Any of you guys have a camp trailer? Thinking about buying one and I’m going to look at a 2006 KZ camper tomorrow. For those that have a camper let me know what I should be looking for. I am not thrilled about storing it and am still considering a small offroad trailer with a rooftop tent but with a wife and 2 kids I want them to be comfortable

Bunkhouse style or extended living type(master bedroom etc)? MB

What will you be towing with?

The big question is are you going to set up a hunting camp with your trailer. Or you going to be pulling around the country.
If pulling consider your tow vehicle. I personally don’t like to pull anything over 32 foot. I’m talking 5th wheel with slides.
For using as a camp, the bigger the better. Hasbeen

Hello friend. I've spent a lot of time around campers and for what it's worth anything made by Northwood Manufacturing is probably going to make you happy.

They are one of they only manufacturers that makes their own frames, and are hell for stout. 4-season as well, which is nice for late-season hunting and winter camping should you so choose.

You'll pay a bit more for them, but they'll give you far less grief than most.

Best of luck.

Dave

Consider floor plans. Some are terrible with a lot of wasted space. Some of the bumper pulls with rear doors are especially bad.
A lot of campers use the same bathroom layout. By necessity, the toilet has to sit inside the frame so the drain lines can reach the tank. They set the toilet facing the inside and put the wall too close. Your knees almost touch the wall and it's very hard to get your balance to stand up and get your pants up.

I’ll be pulling it with my old 98 dodge with a 12 valve diesel. It’ll pull. Don’t plan on keeping clients in it but may use it as a base camp while hunting for myself and friends but it’s mAinly just for family trips

I don’t have any pics but I built my own out of a wells cargo enclosed utility trailer..... I was able to add a FULL size shower, fold down bunks/ couches, roof mounted AC, and a propane furnace. Walls/ceiling insulated with that foam board insulation, linoleum on the floor....a few cabinets..... all cooking done outside.....can still haul a couple quads or whatever.....this forum was a bunch of help.

http://www.tnttt.com/viewforum.php?f=42

Get as big of one as you can safely pull. A Fifth Wheel is best.

I have a toyhauler that allows me to haul my side by side or 2 4 wheelers and still camp with all the comforts of home. Gas station, on board generator, hot/cold running water, heat and air. This one has a front bedroom for comfort and privacy. I would stay away from any canvas slides or pop ups, they will always be a disappointment. These can be found on Craigslist and KSL classifieds at great savings over buying new...

Drummond,

I'm just up the road from you. Had a similar choice a few years ago buying a camper for the family and the side benefit of using it for hunting trips. I'm in the minority on the 5th wheel aspect, as I really like having bed space for extra gear and dead critters. I'm running a 28' bunkhouse and we are a family of 5. Its big enough to enjoy, but not so big as being a pain to get in places. Especially in the NF. With the 10k Equalizer hitch it tows like a dream even in stiff wind. I'd be happy to try and meet up with you if you want to take a look. We bought it new in 2017 for what alot of used campers go for in our part of the state. A few things I'd change in the future but those would only pertain to late season hunting and any potential hail storms.

Find one that's been stored in a shed. That's the first thing I'd look for.

Sun and rain are a campers worst enemy.

I've been disappointed with owning camp trailers. I'd rent if I had need at this point in my life. Let someone else take the hit. One roof leak is thousands of dollars to repair the damage, no thanks. If you can afford $30K for a new trailer, all the upkeep, repairs, and depreciation you can afford a few hundred to rent one every now and then. You'll be money and headaches ahead.

The toyhauler aspect would be a big plus. One less thing to tow with the atv inside.
I would keep it as short as possible to get back on some of the narrow roads in the forest.
If you go the generator route, get a quiet one or one that is enclosed, no one enjoys their noise when camping, especially your neighbors 1/4-1/2 mile away trying to enjoy the forest sounds.

Look for a four season, metal framed trailer stored in a shelter. Inspect the roof and stay away from wood framed ones.

Lance makes a great camper. Not cheap but well built good quality. If willing to travel find used ones in Arizona, Texas.
I’m looking for a used Lance and prices seem cheaper on east coast.

If you intend to use it at hunting camp then there are several items that you want to include.

The floor plan is real important. Study that carefully. You want it to be small enough that it's easy to pull and maneuver on dirt roads and at the same time big enough to accommodate four people in sleeping bags. I have a 17' Casita. It's too small. A 21' travel trailer with a slide out and two double beds would fit my uses better. The manufacturers say they are queen size beds but they are not really that big. But they're big enough.

You want it to be capable of operating off the grid for a week or so. So it should have two deep cycle batteries and LED lights. Buy a Honda generator.

