Our power company requires me to use a 200 amp rated meter socket since I am running my new service under ground. I don't need a 200 amp panel however as the cabin is only 24x32. Can I install a 100 amp panel?

Thanks

Yes you can, but I don’t think you really want to. There will be minimal savings. Set a 200 amp panel with 42 spaces. You’ll be happy you did.

Yes, it may surprise you the number of outlets you will want.

78CJ,
Yes. Most current residential meter enclosures are rated at 200 amp. This allows for one overhead enclosure and one underground enclosure to cover most applications. Just make sure 100 amp panel has correctly sized supply and grounding provided.
Scott

200 amp underground is the minimal underground feed, the reason for a 200 amp meter fitting. You can safely install a 100 amp panel and install a 20 or 30 space panel. Or just go with the 200 amp panel with 42 spaces.

Can you install a 100 amp panel, Yes. Would I install a 100 with 200 service. No. Expansion off the Breaker panel is never a bad thing. Besides I think it’s probably only about 30 bucks difference between the 2.

I decided to go with the 100 amp panel as this is just a rural cabin. It has 20 spaces and I currently have six circuits that will use a total of 7 spaces.

I agree with the others about installing a 200A panel. You never know what you'll need down the road. You might find you want electric heat or a/c. Do it big the 1st time.

24x32?

A huge panel for essentially a modern sized livingroom?

Thats kind of where I was going with it, I really don't want to see the 100 amp panel. We really didn't want power whatsoever but made the decision about a month ago.

What size wire do I run from the Meter socket to the panel? I was planning on 4/0

A couple plug ins and a place to sit your Aladdin lamp and you should be good to go!

Is your main disconnect at the meter or the panel?

The panel

Cool cabin, never seen siding like that. 👍

I hope your insurance company does not find out... willfully violating codes (for almost no savings) is not a good move. Checking the internet for code questions and answers shows you have no background to base your decisions on. No insult intended, but you should rethink your move...

It is true that if the OP will never use over the seven outlets, 100 amps is plenty. If it were me, I'd go 200. I wish we had 200 amps both in
Iowa, and Ontario.
Resale is something to think about.

Yep, plus the fact you can get 200 amp 8 space 16 circuit load centers.

I'd rather heat our North place with wood all the time, for just a bit of heat, or when you are away for a while, electric baseboard heaters are nice. Ours take ten spaces on the panel.

Are you feeding a well pump, clothes dryer, oven or microwave? Consider your potential load now.

Super nice cabin! Enjoy it for years!

It cost me $57.00 to go from 100 to 200 amp when I put my panel in at the island shed! To for the money it was a great up grade.

Back in 1983 we converted the 16 X 32 foot concrete block milk barn on the 100 acres we had just bought into a "temporary" house to live in while we built our permanent home. 30-something years and three remodels later, that original building is the living room and kitchen of a 3000 square foot, 2-story, 4-bedroom house. The 200 amp panel we installed back then is completely full now.
Jerry

So what codes would he violate? Service comes in, goes through a 100 amp main, main and panel and circuits not overloaded is the assumption on that. I can see putting a 200 amp main on a 100 amp meter loop, but the other way around...the 100 on 200 gives the ability to add another sub panel later on also.

Personally I'd have put the 200 amp panel with a lot of spaces in also. Not enough dollar wise to matter, and I have 2 places with issues right now because they did not go big to start with and will likely have to rebuild the entire meter loops on the poles to get it sorted out.

Why ask if the power company requires a 200 amp rated meter socket?

One reason to ask, company will likely refuse to connect to anything less if its their policy. Not code. Policy.

Some company's refuse anything less than 200 amp and 3/0 wire, which is nuts for an outbuilding or such... though such should or could be served by sub panel, but what if you own property and all you want there is a storage shed or such.

In the end though, having more access is generally better, saves headacehs later down the line usually.

It doesn't look big now, but wait until the grandkids start coming for visits. How about resale to someone who wants to add on? That cabin would be easy to expand. For another $50 to 100, a major part of the addition is already in place.

Schit.

Hes gonna have to take a window out to fit the panel!

What code am I violating?

Wood heat is great - until you bugger your back and can't lift a 10lb piece of wood. Then electric sounds pretty darn good. At least have the wiring in place in case you need it later. It might be the difference in whether you can use the cabin in cold weather or not.

