Preferably a southern buyer or a northern farmer who doesn't use his stuff when it's 20F or colder.


Make you a helluva deal.

What ya got Sam?

How bad is it stuck?

Sam's Yuppie tractor is on the fritz again......I assume.

I need one, but it would have to be practically a freebie! My Massey-Ferguson 180 was worn out when I bought it 20 years ago and it's just about beyond help by now!
Jerry

Oldman, a JD 6430 Premium(w/IVT) and a basically like new 673 SL loader.

3982 hours.



(complete with fancy electronic rear SCV's that don't work right when it gets 'cold')
(I was bitching about it last winter.....)

Oh.... that's way more tractor than I need. Good luck with a sale.

There's a JD 4840 with cab down here for sale, good looking tractor, but I dont know anything about it;

I told you to buy a loader Sam...Kids nowadays.

I had a 6430. It was a good tractor. Traded for a 6125R and it's a lemon. Fortunately our local dealers service department has went above and beyond to try and resolve the problems. It was in the shop again last week. If it would have been the first John Deere tractor I bought it would have been the last

Fellow I know quit buying CaseIH tractors quite recently. Like within the last 10 years.

He got started with a 1066 IH, then got into the 88 series.


Bought a CaseIH new in 2009 or so.



They painted the whole tractor before they attached any wiring. None of the grounds were paint free.


Intermittent electrical nightmare.

Oldman, it's just a little guy, really good A/C!



Richard, we need a PTO and SCV's!




Saskfox, I've heard the R series can be fussy with the electronic/computer chit.

Was your 6430 a Premium or the standard version?

What issues with the 6125R?


I would like to find a low houred 6410 or 6110M.

I can't say all, but I hear most new farm machines have a LOT of electric hootananys that give a lot of grief.

Don't you need a nice rake tractor?

Sorry to hear about your problems with the 6430. Is it the engine not starting in the cold or the IVT or both? Speaking of oil, I plan to go to Rotella T6 5w40 next change on my Kubota. Have started it down to about 15 with T4 dino 15w40 but not many times. Just when I need to blade snow.

My old JD 4430 didn't like the cold. Had to be plugged in lower than about 35 and sometimes needed a shot of ether. I don't like to do that but it had a built in system to inject ether.

Sam, seems like there ought to be something you could do.

Maybe a heater under the whole PTO area to keep that oil warm?

Other than that, that tractor would bring some good money down here, and the PTO SCV issue would be moot.

Dead serious Sam, you need both an industrial loader, and, a tractor for the work.

6430 premium. A salesman from the dealership bought it. That was 6 years ago and he has had no problems with it. The 6125 wouldn't start. At +15 F in a shed it wouldn't start. At -30 F in a shed plugged in it may or may not start. It's a common problem with the 6 series. Put a heavier cable from the battery to the starter helped. Had the glow plugs on a manual switch that didn't make any difference. Apparently John Deere is aware of the problems but can't change/fix them because of emissions. It rides rough as hell. It's got cab suspension and the fancy front axle. What hydraulic issues are you having Sam?

A magnetic heater would stick magnetically to where you need some heat.

??

https://katsblockheater.com/block-heaters/all/magnetic-heater-by-kats-1160

Heat output 300-400 degrees F.

Barry, I wanted to try using a low viscosity hydraulic oil but given the transmission you can't.

Talked to the head JD mechanic last Friday and he basically admitted that it was a poor design(the SCV's) for chilly temps or colder.

I was trying to rig up a heat tape idea last winter but it would be a daily pain in the ass not to mention the slight chance of burning up the machine.





Richard, a front end loader would be nice for sure.

But it's really only good for loader work. We like to be able to use a machine for more than one thing. Always pulling something when not loading.

A loader can't pull a baler, mixer wagon, bale processor, ditcher, diker, mower, etc.. That and no 3-point.

Nice to have a backup tractor as well. A loader can't pull a baler, mixer wagon, bale processor, ditcher, mower, diker, etc..

The yuppie tractor in question has a loader which we used one time. It's been off the tractor ever since. The previous owner didn't use it either.

You are hard to please Sam.

I thought of that but there is no where to attach it to the oil pan. The block heater brings the engine temperature up adequately. I use 0-40 oil. The starter doesn't turn it over fast enough is a big part of the problem. Even with a fully charged battery and another vehicle boosting it or a battery charger on boost it doesn't increase the cranking speed.

Sask, I switched to 0w-40 JD synthetic and that improved the cold starting of the 6430. It lives outside and gets plugged in, -30F might be pushing the limits of a sure start without jumper cables.

