Installing a small wood stove in an 8x8 shed with a tin roof ; 2 stories high. Looking to bore a hole and put up 6 inch pipe in the most convenient simple way. Any ideas welcome Thanx.
Be sure to use triple wall pipe to keep the heat away from the roof and rafters, etc. We used a King wood heater for 20-something years as our only source of home heat. Had a couple of chimney fires from creosote buildup, and the triple wall kept the house from burning down.
Well, you can add a couple of 90's and simply run it through the wall. ....or you can run it through the roof. I believe I'd run it through the wall before I'd go straight up two stories to go through the roof. An 8×8, 2 story shed? Kind of an odd configuration, but whatever.
I'd go up 1 full length of stove pipe, 90° back to the wall. I think standard stove pipe is 36". I'd set the stove 24" from the wall and carry the stove pipe 18" from any exterior wall. That will keep you from having to work off a ladder or climb something to go through the roof. Through the wall may cause some draft problems, but nothing that can't be overcome. It is generally considered a stove pipe should clear the ridgeline of a home by 2 feet.
Did a bunch of science once to cut an elliptical hole that snugly fit my triple wall pipe. Inspecter said I needed 4 inches of clearance all around. Should have eyeballed the job and done it with a chainsaw.
Get a friggn install kit from the stove store. They will also have information on county and state codes. Not trying to rude , just helpful! Might speed up your install also!
Thanx for the info. Tin roof no insulation, want to use single wall stove pipe , will look at stove store ideas , may create home made thimbles for upper floor and waterproof same for roof . Mostly worried about water ingress around roof opening and how to prevent it. Temp. at floor and roof should be < 200' F. Lower room <7' ceiling ,upper 6.5. Stove ,coffee, compressor and sandblaste ,ladder to loft.
When I installed my Stove pipe in my 300 sq. ft room in Arizona. I did 90s and put it threw the wall under the roof eave. I wrapped a 2 inch thick Ceramic Insulation around the pipe and I am going to wrap another 2 inch thick piece of Ceramic Insulation around that giving me 4 inches of fire Proof Insulation around my Stove Pipe.
I have a Neighbor friend that is a retired upper end Fireman and he told me that he had never seen anything like what I did. He also told me that there would be no way that my stove pipe could start my place on fire the way I insulated the pipe. I took the Insulation out 12 inches on ether side of the wall and contained it with a piece of light Gage sheet metal . I will do the same when I wrap the second layer around the pipe
You can take a Lit up Oxy/Acet. Rose bud torch to that Ceramic Blanket Insulation and hold your hand on the other side for quite some time before you can feel any heat getting threw that Blanket.
Get a friggn install kit from the stove store. They will also have information on county and state codes. Not trying to rude , just helpful! Might speed up your install also!
Did a bunch of science once to cut an elliptical hole that snugly fit my triple wall pipe. Inspecter said I needed 4 inches of clearance all around. Should have eyeballed the job and done it with a chainsaw.
Thanx for the info. Tin roof no insulation, want to use single wall stove pipe , will look at stove store ideas , may create home made thimbles for upper floor and waterproof same for roof . Mostly worried about water ingress around roof opening and how to prevent it. Temp. at floor and roof should be < 200' F. Lower room <7' ceiling ,upper 6.5. Stove ,coffee, compressor and sandblaste ,ladder to loft.
You probably know, but single wall is fine INSIDE, but outside, you need to use double or triple wall pipe. Single wall OUTSIDE will lead to excessive creosote formation, and much higher chance of a chimney fire.
A “kit” to get you through the roof should be about $250-$400. A couple of 2-3’ sections of stainless double-wall pipe for outside will be about $100 each, and then $30-$50 for a cap. Your inside single wall pipe will be pretty cheap.
I had to do some re-work to the chimney in my house, what was existing wasn't close to code. You can access NFPA 211 online, and that has all the proper clearances needed for the pipe you want to use. NFPA is THE standard for any/all things related to fire protection. The verbiage they use can be a little tough to understand, but doable.
I think I would run through (not threw) a wall and up instead of two breachings (floor and roof).
I searching on line it becomes clear many places make completely false statements about what you "have to use", in order to sell products. Trust NFPA.
Well, you can add a couple of 90's and simply run it through the wall. ....or you can run it through the roof. I believe I'd run it through the wall before I'd go straight up two stories to go through the roof. An 8×8, 2 story shed? Kind of an odd configuration, but whatever.
