so I want to build a carport coming out from my garage that is about 24 feet long.

Its going to be a simple A frame type setup where I use 4X4s for support. But I don't want any support posts in the middle, I want 23 feet or so of unobstructed width so in order to do that I need to join 3 8ft (or some combination) of 4X4 posts on each side that can support the 2X6 trusses and the roof which will be shingled. I was thinking some kind of metal bracket with 4 or 8 holes that I could put on each side and run 6 inch galvanized bolts thru it for support.

I've searched google and I guess I'm not looking for the right terminology because I can't find anything.

Here is a crude drawing of what I have in mind

You need a Gluelam or an LVL.

Order the proper engineered length and width yo need.

If this is the side wall top, put a post under the joint and a Simpson tie “T” at the joint attached to the post.

ok, cool
Menards has a 24' beam for $419. I would need two of them of course

but that would work quite well

good god, I can't imagine what that weighs

actually I guess I would only need one - I can use supports in the back - that makes its more affordable

I doubt your coupling will work. To run 24 feet you will need a steel or a specialty laminated beams to support the roof. Especially considering the roof weight and snow load you could be dealing with. I think your proposed coupling will allow sagging and/or buckling once the roof is installed and the holes you drill for the couplings will introduce weakness that will fail under the downward stress induced by load over the length of the coupled beams. A post at each junction will work, but you don't or cant use that design in your application.

You could do it that way, but I wouldn't. If you're not going to use or don't want posts at the joints, use a gluelam or header that is rated for the span.

Much better choice.

Rent a duct jack

I hung a dozen 24ftrs with one, piece of cake!

I got one for about $50 a day

I used 16" lams, they have a sag of about 1/8" at 24ft

4 yrs ago they were $9 per foot

Yep,all good choices,lvl+duct lift. or steel I beam.
Not an engineer,but dont think plates+ bolts would last/hold up

ok good to know - sounds like I'm on the right path here now

You could save money building a torsion box beam...

Go to a local truss builder. They need to know the roof pitch, snow load, etc to get you the appropriate beam. They’ll put the info into the computer and spit out the correct info. Redneck engineering is a quick way to get killed when the roof collapses. I put a 12’ double slider in my house. I think I remember it was a 5.5 x 12 x 14’ and only had a 1/4” deflection on a 4/12 pitch roof.

LVL beam, or better yet, trusses.

You could scab them together with some pieces of 3 X 1/2" aluminum plate on each side with some 1/2" bolts going through. But I don't know if you could get away with 23' with no support posts.

Stuff tends to sag over time.

w/o reading all of it.........

Glue Lam beam is what you need

do it right the first time

Somebody needs to get a clue on construction.....

LOL.

That sounds like a tall order to me. You may need 2x10s on edge of course. There are charts that would show what you need.

This. Many builder supply centers also have someone trained to do this on a computer. It will be made for allowable building stresses and deflections. Might have to screw more than one laminated board together but they will walk you thru that too. I just ran a ridge beam 26 feet in a vaulted ceiling. That sumbitch prolly weighed 400 pounds or more. No way around the weight when you span that long.

I have a friend in the business at Lumber 84. I'll give him a call this week and see what he says

thats what I'm trying to do

One thing about advice on the 'fire, you will always get some. Useful?, if you know what to believe.

Very helpful.....NOT!

Beam depth is your friend when making long spans. The picture you posted would need a post underneath! You can block under it and use restraining ( tension ) rods, These take heavy metal mounts at the ends, and need turn buckles lift the beam! And you need two rods per beam.

I think I'm on the right path with the suggestions earlier. I've been working out how to do it with the gluelam

All glue lam's are crownded, just make sure the crown is up!

You don’t have to be smart enough to know everything. Just smart enough to know where to find the answer. Work with your local truss or builder’s supply center. Their service is free (at least around here it is) to properly size the materials. And they also are in tune with local building codes. And maybe you need a building permit??? I’m not saying to go get a permit. Heck I’ve done some low profile home construction that I know needs a permit but something this big might not go undetected by your municipality. And the only thing more embarrassing than getting caught without a permit is having to tear it down and starting all over again because it violates code.

Yep

I recently had a 20' clear span garage door header with roof load only, 24' width. Our code is based on 40psf live load/ 10psf dead load. It required a 3 ply 16" LVL. Sounds like your beam will be exposed go the elements so I'd use a pressure treated glulam.
As stated above, most glulams have camber built in so make sure it's set appropriately. Also, in my area, there's a lot of design requirements to deal with uplift, especially when it's an open sided structure like yours. How its fastened to the supporting posts and how they're fastened to the footing can be just as important as the downforce.

ok, I'm gonna drop by and check in on the permit this week

wife got some video of me starting the project

https://i.imgur.com/SZrnS1a.mp4

Lol, I'm glad to see your getting started and things are going well................Always good when no one dies........

Used "I" beams for our 24' carport, bolted to 6X6's, been 15 years or so now with no issues.
Feels weird on the occasion I've been on the roof as it has a little bit of sway to it.

I haven't had a chance to get down to 84 Lumber and talk to my friend, will probably have to wait until the weekend.

Bet that hurt.

Youre wasting money on glu lam on your application . Are you not setting a post every 8’ (10’ max) down the load side? If so, a double 2x10 would be fine here. A double 2x12 may be needed at your location though. To clear span the other way (width direction) , use manufactured roof trusses exactly how the drawing states .c. Spacing , bracing ,and dont forget “hold downs”. Simpson strong tie makes some and they are required by code with roof trusses.

DAMN,.... If your gonna be stupid you better be tough....

agree, here

Please tell me you are just joking, here man.!!!!