Ask the electric company what the code is.

The electrical question has been answered. So I'm gonna simply add that I hope you put an overhang over the front deck. Very nice cabin !

I'll guess the wiring will get done, and that is a nice place, enjoy it for a long time.

By the way, where is it?

None that I am aware of. You are just paying for a 200 amp service and only utilizing 50%.

You are correct. Question is answered and the panel is in.

And yes, the framing for the porch roof is stacked and stickered and will have to wait for next year.

The only things in that building that did not come from the property are the footings, foundation, wall sheathing, roof sheathing and trusses.

Windows are used, porch is all cedar as well as the siding. I paid $10 for both doors. Low budget getaway.

Woodstove is a 1980 Fisher that is rated for 2700 SFT.

No well or septic at this point. Footings are sitting on solid limestone about 18" below ground. Average well would run me somewhere in the 14-18K range.

I found that it was cheaper to buy a 200 amp main than a 125 or a 150. I don't need a 200, but I got one.

The tip of the Mitt

Get the 200, not much difference in price!

The only difference in a 100 and a 200 amp panel is the main breaker. Generally the higher the amperage of the main breaker the more circuits will be available on the buss bars. Just cause you got them doesn't mean you have to use them.

Yep, a beautiful cabin, in a very nice area. I would have gotten the 200 amp meter panel, do it once and not again. Don't know about the codes, they are regional. Bigger without a bunch more money is always better.

What is near the cabin, timber, lakes, what type road to it? Fish, and game? Wildlife you to look at? Nearest town?

This won't be a year round place, mainly deer season. It's basically a glorified deer blind.

I put a 200 amp panel in my house when I built in 2005. It is full, I am fully aware of the need in certain circumstances but this cabin isn't one of them.

Some deer blind.

It sits on 40 acres right of a gravel road.

Who knows, it might wind up being an expanded retirement home. It would be something I would consider.

I hear what you are saying but that is counter to what its purpose is. It is literally 6 minutes from our home. As far as resale, that will be someone else's problem.

Don't let a bunch of old rednecks tell you how to enjoy your place.

...and possibly the size of the wire from the meter base to the panel.

Any inside pictures?

No, just stud walls, hence the wiring.

I know, it was a rhetorical question. I am not sure why Sitka would chime in about me not knowing what I am doing when he doesn't know what he is talking about..

Nice cabin, did you build it?

Yes

Good job, I hope hunting is good for you!

Nice place. Did you cut the siding yourself?

I was wondering about that as well.

I have a sawyer with a portable mill that has done all of my sawing. We built a three point mount for a 9000# Ramsey PTO winch that we use to skid logs out. Once I have what I need I call up the sawyer and we spend the day milling logs. Joists, studs, beam, sub-floor, front porch, siding and all of the tongue and groove for the inside came from the property. Flooring will be ash that came from behind our primary residence.

Yep, small panel is all that place needs.

Started out by clearing the lot. Rented an excavator for a weekend and dug the hole. Formed and poured the footings. My neighbor laid the block.

Very cool! Thanks

First quickie point is NEC stating all work will be done in a workman-like way. Hooking the 200Amp line (policy of electrical company ) to a 100Amp panel would not likely pass Electrical Inspectors. The line is protected by the upstream breakers and they do not protect the box which is sized for half the amps.

Interesting... I have stated my electrical background more than once on this site...

Not interested in a pissing match, but panels are readily available in many, many configurations. Sizing them appropriately is basic...

Do you need a bigger shovel? Your batting about a zero...

I'm not sure about Michigan state law, but in Louisiana, you have to put in a 200 amp drop, but only an all electric house by law is required to have a 200 amp main. On the house I'm remodeling, I have gas heat, stove, and hot water heater, so I didn't need a 200 amp main. I could have used a 125 amp main and been plenty safe, but the 24/48 circuit breaker box with a 125 or 150 amp mains cost more than the same circuit breaker box with a 200 amp main. So although I dont need it, I got a 200 amp main.

You are beating a dead horse here guy. I have already stated that matching the same size panel as the 100 amp rated @200 amps was the way I would go with 200 amp service. It’s not what he chose to do. If the power company won’t install the meter then so be it. If the system hasn’t been inspected for proper local codes then so be it. If he has a fire and the insurance company won’t pay because he undersized the panel so be it. His decision. But I still can’t find in the NEC or NFPA where he can’t. His gamble not yours.

