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If you have kids, don't even look at anything that doesn't have bunks or separate beds for them. Taking down/putting up tables and couches gets old pretty quickly.


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Originally Posted by iddave
Hello friend. I've spent a lot of time around campers and for what it's worth anything made by Northwood Manufacturing is probably going to make you happy.

They are one of they only manufacturers that makes their own frames, and are hell for stout. 4-season as well, which is nice for late-season hunting and winter camping should you so choose.

You'll pay a bit more for them, but they'll give you far less grief than most.

Best of luck.

Dave


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This, my 28' Nash 25C pull behind with single slide out pulls easily and very stable with my Dodge 2500.


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Originally Posted by KC

If you intend to use it at hunting camp then there are several items that you want to include.

The floor plan is real important. Study that carefully. You want it to be small enough that it's easy to pull and maneuver on dirt roads and at the same time big enough to accommodate four people in sleeping bags. I have a 17' Casita. It's too small. A 21' travel trailer with a slide out and two double beds would fit my uses better. The manufacturers say they are queen size beds but they are not really that big. But they're big enough.

You want it to be capable of operating off the grid for a week or so. So it should have two deep cycle batteries and LED lights. Buy a Honda generator.

You want it to operate in the cold so the piping and tanks must be inside the insulation shell. The furnace must be 100% propane. Mine has a small squirrel cage fan that will consume the battery in one night. So I have to use a Buddy Heater. You want a gravity flow furnace assisted by a tiny fan that's powered by a thermocouple in the furnace flame. The pipes and tanks of mine are not insulated so I have to winterize it and bring water in jugs to hunting camp.

You need a full set of monitor gauges. Water and battery are most important.

You need lots of cabinets for storage. You may have to add some and mount them on the walls yourself.

Don't bother with a microwave oven. They operate only on A/C power and that won't be available at camp. You can use that space better for a cabinet. If you need a microwave, get a portable unit and connect it to your generator.

Your pickup should have a topper to store extra stuff so you don't crowd the inside of the trailer. Don't get a fifth wheel. The hitch consumes the bed of your truck and it prevents you from having a topper. The salesman will say it's easy to remove the hitch but that's a load of crap. I know several people who have fifth wheels and they never remove the hitch. Their rigs are too big for camp and they spend all of their time in RV parks.

Avoid a TV. You go hunting to get away from that stuff.

Get a hitch lock and use it.

Remember that the tires should be inflated to 50 psi.

A trailer built in 2007 is really old. They don't last that long. Lots of things just deteriorate in time. I bought mine new in 2011 and it's time to replace it.




I pretty much agree with KC on all of this. The above is a pretty good analysis.

I have a travel trailer that I use for exactly as you intend. I do take it hunting whenever the place I'm going allows it. They are great for antelope hunts or other hunts where you have a reasonable place to park them. Like KC mentions, though, mine is not a 4 season so I winterize mine and then use water jugs like he does for cold weather hunts. A true four season one where you don't have to do that would be very nice but you're going to pay quite a bit more for those.

I would add a couple things:
1. Make sure it has sleeping accomodations for all the people you intend to take. A lot of these campers cannot sleep more than 2-3 people comfortably and with a family, that turns into a true pain.
2. Inspect the roof (usually rubber) before you buy and then be sure to cover the roof when storing it.
3. Inspect the tires and make sure they look good with no uneven wear.
4. Get a generator since you'll need that to charge the battery if you're boondocking it. The alternative is to get a solar panel set up. A lot of the newer campers are coming with this sort of arrangement. Not sure how well they do for charging the battery, but it sounds good.
5. I've avoided slide outs because I've heard of too many people having problems getting them to actually slide out or slide back in. I'd rather not have to fight that battle, especially when I'm hunting or the weather sucks. They add a lot more weight to the trailer as well.

Good luck!

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We too have a 26’ toyhauler that is convenient and can haul ATV, coolers and lots of gear. Now, I am getting on in age and am looking at smaller trailers. My 2009 Puma Unleashed toyhauler is up for sale. Asking $14,500 in great condition. Lots of upgrades and more. MTG


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One thing I have is a $90 Harbor Frieght 2 cycle generator, about 800 watts.I only use it to charge the battery during the day. I use a std truck battery ,850CCA.The marine batteries cannot be fast charged.

I changed all the lighting to LED's ( cheap from Amazon).

The battery will last about 3 days using the fan blower in the heater a few time sat night and in the AM to take the chill off in 2nd rifle season.As mentioned, I take water jugs when it is expected to freeze.

My camper is a little pop up slide in so a bigger one will take a bit more.

Campers are like tents.When they say it will sleep 6 ,figure 4 and that is if everyone is real friendly.Check the mattresses to make sure they are not just a 4" piece of foam.

Concerning generators.The Hondas( 2KW) will be quieter, but they all make noise that is a nuisance to fellow campers. The most aggravating thing to me is to get out in an area thinking I will have peace and quite and enjoy the wilds and have some yahoo pull in and fire up a generator that he keeps running 24/7

Last edited by saddlesore; 02/01/19.