You want it to operate in the cold so the piping and tanks must be inside the insulation shell. The furnace must be 100% propane. Mine has a small squirrel cage fan that will consume the battery in one night. So I have to use a Buddy Heater. You want a gravity flow furnace assisted by a tiny fan that's powered by a thermocouple in the furnace flame. The pipes and tanks of mine are not insulated so I have to winterize it and bring water in jugs to hunting camp.

You need a full set of monitor gauges. Water and battery are most important.

You need lots of cabinets for storage. You may have to add some and mount them on the walls yourself.

Don't bother with a microwave oven. They operate only on A/C power and that won't be available at camp. You can use that space better for a cabinet. If you need a microwave, get a portable unit and connect it to your generator.

Your pickup should have a topper to store extra stuff so you don't crowd the inside of the trailer. Don't get a fifth wheel. The hitch consumes the bed of your truck and it prevents you from having a topper. The salesman will say it's easy to remove the hitch but that's a load of crap. I know several people who have fifth wheels and they never remove the hitch. Their rigs are too big for camp and they spend all of their time in RV parks.

Avoid a TV. You go hunting to get away from that stuff.

Get a hitch lock and use it.

Remember that the tires should be inflated to 50 psi.

A trailer built in 2007 is really old. They don't last that long. Lots of things just deteriorate in time. I bought mine new in 2011 and it's time to replace it.

Fireball2 has made a good suggestion! We have a 26ft bunk house with a 14 ft slide. It works great year round. The only problem I have with renting is, lead time to get the trailer. Some mornings the wife will say let's go camping, we load and go. With children the bunk house is great. Ours has slept many grandchildren. Get one with the new one piece roof, tarp or cover when not in use, and drain and winterize when storing. Most trailer campers don't get the required maintenance, look closely when purchasing. Campers can be like boats, money pits if not taken care of properly.

Either a fifth wheel or a goose neck.There are conversions for 5th wheel to goose neck .I prefer the goose neck as you don't have to fiddle with that big frame .You can either put a fold down ball or a drop in ball in the truck bed and then you don't have to be putting in or taking out that frame. Either though are a lot more maneuverable than a bumper pull.

The goose neck ball can be put in pretty easy and is some thing you can do yourself.
With the goose neck or 5th wheel,you also won't have to worry about getting a load equalize hitch .That is another $500-$700.

Renting a few times will let you figure out what you want in terms of floor layout.

This is good advice. The trailer that I now own is my second. I wish I had rented a few different types before buying.

Some of this has probably already been said.
- Get on the roof and inspect it for damage.
- Check the floors for soft spots.
- If its exterior is fiberglass/laminated, check for delamination.
- Plug it in and turn everything on, including the A/C.
- If you’re going to use it off grid, get the model # and check the specs online to see what the tank capacities are. A lot of trailers don’t have big holding tanks b/c most people don’t boondock.
- I like a bigger bathroom and twin bunks as opposed to a smaller bathroom and double bunks. Some of these bathrooms are only made for toddler size people.
- Slideouts add weight but since you won’t have a problem with towing I’d recommend one, especially with a family.

If you have kids, don't even look at anything that doesn't have bunks or separate beds for them. Taking down/putting up tables and couches gets old pretty quickly.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
This, my 28' Nash 25C pull behind with single slide out pulls easily and very stable with my Dodge 2500.

I pretty much agree with KC on all of this. The above is a pretty good analysis.

I have a travel trailer that I use for exactly as you intend. I do take it hunting whenever the place I'm going allows it. They are great for antelope hunts or other hunts where you have a reasonable place to park them. Like KC mentions, though, mine is not a 4 season so I winterize mine and then use water jugs like he does for cold weather hunts. A true four season one where you don't have to do that would be very nice but you're going to pay quite a bit more for those.

I would add a couple things:
1. Make sure it has sleeping accomodations for all the people you intend to take. A lot of these campers cannot sleep more than 2-3 people comfortably and with a family, that turns into a true pain.
2. Inspect the roof (usually rubber) before you buy and then be sure to cover the roof when storing it.
3. Inspect the tires and make sure they look good with no uneven wear.
4. Get a generator since you'll need that to charge the battery if you're boondocking it. The alternative is to get a solar panel set up. A lot of the newer campers are coming with this sort of arrangement. Not sure how well they do for charging the battery, but it sounds good.
5. I've avoided slide outs because I've heard of too many people having problems getting them to actually slide out or slide back in. I'd rather not have to fight that battle, especially when I'm hunting or the weather sucks. They add a lot more weight to the trailer as well.

Good luck!

