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I've got various products at home and cannot remember what I've used in the past when cleaning tupperware for a Krylon job. What's best?
Lacquer thinner, brake cleaner, acetone, paint thinner all will remove routine oil and grease. Krylon, however, has little resistance to common gun cleaning solvents. A much better choice is Brownells,Aluma-Hyde II which is resistant plus being much more scratch and wear resistant.

RAN
Seems like I remember using denatured alcohol last time, but not sure which solvent promotes best paint adhesion. And you are right about the AH-II being tough. That's what I have used as my clear topcoat and it holds up great with half a dozen very light coats over Krylon. My daughter's stock from 5 years ago still looks like a new paint job.
Originally Posted by JPro
I've got various products at home and cannot remember what I've used in the past when cleaning tupperware for a Krylon job. What's best?

Are you using the Krylon made for plastic? I haven'y used that for a stock, but have on other plastics. Seems it just needs a clean, oil-free surface.

I'd just use alcohol. It's a fairly nonpolar solvent, dries quickly, and leaves no residue.
Search plastic stock paint prep in the search.

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PVC clear cleaner
Originally Posted by ironbender
Originally Posted by JPro
I've got various products at home and cannot remember what I've used in the past when cleaning tupperware for a Krylon job. What's best?

Are you using the Krylon made for plastic? I haven'y used that for a stock, but have on other plastics. Seems it just needs a clean, oil-free surface.

I'd just use alcohol. It's a fairly nonpolar solvent, dries quickly, and leaves no residue.


I've only used the Fusion variety for plastic and have had good results. This one is going to be purple, for my 8 year old.... grin

And the PVC cleaner makes good sense too.
I lightly scuff the stock with 220 grit wet or dry paper to give a little "tooth" for the paint to stick to. Not sure if this is necessary but it doesn't hurt anything. Use your cleaner again after sanding.

Is the AH-II better than a spray on epoxy clear coat for durability? Looks a lot easier than Epoxy and cheaper too as you usually only get one use out of the epoxy.
I think AH-II is epoxy based.
Quick back ground on myself. I painted high end cars for 7 years. Currently do Gunkote, Cerakote and Duracoat. I use the same supplies I did back in the day when I painted cars. Remember the paint is only as good as the surface its put on. I use Prep sol to remove wax and grease. This done before you touch the stock. After its sanded I used Limco 139 final wash. This removes dust and finger prints. Wear gloves too. Most of these paints aren't very sensitive but I don't take chances. One of the most overlooked items is your air coming in. Oils and water are your biggest issue. Also filters must be far enough away from the source to allow time for the air to cool. At least 20 feet.
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