Greetings,

Didnt quite know how to title this...but when I fire a shot in my Remington 700 AAC 308 20 inch it sometimes feel like its hanging u in the back.

Doesnt happen with all loads and it seems like Im not getting the bolt to a high enough point to start it moving backwards.

Any idea as to whats happening here? Is it the type of fix that I need to send the barrel and the action if Im sending it out?

Any tips welcomed.

Is the forward guard screw binding on the lower bolt lug?

^^^check that first^^^ Then if you still feel the bind, you might check the trigger overtravel adj screw screwed in too far...IF so equipped.

Could be any number of things. Regarding getting your bolt high enough to start moving backwards that’s normally a primary extraction issue. Send it to Dan40X on this forum and have him fix and time it for you.

It’s not that. Only happens after the rifle fires. And not all the time.



Explain primary extraction to me please.

Here is a video that explains primary extraction. Do you know what letter serial number your action is? RR are definitely the worst.
https://youtu.be/szy4HBg3q80

Yes it’s an RR prefix 700. Yes there’s roughly an 1/8th inch gap when the lugs disengages and can’t get pushed to metal to metal like at the end of the video.

Thanks for diagnosing…now what does it take to fix it?

Have you considered a Mauser?

What would that do? Please excuse my ignorance.

Worldwide, the experts claim 102,000,000 Mausers have been built.This does not count Mauser clones, Springfield '03's, US Model of 1917, Winchester Model 70's, Dakotas, etc etc. Most people would argue it is the most successful rifle design in history. If imitation is the sincerest form of flattery...I would say the '98 Mauser is the gold standard of the world. Simplicity, reliability, strength, durability, yadda yadda.

Thanks flintlocke. Just want to get this one fixed. All of my other bolt actions are Savages. So much easier to diagnose and get shooting good.

Contact Dans40x. He will have you take some measurements on your bolt and then send it to him where he will correct the bolt timing. He is a member here. You will only have to send the bolt.


http://accu-tig.com

As stated above. Contact Dan and supply him the measurements and send off the bolt. It will come back quickly and vastly improved over your current timing. You can even choose a different bolt handle if you want to.

Searching for Dan 40x came up empty. I would like him to do the work. Can you PM me his handle in case I’m doing something wrong.

I have his web address in my post.

As stated above....
Dan Armstrong
P.O.Box 81021
Fairbanks,AK. 99708
907-457-4259
www.accu-tig.com

Here you go. It’s Dans40x

https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/users/26038/dans40x

I sent him an email. Thanks Gents...

I noticed you said it "doesn't happen with all loads".....heavy bolt lift is a sigh of high pressure.

Did you ever hear back from Dan?

RR prefix is another keyboard expert myth, fact.

?

Nonsense... ask any knowledgeable gunsmith who builds custom rifles on Remington actions and they will tell you the RR actions are excellent. Keyboard experts are the worst but sites like this one are why some guns get and undeserved bad reputation....

Interesting, going to tag this in hopes I never need it.

I've got a RR action here. It's so-so straight and not a lot of taper in the threads. The receiver face isn't too bad, considering how Remington did them in that era of their manufacturing.

It has no...as in z-e-r-o primarly extraction. They've been that way (minimal camming, at best) since about 2007. A properly designed after market handle, positioned correctly, will fix that.

Good shootin'. -Al

It’s not nonsense. Just like Al stated the RR actions have zero primary extraction. Yes they are somewhat straight being cut on a CNC now but nothing special.
How many RR actions have you personally measured or have first hand experience with? Just another keyboard expert I assume!

The biggest variable is the length of the bolt body TUBE,second would be the vintage of the bolt handle.

Standard Long Cam handles from '62 to short cam configuration in '06 to present.

IF, one is smarter than the equipment that they are working on, swapping handles w/ an aftermarket handle is not required,since most are as useless as an OEM Remington.

OP's, bolt/handle was re-worked months ago.
If he's capable of re-installing said bolt in the receiver is anyone's....guess.

Dan is absolutely correct. Some of the after market handles are worse than the originals by a country mile. Dan would know!

Good shootin' -Al

The worst aftermarket bolt handle to fit is a D.Holland.
Once the twist is removed,the finger strap will be .030"+ to wide & .090"+ too long for any of the 5 aspects to TIMING.