We too have a 26’ toyhauler that is convenient and can haul ATV, coolers and lots of gear. Now, I am getting on in age and am looking at smaller trailers. My 2009 Puma Unleashed toyhauler is up for sale. Asking $14,500 in great condition. Lots of upgrades and more. MTG

One thing I have is a $90 Harbor Frieght 2 cycle generator, about 800 watts.I only use it to charge the battery during the day. I use a std truck battery ,850CCA.The marine batteries cannot be fast charged.

I changed all the lighting to LED's ( cheap from Amazon).

The battery will last about 3 days using the fan blower in the heater a few time sat night and in the AM to take the chill off in 2nd rifle season.As mentioned, I take water jugs when it is expected to freeze.

My camper is a little pop up slide in so a bigger one will take a bit more.

Campers are like tents.When they say it will sleep 6 ,figure 4 and that is if everyone is real friendly.Check the mattresses to make sure they are not just a 4" piece of foam.

Concerning generators.The Hondas( 2KW) will be quieter, but they all make noise that is a nuisance to fellow campers. The most aggravating thing to me is to get out in an area thinking I will have peace and quite and enjoy the wilds and have some yahoo pull in and fire up a generator that he keeps running 24/7

I tied into the gas line at the stove and ran a line over to a cupboard door with a valve at the end. Then I bought a 10' hose with the appropriate fittings and got me one a them freestanding catalytic heaters I could move around the trailer. It would run all day and night, use no power. I just cracked a few windows so I didn't wake up dead and man was that the sheit. Go out hunting all day, come back to a warm trailer and a FULL BATTERY! Used no power to stay warm, it was the only way to go.

Somebody from the 'fire was going to put a wood stove in his camper, can't remember who. It was about a year ago. Wonder if it worked out.

I did the exact same thing. Those Olympian catalytic heaters work very well and you don't need to worry about running the battery down. I was going to tie into the stove as well, but found that on the underside of the camper, there was a T-fitting on the gas line with one end that was capped. Just attached my hose to that, drilled a hole through the floor, fed the line in, and then sealed it with expanding foam. Turned out to be a lot easier than I thought it would be.

Just starting building one out of an 8' Ford bed that came off of a 1991. Don't think I need to do anything crazy with suspension besides new shocks. Haven't decided yet whether to go with a hard top or a soft topper. Probably going to go with a hard top camper shell. I'm in no rush. Work on it here and there but will take and share pics when it's done. Should be a nice little beach/camp crasher when it's done.

I have had several bumper pulls. Tore the axels off of one 4 times. They are not mean to be pulled down dirt roads. Anything new will need the suspension replaced in 10,000 miles with the good stuff. All wheel bearings are made in china, Replace them with Timken. If it is not a true 4 season water lines will freeze and it will leak like a sieve. Every year I am some where and see someone with a slide out that will not retract. I did tell you I pull a 21 footer 10,000 every year for the past 3 years. We often get together and laugh about what POS all makes are!

I can give an opinion that works for us, but most will disagree! A Teton Homes, fifth wheel, very heavy ( ours weights 20 K pounds ready to go) 36 to 40 feet, will require a HD Diesel ( preferably a dually) to tow, extreme quality, fairly large tank capacities, dual pane windows, one of the heaviest, most massive frames in industry, as at home at -20 F as it is at 100+ F. We spend 3 weeks or more, boondocking every fall, while hunting....often seeing single digit temperatures, while enjoying warm showers and creature comforts. Very few 4 star motel/hotels have nicer woodwork or furnishings. The major drawback, the company folded in 2007, about the same time most of the high end rv’s went under....due to the crashing economy. Another potential problem, is that, it was designed for two people. However, a quality “hide a bed” can make it very comfortable for additional folks. If one is very careful, learns much about RV construction/quality....there are a few of these out there at good prices.

No.....you can’t bring it down a tree lined 2-track road, though we have had ours several miles off-road, provided you’ve got wide turns and 14 feet of overhead clearance! We’ve lived with the elk in total comfort for weeks at a time! And.....if the family wants a nice vacation RV for family outings, it will work for that also! memtb

Interesting. Looking forward to the pics.

This is very timely for me as we are considering the purchase of a 4 season trailer and a truck with which to pull it. We travel at least 6 months/year and have tried vacation homes, a nightmare, and are currently enjoying the simplicity of motels and a 4 Runner. I like the idea of spending a week or so up some remote forest service road w/ a warm, bearproof place to sleep and eat and relocating at will.

