sweden.
Pints;
Good evening to you sir, I hope the day was a good one for you and you're well.

Thanks for the interesting responses from what's been quite a civil chainsaw thread all things considered.

In your initial post you mentioned cost not being an issue, so perhaps I'll suggest getting someone who's good at it to rebuild your old faithful saw and pick up a new one as well.

On the new one I'd stick on a bigger bar, say at least 24" so you can see if that's easier on you.

I'm not up on the new series of pro saws, but I'll say that I wouldn't trade my buddy's 2014 made 372 XP X Torque for the '06 vintage 372XPG that I've had since it was about a year old. Both were bought used by the way.

He's also got a Stihl of about the same size - sorry not sure exactly - but it's about a 15 year old saw and while it revs higher than the Husky saws, I'm not sure it cuts quite as fast as either one. It might start better though, I'll give it that.

The new fuel injection saws are getting mixed reviews for sure and I'm not entirely sure they'll last 20 plus years.

Echo saws have a good reputation up here too, but as others have mentioned dealers and part availability would have a big weight in the decision for which brand.

Hopefully that was useful, good luck whichever saw you pick up and all the best.

Dwayne
Originally Posted by BC30cal
Pints;
Good evening to you sir, I hope the day was a good one for you and you're well.

Thanks for the interesting responses from what's been quite a civil chainsaw thread all things considered.



Hopefully that was useful, good luck whichever saw you pick up and all the best.

Dwayne


Go to hell Dwayne!
I have a Husky 359 and a 575XP. I bought them at a dealer back in 2006. The 359 has seen a metric ton of hours and the 575 is just for big stuff. When I bought the 575 the 372's were not available. Rumor had it that they were going to stop production but the hew and cry stopped that idea.I wish they were available, I think they are a bunch better saw.
I am totally impressed with the 359. It hasn't had a single issue.
Sam;
Good evening to you my friend, I hope that the weather's been what you need and you're all well.

laugh laugh laugh

Thanks for the laugh sir, I appreciate both your sense of humor and the delivery.

Well played indeed Sam!

All the best.

Dwayne

PS;
Forgot to say I'm sorry for whatever it is that caused that response Sam.... wink
Dwayne, weather is good, hope you guys are good!
Sam;
Life is good thanks my friend.

As always, I'm doing better than anything I've ever done to deserve and then some.

All the best again.

Dwayne
Originally Posted by Westman
I am totally impressed with the 359. It hasn't had a single issue.

The 359 was one of Husky's best saws, I wish they still made them. I had one that was great for 20 years but it had one issue that finally did it in. I was carrying it in the bucket of my tractor one day and forgot it was in there when I uncurled my bucket. I was bush hogging at the time and ran over the saw. The bush hog won.
Originally Posted by Crow hunter
Originally Posted by Westman
I am totally impressed with the 359. It hasn't had a single issue.

The 359 was one of Husky's best saws, I wish they still made them. I had one that was great for 20 years but it had one issue that finally did it in. I was carrying it in the bucket of my tractor one day and forgot it was in there when I uncurled my bucket. I was bush hogging at the time and ran over the saw. The bush hog won.

Man that’s a heartbreaker! At least it was a quick destruction.
Originally Posted by Crow hunter
Originally Posted by Westman
I am totally impressed with the 359. It hasn't had a single issue.

The 359 was one of Husky's best saws, I wish they still made them. I had one that was great for 20 years but it had one issue that finally did it in. I was carrying it in the bucket of my tractor one day and forgot it was in there when I uncurled my bucket. I was bush hogging at the time and ran over the saw. The bush hog won.

Man- can only wonder what that sounded like...
Not sure if this has been mentioned, but check out Bucking Billy Ray on YouTube. Impressive chain saw knowledge.
Originally Posted by CGPAUL
Not sure if this has been mentioned, but check out Bucking Billy Ray on YouTube. Impressive chain saw knowledge.

Entertaining too
Originally Posted by Teal
Originally Posted by Crow hunter
Originally Posted by Westman
I am totally impressed with the 359. It hasn't had a single issue.

The 359 was one of Husky's best saws, I wish they still made them. I had one that was great for 20 years but it had one issue that finally did it in. I was carrying it in the bucket of my tractor one day and forgot it was in there when I uncurled my bucket. I was bush hogging at the time and ran over the saw. The bush hog won.

Man- can only wonder what that sounded like...

