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This isn't so much a gunsmithing question as it is a woodworking question..I want to get a nice shine on some Garand stocks I'm refinishing. I'm looking for a nice gloss, but not mirror. I'm refinishing with raw linseed oil. What can go on top of that that will give that shine?

We have always used beeswax on gun stocks, followed up by linseed oil.

What particular reason are you using raw linseed oil? Sloooooow drying (if it ever really dries). At Springfield Armory they used either linseed oil or tung oil (interchangeably, based on which the procurement officer could get the best deal on), by dipping the stocks in hot vats of it.

My advice: snag some artists-grade linseed oil, and finish with that.

Begs the question, why put the barrier coat on first to impede the oil's absorption into the wood?

I confess that I'm ignorant about woodworking and have been getting my limited information from the other folks at the CMP forums. Typically, folks there use boiled linseed oil, raw linseed oil or tung oil.

Based on what folks there said, it seemed that boiled linseed oil was the way to go because of the drying agents therein. However, I was finding that it was never really drying, remaining forever tacky. My technique was to apply a coat, wait 20-30 minutes, and then remove the excess with a dry rag (although there was never a ton of excess).

Unhappy with the perpetually tacky BLO stock, I decided to try raw linseed oil, and I'm finding that it dries quickly, at least to the touch, when hanging outside for a few hours and then inside overnight. Perhaps it's not really dry but it certainly feels dry, unlike the stock with the boiled linseed oil. One stock that has more coats does take longer, so that gets a coat only once every couple of days. But with both stocks being treated with RLO there is a clear evolution from obviously wet to obviously dry, unlike the BLO.

Here is a stock I'm working on now with linseed oil, along with a photo of it stripped and cleaned, pre-oiling. This stock in particular will, I believe, pop more with more shine than I'm getting with linseed oil alone, and I'm probably at 6-8 applications now. The first one or two applications were a mix of linseed oil and mineral spirits to aid in penetration. A 4 digit Garand with dark park will live in it.

So, what can go on top of RLO that will give the stock a good shine?

Wouldn't try to put anything on top of raw linseed. For what you are trying to achieve, would suggest a modified oil like Lin-Speed or one of the many tung finishes.

Why is that? What is it about the raw linseed oil that makes it unsuitable? Because it never dries?

If so, will additional applications of RLO do what I need? One stock I have is definitely getting shinier with each application, but I don't know if the shine will increase or if it reaches a plateau of shine (a good name for a speed metal band?)

You can mix beeswax with BOL, requires some heat to get the wax to melt.


That mix would be the last few coats, which I would also wet sand.

Chem-Pak Pro-Custom Oil is what I always used though it has been many years. I would knock the gloss down with rottenstone. Brownell's is where I found it.

https://www.brownells.com/tools-cleaning/gun-tools/stock-finishing/pro-custom-oil-gunstock-finish/

Danish Oil. I like the Walnut colored one. I do all my Mil-Surp referbs with it.
HERE is a little bit about it from a woodworker.

BLO cures fairly quickly.

BLO + Japan Drier cures much faster.

Raw linseed oil could take years to cure, if it ever does.

Raw linseed oil is a horrible choice for gun stocks.

Those are the simple facts about linseed oil.

That is what I have always heard, but I'm finding the opposite to be true.

In any case, what do you use to give a stock shine?

You may have a mislabeled or bad batch, of BLO that doesn't contained enough of the metallic drying agents that makes it cure. Add some Japan Drier or try a different brand.

In any case, you're spinning your wheels until you find a way to cure what you have, or strip it back and start over.

I don't do what you're attempting to do, but with a raw stock either maple or walnut I typically stain, then many coats of Tru Oil or BLO + Japan Drier, and then wax. For shine, which it isn't often that I want shine, I use Renaissance Wax and polish to a gloss with a soft cotton cloth.

Thanks for that insight. I read that Rennaissance doesn't produce shine but it's possible the person in that case didn't rub it a lot...not sure.

I would NOT touch BLO or tung oil straight up on a stock. It's 2024 , no reason to use a 1940 finish.

LinSpeed
Pro Custom
True oil

there are a few more. I use Velvet Oil but it's discontinued.

LinSpeed after stripping off the god awful red ruger 44 carbine stock. buff it with bees wax and a fine scotchbrite to knock it back

Very nice, thank you. I did some research into Tru-Oil but inferred from what I read that it is a product that one uses starting from the raw wood, not a product you use on top of an already finished stock.

If you have wax on the stock already, I see if alcohol can remove as much as possible. May have to sand it back to refinish.

really can't cover wax with a finish, maybe shellac but that is not a stock finish.

At

At present all I have on the two stocks is raw linseed oil. I'm looking for something to add shine, although not mirror like a fancy English shotgun.

I use WATCO danish dark walnut and steel wool. Had great results.

I don't think that's the right product for this case. I have already used RLO and am looking now to add shine. The product you're suggesting doesn't appear to do that.