The absolute worst Custom abortion is any Stiller product.

Unsure if mine is acting like yours or not? I have a Model 700 that had a chamber issue from factory and I had it re-barreled, then extractor broke so I sank a good bit of money into a Sako Style extractor with dual ejectors. (Long story but II feel like I got talked into a mess by the gunsmith I used for the extractor installation). Gun is chambered in 300SAUM and was a tack driver with 180gr Accu-bonds prior to sending it in for the extractor fiasco. Anyway while gunsmith was messing around with gun he said that barrel was not properly torqued from previous smith and chamber needed to be polished, which he claims he did for no charge even though he was skinning me with the extractor install.. Anyways on some ammo, including the handload that shot so well, after all the hassle, it still shot load great but when extracting it seems to slightly hang at the upper end of the bolt lift. Got so much in this rifle now I would really like to get it fixed. If yours is doing same thing and you figure something out, please let me know. I will be following this post closely!

Thanks
HeavyBarrel

+1

So is the bolt sticky to pull back because primary extraction does not start the process of pulling the brass free?

Great video 805. I had to go check my 2 Remingtons. The cam that starts the primary extractions are visible. More so on the G code serial number than on the RR code serial number. The G code is a .243 and the RR is a .223 if that makes a difference but the G code rifle cam is more visible and the primary extraction is slightly more robust.
kwg

[quote[/quote]
I had to go check my 2 Remingtons. The cam that starts the primary extractions are visible. More so on the G code serial number than on the RR code serial number. The G code is a .243 and the RR is a .223 if that makes a difference but the G code rifle cam is more visible and the primary extraction is slightly more robust.
kwg

[/quote]


kwg020-
OEM Rem bolt handles from the introduction of the X mark trigger groups in 2006 to present RR prefix serial numbered receiver bolt handles are of "SHORT CAM" design as I've coined them since introduction.
So,both of your handles are TIMED radially at a minimum of 5/32" out of TIME.

There are 5 aspects to be considered for proper bolt/handle TIMING.

HeavyBarrel,
Clean/lap the chamber cleaner than new & check bolt/handle TIMING w/ the firing pin assy removed.

Tag

In the 7 Rem 700's I own now, bolt timing where the mating surfaces are suppose it meet just doesn't happen. In all my rifles I can eject a fired case once the lugs disengage and without so called "timing" happening. I think the video is a load of "frog schitt".....just saying!

Most older Rem700 actions have “some” degree of primary extraction and most do extract the fired case. Fired brass that’s been reloaded can cause problems also.
That said once you run the bolt on a properly timed bolt it’s much easier and smoother.

Every Rem700 I own now and here on out will be timed by Dan especially for the price he charges and quality of work.

If anyone here decides to send a bolt to Dan I’d encourage them to come back and comment on their experience also.

A couple of years ago I built a .308W match rifle on a stainless M700 LA to shoot the 185gr/200gr Bergers in F-class. When I trued up the action it only needed .001" taken off of the back face of the bolt lugs and .001" off the lug abutments in the action to get 100% clean-up on the surfaces. When completed the gun had an RCH worth of primary extraction, sometimes I had to work the bolt a couple of times to extract a fired case. I took the required measurements and sent the bolt to Dan for him to work his magic. The difference was like between night and day, no issues with extraction and the bolt operated as smooth as heck. I'm very happy with his work.

I had to go check my 2 Remingtons. The cam that starts the primary extractions are visible. More so on the G code serial number than on the RR code serial number. The G code is a .243 and the RR is a .223 if that makes a difference but the G code rifle cam is more visible and the primary extraction is slightly more robust.
kwg

[/quote]


kwg020-
OEM Rem bolt handles from the introduction of the X mark trigger groups in 2006 to present RR prefix serial numbered receiver bolt handles are of "SHORT CAM" design as I've coined them since introduction.
So,both of your handles are TIMED radially at a minimum of 5/32" out of TIME.

There are 5 aspects to be considered for proper bolt/handle TIMING.

HeavyBarrel,
Clean/lap the chamber cleaner than new & check bolt/handle TIMING w/ the firing pin assy removed.[/quote]

Hello Dan
I'm not sure what the definition of "radially" is and how it affects extraction but I understand my bolt handles are infact NOT timed correctly. I can't tell you I have ever had an extraction problem but I tend to shoot mild loads. If that is an indicator.