Brutal.

I had a 359 that I got talked out of. It was a great saw. The 357XP was it's high revving brother—they were all smiles. This was probably the last of Husqvarna's greats... 346XP, 357XP, 359, 372XP.
no pro saws at my dealer today...said he couldnt get any
Originally Posted by keith
028 Sthl here, does it all for me for decades.......

Non ethanol gas + Kg100 + Red Armor oil makes for a long lasting saw, I use a tad more oil on the older saw and the KG 100 burns off any excess off the top of the cylinder head and valves.

What's Kg100?
Originally Posted by kingston
Originally Posted by keith
028 Sthl here, does it all for me for decades.......

Non ethanol gas + Kg100 + Red Armor oil makes for a long lasting saw, I use a tad more oil on the older saw and the KG 100 burns off any excess off the top of the cylinder head and valves.

What's Kg100?

Wonder if it was a typo or auto correct. I found K100 fuel additive, which given the context might be it?

https://k-100.com/
Originally Posted by Teal
Originally Posted by kingston
Originally Posted by keith
028 Sthl here, does it all for me for decades.......

Non ethanol gas + Kg100 + Red Armor oil makes for a long lasting saw, I use a tad more oil on the older saw and the KG 100 burns off any excess off the top of the cylinder head and valves.

What's Kg100?

Wonder if it was a typo or auto correct. I found K100 fuel additive, which given the context might be it?

https://k-100.com/



I found that too. Expensive stuff. The cost to treat diesel fuel is $0.80/gal.
The answers you get when you ask so many people that you would chainsaw once or twice a year or incredible.
Originally Posted by kingston
Originally Posted by Teal
Originally Posted by kingston
Originally Posted by keith
028 Sthl here, does it all for me for decades.......

Non ethanol gas + Kg100 + Red Armor oil makes for a long lasting saw, I use a tad more oil on the older saw and the KG 100 burns off any excess off the top of the cylinder head and valves.

What's Kg100?

Wonder if it was a typo or auto correct. I found K100 fuel additive, which given the context might be it?

https://k-100.com/



I found that too. Expensive stuff. The cost to treat diesel fuel is $0.80/gal.

My damn phone will put a "g" next to a K automatically if I just type "K" - it's annoying and you'd think it would "learn" given all the times I respond to texts with just "k"
Find you an old 922 Homelite. grin
.02
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Originally Posted by Raeford
Originally Posted by Teal
I ended up with quotes from 4 places within an hour of me on that 462 - all exactly the same down to the penny. lol. All had it in stock but said the 400C was impossible to find right now. 2 had a 362 available if I was interested.

As mentioned prior, all Stihl dealers have to sell at the same price whether on sale or straight up
That's not true.
Originally Posted by Teal
I ended up with quotes from 4 places within an hour of me on that 462 - all exactly the same down to the penny. lol. All had it in stock but said the 400C was impossible to find right now. 2 had a 362 available if I was interested.
My local dealer is selling the MS462 with a 28" ES bar for $1189 out the door .
Might consider a Neo-TEC, or Holzfforma. They’re Chinese clones of some of the best saws Stihl and Husqvarna ever made. I bought a Holzffarma G444. Clone of the Stihl 044. Good saw, especially considering it was 350 bucks. I had a big Maple that my other saws couldn’t handle. It’s a big saw with lots of power. But they make a clone of the Stihl 360. Neo-TEC also makes a clone of the Husky 365 that you might consider. 65cc saw. Good compromise sized saw.
Dumcock
Originally Posted by Nollij
.02
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Stihl got mine runs like a bear, youbegettner...mb
Originally Posted by JBabcock
Might consider a Neo-TEC, or Holzfforma. They’re Chinese clones of some of the best saws Stihl and Husqvarna ever made. I bought a Holzffarma G444. Clone of the Stihl 044. Good saw, especially considering it was 350 bucks. I had a big Maple that my other saws couldn’t handle. It’s a big saw with lots of power. But they make a clone of the Stihl 360. Neo-TEC also makes a clone of the Husky 365 that you might consider. 65cc saw. Good compromise sized saw.
Chinese garbage.
Originally Posted by BWalker
Originally Posted by JBabcock
Might consider a Neo-TEC, or Holzfforma. They’re Chinese clones of some of the best saws Stihl and Husqvarna ever made. I bought a Holzffarma G444. Clone of the Stihl 044. Good saw, especially considering it was 350 bucks. I had a big Maple that my other saws couldn’t handle. It’s a big saw with lots of power. But they make a clone of the Stihl 360. Neo-TEC also makes a clone of the Husky 365 that you might consider. 65cc saw. Good compromise sized saw.
Chinese garbage.