+15F and not plugged in and it will start easy. But if it's +15F or colder the hydraulic lines will pop out of the fancy connectors. All 6 popped out this morning, multiple times. When the oil gets to moving they will generally keeping working. Zero issues when it's warm out.

When it's below 0F the electronic valves won't even function. Just did an entire filter and fluid change on it yesterday afternoon. Fancy JD oil, might be worse than it was before....

The tractor has a hydraulic heater but of course that heat never reaches the outputs.

I thought of that but there is no where to attach it to the oil pan. The block heater brings the engine temperature up adequately. I use 0-40 oil. The starter doesn't turn it over fast enough is a big part of the problem. Even with a fully charged battery and another vehicle boosting it or a battery charger on boost it doesn't increase the cranking speed.

You might want to check with Bristo.. He might have a need for it on his Cane Plantation.

No water emulsified in that hydraulic oil, Sam?

Had to change mine out last year because of that.

Charlie, it would be the perfect size.


It's only around 100hp(PTO), little 4 cylinder.

My 6430 was a good starter. 0 F in a shed it would start no problem. I'll PM you with a guy that might be able to solve your hydraulic problems.

Sask, thanks man.


You had the electronic valves, with quick connect couplers and didn't have any issues?


JD mechanic said they could try calibrating the valves(pressure?) and see if that helped.




Barry, no water, nice clear fluid.

Same as yours. No problems. Could be a calibration issue.

dont know if its really a good idea , but i will add a couple of gallons e10 gas to my loader tractor hydraulic oil when winter sets in


gas thins the oil to let it flow easier.....the alcohol helps to neutralize any moisture present

SD, what make tractor?


The transmission and hydraulic system of this particular tractor share the same tank.

The transmission is 'fancy' and can't have any thin fluid or it might break.


The red tractors with CVT have separate reservoirs.

I have a couple of Kats magnetic heaters. Two of them on a 4020 diesel sitting outside will not get it started when it is below zero. Just not enough watts there.

But if you drape the whole front of the tractor in a blue tarp, and put a 1500 watt ceramic space heater under the engine overnight, then she will start.

Do not know what to do about the hydraulics issues on Sam's tractors. The newest thing I have ever worked with is over forty years old now. A hydrostat tranny is pretty high tech in my family.

What kind of tractor? Not trying to be rude but it doesn't sound like a good idea.

mine is a new holland '97 model , and yeah it has a common tranny/ hydraulic reservoir

the tranny is a kind of electric/ powershift setup.... a range tranny similar to a JD powerquad but shifts electronic

got that idea from a neighbor years ago , they ran mostly older IH.....66 series and also some 88 series

Cenex used to sell a winter weight hydraulic fluid , but I havent seen it for quite a few years now

I will l throw this out for you Sam. Build yourself a couple Hyd. jumper hoses that will make a completed circuit on your hyds. Then put your valves in the float position. When you start the tractor there will be no pressure on the hoses and the oil will circulate and you will heat the oil. Then once you get everything warm you can unplug the jumpers and hook your other hoses in. I have had to do that on some applications because as you said the oil has no where to go and never gets warm.

been adding the gas for many years now............tranny or hydraulic pump never been touched

about 7500 hrs on the tractor now


I figure the lack of flow when you first startup has to be harder on things than thinning down the fluid

When I trucked to Alaska at some times they had to put gas in the diesel to keep it from gelling. I can't remember the ratio. Luckily I never had to do that.

Sam, just be damn glad you never had to run a propane powered JD in the winter. Our old JD 4020 propane model wouldn’t even crank if it was below 30. Always had to pull that pos off with one of our Diesel models before we could feed our cows round bails with it. 🤠

SD, you would think but I guess they are worried about too thin when it's hot out?






Blu, we have a couple jumper hoses but it won't even run one of those. It is really touchy.





Sask, I've always wondered if that would work. It bet it would really screw with the new diesels and their stupid computers!




C, haven't had the 'pleasure'!

tractor leaks enough that I have to add fluid by spring so , it gets thickened up again when the weather starts to warm up

my neighbors theory was the gas and alcohol would tend to evaporate with the warming weather in spring , but I sure cant say thats what happens ,

but I am fixing to dump in some gasohol in a couple of weeks or so

old truckers trick when you didnt have any #1 diesel or a proper antigel to use

know fellas that will still do that when the weather gets ruff............

Subaru should start making tractors.


They’d be FABULOUS! Lol.

That’s just WRONG 🤠

That's the problem with all of that new fangled electronic stuff.

