Home
You try to fix the problem yourself or do you call the plumber?

Hard to imagine how that could happen.
Knew a guy that contracted his own build, did lots of the work himself.........
house had two water heaters............. not unusual... BUT

One water heater did nothing but produce hot water for ONE toilet..............

A plumber he were'nt.....
I’ve seen people set up a system that bleeds a small amount of hot water into the line that fills the toilet tank to keep it up to room temperature or thereabouts. The idea is to prevent condensation on the outside of the tank.
shower mixing valve fail?
Originally Posted by cra1948
I’ve seen people set up a system that bleeds a small amount of hot water into the line that fills the toilet tank to keep it up to room temperature or thereabouts. The idea is to prevent condensation on the outside of the tank.

Mine's set up that way.

When you sit on the throne and it feels like a jacuzzi, water's getting by your flapper.
Originally Posted by cra1948
I’ve seen people set up a system that bleeds a small amount of hot water into the line that fills the toilet tank to keep it up to room temperature or thereabouts. The idea is to prevent condensation on the outside of the tank.
Humidity that high is a non-issue here. This morning it's 67%. In the summer it's usually below 20%. The water comes out of our well at about 58F year round. That's not too far below room temp.
Originally Posted by cra1948
I’ve seen people set up a system that bleeds a small amount of hot water into the line that fills the toilet tank to keep it up to room temperature or thereabouts. The idea is to prevent condensation on the outside of the tank.


They do that sometimes on Cape Cod. They run a hot water line to the toilet because it's so humid in the Summer time that the toilet tank constantly sweats and rots the subfloor. If you run hot water to it,this won't happen.

If you're getting hot water in your toilet and it's not supposed to be there, I'd call a plumber.
Maybe a likely scenario is that either the toilet flapper is not functioning properly or you have a bad fill valve. Of course if you use the 3 sea shells properly this would not happen maybe.

One of 2 things is happening...

1). You or someone else reversed the lines (cold and hot run to the sink next to the toilet or shower... you tapped the wrong one).


2). OR if you are flushing “WHILE” a sink or shower is running the anti-scold mechanism in it is allowing the pressure from the lines to mix (hot goes into cold and then feeds back to the toilet.
IF you only get hot water in the toilet while a sink or shower is running then it’s #2.


I had a tenant “replumb” his bathroom in the basement... he was OK with the hot and cold tap’s reversing themselves but not so much the “ball sauna” that happened after a kid took a bath and he proceeded to use the toilet...

I.e. - when a toilet flushes that tube on the top of the filler value puts fresh water into the bowl to refill the trap and bottom of the toilet - that’s how the hot water ends up in the toilet vs. going through the tank and cooling...

Hehehehe.... that was a fun phone call... Hey can you help me out.....
Doubles as a slow cooker.
Yes, I would fix it myself.

Home plumbing and electrical are pretty simple disciplines, as far as repair goes.

Initial installation and meeting all of the constantly changing codes is a different matter.

But as long as the installation was proper to begin with, troubleshooting and repair is pretty simple for anyone with an IQ above ambient temperature. Just remember, water and electricity follow the path of least resistance. And remember to turn off either at the source before getting into the conduit, because you do not want either of them leaking out where they do not belong.
Originally Posted by GeoW
Doubles as a slow cooker.


Sous-vide
Originally Posted by mtnsnake
You try to fix the problem yourself or do you call the plumber?


One of the mixers are messed up. Cold and hot water are mixed to produce desired temp water.

Prob the shower/sink near the toilet.
Have you recently installed a hose on a 2- handled/valved faucet and left the valves on the faucet open/on and only using the valve on your hose for control? That is the number one condition we use to see when I was involved with commercial plumbing company. All faucets on modern fixtures have check valves internal to the valve to prevent this but some of the older faucets you may find on a service sink that may be in a garage or basement may have an older faucet that does not have this protection. When you put a hose on it and leave the valves open, only using the spray valve for control you have basically connected you hot and cold water lines together.

Place I worked at had a dedicated tooling checking and storage building about 75 - 100 yds from the main factory with a asphalt paved road to it for all season access. It was maned 24/7 so it had a small lavatory with just a sink, commode and a small water heater, a refrigerated water fountain and the whole building was heat via steam. The plumbing for both the cold water feed line and steam ran under the asphalt from the main building. Apparently the heat build up from the sun on the asphalt over that distance and/or the steam and water line were buried too close together caused the cold water feed to get really hot in the lavatory. So hot that you would shortly be sweating streams just from the heat put off from the water in the toilet. You learned real quick not to flush while still sitting on the commode, too.



.
So. Idaho has quite a few hot springs and a bunch have been developed into commercial swimming pools. Some I've been to have used the hot water for toilets and restroom heating. It can get pretty steamy.
We were the first tenants in a new town house decades ago. Yup, the idiots not only reversed the H/C lines but left a pinhole in one line under the sink. First flush and I got "steam cleaned" then the next morning the galley kitchen was at high tide. We moved out the day after we moved in.

They also spray painted the louvered closet doors leaning them up against the bedroom wall. Louver lines and overspray on the walls. Shoddiest construction work I'd ever seen.
Tempering valve failure, most of our toilets up here have them to prevent condensation on the toilet have replaced several.
Bad toilet flapper. Replaced works fine now. Thanks.
It would reduce the 'ball dip surprise' in the summer, though.
The hot water system has a surge tank in the line. Need to add a reverse flow check valve.
Try a little less hot sauce in your chili?
Originally Posted by mtnsnake
You try to fix the problem yourself or do you call the plumber?

