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Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
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I've got various products at home and cannot remember what I've used in the past when cleaning tupperware for a Krylon job. What's best?
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Campfire Regular
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Campfire Regular
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Lacquer thinner, brake cleaner, acetone, paint thinner all will remove routine oil and grease. Krylon, however, has little resistance to common gun cleaning solvents. A much better choice is Brownells,Aluma-Hyde II which is resistant plus being much more scratch and wear resistant.
RAN
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Joined: Dec 2004
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Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
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Seems like I remember using denatured alcohol last time, but not sure which solvent promotes best paint adhesion. And you are right about the AH-II being tough. That's what I have used as my clear topcoat and it holds up great with half a dozen very light coats over Krylon. My daughter's stock from 5 years ago still looks like a new paint job.
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Campfire Oracle
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Campfire Oracle
Joined: Dec 2003
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I've got various products at home and cannot remember what I've used in the past when cleaning tupperware for a Krylon job. What's best? Are you using the Krylon made for plastic? I haven'y used that for a stock, but have on other plastics. Seems it just needs a clean, oil-free surface. I'd just use alcohol. It's a fairly nonpolar solvent, dries quickly, and leaves no residue.
If you take the time it takes, it takes less time. --Pat Parelli
American by birth; Alaskan by choice. --ironbender
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Joined: Dec 2003
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Campfire Oracle
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Campfire Oracle
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 86,270 Likes: 25 |
Search plastic stock paint prep in the search. Link
If you take the time it takes, it takes less time. --Pat Parelli
American by birth; Alaskan by choice. --ironbender
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Campfire Savant
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Campfire Savant
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Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
Joined: Dec 2004
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I've got various products at home and cannot remember what I've used in the past when cleaning tupperware for a Krylon job. What's best? Are you using the Krylon made for plastic? I haven'y used that for a stock, but have on other plastics. Seems it just needs a clean, oil-free surface. I'd just use alcohol. It's a fairly nonpolar solvent, dries quickly, and leaves no residue. I've only used the Fusion variety for plastic and have had good results. This one is going to be purple, for my 8 year old.... And the PVC cleaner makes good sense too.
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Campfire Tracker
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Campfire Tracker
Joined: Oct 2008
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I lightly scuff the stock with 220 grit wet or dry paper to give a little "tooth" for the paint to stick to. Not sure if this is necessary but it doesn't hurt anything. Use your cleaner again after sanding.
Is the AH-II better than a spray on epoxy clear coat for durability? Looks a lot easier than Epoxy and cheaper too as you usually only get one use out of the epoxy.
"When you disarm the people, you commence to offend them and show that you distrust them either through cowardice or lack of confidence, and both of these opinions generate hatred." Niccolo Machiavelli
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Joined: Dec 2004
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Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
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I think AH-II is epoxy based.
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Campfire Regular
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Campfire Regular
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Quick back ground on myself. I painted high end cars for 7 years. Currently do Gunkote, Cerakote and Duracoat. I use the same supplies I did back in the day when I painted cars. Remember the paint is only as good as the surface its put on. I use Prep sol to remove wax and grease. This done before you touch the stock. After its sanded I used Limco 139 final wash. This removes dust and finger prints. Wear gloves too. Most of these paints aren't very sensitive but I don't take chances. One of the most overlooked items is your air coming in. Oils and water are your biggest issue. Also filters must be far enough away from the source to allow time for the air to cool. At least 20 feet.
NRA LIfe Member, Colt, Sig, Smith & Wesson, Springfield Armorer, NYBIN , NYPD Firearms Examiner, Serial Number Restoration, Cerakote, Gunkote, and Duracoat finishes
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