What particular reason are you using raw linseed oil? Sloooooow drying (if it ever really dries). At Springfield Armory they used either linseed oil or tung oil (interchangeably, based on which the procurement officer could get the best deal on), by dipping the stocks in hot vats of it.
My advice: snag some artists-grade linseed oil, and finish with that.
I confess that I'm ignorant about woodworking and have been getting my limited information from the other folks at the CMP forums. Typically, folks there use boiled linseed oil, raw linseed oil or tung oil.
Based on what folks there said, it seemed that boiled linseed oil was the way to go because of the drying agents therein. However, I was finding that it was never really drying, remaining forever tacky. My technique was to apply a coat, wait 20-30 minutes, and then remove the excess with a dry rag (although there was never a ton of excess).
Unhappy with the perpetually tacky BLO stock, I decided to try raw linseed oil, and I'm finding that it dries quickly, at least to the touch, when hanging outside for a few hours and then inside overnight. Perhaps it's not really dry but it certainly feels dry, unlike the stock with the boiled linseed oil. One stock that has more coats does take longer, so that gets a coat only once every couple of days. But with both stocks being treated with RLO there is a clear evolution from obviously wet to obviously dry, unlike the BLO.
Here is a stock I'm working on now with linseed oil, along with a photo of it stripped and cleaned, pre-oiling. This stock in particular will, I believe, pop more with more shine than I'm getting with linseed oil alone, and I'm probably at 6-8 applications now. The first one or two applications were a mix of linseed oil and mineral spirits to aid in penetration. A 4 digit Garand with dark park will live in it.
So, what can go on top of RLO that will give the stock a good shine?