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I tied into the gas line at the stove and ran a line over to a cupboard door with a valve at the end. Then I bought a 10' hose with the appropriate fittings and got me one a them freestanding catalytic heaters I could move around the trailer. It would run all day and night, use no power. I just cracked a few windows so I didn't wake up dead and man was that the sheit. Go out hunting all day, come back to a warm trailer and a FULL BATTERY! Used no power to stay warm, it was the only way to go.


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Somebody from the 'fire was going to put a wood stove in his camper, can't remember who. It was about a year ago. Wonder if it worked out.

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Originally Posted by Fireball2
I tied into the gas line at the stove and ran a line over to a cupboard door with a valve at the end. Then I bought a 10' hose with the appropriate fittings and got me one a them freestanding catalytic heaters I could move around the trailer. It would run all day and night, use no power. I just cracked a few windows so I didn't wake up dead and man was that the sheit. Go out hunting all day, come back to a warm trailer and a FULL BATTERY! Used no power to stay warm, it was the only way to go.


I did the exact same thing. Those Olympian catalytic heaters work very well and you don't need to worry about running the battery down. I was going to tie into the stove as well, but found that on the underside of the camper, there was a T-fitting on the gas line with one end that was capped. Just attached my hose to that, drilled a hole through the floor, fed the line in, and then sealed it with expanding foam. Turned out to be a lot easier than I thought it would be.

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Just starting building one out of an 8' Ford bed that came off of a 1991. Don't think I need to do anything crazy with suspension besides new shocks. Haven't decided yet whether to go with a hard top or a soft topper. Probably going to go with a hard top camper shell. I'm in no rush. Work on it here and there but will take and share pics when it's done. Should be a nice little beach/camp crasher when it's done.

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I have had several bumper pulls. Tore the axels off of one 4 times. They are not mean to be pulled down dirt roads. Anything new will need the suspension replaced in 10,000 miles with the good stuff. All wheel bearings are made in china, Replace them with Timken. If it is not a true 4 season water lines will freeze and it will leak like a sieve. Every year I am some where and see someone with a slide out that will not retract. I did tell you I pull a 21 footer 10,000 every year for the past 3 years. We often get together and laugh about what POS all makes are!


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I can give an opinion that works for us, but most will disagree! A Teton Homes, fifth wheel, very heavy ( ours weights 20 K pounds ready to go) 36 to 40 feet, will require a HD Diesel ( preferably a dually) to tow, extreme quality, fairly large tank capacities, dual pane windows, one of the heaviest, most massive frames in industry, as at home at -20 F as it is at 100+ F. We spend 3 weeks or more, boondocking every fall, while hunting....often seeing single digit temperatures, while enjoying warm showers and creature comforts. Very few 4 star motel/hotels have nicer woodwork or furnishings. The major drawback, the company folded in 2007, about the same time most of the high end rv’s went under....due to the crashing economy. Another potential problem, is that, it was designed for two people. However, a quality “hide a bed” can make it very comfortable for additional folks. If one is very careful, learns much about RV construction/quality....there are a few of these out there at good prices.

No.....you can’t bring it down a tree lined 2-track road, though we have had ours several miles off-road, provided you’ve got wide turns and 14 feet of overhead clearance! We’ve lived with the elk in total comfort for weeks at a time! And.....if the family wants a nice vacation RV for family outings, it will work for that also! memtb


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Originally Posted by Beansnbacon33
Just starting building one out of an 8' Ford bed that came off of a 1991. Don't think I need to do anything crazy with suspension besides new shocks. Haven't decided yet whether to go with a hard top or a soft topper. Probably going to go with a hard top camper shell. I'm in no rush. Work on it here and there but will take and share pics when it's done. Should be a nice little beach/camp crasher when it's done.


Interesting. Looking forward to the pics.


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This is very timely for me as we are considering the purchase of a 4 season trailer and a truck with which to pull it. We travel at least 6 months/year and have tried vacation homes, a nightmare, and are currently enjoying the simplicity of motels and a 4 Runner. I like the idea of spending a week or so up some remote forest service road w/ a warm, bearproof place to sleep and eat and relocating at will.

However, I have the mechanical acumen of a 3 year old lowland gorilla. I can repeatedly cross thread and strip lugnut bolts in broad daylight on a nice day. Should i restrict my self to tents and motels or go for the trailer life?


mike r


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I have had a camper for 30 years of more use to use it to only hunt in still have my old little one. It does not need electric to run anything lights, heat, has no bathroom but I'm hunting don't care. Then I started doing traditional archery shoots using my camper more worked for years. I then decided I wanted a shower and stuff so 3 years ago bought a newer camper and then last year bought a brand new Winnebago micro minny the smallest one. I have hunted the last two years in my camper and have loved it but I have had electric hookup without electricity could be a pain. I can tell you there is no perfect camper there will be some things you like and dislike about all of them. I like my new one but it is not perfect by any means bathroom a little too small, seat cushions need better foam, and mattress kinda sucks. The floor plan is good but a little more room would be ok but comes with the cost of more weight. Widow

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Originally Posted by Reba
I have had several bumper pulls. Tore the axels off of one 4 times. They are not mean to be pulled down dirt roads. Anything new will need the suspension replaced in 10,000 miles with the good stuff. All wheel bearings are made in china, Replace them with Timken. If it is not a true 4 season water lines will freeze and it will leak like a sieve. Every year I am some where and see someone with a slide out that will not retract. I did tell you I pull a 21 footer 10,000 every year for the past 3 years. We often get together and laugh about what POS all makes are!