However, I have the mechanical acumen of a 3 year old lowland gorilla. I can repeatedly cross thread and strip lugnut bolts in broad daylight on a nice day. Should i restrict my self to tents and motels or go for the trailer life?


mike r

I have had a camper for 30 years of more use to use it to only hunt in still have my old little one. It does not need electric to run anything lights, heat, has no bathroom but I'm hunting don't care. Then I started doing traditional archery shoots using my camper more worked for years. I then decided I wanted a shower and stuff so 3 years ago bought a newer camper and then last year bought a brand new Winnebago micro minny the smallest one. I have hunted the last two years in my camper and have loved it but I have had electric hookup without electricity could be a pain. I can tell you there is no perfect camper there will be some things you like and dislike about all of them. I like my new one but it is not perfect by any means bathroom a little too small, seat cushions need better foam, and mattress kinda sucks. The floor plan is good but a little more room would be ok but comes with the cost of more weight. Widow

It is a bit eye opening when you start poking around them. I get they try to keep the weight down, but I’m pretty sure I could tear one apart in a couple hours with a lightweight ball peen hammer and a decent breeze. Lol.

If you are going to buy used.....

Take some coveralls, flashlight and your Makita when you look at it.
Crawl underneath.
If it has a "sealed bottom" I would unscrew that cover and look for water leaks, floor damage, mice etc.
In the bathroom, shower and kitchen sink area, look for soft spots.....you can "feel" it from inside in the linoleum.
Ceiling, roof and walls look for water stains.
Climb on top and see how the roof seal looks. Cracked roof spots in seams will leak.
Window leaks?
Check to see that every feature works.....everything.
Even latches. Does the oven pilot light and burner work?
Water pump?
Battery?
Lights?
Sewer tank empty? Is it clean?
(I looked at one once in the winter that had not been dumped and the poo was froze in there.)
Shower/tub base. Has it been leaking? Caulk still good?
Family unit?
Take your wife.....
If the unit is filthy or looks like they lived in it full time for a while, I'm out.
A woman will either say "this will work" or "if you buy this I won't stay in it".
Some units are incredibly filthy.......yet still for sale.
You know "those" people did not take care of their trailer.
Storage? You NEVER have too much storage.

If the roof has a a problem, you can put on an easy DIY rubber roof using EPDM Liquid Roof. It's a 2 part rubber that you mix and roll on with a paint roller. When it cures, it's the same thing as a rubber membrane. It will cover all small leaks including screw holes, cracks, etc. It's not cheap but it's much cheaper and easier than most alternatives.

Many older trailers used strip caulking around windows, doors, etc. That stuff has destroyed many campers because it leaks like crazy.

Lots of opinions here and rightly so! People have different budgets, needs, and expectations.

Here it goes...

Owning one is an experience unto itself. Takes time, $, and time away from whatever activity you are using it to enjoy. Maintenance, cleaning, storage, licensing, property tax, liability all figure into the mix. It can get to the point that the "tent" or the occasional night in the motel look pretty cheap.

How often can you enjoy it and for how long? I got to where I dreaded the hassle of taking it out, towing it for hundreds of miles, only to use it for two or three days just to have to drag it home and clean it. Extended trips and stays would make it much nicer. Where will you use it? Camping right off the highway would be "OK" with a large RV but I wouldn't personally want anything longer than 22' for off road in the mountains, etc.

Northwood, 4 season is a great recommendation! Like mobile homes, most RVs are not that robust in their construction (who wants to pull a Airstream everywhere they go?). Solid sides do much better in hailstorms (been there and done that!)

Scamps and Casitas are great if you are 6' or less and using it for shorter trips. Tow easy, easy to store in a garage, and have good resale values. Camping made very simple.

My latest "compromise" is a Jumping Jack Trailer; basically a 8'x12' pop-up canvas tent on a heavy duty utility trailer that you can put a car top boat, (2) 4-wheelers, or a smaller UTV on. It is easy to tow and take into tight, rougher places. It basically just has a nice table and two "full" trailer mattresses on bunks. It is simple, spartan, but comfortable UNLESS you need air conditioning! It is real easy to heat. I have a separate enclosure/system for hot showers. It would not work for everyone but it has worked well for me for hunting and fishing trips in the summer and fall. If my wife is along, the distance is way too far, or the season/weather is likely miserable then I choose the motel/hotel. I think mine cost me ~$2800 clean/lightly "used" w/ accessories and I have had it for ~10 years. New ones are 2 - 2 1/2 times that.

Good luck!!! No "perfect" RV.

"Living" out of one, say in retirement would be a whole different animal...

