If any of you are experienced plumbers or have dealt with or who have worked on old plumbing fixtures and sinks could use some help

The bottom drain cast iron piece, is it part of the sink as in all one piece or does it come off? Not talking about the flange with the two nuts. Obviously that comes off

That’s a cool sink. Surely that piece comes off.

does the top drain piece(s) pictured in the sink screw out?

I don't know what its called. Where you put the stopper.

You need a tool that goes into the drain from the top on each side that unscrews that brass coupling from the bottom part…

Then you can’t put new drain’s in each side and use modern plumbing for it.

If those are stuck. You can always cut the bottom section off, and or grind it off to separate them.

they have the tool at any hardware store, basically it’s got 2 cuts across the bottom that fit into the drain piece (if it’s a tub type drain ).. if it’s a sick drank they it’s going to be tuffer becaus you have to just unscrew them…. You COULD always take a Dremel cutting tool and cut the inside flange off the top pieces by cutting inside the drain tube, but you’d have to do it just below the lip because if you cut too far down you’ll have to cut the steep insert to get to the brass first.

Not sure if the top drain piece comes out or not . Trying to buy it for our new house build!

If you notice the center sink divider has a drain hole for
Overflow as well which would probably be independent of the other two plumbing wise

Okay. So spotshooter the top drain pieces screw out and the bottom flange will come off. Then I can plumb with whatever size it ends up being. I think it’s 1.5” plumbing on this old sink. Any idea what the tool is I need to remove those pieces?!

Sorry. Our timing was on. You answered my question !

Thanks

Strainer baskets are probably threaded into that rusted out connector. With any luck the threads are solid brass, so hopefully not totally rust welded together.
You might be able to crack that cast iron part with some careful whacks with a hammer or hammer and cold chisel.
But, the sink is probably cast as well, so that would risk cracking the sink body.
Sawzall with a cast iron blade, but that isn't really the most fun.

Leave everything be and use a Fernco coupling. Neal

Personally I would not disassemble anything.

Can of worms...

Buy or fabricated a transition from the old drain pipe and go new from there.

Gelcoat the drains inside the sink any color you like.

Nice old sink.

Fernco...

probably a good idea, maybe a rubber coupling with two clamps on it

is that what a Fernco is? I've never heard it called that

You are in for a lot off frustration. I would buy some cut off disk for you smaller grinder and go to work cutting everything. It is my guess, that silver piece is installed into the cast iron piece like a standard sink and you have to get the two square nuts off to get it out The studs are probably threaded in to the casting,but severely rusted.

The drain rings in the sink itself are probably threaded into the casting with plumber's putty applied to the bottom drain ring.

Getting every thing will be the hard part.


Don't know if you can find a dual sink drain with outlets that close, you might have to use PVC an design your own.

Or just buy a rubber coupling and attach to that bottom silver piece after cleaning it up.


Home Depot shows these.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/SIMPLE-...uLoBwKDoUxoCulwQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Fernco is a rubber coupling with either 2 or 4 hose clamps and come in many different sizes. Fernco is a brand name. I wish I knew how to post pics. Neal

If I can get everything off and need to reuse the bottom piece I can have the uncle who owns metal finishing business get rust off and zinc plate for free

I’m not opposed to leaving as is and fixing the leak and the bottom flange where the two nuts are. It held water for 5 days and that area had some leaking.

I would just prefer to fix it now before it’s installed. Easier for sure

Yep, if your going to restore go all the way.

Use the original parts, that cast piece would clean up well, powder coat it or just a high quality primer and paint.

The drop tube is still available

$21.50
Brass Sink Funnel

1 1/2″ x 8″. raw brass only. Fits the Old style concrete tubs and some farmhouse sinks. This is the drain that fits the Oddball “Horn” styled drains. Gasket no longer made, use silicone or a Mack basin washer. Outside diameter of flared end is 2 1/4″.



https://deabath.com/product/sink-funnel-drain-for-concrete-tub-sinks/

Or here

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Wal-rich-0110004-1-1-2-x-8-Sink-Funnel

Cast Iron Sink Collar For Funnel Drains

$10.00



https://deabath.com/product/cast-iron-sink-collar-for-funnel-drains/

Collar also available @

https://www.plumbmaster.com/wal-ric...OwLr0-wIVzMCGCh3h1gFIEAQYAiABEgLsBPD_BwE

Or here

https://www.giahardware.com/CAST_IRON_SINK_COLLAR_p/wr-0509500.htm

That overflow can be a problem. I'm guessing there's some kind of hole with a gasket in the top of the cast iron that it drains into. Finding an aftermarket piece for it could be difficult at best.

As one has already said, leave it alone and use the Fernco Coupling if possible. Before placing it in its location, set it up outside using a Fernco Coupling and the end capped off, fill the tub with water and let it sit to see if it leaks.

Phil

I’ve never seen one like that, bottom slip joint will come off. Why can’t you connect there with new brass or plastic slip nut fitting?

I’m sure I can connect to the bottom tail piece with a slip

But once installed will be much harder to repair any issues down the road. It weighs 337lbs so not taking in and out would be ideal. So restoring that now would be advantageous

Don’t plan on restoring the enamel other than fixing the two chips.

Jeff. Thanks for the info!!

Here is some images of one disassembled so you know what you're up against.

The old cast iron wall brackets are readily available if the back of that sink is designed to be hung.





I'd guess those threaded screw in sink baskets or strainers would be easily replaceable if you have to destroy the old ones to get them out. I'd put new ones in regardless.

Odd ball gaskets can be made from rubber gasket material or possibly just puumbers putty.

Jeff. Your awesome

Thank you so much. This will be going into our laundry room if we can make the purchase

My father relentlessly told me to go all the way or stay home.

Never been sorry he drilled that into me, it's always paid off.

I'm seeing a couple similar vintage sinks of that condition for sale online for $1000.00 to $1200.00

Picked up the sink today in Asheville nc. In as good or better shape than the owner described! Was made 9/22/38! He took it out of a house they were restoring as owners wanted more modern sink in utility. How dumb. Heavy AF

Then the wife found a single basin 1931 concrete slant front utility sink 30 minutes north of Asheville. So I bounced up there and grabbed it to for 75$. It was just removed from the house as the 2nd owners of the house decided to update the downstairs. Was original to the house per the owner and her grandparents built the house. Date stamp was 3/1930.

Don’t even know where we will use it but couldn’t pass it up!

You're on a roll!


It looked great in the image you posted, I was surprised when you said there were two chips, I didn't see them.

If you end up not having a place for the second sink with your build you can get it prepped for installation and sell it.

Leave the sink as-is, the patina in priceless combined with a little provenance in today's market.

Just get the drain ready for install and put a nifty mixer on it and you could probably get better than a grand for it, $1500 even.

Highend interior decorators are starved for such items.

People are lost on proper restoration, gotta be willing to chase down original parts and pieces.

Keep the level of a trap in mind with the one you're installing.
It's going to be exceptional low, the receiving drain connection will have to be a perfect match.

Notta issue if you're thinking ahead with your construction.

I worked on two of those as I remember. The drain flange's were frozen on both. I used a Dremel and a cutoff wheel and cut them about 1/4" down from the top (inside). The holes were too small for the replacement drain flange. I used the drum sand piece on the Dremel to wallow them open a bit until the new flange dropped in. I used bathtub drain flanges.

I’ll try to post some good images today!