It is a bit eye opening when you start poking around them. I get they try to keep the weight down, but I’m pretty sure I could tear one apart in a couple hours with a lightweight ball peen hammer and a decent breeze. Lol.


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If you are going to buy used.....

Take some coveralls, flashlight and your Makita when you look at it.
Crawl underneath.
If it has a "sealed bottom" I would unscrew that cover and look for water leaks, floor damage, mice etc.
In the bathroom, shower and kitchen sink area, look for soft spots.....you can "feel" it from inside in the linoleum.
Ceiling, roof and walls look for water stains.
Climb on top and see how the roof seal looks. Cracked roof spots in seams will leak.
Window leaks?
Check to see that every feature works.....everything.
Even latches. Does the oven pilot light and burner work?
Water pump?
Battery?
Lights?
Sewer tank empty? Is it clean?
(I looked at one once in the winter that had not been dumped and the poo was froze in there.)
Shower/tub base. Has it been leaking? Caulk still good?
Family unit?
Take your wife.....
If the unit is filthy or looks like they lived in it full time for a while, I'm out.
A woman will either say "this will work" or "if you buy this I won't stay in it".
Some units are incredibly filthy.......yet still for sale.
You know "those" people did not take care of their trailer.
Storage? You NEVER have too much storage.


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If the roof has a a problem, you can put on an easy DIY rubber roof using EPDM Liquid Roof. It's a 2 part rubber that you mix and roll on with a paint roller. When it cures, it's the same thing as a rubber membrane. It will cover all small leaks including screw holes, cracks, etc. It's not cheap but it's much cheaper and easier than most alternatives.

Many older trailers used strip caulking around windows, doors, etc. That stuff has destroyed many campers because it leaks like crazy.


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Lots of opinions here and rightly so! People have different budgets, needs, and expectations.

Here it goes...

Owning one is an experience unto itself. Takes time, $, and time away from whatever activity you are using it to enjoy. Maintenance, cleaning, storage, licensing, property tax, liability all figure into the mix. It can get to the point that the "tent" or the occasional night in the motel look pretty cheap.

How often can you enjoy it and for how long? I got to where I dreaded the hassle of taking it out, towing it for hundreds of miles, only to use it for two or three days just to have to drag it home and clean it. Extended trips and stays would make it much nicer. Where will you use it? Camping right off the highway would be "OK" with a large RV but I wouldn't personally want anything longer than 22' for off road in the mountains, etc.

Northwood, 4 season is a great recommendation! Like mobile homes, most RVs are not that robust in their construction (who wants to pull a Airstream everywhere they go?). Solid sides do much better in hailstorms (been there and done that!)

Scamps and Casitas are great if you are 6' or less and using it for shorter trips. Tow easy, easy to store in a garage, and have good resale values. Camping made very simple.

My latest "compromise" is a Jumping Jack Trailer; basically a 8'x12' pop-up canvas tent on a heavy duty utility trailer that you can put a car top boat, (2) 4-wheelers, or a smaller UTV on. It is easy to tow and take into tight, rougher places. It basically just has a nice table and two "full" trailer mattresses on bunks. It is simple, spartan, but comfortable UNLESS you need air conditioning! It is real easy to heat. I have a separate enclosure/system for hot showers. It would not work for everyone but it has worked well for me for hunting and fishing trips in the summer and fall. If my wife is along, the distance is way too far, or the season/weather is likely miserable then I choose the motel/hotel. I think mine cost me ~$2800 clean/lightly "used" w/ accessories and I have had it for ~10 years. New ones are 2 - 2 1/2 times that.

Good luck!!! No "perfect" RV.

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"Living" out of one, say in retirement would be a whole different animal...

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I am on my 4th. Lot's of good advice. My priorities are this.
1. toy hauler- so much easier to load unload and the flexibility to take whatever stuff you want. Summer can mean kayaks, hunting trips, can mean UTV, etc.
2. For off grid: a catalytic heater, I just repurposed the external propane line for an outside grill. I have both a solar panel and a generator. I much prefer the solar panel and it keeps my two batteries charged. Changed out my lights to LED and saves a bunch of battery power.

My current camper has 100 gal fresh water capacity, that will last a long time. Made it three weeks on one elk hunting trip. It also has a 26 gal gas tank. Nice for off grid and can keep you from running to town to refuel and hauling gas cans.

Mine has a microwave, which is fantastic when plugged in. But for hunting, I would much prefer an oven. For the life of me, I cannot figure out why they put four burners on the stove, two would be plenty. We do almost all of cooking outside anyway.

Looks at lots of campers. You will soon figure out what fits your needs and what does not.


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