Plumber can't fix that!
Call an exorcism!
Originally Posted by cra1948
I’ve seen people set up a system that bleeds a small amount of hot water into the line that fills the toilet tank to keep it up to room temperature or thereabouts. The idea is to prevent condensation on the outside of the tank.


All mine are. Buy the mixers at any hardware or plumbing store. Water here comes out of the ground at 35 to 40 degrees. Not good in a 70 degree house.

Additionally, all cold and hot water pipes are wrapped in insulating tubes, one for condensation, one for heat loss. Ditto the pressure tank.

Really need to blanket the home hot water heater sometime - the rental is on-demand...but those major lines are also tube-insulated. In the rental, the pressure tank and Renai on-demand heater are in a very small, confined area and tried to develop moldfrom condensation before I insulated tank and lines.. I also added a $12 soundless fan for air circulation. Problem solved.
I don't know about the rest of you. I prefer to let it soak in warmer water while I'm standing there taking a leak.
So you are the one leaving that drag mark and yellow stains in the snow up here?
Originally Posted by cra1948
I’ve seen people set up a system that bleeds a small amount of hot water into the line that fills the toilet tank to keep it up to room temperature or thereabouts. The idea is to prevent condensation on the outside of the tank.

Interesting.
Got a whole ‘nuther scenario for you. We live in a slab house built in the late 50’s. After living here nearly 10 years, a couple of years ago we started noticing an area in the middle of the kitchen floor was getting and staying awfully warm- hot actually. Then we noticed when we would first turn on the cold water in the kitchen sink, it would come out pretty darn hot at first, then become cool like it normally was. Hot water worked same as ever.

My wife, who has a lot of sinus problems, started complaining of getting unusually stuffed up. Around that time we got a notification from the water company that they suspected we had a leak.

Putting two or three together and dividing by five, I deduced that the hot water line, buried under the slab, had at least partially ruptured under the kitchen floor between the water heater and the kitchen sink. This hot water pooled around the cold water line, heating it up, thus it would come out hot at first, then the fresh cold water coming thru that hadn’t had time to get hot yet, would flow thru and come out cool.

We rerouted the lines from the heater to the sink. No leaks, normal temperature floor, normal temperature water out of the spigots, and after a few months of the ground drying, my wife’s allergies were back to normal levels.
Perhaps a copper cold water line is being warmed by heat in the surrounding airspace, such as could occur in an attic. Attic heats up from the sun, cold water copper line in the attic absorbs the heat, passes it on to the first place it empties into.

Edit to add: In your locale, this might not be as likely as it could be in a warmer climate.


Get rid of the sink..................wash yer face in the terlit.

Excecise will do you good.
Originally Posted by VaHunter
Have you recently installed a hose on a 2- handled/valved faucet and left the valves on the faucet open/on and only using the valve on your hose for control? That is the number one condition we use to see when I was involved with commercial plumbing company. All faucets on modern fixtures have check valves internal to the valve to prevent this but some of the older faucets you may find on a service sink that may be in a garage or basement may have an older faucet that does not have this protection. When you put a hose on it and leave the valves open, only using the spray valve for control you have basically connected you hot and cold water lines together.




We have this all the time at work. Both valves on a service sink are left open to a sprayer. Sometimes the kitchen sink. Do you have a sprayer on your kitchen sink. How long has it been doing this?
I was working on a new construction house in kansas city and a plumber had a toilet that kept leaking. he was pulling his hair out trying to figure out why . then he started cussing the rough in plumber. funny as hell . the rough in plumber ran a Hot water line to the toilet and after enough use it was melting the wax ring enough to cause it to leak.
Could be crossing in the shower valve if it’s left on and they are turning water off with the shower head.
I thought maybe that hot water in the toilet helped the turds melt quicker.
Originally Posted by JamesJr
I thought maybe that hot water in the toilet helped the turds melt quicker.



I’m sure it does
If you have hot water in the toilet you prolly have a problem at the manifold. Hot and cold lines are separate.
Did I miss where someone suggested the toilet mixing valve?
Many homes have these in order to prevent condensation on the toilet tank and the rot it causes.
If there’s one in this house, it may be bad or need adjusting

Originally Posted by mtnsnake
Bad toilet flapper. Replaced works fine now. Thanks.
My Son in Law owns a well drilling business. And they have a small pond on the property, 1/4 acre maybe.

For S & G he decided to punch an 8 inch well near the pond. They went to 900 feet, hoping to get artesian flow. The static level came out at minus 18 feet. But it will pump at least forty gallon/minute with zero draw down for days on end.

A year later he and our daughter decided Mom and Dad needed a retirement home where we did not have to care for 20 acres with a dozen cows and horses. So they put in a new 2000 sq foot home beside the pond, and hooked it to that existing well.

Heck we could have run copper lines through the floor or ceiling and heated the whole house. The water came out of the tap at 85 degrees.

A week later I came past the new house, and there was a new well ten feet from the first one, Forty feet deep, and 40-50 degree water.
Originally Posted by aalf

Originally Posted by mtnsnake
Bad toilet flapper. Replaced works fine now. Thanks.




I don't get it. Having spent most of my life in that "field", I'd say probably close to 75% of the toilet flappers in America need changing at the moment. Most folks haven't a clue how much water they're wasting every day.

But how's that making the water warm? Usually it makes it cold.
Simple solution...flush it before the load starts to ferment.
Originally Posted by mtnsnake
You try to fix the problem yourself or do you call the plumber?


I just go into the mechanical room and tweek the adjustment on the turlet mixing valve.
Water is still crossing somewhere, it’s costing you money and wear in your heater. It’s not enough to hear the water in toilet tank since you fixed the flapper, but it’s still crossing. It could be crossing at the water heater.
© 24hourcampfire