I understand this is your expertise and you can correct this issue with repositioning and TIG welding the handle in the correct position.

kwg

I had to go check my 2 Remingtons. The cam that starts the primary extractions are visible. More so on the G code serial number than on the RR code serial number. The G code is a .243 and the RR is a .223 if that makes a difference but the G code rifle cam is more visible and the primary extraction is slightly more robust.
kwg

[/quote]


kwg020-
OEM Rem bolt handles from the introduction of the X mark trigger groups in 2006 to present RR prefix serial numbered receiver bolt handles are of "SHORT CAM" design as I've coined them since introduction.
So,both of your handles are TIMED radially at a minimum of 5/32" out of TIME.

There are 5 aspects to be considered for proper bolt/handle TIMING.

HeavyBarrel,
Clean/lap the chamber cleaner than new & check bolt/handle TIMING w/ the firing pin assy removed.[/quote]

Dan. I have 3 Remington bolts coming your way as soon as I can get back to the post office. I left my contact information in the box. Please check for timing and TIG weld the handles in place. 2 are from Model 700's and one is from a mid 1970's XP100.

kwg

Regarding HeavyBarrel’s post, aftermarket extractors play into the “timing” thing. Meaning if the extractor rim contact placement increases the play in the system you’ll lose extraction.

Dan has done a 1/2 dozen Rem 700 bolts for me, all of different vintages, the worst ones being the newer ones. Two of the RR prefixed ones I sent were just like yours--they did not extract *at all.* They all work perfectly now. It's a no brainer to send it to him. Pull the firing pin assembly (prob have to buy the tool to do this), measure the gap with a feeler gauge as per his instructions (not hard), and send it to him USPS.

Your bolt will come back 2 weeks later extracting perfectly.

I have also had gunsmiths do the same work who demanded I send the action along with the bolt. I did this; the result was identical to Dan's work. So now I just use Dan.

Hello 35 West.
I don't have the tool to pull the firing pin assembly and I didn't measure the gap. I assumed he had a jig for this. I guess I need to rethink this. I can maybe run to Brownells tomorrow afternoon if they list the tool in stock.

kwg

If you have a string and a coin you can remove the FP assembly. It’s easy to get the measurements with feeler gauges.

https://youtu.be/VVacK49mjDc

RH f/pin assy removal-
Remove bolt from receiver.
Hold bolt body in left hand w/ handle facing to 9 o'clock.

Place the shank of an 1/8" inch pocket screw driver to aft hook of the striker.

Hold the screw driver w/ index & middle to use thumb to slightly cock f/pin assy while rotating f/pin ccw to jump striker over pin/striker cocking cam surface in aft end of bolt body

repeat above 4 360 degree ccwise revolutions.
5th rotation f/pin assy will be removed from bolt body
(pin assy is captive....no loose flying objects)

F/Pin Installation-
Thread f/pin assy into aft end of bolt body 1 turn.
Reverse the above operation for 4 more 360 degree clock wiserevolutions.
Ensure finger of cocking piece is in detent/radius @ 12o'clock position 180degree from your hand held position.

Done

Time involved to remove & reinstall....15 seconds.

Thanks 805. That makes it simple.

kwg

Thanks Dan.

kwg

Very true. Until you’ve experienced both poorly and properly timed, it’s impossible to know.

Easiest way to get the firing pin assembly out is just hook it in your shoe lace and unscrew

Dan40X
I put 2 bolts (with the firing pins removed) in the mail today. I measured the gap and the numbers are taped to each bolt.

kwg

The G codes are the worst in my experience. I have one when it was new when the bolt handle was opened all the way the handle was hitting the edge of the receiver, just barely. A small flat file with fine teeth to just "break" the sharp edge on the receiver gave it enough clearance though. The edges on the G models are much sharper than my A, B or C prefixes. The cro-moly actions were buffed less and less in each successive era. The RR's are better.

I found the opposite. The gap on the G code was smaller than the gap on the RR. Of course, we are only talking in thousands.

kwg

alpionecrick & kwg020,

FYI-
The bolt handles from 2006(G prefix) to present(RR prefix) serial numbered receivers are identical.
Short "CAM" as I've coined them.

The largest variable is the length of the bolt body "TUBE"in the equation.