I'd go up 1 full length of stove pipe, 90° back to the wall. I think standard stove pipe is 36". I'd set the stove 24" from the wall and carry the stove pipe 18" from any exterior wall. That will keep you from having to work off a ladder or climb something to go through the roof. Through the wall may cause some draft problems, but nothing that can't be overcome. It is generally considered a stove pipe should clear the ridgeline of a home by 2 feet.
Good luck!
the 90 thru the wall should increse the aount of heat retained inside too. especially if you make the 90 on the second floor.
I discovered today that creosote build up happens to an outside pipe whether it is single double or tripple walled.The double wall pipe allows for closer clearances to combustibles ,especially if the inter air space is filled with a fire clay or wool. There is a gye on utube who makes his own with a 1 in. air space. He puts 6 inch pipe inside 8 inch held apart with metal tabs pop riveted. Yes it is 8x8 square and @ 15 feet high for a look out in the loft which doubles as a second floor. 4 4x6 14 foot poles 2 feet in the ground mortice and tenon construction also called post and beam. Ther is a place outside of town that ,in the late 19th Century , was located a clay deposit that,when assayed in Seattle was found to be fire clay which doesn't burn and which supplied bricks all over the world when things were steam and they needed to line their boilers..I think I'll go out there and see if I can locate it so as to custom make any shapes I need for the project. I recon I could ontact some excavation companies in the area who are digging or inquire at the City Hall Museum about the former operation and just where the deposit was.
You get hugely more creosote buildup in single wall flue
This.
Yes, you can get creosote in single/double/triple. The double/triple will maintain their internal (high) temp better/get less condensation/develop MUCH less creosote. Also, if you DO get a chimney fire, the extra walls should help in that respect as well (keep the outer wall from getting hot as quickly).
Do as you wish, but chimney fires are REAL and can be disastrous.
I discovered today that creosote build up happens to an outside pipe whether it is single double or tripple walled.The double wall pipe allows for closer clearances to combustibles ,especially if the inter air space is filled with a fire clay or wool. There is a gye on utube who makes his own with a 1 in. air space. He puts 6 inch pipe inside 8 inch held apart with metal tabs pop riveted. Yes it is 8x8 square and @ 15 feet high for a look out in the loft which doubles as a second floor. 4 4x6 14 foot poles 2 feet in the ground mortice and tenon construction also called post and beam. Ther is a place outside of town that ,in the late 19th Century , was located a clay deposit that,when assayed in Seattle was found to be fire clay which doesn't burn and which supplied bricks all over the world when things were steam and they needed to line their boilers..I think I'll go out there and see if I can locate it so as to custom make any shapes I need for the project. I recon I could ontact some excavation companies in the area who are digging or inquire at the City Hall Museum about the former operation and just where the deposit was.
you should have said you wanted to do this the hardest way possible when you first posted.
I discovered today that creosote build up happens to an outside pipe whether it is single double or tripple walled.The double wall pipe allows for closer clearances to combustibles ,especially if the inter air space is filled with a fire clay or wool. There is a gye on utube who makes his own with a 1 in. air space. He puts 6 inch pipe inside 8 inch held apart with metal tabs pop riveted. Yes it is 8x8 square and @ 15 feet high for a look out in the loft which doubles as a second floor. 4 4x6 14 foot poles 2 feet in the ground mortice and tenon construction also called post and beam. Ther is a place outside of town that ,in the late 19th Century , was located a clay deposit that,when assayed in Seattle was found to be fire clay which doesn't burn and which supplied bricks all over the world when things were steam and they needed to line their boilers..I think I'll go out there and see if I can locate it so as to custom make any shapes I need for the project. I recon I could ontact some excavation companies in the area who are digging or inquire at the City Hall Museum about the former operation and just where the deposit was.
you should have said you wanted to do this the hardest way possible when you first posted.
Don’t go raining on his parade. He wants to take a field trip to the clay pits.....create some shapes..fire them in the kiln...You know—re-invent the wheel...
Excellent description of the process but you need to have the top of your flue at least at ridge height for it to draw properly Also DO NOT silicone internal flue
He also has his flue sections upside down, the female joint should be at the top otherwise condensation and creosote will run down the outside of the flue leading to manky stains