Was wondering what those of you with a butcher block counter top use to protect it from stains, messes, etc? It will not be used as a cutting board, just as a counter/bar top. A quick search online shows folks using either butcher block oil or some covering it with a clear polyurethane.

Suggestions and advice welcomed and appreciated.

Repairs and maintenance are easier with oil

I like wood working. I'd never use a poly compound on a true cutting board or butcher block where the edge of a knife is being used on it. However, the clear epoxy mixes are amazing for a bar/counter type sealant. There are several online videos about how to put the epoxy coat on...every one of them makes a mess. A few tricks include a blow torch and a super level surface (or it all runs off to one side). I wouldn't use a brush on polyurethane, the epoxy stuff looks so good, so professional that there's no reason not to use it.

Oil.

Osky

Maybe Danish oil, I've made a version of that.

https://www.rubiomonocoatusa.com/collections/oil-plus-2c

100% Tung oil (no petroleum solvents added) is non-toxic- - - - -good for real cutting boards, and gunstocks.

pointer;
Good evening, I hope the day behaved for you and you're well.

A couple of quick questions first if I may sir.

Is the butcher block end grain like a working butcher block is or is it side grain?

It's raw wood correct?

What kind of wood is it made out of?

For 27 years I worked in the cabinet and furniture industry, much of that in finishing, so what I've asked will have an effect on what we're trying to do is all.

All the best and Happy Thanksgiving.

Dwayne

Gotta be food grade oil...

Used motor oil.

Let me preface this by saying that this is in a newly purchased home. I did not pick it out, nor do I really know much about it. The counter top is side grain. I do not know what kind of wood. I'd guess pine by the light color. I plan on this just being a counter top and not using it as a cutting board.

Thanks all for the advice and suggestions! I'm leaning towards oil, specifically the product JeffA posted a picture of.

I'd be surprised if it was pine - probably maple.

^This, that's what I used on the last place I remodeled. The counter tops looked sweet when it was finished. Poly is going to show wear in no time.

pointer;
Thanks for the reply.

The pickle we have with a butcher block of any wood is that it's tough to make anything other than a rubbed on oil finish look smooth and seal because of all the joints in the wood.

If you decide to go with something like an oil though, it'll be difficult to change in the future should you wish to.

I've finished maple butcher block tops with a water based floor finish with good results, but it took about 5 applications with sanding in between.

In the furniture shop we used a finish that was NKBA - National Kitchen & Bath Association - rated for bar tops, but it needed to be applied with a spray gun to get a decent finish and frankly we couldn't/wouldn't ever do it outside of a spray booth with good air movement as it was fairly bad for you until it cured completely.

Oil finishes, in my experience, while they are easier to repair and to some degree maintain, will get water, alcohol and mustard stains on them more readily than a tougher finish.

Even a 2 part polyurethane floor rated finish however can be damaged with heat, so remember your hot pot mats regardless of the finish used on that butcher block top.

Hopefully that all made sense and was useful.

All the best and again Happy Thanksgiving.

Dwayne

I bought a somewhat expensive Amish made butcher block island top, and tried to finish it with the food-grade butcher-block oil. The oil would soak in or evaporate in a matter of days. I applied it probably eight times. Finally gave up on it and put on Polyurethane, which only took two coats and made a stain-proof finish. It was not used for actual butchering and cutting. It was not end grain, but I can't remember what wood.

Many great options because there are so many parameters...

LOL
50:50 with diesel?

Food grade bio-diesel

I used a food grade Waterlox brand on mine 20 years ago and haven't had an issue.

You want used gear oil for interior use.
The smell is AAAAAAMAZING!
The wife will LOVE it!!!

OP,

Find a product called goodstuff. It is food safe if needed and completely seals the Maple.

One word of warning, don't sand the block above 180grit for the best finish. Finer grit sanding on maple will cause "fuzzy" spots in the maple due to the grain getting plugged up by maple dust.

I always put at least 3 coats on and that will bring up the grain and seal the block with a nice satin finish.

Give the block a good rubbed in coat, let dry for a couple hours, use 0000 steel would to smooth the finish out and repeat 2 or 3 more times and you are done.

If the block isn't going to be used to hack stuff up, you won't need to refinish the block again.

https://www.butcherblock.com/product/emmets-good-stuff/

I have a few Boos Blocks

I do use them for cutting boards and to serv food

I use the Boos oil

There maybe something better but its what I currently use
Hank

Seems that epoxy would be pretty tough to beat for durability and water proofing. I toyed with the idea of flood coating a table with epoxy a few years back but chickened out and went with poly.