It can't take the cold without doing a lot of babying.

Those 1066s are serious workhorses for the money...

You can spend a lot of money keeping a 1066 running as well. I bought one in 1972.

The 2002 and older 10 series and set green paint is what one wants . Wear um.out rebuild them. My person favorites 4440 and 4455 6410 and 7410

You would do that now. Just bought one last Friday. Been needing a bigger tractor with FWD and all that fancy stuff that they're putting on them these days. Wasn't too concerned about the color of it, but am kind of partial to blue, which is what I bought. It's still at the dealer getting a thing or two worked on. NH TS 115A.

Too bad you got a lemon..don't know what is wrong with JD as they always built quality stuff...my dad has a 7330 it has always got issues...I refuse to use it...I don't want to fix it...no doubt the electronics must be cheaper than a good old steel link or cable to shift it or run the pump...
I guess that's why the old tractors are worth so much...my newest tractor is a 91 4055.. My planting tractor is a 1982 4640..
Yea there are things that break but gosh there isn't much a guy can't fix himself and lots of parts available...

Still cheaper than the newer ones.. The farm I work for part-time uses mostly IH 71-series (7110 x3, 7120, and a 7250 + the 1066) besides a couple of New Hollands (8870, 8970). But those IH models now have a TON of hours on 'em, but Tom sez it's cheaper/easier to repair those than to get newer models; besides they're very user-friendly for newer hires to operate..

I remember they had to replace the wiring harness on the 8970 and it was over $1200 JUST for the harness...

Big farming = big expenses... Just glad it's not me..

I have a Oliver 1850 diesel. I put it to bed in October and wake it up around April. If you really need it, it's for sale but I'm not taking that John Deere in trade.

kwg

Price reduced.

Bring a trailer....


JD figured out that last year when we had it in to replace the couplers that they only replaced a few o-rings(WTF?). We didn't get a work order as the dealer paid for part of the bill(long story) so we didn't know exactly what was done.

Needless to say we figured out that JD came out with new and improved couplers and they drove down this morning to replace them and check the pressure with their computer.

They also performed an update on the computer system and now the fuucking tractor is 100% inoperable. Kid that did the work is stumped. 4 different error codes.


I was afraid to drag the POS away from the processor(which we are using every morning and afternoon) so we did a quick swing-a-roo and hooked it up to the 7510.

Damn the Bad Luck,how cold is it there? Should of bought a Red Tractor!

Looks like a nice tractor,.....but it's out of my price range. Besides,...I have to have a tractor that can be overhauled with a pair of Vise Grips and a coat hanger. I ain't no mechanical engineer.

SJ, we should have waited and found another 10 series!
(or a Red tractor......)



I REALLY wish we could have found low houred 7410.....




The good part of the whole mess is that the weather is great, got up to 40F this afternoon. Nice and sunny once the fog burned off.

If it was -10F I'd really be crying!





Bristoe, it has a really nice cab.....

Hate to hear that.

SOB's have way too much computerized stuff now.

My new tractor had an issue shortly after I got it. They were convinced it was a computer issue. New injectors have to have a computer code before they work now.... They replaced the computer and all the injectors. Still had a bad miss.

After 2 months the service manager got tired of listening to the factory misdiagnose the issue and took the head off... Voila! a $70 rocker arm assy was at fault. Runs like a champ.

T'wern't computer related at all.....

They were chasing gremlins for 2 months.

I went hi-tech on my 8N lately,......bought a pair of stabilizer arms to keep my disc from swingin' here and there, back and forth. The downside is,...the disc now steers the tractor instead of the other way around.

It's okay, though. You just have to allow for it.

https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/Ford-8N_Stabilizer-Arm-Red_230042R.html

Man, I have a very strong dislike for things that are impossible to figure out(mechanically).

Computers are like an invisible problem.


Glad to hear you got yours resolved.



So if you remember we had all the emissions chit removed from the 6.7 a couple weeks ago. Runs GREAT.....

Except the governor/computer 'reset' itself to 75mph.


Found that little detail out when I went to pass someone going down the highway.....

Thank God there was no oncoming traffic!



Diesel guy was like, yeah, never had that happen before.


WTF computer.



It's now set on 150mph......

They even have a warranty.

I don't know why an 8N stabilizer bar needs a warranty. Seems to me if you can fug one up,..it's on *you*.

A flat stick of cold rolled steel with a hole drilled in each end shouldn't need a damn warranty.

New schidt is great when it works.


I know a lot of small scale people who run stuff from the 70's and older.
Heck, any decent tractor from the '50s is more reliable if well maintained.