I am on my 4th. Lot's of good advice. My priorities are this.
1. toy hauler- so much easier to load unload and the flexibility to take whatever stuff you want. Summer can mean kayaks, hunting trips, can mean UTV, etc.
2. For off grid: a catalytic heater, I just repurposed the external propane line for an outside grill. I have both a solar panel and a generator. I much prefer the solar panel and it keeps my two batteries charged. Changed out my lights to LED and saves a bunch of battery power.

My current camper has 100 gal fresh water capacity, that will last a long time. Made it three weeks on one elk hunting trip. It also has a 26 gal gas tank. Nice for off grid and can keep you from running to town to refuel and hauling gas cans.

Mine has a microwave, which is fantastic when plugged in. But for hunting, I would much prefer an oven. For the life of me, I cannot figure out why they put four burners on the stove, two would be plenty. We do almost all of cooking outside anyway.

Looks at lots of campers. You will soon figure out what fits your needs and what does not.

That would be me ....40' motorhome that I've lived in for the past 4 years and I've had the wood stove for the past three years. The wood stove is a GREAT addition and is the only heat source I use... I'm gonna be downsizing from the motorhome to a smaller 5th wheel this spring when the weather gets a little warmer/dryer...I'll either be using a gooseneck adapter or mounting an Andersen hitch...I'm back in Sonora Ca. right now and doing a little work for my friends that own the RV/Boat storage yard so I get to look at a whole bunch of different RVs, hitch setups, floor plans, modifications etc....my plans right now are to pick up the cheapest aluminum framed 5th wheel I can find that has a slider and completely gut it (especially excess cabinetry)...put in a full size shower and full size, low volume porcelain flush toilet... and of course, another wood stove....

A 5th wheel would be nice but not practical for me. My pickup always has 1 of the following in the bed when we travel:
car top boat
UTV
stock rack and llamas during hunting season

We did the 26’ bumper pull with master and bunk beds for the kids. Hunted all over the Rockys with it. Family trips always meant atvs which was a problem because I could only put 1 in the bed of the tow vehicles we had (1/2 ton truck). Upgraded to a 34’ 5th wheel toyhauler and never looked batck. Ours had 3 queen beds and a fold out couch.....was perfect, and the master suite was perfect. It could haul a sxs or a mix of 3-5 atvs (small to large). Obviously, for that kind of GVW, a real tow vehicle is the starting point.

While bringing a generator is cheaper, an integral generator in the 5th wheel was a great addition. With a push of a button, I could fire it up without venturing outside. It ran off a 30 gallon fulel tank that also served as a fuel station for the ATVs.

I’d figure out what your real expectations for use are....and then step up a bit in size and extras—you’ll be better off in the long run. I’ve become a real fan of 5th wheels for the maneuverability and stability. Also, braking/mass are a huge factor in determining adequacy of your tow vehicle. OEM tow ratings aren’t a fair prediction of what you can safely brake in an emergency.

One of my gripes with all I’ve owned or used was the lack of real insulation. In cold weather, even running non-stop, the furnaces struggled. We learned for late season hunting in the Rockys, large supplemental propane canisters were essential to avoid freezing problems. Just my 0.02.

A few years ago, I went hunting with a friend who had a large trailer with slideouts. I slept on a fold down sofa in a slideout and like to have froze. It was in the teens outside. The cold soaked up through the bottom of the slideout. The next night we took a couple rugs put put down on the floor for insulation. It made a huge difference. This was supposed to be a 4 season camper but it was crap. He traded it off the next spring.

If it says "light weight" it really means CHEAP

When I was tearing the axels off one of mine it was tearing the frame at the hangers!!!

If you study rv’s, you quickly learn the manufactures are bigger liars than car salesmen. Today a 4-season camper, often means.....4 seasons in the Florida Keys. There are very few rv’s that can handle sub-zero temps very well. And even the best, will consume a lot of propane! I would not hesitate to use our RV in temperatures colder than -30 F.....and have done so. We lived through 2 Wyoming winters, while building a home. We slept warm, had nice hot showers, not bad at all. Yes, a quality, stick built home is much better than any RV for winter’s worst.....but there are campers that can make it a pretty pleasurable experience! I don’t recall it being mandatory, to be miserable while hunting! memtb

tag

With a wife and 2 kids you will want something around 24'-26'. Avoid slide-outs. And you don't need a 5th wheel. Buy a quality used trailer.

I had a 1958 18' Airstream single axle that I towed all over, from Baja to British Colombia. That would be pretty small for a family of 4. Now I have a 1967 24' Silver Streak dual axle that would be a good size for your purpose. Only paid $3500 for it. While no cherry on the outside, it is very nice inside and has 2" insulation. It's easy to tow and has plenty of room. If you buy something like that and later decide you'd like something different, you'd easily be able to get your money back. Net photo.