Have you run one? Every part interchangeable. For the guy who runs a saw 3 or 4 times a year, it’s a smart purchase.
I have about 25 Pro-Stihl saws. At one time, I had over fifty with many multiples up to 123cc 50+" bars. None of the new electronic ones though.

For a 24-25" bar, I would run an 046, MS460, MS461, MS462.
At 20", I would run an 034 Super, 036, MS360, MS361, MS362
Below 20", MS261

One of the nicest small saws for limbing is the extremely scarce MS200 rear handle. There is probably no one on this board that has one of those or has probably ever used one for that matter.
Almost all the MS200 produced were the top handle model.

You want to avoid running a bar that is too long for the weight of your power head......like a 24" bar on an MS36x. Even though it might pull it OK, you have too much weight out front, which causes the operator to continually pull up on the front handle and push down on the back, every time you pull the saw from the cut. That will wear you out in no time. You're better off with the heavier 460 so the saw stays balanced when out of the cut.

Tony

Attached picture Stihlsaws4.jpg
Dang, Tony, that is one heck of a saw collection!

Good info also.
Originally Posted by TonyRumore
I have about 25 Pro-Stihl saws. At one time, I had over fifty with many multiples up to 123cc 50+" bars. None of the new electronic ones though.

For a 24-25" bar, I would run an 046, MS460, MS461, MS462.
At 20", I would run an 034 Super, 036, MS360, MS361, MS362
Below 20", MS261

One of the nicest small saws for limbing is the extremely scarce MS200 rear handle. There is probably no one on this board that has one of those or has probably ever used one for that matter.
Almost all the MS200 produced were the top handle model.

You want to avoid running a bar that is too long for the weight of your power head......like a 24" bar on an MS36x. Even though it might pull it OK, you have too much weight out front, which causes the operator to continually pull up on the front handle and push down on the back, every time you pull the saw from the cut. That will wear you out in no time. You're better off with the heavier 460 so the saw stays balanced when out of the cut.

Tony

I'm jealous, even if they are stihls. Very nice
Originally Posted by TonyRumore
I have about 25 Pro-Stihl saws. At one time, I had over fifty with many multiples up to 123cc 50+" bars. None of the new electronic ones though.

For a 24-25" bar, I would run an 046, MS460, MS461, MS462.
At 20", I would run an 034 Super, 036, MS360, MS361, MS362
Below 20", MS261

One of the nicest small saws for limbing is the extremely scarce MS200 rear handle. There is probably no one on this board that has one of those or has probably ever used one for that matter.
Almost all the MS200 produced were the top handle model.

You want to avoid running a bar that is too long for the weight of your power head......like a 24" bar on an MS36x. Even though it might pull it OK, you have too much weight out front, which causes the operator to continually pull up on the front handle and push down on the back, every time you pull the saw from the cut. That will wear you out in no time. You're better off with the heavier 460 so the saw stays balanced when out of the cut.

Tony
And near impossible to find!!!! One in 14 stores
I have one......and believe I tried to buy one of yours or you got there first on Arboristsite
And I’ve run it to death.
That and a 150T stayin mytruck.
I’m 70 next weekand it will be my Birthday Present a new 201.
Like you I have ported saws from a 150 to an 090.....done by Randy Evans and others.
That 201 Roth a timing advance and MM is sweet.
Have you run one? Every part interchangeable. For the guy who runs a saw 3 or 4 times a year, it’s a smart purchase.[/quote]
Originally Posted by JBabcock
Originally Posted by BWalker
Originally Posted by JBabcock
Might consider a Neo-TEC, or Holzfforma. They’re Chinese clones of some of the best saws Stihl and Husqvarna ever made. I bought a Holzffarma G444. Clone of the Stihl 044. Good saw, especially considering it was 350 bucks. I had a big Maple that my other saws couldn’t handle. It’s a big saw with lots of power. But they make a clone of the Stihl 360. Neo-TEC also makes a clone of the Husky 365 that you might consider. 65cc saw. Good compromise sized saw.
Chinese garbage.

