Any good ideas on how to get rid of the “read the instructions” warning on Ruger revolvers?

Draw file and a barrel spinner. Or rebarrel from a blank.

I should have stated it better….. on a GP100…..

It’s on the bottom correct? If so and it’s SS it shouldn’t be a big trick to draw file it off and sand the file marks out while keeping the same contour. Finish it up with a medium Scotchbrite pad to match the factory finish.

2hr job

I used the above method on my 45 Colt Bisley a number of years ago. I also did the same to get rid of the scribble on the cylinder. I made up a little jig so I could spin the cylinder via drill.

I thought of making a guide out of some old brass. Use a Drexel to cut a groove then use it to guide a small grinding stone…..

I would still draw file it and finish up by using a piece of stiff leather to back my sandpaper. All the while being very careful to keep the original contour and not put a flat or facet on the side.

99.5% chance anything you do with a Dremel will turn into a train wreck.

Why

Because…… it’s there…..

Absolutely on the train wreck!

Good grief!…..And I thought I was OCD!😁

Leftybolt

For various customers, I have removed a lot of roll marked "made in Italy" and cartridge inscriptions/designations by peening the displaced metal back into the groove, filing, smoothing with emery. Very time consuming, but much better than just removing metal. The key is the judicious use of a light hammer like a gravers hammer and a selection of punches ground to a slight convex and mirror polished. You gently "push'' the displaced metal from the roll marking back into the divot from whence it came. Draw filing must be done with sharp files, well and frequently chalked. For final emery work, it is hard to beat the quality of the fingernail emery boards found at beauty supply stores...very good quality. Blending blueing or browning is the hard part to approximate the original finish. Several pre war gunsmith how to books describe this method in detail.

Yes, I’m very OCD!!!!
Thanks for the information flintlocke!
The Ruger lettering doesn’t look very deep like older style lettering. It appears to be either laser cut.
I had actually thought of doing that, or stippling. That’s why I’ve asked for old barrels to test / practice on.

You could slab side the barrel like David Clements did on my 10mm GP100

I'm with ya, John_Boy, I hate it.

That’s at least two of us skeen!!!

I like pacecars solution!!!

Sounds like your method is the method I’d like best. But I’ve never worried about factory lettering.
I bought a 700 Classic 300 H&H. I was pleased with the purchase until I removed the action. Someone deeply engraved, in true Bubba style, his Minnesota Hunter ID number which seemed quite long to me. If it could have been repaired economically I’d have kept it. But I returned the rifle and was giving the previous owner the feeling that this matter was an urgent matter on my part.
If you do the repair as you describe with SS guns I’d feel very pleased.

Keep in mind fellas, peening will not work with lettering that has been inscribed by actually removing metal, engraving. Peening only works with metal that is roll marked or stamped where the steel is displaced, just run your fingertip over the lettering, it's easy to feel the raised edges. Some figures are problematic ...numeral 8, upper case E and H, start with the easier figures until you get the hang of it.

Have heard of some folks welding and refinishing.

I won't buy a Ruger w billboard warning label.
On the SA stuff they made it smaller and underside and IMHO thats tolerable.