Dillon, this thing is 12 years old. About 4-5 years too new.

It replaced an IH 656 that is now 51 years old.


We got our moneys worth out of that 656. Still have it.

We have a 1954 Super M that will start every day in the winter. It has pulled me out of the snow and mud twice in the last 3 years. I hook up the battery, drop the seat and pull the started handle. Varoom. My son wants to take it to his place. I'm not sure I like that idea.

kwg

My old redbelly fired up today after being subjected to a couple days of temps in the low teens. I've become fairly satisfied with the old antique tractor. One never knows what they're going to get when they buy a 66 year old machine. But somebody must have done a good restoration of this one.

The guy I bought it from had a hard time coming to terms with the fact that I was going to actually work it.

The way I see it,....I didn't have $20K to spend on a slick little new John Deere or Kubota,......but I could scratch up $4K for a restored 1952 8N.

So far it's proven to be a good decision.

How much ??

Oh never mind, Bristoe is on the trail first.

Bristoe is talking new JD garden tractors.......




The POS in question is supposed to a 'farm' tractor.


Like an 8N.


Or a Super M.

I can show you a stack of twisted and bent stabilizer bars which explains the need for a warranty. I prefer the adjustable, tubular, turnbuckle style. They don't bend.

Hell, I have even broken a couple of lower lift arms, a leveling lift rod, and an outer hydraulic rockshaft lift arm.

Yeah,....I'm talking about "play" tractors.

I don't know what to tell you about "work" tractors. Nobody I've ever known can afford a work tractor.

Compact utility......


Sorry about the garden tractor comment.....grin

and to think I was looking at 6420 s before I got my New Holland..........

Lil Sweets(my nickname for the tractor) is back in business.....


As soon as it cools off again I'll have my fingers crossed that the new couplers work.

Mechanic said it was a chitshow with their software and informed us that we would NOT be billed for the extra time involved. Which of course is only fair.

She won't stay that clean for long Sam!

No doubt Richard!

I was nice and blew all the dust off before the JD man showed up.

Just ordered a set of coupler plugs.

This is what a Midwest worikin' tractor looks like Sam.

Hope that does the trick, Sam!

Do the new couplers go through the computer system as well?


Worked on hydraulics today too. Ran a hose from a remote and split it and plumbed it in to each wing hydraulic cylinder, making them a two way cylinder as opposed to the one way they came from the factory.

Now those wings have power up, and power down.

Richard, looks like you got her all cleaned up to pull a float in the parade!

(what a mess, get it cleaned out before it freezes!)




Barry, the flow rate(speed) is set from a computer(which is really handy for the discharge augers on a mixer wagon) and the valves are controlled electronically(which is not so handy when it's -20F).

Supposedly the new couplers will help with the cold weather valve issue which I find hard to believe.




Sounds like a nice improvement on the wings. We have a few old toolbars and you have to watch the wings on those.

Good luck with it Sam.

That was from last March.

The wings on that particular shredder were sticking in the up position, and I had to get down and tug hard on them to get them go down.

Yeah, you gotta watch out when they start coming down.

Now I just sit in the cab and lower them, throw the lever to float and go...

What a damn run around hope you've got it licked now Sam. Little sweets.. wtf you've got more patience than me man. it'd be little _____er at best. lol
Happiness is a clean spot with a bunch of new parts installed

Richard, looked like about $500 worth of that Iowa mud.



Barry, when the wings hangup just find a side hill!





Salty, the nickname was stolen from those diet Dr. Pepper commercials.

We have another tractor and it's called Lil Smokie.

We have it soft even compared to 20 years ago, much less our father's day.
These machines, even old machines are so much easier to use, and warmer, or cooler as well.

For sure Richard, for sure.




Warm clothes and boots, pickups and SUV's, tractors, SxS and ATV, cell phones, gps, 20v cordless, fancy beer and food, internet, etc.., we really are spoiled.


Spoiled almost to a fault.

Start a cattle thread Sam.

Cats Richard?
(this afternoon)

Err, CATTLE Sam. farm cats are cool if the are smart enough to hunt for rats, and mice.

There is one cat here that hangs out by the feed bunks, us menfolk like her.

Richard, those two have a WILD mother.


But they have tamed down to the point where they follow you around like a dog.



Orange Crush and Tiger.

I figure, there are democrat cats, and republican cats. One kind sit by the door and wait to be fed.

My neighbor had the same problem with one wing on his JD HX20. Reason was that he had bent the pto shaft hanging the wing down over a pond dam so it was binding up.