How would I know your electrical background? I certainly don't follow you around on here.

I asked a simple question. And got the answer.

This was my original question, I asked this because I was planning to install the panel and was second guessing the conversation I had with the POCO. I did not want to wait, nor bug anyone during a holiday weekend.

I have no idea why we are talking about permits or insurance? Why automatically assume I didn't apply for a permit. And insurance? That's a long way off if at all.

Just doin' what he does best. He knows more about everything than anybody. Don't believe me ? Just ask him.

Your butthurt is showing again... you have a long history of being unable to advance a single argument and want to attack me instead, again. Have you ever considered knowing something before responding?

This was my original question, I asked this because I was planning to install the panel and was second guessing the conversation I had with the POCO. I did not want to wait, nor bug anyone during a holiday weekend.

I have no idea why we are talking about permits or insurance? Why automatically assume I didn't apply for a permit. And insurance? That's a long way off if at all.


[/quote]
Did I say anything about permits?

Insurance was mentioned for a simple, clearly defined reason.

And neither do you, obviously, have the background to give any electrical advice, when he is not violating any codes, or subjecting himself to a denial in an insurance claim down the road.

What's not "workman-like" by putting a 100A panel on a 200A service?

Why not? It's fully protected, and not oversized.


You don't have a clue what you are talking about, and this statement of yours proves it.

1 - There is NO breaker upstream that protects the line (your word, and not correct industry terminology) to the meter loop. It's not a line. It's called a service drop.

2 - The power company has nothing to do with or places ANYTHING in their electrical service drops to protect the box (again- YOUR non-industry WORD). It's called a breaker panel (load center), not a box.

3 - ALL PROTECTION is downstream from the meter loop.

4 - The ONLY protection UPSTREAM is ahead of the transformer where the transformer taps come off the high voltage lines. Those are called drop out fuses by the way.

Why don't you take off your Santa Claus electrical suit before you cause somebody to burn their house down or get someone killed.

This was my original question, I asked this because I was planning to install the panel and was second guessing the conversation I had with the POCO. I did not want to wait, nor bug anyone during a holiday weekend.

I have no idea why we are talking about permits or insurance? Why automatically assume I didn't apply for a permit. And insurance? That's a long way off if at all.


[/quote]
Did I say anything about permits?

Insurance was mentioned for a simple, clearly defined reason.[/quote]



How am I going to "willfully violate codes" without ignoring a permit?

Good explanation ElkSlayer.

Could you point us to the “basic” NEC article that shows how to size a breaker panel to the meter loop amperage?

Maybe I missed something a loooooong time ago? /sarcasm

No, not 4/0.

You meant #4. And get the #4 in THHN, not THHW.

No, you can't get an extra 100A by adding a sub-panel on a 100A Main breaker panel. You're limited by the 100A Main breaker in the first breaker panel fed off the meter can.

200A Meter can
^
^
100A Main Breaker Panel
^
^
100A Sub-Panel

Thanks for the helpful post rather than attacking my use of incorrect terminology and my obvious lack of expertise that may lead to ultimate death and destruction!

I didn't attack you, I said "He knows more about everything than anybody."

I'd say ElkSlayer91 has pretty much shown that not to be the case .

78CJ-- Use #4 if you're using copper wire from the meter to the panel, use #2 if you're using aluminum. This is for a 100 amp main. Also the ground wire from the meter base to the ground rod needs to be a minimum of #8 if copper or #6 if aluminum' (it can be insulated or bare) and be sure to buy a ground clamp and ground rod (3/4" rod 8' long).

Added: Do you have to install you meter base and weatherhead or does the electric company do this for you? If you have to do it, you'll probably need 2/0 for the tie-in to the wires coming from the transformer. If over head, be sure to leave at least 3' lead coming out of the weatherhead on all three wires for the power company to connect to.

I ran #4 copper from the meter socket to the panel. Ran #6 copper to the grounds. Inspector just left. Everything looks great. Now on to interior tongue and groove....

Good enough, care to tell me about the tongue, and groove? We have done some in black ash, what are you using?
I hope you have a air finish nailer to save a lot of work, and time.