Have you run one? Every part interchangeable. For the guy who runs a saw 3 or 4 times a year, it’s a smart purchase.
They are passable IF you read thru a build thread and replace the original parts with OEM

Why do you think the build threads are 100+ pages long
Originally Posted by 257_X_50
Have you run one? Every part interchangeable. For the guy who runs a saw 3 or 4 times a year, it’s a smart purchase.
Originally Posted by JBabcock
Originally Posted by BWalker
Originally Posted by JBabcock
Might consider a Neo-TEC, or Holzfforma. They’re Chinese clones of some of the best saws Stihl and Husqvarna ever made. I bought a Holzffarma G444. Clone of the Stihl 044. Good saw, especially considering it was 350 bucks. I had a big Maple that my other saws couldn’t handle. It’s a big saw with lots of power. But they make a clone of the Stihl 360. Neo-TEC also makes a clone of the Husky 365 that you might consider. 65cc saw. Good compromise sized saw.
Chinese garbage.

Have you run one? Every part interchangeable. For the guy who runs a saw 3 or 4 times a year, it’s a smart purchase.
They are passable IF you read thru a build thread and replace the original parts with OEM

Why do you think the build threads are 100+ pages long[/quote]
Exactly. Use nothing rubber that's comes from Holtzaforma. And even after replacing all the parts the need replacing with OEM the chicom copies do not run as well as the parent models did.
Originally Posted by JBabcock
Originally Posted by BWalker
Originally Posted by JBabcock
Might consider a Neo-TEC, or Holzfforma. They’re Chinese clones of some of the best saws Stihl and Husqvarna ever made. I bought a Holzffarma G444. Clone of the Stihl 044. Good saw, especially considering it was 350 bucks. I had a big Maple that my other saws couldn’t handle. It’s a big saw with lots of power. But they make a clone of the Stihl 360. Neo-TEC also makes a clone of the Husky 365 that you might consider. 65cc saw. Good compromise sized saw.
Chinese garbage.

Have you run one? Every part interchangeable. For the guy who runs a saw 3 or 4 times a year, it’s a smart purchase.
I have. A 440 clone I helped a coworker with.
You couldn't give me one.
Well fellas - I pulled the trigger on a Makita ea5000. I’ve been playing with it for a few days now & it’s an excellent saw. Knowing that Makita is set to discontinue the saw and parts can be tough to come by I still invested. Reasons - rock solid magnesium case, old school carbs, high rpm’s and a legendary legacy. I’m my own wrench and don’t seek out shops for repair so I knew I was set to maintain it as needed.

This saw is a beast. Simply smokes my older 028 AV Super - which served me impeccably for 30 years & still will.

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Thanks for all of your help - never would have thought about Dolmar/Makita but that has now changed.
Originally Posted by Nollij
.02
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I stumbled onto one of these cheap at a farm sale
I new to was 60 cc as 036 pro was its replacement
What I didn’t relize was it a smaller lighter saw than the 036. Same size and weight as the old 028
With a big bore engine. It is a ripper
One of my favorite saws
Originally Posted by CGPAUL
Not sure if this has been mentioned, but check out Bucking Billy Ray on YouTube. Impressive chain saw knowledge.

My boys (2 & 7) get a kick out of Billy Ray on the Tube.
Originally Posted by PintsofCraft
Well fellas - I pulled the trigger on a Makita ea5000. I’ve been playing with it for a few days now & it’s an excellent saw. Knowing that Makita is set to discontinue the saw and parts can be tough to come by I still invested. Reasons - rock solid magnesium case, old school carbs, high rpm’s and a legendary legacy. I’m my own wrench and don’t seek out shops for repair so I knew I was set to maintain it as needed.

This saw is a beast. Simply smokes my older 028 AV Super - which served me impeccably for 30 years & still will.

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

Thanks for all of your help - never would have thought about Dolmar/Makita but that has now changed.

I have a Makita belt sander that I have had for 28 years. I use it to sand the walls of log cabins, that is about 35 hours of tough sanding per house. Never gave me a lick of trouble. Unbelievable quality on Makita tools.

Wait, I think you are victim of a Nigerian scammer, all Makita tools are blue.
Not sure if it’s been stated yet but I have a Sthil MS 261. It’s a very fine saw indeed and so is my old 028
Husqvarna XL 372 .They can take up to a 30" bar and last forever.I have three of them that I used for commercial logging before wood processors became popular for logging.
Stihl


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